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From a painting by Albert Operti 

LOST ON THE ICE-CAP 



ISSUED UNDER THE AUSPICES OF 
THE ARCTIC CLUB 



The White World 



LIFE AND ADVENTURES WITHIN 
THE ARCTIC CIRCLE PORTRAYED 
BY FAMOUS LIVING EXPLORERS 



Collected and Arranged for The Arctic Club 
By RUDOLF KERSTING 




NEW YORK 

LEWIS, SCRIBNER & CO. 

1902 



THE LIBRARY OF 
CONGRESS, 

Two Copies Received 

IUN. 4 1902 

Copyright entry 

CLASS ^XXo. No. 

COPY B. 



Copyright, 1902, by 

LEWIS, SCRIBNER & CO. 

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED 



Zfyt £oro Q^afcttnore (preee 

The Friedenwald Company 
baltimore, md., u. s. a. 



TO THE 

MEMBERS OF THE ARCTIC CLUB 

NOW IN THE FIELD 



PREFACE 

There have been many books written on the subject of 
Arctic Exploration, chiefly historical works. But, in many 
respects, we believe " The White World " will be found 
by its readers to be something unique in Polar literature. 
Twenty-two famous living explorers have given their per- 
sonal experiences, and have described what interested 
them most in the Far North, that great region of silence 
and mystery. The articles are, so to speak, human docu- 
ments, in which are embodied all the pathos, all the humor, 
all the tragedy of the expeditions, which, with extra- 
ordinary courage and amidst unparalleled sufferings, have 
attempted to reach the North Pole. It is the universal 
testimony of all who have been there, that the great glitter- 
ing waste of ice and snow possesses a peculiar and inde- 
scribable fascination. In the belief that the same fascina- 
tion may exist for the reader of these experiences, as well 
as the real actor in them, this book has been compiled and 
is confidently offered to the public with a full belief in its 
value and its entertaining qualities. 

Acknowledgment is made to Albert Operti for the use of 
original paintings and drawings, to A. P. Rogers and G. 
W. Picknell for drawings, and to Hon. J. D. Dewell, 
Prof. L. C. Stone, Rev. C. B. Carpenter, C. F. Wyckoff, 
and F. B. Wright for photographs furnished. 



CONTENTS 

PAGE 

AN ARCTIC RESCUE u 

Rear Admiral Winfield Scott Schley, U. S. N. 

AFTER FIFTY YEARS 35 

Amos Bonsall 

FARTHEST NORTH WITH GREELY .... 51 

Major David L. Brainard, U. S. A. 

POLAR HOSPITALS , 79 

Henry Biederbick 

AN ARCTIC BEAR HUNT K 99 

Francis Long 

SUPERSTITIONS OF THE ESKIMO 109 

Middleton Smith 

THE DAILY WORK OF AN ARCTIC EXPLORER . 131 

Dr. Frederick A. Cook 

LOST ON THE ICE-CAP .145 

Hugh J. Lee 

AN ARCTIC HONEYMOON 161 

Florence Leonard Lee 

A TRAGEDY OF THE FAR NORTH 175 

Walter Wellman 

THREE FAREWELLS TO PEARY 189 

Herbert L. Bridgman 

WRECKED ON THE COAST OF GREENLAND . . 199 
Prof. G. Frederick Wright 

LIFE IN THE ARCTIC REGIONS 219 

Prof. William H. Brewer 

PHOTOGRAPHY IN THE FAR NORTH . . . .231 
Rudolf Kerstinc 

A NATURALIST'S ADVENTURES . , . . .241 
Dr. Tarleton H. Bean 



CONTENTS 

PAGE 

THE UNFORTUNATE MIRANDA . . . . .267 
Henry Collins Walsh 

AN ARTIST IN THE FROZEN ZONE . . . .293 
Albert Operti 

ARCTIC FRIENDS AND ENEMIES . . . . .305 
Andrew J. Stone 

THE ICE TRAIL ON THE YUKON . . . . .323 
John B. Burnham 

ESKIMO MUSIC ......... 333 

Dr. Robert Stein 

PERILS OF POLAR WHALING 357 

Capt. Bradley. S. Osbon 

AMERICA'S FIRST POLAR EXPEDITION . . .369 
Albert White Vorse 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



Lost on the Ice-Cap 
The Lookout .... 
Portrait of Rear Admiral Schley 
Rescue of Lieutenant Greelv 

Cape Sabine 

Portrait of Amos Bonsall 
Ice Locked ..... 
Doctor Kane and Party . 
Portrait of Major Brainard, U. S. 

Fort Conger 

Farthest North .... 
Sledging to Lockwood Island 
Portrait of Henry Biederbick 
Eskimo Summer Home . 
The Lady Franklin Bay Expedition 
Portrait of Francis Long 

Sea Lions 

Portrait of Middleton Smith . 
Children of the White World 
Off the Alaskan Coast 
Portrait of Doctor F. A. Cook 

An Eskimo Belle 

Eskimo Posing Before the Camera 
Portrait of Hugh J. Lee . 
Northward Bound 
Eskimo Attendants 
An Ice Arch .... 

Portrait of Florence L. Lee . 
Where the Honeymoon was Spent 
Comforts in the Arctic . 

A Reverie 

Portrait of Walter Wellman 
The Midnight Sun 
Portrait of H. L. Bridgman 
Curiosity 



U. S. N. 



A. 



PAGE 

Frontispiece 

13 
15 
25 
29 

38 
42 

47 

54 

55 

60 

67 

82 

87 

9i 

102 

103 

112 

119 

122 

134 

138 

143 

148 

149 

152 

157 

162 

165 
168 

173 
178 
179 
192 
193 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

Portrait of Professor G. Frederick Wright 

A Reminder of Home 

Camp at Ikamiut .... 

sukkertoppen .... 

A Family Group .... 

Ancient Harbor of Lievely 

Portrait of Professor W. H. Brew: 

Portrait of Rudolf Kersting 

Sea Birds 

Crossing a Crevice 

A Slip 

Getting Breakfast 

Portrait of Dr. Tarleton H. Bean 

Oomiak, or Woman's Boat 

Eskimo Chewing Skins 

Portrait of Henry Collins Walsh 

Juvenile Greenlanders 

The Miranda Ramming the Iceberg 

Eskimo at Play .... 

Abandoning the Miranda 

Portrait of Albert Operti 

Making a Cast Under Difficulties 

First Eskimo Bust 

Highlanders .... 

Portrait of Andrew J. Stone 

In the Frozen North 

On the Ice Trail 

"The Love of Adventure" 

"The Long Line of Men" 

Portrait of Doctor Robert Stein 

Portrait of Captain B. S. Osbon 

"There She Blows" 

Boating Amid Ice Floes . 

Portrait of Albert White Vorse 



PAGE 

, 202 

, 206 

209 

211 

215 

, 218 

222 

■ 2 34 
236 
237 
238 
239 

244 
250 

257 
270 
27I 

279 
285 
289 
296 
299 
30O 

303 
308 
317 
325 
327 

333 
336 
360 

364 
367 
372 



TO 



AN ARCTIC RESCUE 



REAR-ADMIRAL 

WINFIELD SCOTT SCHLEY, U. S. N. 

Winfield Scott Schley, Rear-Admiral U. S. N., 
was born near Frederick, Maryland, 1839; grad- 
uated Annapolis, i860. In 1884 he was put in 
command of the Relief Expedition to find and 
rescue Lieutenant Greely and his party of over 
a score of men, who had been for three years 
in the Polar sea. At Cape Sabine Admiral 
Schley found Greely and six survivors of the 
party. For this rescue he was awarded a gold 
watch and thanks of the legislature of his na- 
tive state, and a gold medal from the Humane 
Society of Massachusetts. 




AN ARCTIC RESCUE 

By Rear Admiral WINFIELD SCOTT SCHLEY, U. S. N. 




FASCINATION of the Arctic regions, that 
great white world, with its dazzling glitter of 
ice and snow, is indescribable and well-nigh in- 
explicable. And yet that this fascination exists 
to an extraordinary degree is indisputable. No 
one who has ever been there, either as an ex- 
plorer or a rescuer, but has longed, with all the 
keen desire of a lover to see his absent sweet- 
heart, to return once more. 
Many have returned, in fact the great majority, and those 
who have been, from force of circumstances, unable to do 
so, have constantly regretted this inability. All hardships, 
all privations, are forgotten. Only the pleasurable incidents 



13 



THE WHITE WORLD 

are remembered. And one longs once again to experience 
the thrill of expectation, the hope for and innate conviction 
of, success, which has beaten high in the heart of every 
Arctic explorer. 

Is it the quest of the hitherto unattainable which possesses 
this potent attraction, this more than ordinary magnetic 
quality? It is possible. We all of us have known in our 
lives the keen longing for that which was just beyond our 
reach. There are few greater truths taught than that which 
is presented to us by the fable of Tantalus. 

If the first Polar explorer had successfully accomplished 
his purpose and discovered the North Pole, would there 
have been any further expeditions? This, in my opinion, 
is more than doubtful. What reason would there be to 
visit it again? There are no commercial, no social possi- 
bilities in that great frozen North, nor, from its climatic 
conditions, can there ever be. 

And this brings us the ever-persistent question, which 
demands an answer in regard to' so many of the endeavors 
and enterprises of humanity — Cui bono? What is the use of 
it all? I have no desire to appear pessimistic, nor would I 
dare, without supreme egotism, to answer the questions I 
am putting. But these thoughts appeal to me strongly, as 
they have to many others. Has all the suffering undergone, 
all the loss of life involved, all the expenditure of money 
made, been worth the while? Would the knowledge of the 
exact position of the North Pole be a boon to humanity? 
What real and vital difference does it make whether Green- 
land is an island or not? 

Even if these questions were answered authoritatively in 
the negative, that would not detract from the splendid aims, 
the marvellous endurance and the glorious heroism which 
have ever been displayed in an eminent degree by Arctic 
explorers. Failures, or comparative failures, seem to have 
little or no effect, but only to stimulate to new efforts. In 
spite of all, the search for the North Pole still goes on, and 
probably will go on indefinitely. Peary, for instance, an 
indefatigable explorer, has made expedition after expedi- 
tion. Among his other achievements are the following: 

First — The rounding of the northern limit of the Green- 



14 




REAR ADMIRAL WINFIELD SCOTT SCHLEY, U. S. N. 



AN ARCTIC RESCUE 

land archipelago, the most northerly known land in the 
world, probably the most northerly land. 

Second — The highest latitude yet obtained in the West- 
ern hemisphere (83 degrees, 50 north). 

Third — The determination of the origin of the so-called 
Paleocrystic ice (floe berg). 

Lieutenant Peary has declared: "I am after the Pole, 
because it is the Pole; because it has a value as a test of 
intelligence, persistence, endurance, determined will, and 
perhaps courage, qualities characteristic of the highest type 
of manhood; because I am confident that it can be reached, 
and because I regard it as a great prize which it is peculiarly 
fit and appropriate that an American should win." 

Mr. Evelyn Baldwin, at the head of undoubtedly the most 
superbly equipped expedition that ever started for the 
North Pole, has said, echoing, in a manner, the words of 
Peary : 

" I do not want to see any but an American win the 
honor of the discovery of the North Pole, when so many 
of our brave countrymen have sacrificed their lives in the 
effort to attain it. I think America is great enough and 
progressive enough to have that distinction." 

These two quotations are made particularly to emphasize 
my previous statement as to the enthusiasm of Arctic ex- 
plorers, an enthusiasm which knows Uo bounds. The mag- 
nificent equipment of the more modern expeditions would 
have seemed little short of miraculous in the days of 
Greely. But science has advanced in all directions with 
gigantic strides in the last decade or two, and has made 
possible what seemed impossible when Greely set out on 
his ill-fated expedition. Then, too, experience, dearly 
bought as it has been, has taught a great deal. What to 
take to the North, and, what is even more important, what 
not to take, has been learned, and utilized. 

And now to revert to the real object of this article, my 
personal experience in the rescue of Greely. 

It is now some eighteen years since I was appointed 
commander of the fleet sent to the Far North to attempt to 
find the survivors of the Lady Franklin Bay Expedition, or 
as it was better known to the general public, the Greely 

17 



THE WHITE WORLD 

Expedition — if, indeed, there were any survivors, which 
at that time was a matter of the gravest doubt. 

And yet, after all this long space of time, when I remem- 
ber those days, and am called upon to put my experience 
into words, the memory of it all sets my pulses throbbing 
again, and my heart swells once more, as it did then, at the 
sense of responsibility imposed upon me and my associates. 
Who, save those daring and valiant spirits that were my 
companions on that memorable expedition, can understand, 
or even faintly appreciate, the hopes and fears, the alternate 
fits of elation and depression (the latter bravely encountered 
and overcome) which it was our lot to meet with? 

To go back to those days, which were of vast import to 
all intimately concerned, no words can depict the excite- 
ment throughout the country at the time, on the subject of 
a new rescue expedition, and the anxiety prevalent as to the 
fate of Greely and his companions. Nevertheless, there 
were many who felt that to attempt a further rescue would 
be a useless expenditure of life and money, and would 
result in the verdict of " a lost cause." 

It will be remembered that the Greely Expedition, to give 
it its popular title, set out for the North in the summer of 
1881. The work of the expedition was to be threefold: 
First, exploration; second, the collection of specimens; and 
third, the observations called for by the International Polar 
Conference, held a short time before. The members of the 
expedition comprised twenty-five persons, including two 
Eskimos with Lieutenant Greely in command. 

The instructions given were that a stay of two years was 
to be made at Lady Franklin Bay, and it was promised that 
a vessel should be sent to the station both in 1882 and 1883. 
These vessels, it was stated, were to bring " supplies for and 
such additions to the present party as are deemed needful." 
If these vessels failed to reach Greely, caches were to be 
established at designated points. Greely's party embarked 
at St. John's on the Proteus in July, and left for Lady 
Franklin Bay. 

This was the beginning of an extremely exciting story, 
full of the most dangerous undertakings, successful achieve- 
ments and unparalleled sufferings. It was destined to 
arouse the most intense interest and sympathy all over the 

18 



AN ARCTIC RESCUE 

world, culminating only in the rescue and bringing back of 
the few survivors. 

In the beginning, the enterprise was wonderfully success- 
ful. The Proteus reached the offing of Lady Franklin Bay 
without a check of any sort, and after disembarking the 
members of the expedition in August, she returned to St. 
John's. This first success, however, led to very false im- 
pressions. It was thought, and perhaps not unnaturally, 
that the station could be reached easily and without danger. 
The element of extraordinary good luck was not taken into 
account, and it was forgotten that previous voyages had 
been accomplished only with great risk and after encounter- 
ing untold difficulties. 

Two expeditions, as had been promised, had been sent 
out for the relief of Greely, one in 1882 and one in 1883. 
But neither, beyond the storing of provisions and clothing, 
had met with any remarkable success. In fact, the latter of 
the two was disastrous; the chief ship, the Proteus, which 
originally carried the exploring party to the North, being 
caught and sunk in an ice floe. The whole country, in 
consequence, was in a ferment, and indeed the interest 
excited throughout the world was phenomenal. Something 
further must be done for Greely and his companions, and 
that without delay. This was the general consensus of 
opinion. 

But, after a careful examination of expert testimony, the 
Secretaries of the Army and Navy decided that it would be 
folly to send out another expedition at that time of year. 
In fact, it would have been worse than folly. It would 
have been disastrous in the extreme, and those engaged in 
the relief would undoubtedly have found themselves in as 
bad straits as Greely. Preparations, however, went for- 
ward with all due despatch to put affairs into operation the 
following spring. 

About the middle of February I was appointed com- 
mander of the expedition. The appointment was made 
thus early, as it was the purpose of the Navy Department 
to connect one man with the enterprise, and to give him 
ample time and opportunity to perfect his plans. There 
was to be no possibility of casting responsibility upon the 
Bureaus, because they forgot this or that detail. It was 

19 



THE WHITE WORLD 

to be one man's business to call for everything that was 
needed, and to see that he got it. 

The Thetis and the Bear were purchased at Dundee 
for the expedition. The English Government had gener- 
ously offered the Alert to the Government of the United 
States, an offer which was gladly and thankfully accepted. 

I remember vividly the extreme care with which the 
officers and men were selected. Every applicant was ex- 
amined by a medical board, under instructions from the 
Surgeon General, prescribing a standard of physique neces- 
sary to withstand the exposures and hardships of the Arc- 
tic. Many were rejected. 

Especial attention was paid to the victualling of the ships, 
this being a matter of the most vital importance. A fre- 
quent change of diet, as had been found from previous 
Arctic experiences/was essential. Tea and chocolate were 
the chief stimulants. It is an odd fact, and one of consider- 
able interest, that in the Arctic regions, the use of coffee 
has injurious effects on many constitutions. Tea seems to 
be the best stimulant. But there are times, particularly 
after severe exposure, when the internal warmth can be 
communicated only by the use of hot spirits. 

The most careful inspection was also given to the cloth- 
ing, which was made at the New York Navy Yard, the 
officers and the men being fitted as they joined. Care had 
been taken to see that on board each vessel, there should 
be at least one officer who had had more or less Arctic 
experience. 

Our equipment was the best that pains or money could 
obtain at that time. But, naturally, it was not comparable 
with that of the later Peary and Wellman expeditions, and 
especially with that of the superb Baldwin-Ziegler Expe- 
dition. These were provided with all sorts of aids and 
facilities which were not dreamed of in our day. 

To return to our own expedition. The fitting out was 
by no means the only thing done to facilitate the objects 
in view. The Navy Department had the most cordial 
support and interest of the Secretary of War, and the two 
Secretaries had many consultations on the various points 
relating to the expedition. It was thought wise to take 
subsidiary measures which might result beneficially. Re- 



AN ARCTIC RESCUE 

quests were made that the owners of sealing and whaling 
vessels should instruct their captains to be on the lookout 
for signs of Greely's party, as there was a bare possibility 
that they might have drifted on an ice-floe to the southward. 
Assurances were given that any service rendered would 
be substantially recognized by the Government. 

Later, Congress went even further than this, and directed 
the Secretary of Navy to offer a reward of $25,000 for the 
rescue of Greely or the discovery of his fate. His fate! 
What was it to be? And what was his present condition, 
and that of his comrades? Of course, all ideas in this 
regard were purely problematical. And yet what eager 
discussions, fraught with the most intense interest, took 
place between myself and my colleagues at the time! 

It must be remembered in this connection that little 
encouragement was to be obtained from either the news- 
papers or the public in general. The failures were too 
fresh in people's minds to permit much hope of the new 
expedition. And yet it was generally realized and ac- 
knowledged that the Government was bound in duty to 
continue in the endeavor to relieve Greely, while at the 
same time it was feared, and these fears were freely ex- 
pressed, that the expedition would be fruitless, and pos- 
sibly, if not probably, would have a fatal termination. 

This prevalent feeling, however, did not have any ma- 
terial effect upon the officers of the expedition. In all our 
discussions we were never willing to admit the possibility 
that a general disaster had taken place, and all had perished. 
We had no apprehension that catastrophe would come to 
the new relief expedition itself, for we knew too well the 
vast precautions which had been taken to prevent such an 
occurrence. But we did not believe that we were to glide 
on to success, without encountering many hardships and 
obstacles. 

Few of us knew much about ice navigation, save what 
we had read of it, but we realized that this was a serious 
undertaking to which everybody concerned must devote his 
best efforts. It is a duty as well as a pleasure to chronicle 
that each person connected with the expedition, whether 
officer or man, felt that the object of this voyage was 
something far and beyond the ordinary; and an earnestness 



THE WHITE WORLD 

of purpose was inspired which could not have been called 
forth by any expedition which had simply exploring for 
its purpose. All were determined to spare no pains, to 
incur any exposure, to assume any required task, and to 
be unremitting in watching for and seizing upon oppor- 
tunities to advance, be it much or little, on the journey 
toward Greely and his party. 

Everything was now in readiness. The Bear set out 
from New York the 24th of April, the Thetis the 1st of 
May, and the Alert the 15th of May. On all sides were 
given hearty expressions of the best wishes. The Secre- 
tary of the Navy voiced the sentiments of the whole coun- 
try when he telegraphed: 

" I wish you and all your comrades good health, good 
courage, and good luck. Goodbye." 

At last the expedition was started in earnest. 

Shall we be too late or shall we be in time? This was 
the burning question of the hour, a question which only 
Divine Providence could answer. 

It is unnecessary here to describe in detail our journey 
to the North. But there are some statements and incidents 
that may prove interesting. 

As has been said, there were but few of us who knew 
much about Arctic navigation. But we had been warned 
against placing too much reliance on the subject of experi- 
ence, as applied to Arctic affairs. It is a fact that, in the 
whole history of Arctic expeditions, renewed voyages under 
the same commander have led to failures rather than to suc- 
cesses. This was notably the case in the many expeditions 
of Franklin, Parry, Barentz, Hudson, Hall, Kane, McClure, 
and Back. Their failure to attain their aims was probably 
due in some measure to a too rigid following of what they 
had learned from experience, and had therefore laid down 
as rules. I am quite well aware that this is a refutation 
of the old and generally true maxim, " Experientia docet," 
but I am also convinced that what I have stated is correct, 
so far as voyages in the Polar regions are concerned. 

Another thing may be more or less surprising. In many 
instances, we found our charts to be of little or no help. In 
fact, on more than one occasion, our ships steamed over 
places which on the chart were marked as land. 



AN ARCTIC RESCUE 

The greatest care was taken of the provisions. A supply 
for sixty days, consisting of pemmican, beef, pork, tea, 
sugar, hard biscuit, salt and pepper, as well as alcohol, 
stoves, pots, pans, and two boxes of ammunition for the 
fowling pieces and rifles, all carefully marked, were 
stowed on deck beside the boats for which they were in- 
tended. All this was regularly inspected every day to be 
sure, that, if needed, nothing should be found to be spoiled. 
In this connection, it should be said that it was recognized 
from the beginning that, if Lieutenant Greely and his party 
were ever found, they would probably be in a destitute con- 
dition. Therefore, rations were carefully preserved ex- 
clusively for them. 

The " crow's nest," just as soon as we entered the regions 
of ice, proved to be of inestimable assistance, and it was put 
into frequent use. The crow's nest is a heavy barrel, with 
the bottom fitted with a heavy hinge. This is attached to 
the foremast or mainmast by stout iron bands, fitted tightly 
about the mast, and is big enough to hold a man standing 
upright. There is a seat in it, but, when in the ice pack, 
there is little or no chance to sit down. Encircling the top 
is an iron rod, which makes a rest for the telescope. At an 
elevation of 120 or 130 feet, it gives a very broad lookout, 
say a range of twelve or fifteen miles in clear weather. An 
immense deal can be seen from here which could not be 
seen from the deck, and the captain, to direct intelligently 
the movements of his ship, is forced to remain here the 
greater part of his time. An elaborate system of signals 
connecting both with engine room and with helmsman is 
arranged, which makes it as easy to direct the ship from 
the crow's nest as from the bridge. 

Wind and tide are naturally the two things which are 
watched most closely. For, upon an accurate knowledge 
of these, depends the ability to seize opportunities to 
advance. 

There are certain indications which are of the utmost im- 
portance, namely, " water blinks " and " ice blinks." The 
water blink is dark clouds or spots on the horizon. These 
are caused by the mists which gather over open spaces of 
water, and always mean that an advance can be made. 
They are, therefore, eagerly looked for. On the contrary, 

23 



THE WHITE WORLD 

the ice blink is distinguished by spans or bands of light 
just above the horizon. These are the result of the reflec- 
tion of an ice pack, and forebode much trouble ahead. The 
crow's nest is certainly a wonderful help and instructor to 
any commander of an Arctic expedition. 

Torpedoes, to blow up the ice, were on the whole found 
rather disappointing. Their action was chiefly local, and 
no absolute reliance could be placed upon them. We car- 
ried explosives both of gunpowder and of gun-cotton. 
The former was found to be by far the more efficacious. 
On one occasion, however, it must be said that torpedoes 
proved to be of great service. This was when the Thetis 
was off Cape Athol, attempting to gain the open water of 
Wolstenholme Sound. In ramming her way through the 
ice, she found herself stuck fast in a wedge. She could 
move neither forward nor backward. The pressure of the 
ice was not severe, but it simply would not yield. Torpe- 
does of both gunpowder and gun-cotton were placed ahead 
and on both sides of the ship, about ten or twelve yards 
away. The explosion broke up the jam and permitted the 
ship to continue on her way through the ice pack. 

Our dogs were of great advantage to us, indeed indis- 
pensable. We had taken eighteen Labrador dogs on board 
at St. John's. In addition to these, at Godhavn we pur- 
chased from the governor a team of seven trained Eskimo 
dogs. The Labrador dog is as a rule much more satis- 
factory and tractable than the Greenland one. He is a 
water dog and can swim, while the other must be carried 
from floe to floe. All the dogs have enormous appetites, 
but the Eskimo refuses to work after eating, while the Lab- 
rador dog is ready to buckle to at any time. They are all 
extremely savage, being more like wolves than dogs. If a 
man slips and falls upon the ice, they will leap upon him 
at once. 

Among the Eskimo dogs, there is always a king; that is 
the one who, after repeated fights, has proved the strongest; 
and when his kingship is once established, all the pack 
yield to him and give him the most abject obedience. A 
growl is his signal, and woe to him who does not at once 
respond to it. 

We had one peculiar specimen of a dog that we obtained 

24 



AN ARCTIC RESCUE 

at Saunders Island. He was a very handsome animal, but 
of an unusually surly disposition. He would have nothing 
to do with the other dogs, and would not eat the same food 
that was given to them. Any kindly attention shown him 
was resented, but he never dared to bite. A dog that 
would not eat or fight was an anomaly. He seemed to be 
in a torpid condition. The only time that he aroused him- 
self proved fatal to him. In attempting to walk on the 
main rail, he fell overboard, and was drowned. 

Some mention should certainly be made of the whalers, 
who joined us in the early part of our quest. There was 
a large number of them in the beginning, but none remained 
to the end. Both officers and men were fine fellows, of 
superb physique and of bright, cheery, and genial natures. 
Their broad Scotch accent also had its attraction. They 
were generous in their rivalry, and always ready to lend a 
helping hand. They were not as well equipped as the re- 
lief ships, and their one advantage was their experience, if 
indeed this was an advantage. As I have previously stated, 
it is a debatable question whether the importance of expe- 
rience on such an expedition as we were engaged upon 
may not be greatly overestimated. 

The life of these whalers is an interesting one. They 
begin their annual cruise in January or February. The 
sealing captain takes the place of the whaling captain, who 
remains on board, but, so to speak, as a passenger. A 
tremendous number oi seals is captured, the vessels being 
loaded down with them. After the middle of April, when 
the taking of young seals is forbidden by law, the ships 
return to St. John's, discharge the sealing captain, and pre- 
pare for the whaling cruise. It is their code of honor that 
the stronger must help the weaker, and this has never been 
known to be violated. Any captain who would abandon 
another in the ice would probably be discharged, and cer- 
tainly would receive the execrations of his countrymen. 
A story is told that one captain who abandoned his con- 
sort to her fate drowned himself, when in sight of the home 
port, rather than meet the stormy reception which he knew 
was in store for him. 

While the whalers were with us, we were initiated into 
the mysteries of a " Mollie." When the whalers are com- 

27 



THE WHITE WORLD 

pelled to remain motionless for some days in the ice, it is 
the custom for the captains to gather together on board one 
or another of the ships, and hold a sort of symposium, dis- 
cussing the prospects of the season's catch. These assem- 
blages are known as " Mollies." A bucket is hoisted at the 
fore-royal masthead as a signal of what is to take place. 
The meetings are most decidedly of a convivial nature, and, 
during the conversation, large quantities of Scotch whiskey 
and beer are consumed. 

Once or twice the whalers, notably the Arctic and the 
Wolf, through clever manoeuvring and fortunate circum- 
stances, got to the front, and this was more or less annoy- 
ing to the crews of the relief ships. For we were resolved 
that the whalers must not come in first. Finally, however, 
feeling that there was too much at stake in the summer's 
catch of fish to follow what was at best only problematical, 
the whalers turned back to the southward. 

They bade us a cordial farewell, and most heartily wished 
us Godspeed. I shall never forget the warm grasp of Cap- 
tain Fairweather's hand, as he said in his mellow Scotch 
accents: 

" Gude bye, Captain. We may live without fesh, but 
those poor fellows up there must have breed. God bless 
you! It's no use for us to go further." 

The Thetis and the Bear continued on their way. We 
encountered many surprises, succeeding in pushing onward 
when we expected failure, and being checked where we had 
been confident of advancing. In many cases, we were 
forced to come to a standstill, for it would have been sui- 
cidal to attempt to go on. On more occasions than one 
we received assistance from the Eskimos, whom we found 
to be always obliging and ready to furnish us with any 
information in their power. Further and further we pushed 
on slowly northward. We found caches here and there, 
and cairns were easily discoverable. 

At Saunders Island there were perhaps fifty Eskimos who 
came off in their sleds to the ship, but they could furnish us 
with no information as to the party we were in search of. 
We gave them pork and bread, as well as broken oars and 
odd pieces of wood with which to mend their kayaks. The 
latter they seemed to crave especially, together with nails 

28 



AN ARCTIC RESCUE 

and bits of metal. Still, nothing in the way of food came 
amiss to them. They would devour anything that was in 
any sense of the word edible, no matter whether it was 
cooked or raw. 




From a painting by Albert Operti 



CAPE. SABINE 



Onward we went to Cape Parry, Northumberland, Cape 
Alexander, McGary Island, and Littleton Island. We had 
many encounters with the ice, but no mishap of any im- 
portance overtook us. Off Cape York, the Bear had 
parted her consort, and, therefore, on board the Thetis, we 
had now two sources of anxiety. 

It was very apparent that Greely had not reached Little- 
ton Island. It was possible that he had remained at Lady- 
Franklin Bay, but it was probable that he had gone to the 
south. This naturally we could determine in no manner. 
The other cause of anxiety was soon removed, for the Bear, 
to our great delight, came steaming up and joined us just 
before we had decided to leave Littleton Island. 

It was now determined to run over to Cape Sabine, ex- 
amine the cairns there, establish a cache of four thousand 
rations, and then immediately push on still further to the 
north. We left a final record for Captain Coffin of the 

29 



THE WHITE WORLD 

Alert on McGary Island, and proceeded to- Payer Island. 
Our passage was, fortunately, comparatively clear of ice, 
and we had little or no difficulty in making our way. Payer 
Harbor is an indentation on the coast, which is in part 
enclosed by Brevoort, Stallknecht, and Payer Islands. 
Brevoort Island is the largest of these, about two miles 
south of Cape Sabine. The harbor was frozen over, and 
we made fast to the northern edge of the ice. Exploration 
parties, four in number, were at once sent out, to examine, 
at one and the same time, all the depots in the neighbor- 
hood. 

After this examination had been satisfactorily accom- 
plished, it was our intention to push on immediately into the 
Kane Sea. We scarcely imagined that anything of im- 
portance would be discovered by the exploring parties, and 
those who remained on board ship were therefore engaged 
in active preparations for the onward journey. The wind 
was very high and was roaring with might and main. 

Suddenly, above all the turmoil, was heard the sound of 
cheering. At first we could not tell from what quarter the 
sound proceeded. Another cheer came. This time it 
sounded nearer and louder. All work was suspended; all 
were eager, breathless with expectation as to what the next 
moment might bring forth. What did this cheering por- 
tend? Our ears were tingling, our lips apart with our 
quick breathing, our hearts aflame. Oh, God grant that 
it meant good news was the fervent, though unspoken, 
prayer of us all! 

Then a signal came. Ah, with what wildly throbbing 
hearts we read it! It was from Ensign Harlow on Stall- 
knecht Island. 

" Have found Greely's records. Send five men." 

The excitement! What words can depict it? And it in- 
creased at every moment. 

Before Harlow's request could be complied with, a man 
was seen running across the ice. This was Yewell, who 
told us, with panting breath, that a message from Greely 
had been found in the cairn on Brevoort Island. Yewell 
screamed out to the officers on deck, as he waved the papers 
he carried, that Greely's party was at Cape Sabine and all 
well. 

30 



AN ARCTIC RESCUE 

Instantly everything was in commotion. Three long 
whistle blasts from the Thetis summoned back all those 
who had gone forth on the searching tours. It was deter- 
mined at once to proceed with all despatch to the Cape. 

First, however, the papers discovered were carefully gone 
over, and, to our dismay, horror, even, we found that the 
latest date borne by any of them was October 21, 1883, and 
that at that time but forty days' complete rations were left 
for the entire party to exist upon! The conclusion, terrible 
as it was, was inevitable. The whole party, or the vast 
majority of them, must have perished, while waiting, watch- 
ing, and praying for the relief which had not reached them. 
The papers told a marvellous story of how Lockwood and 
Brainard had reached the " Farthest North." But some- 
how, at that moment, we cared but little about what had 
been accomplished. Our one desire was to reach those 
brave fellows and bring them relief from the untold suf- 
ferings they must be undergoing. 

A cutter, with Colwell in command, was directed to go 
to the site of a cache indicated in the reports of Greely. 
The ships were to follow. 

The cutter went on to the northward, but, before it had 
disappeared, I boarded the Bear, and soon the ship was 
under way, following the cutter around the Cape. The 
rest were to come after in the Thetis, which was to pick 
up those of the exploring parties who had not yet re- 
turned. The course which the cutter and the ships were 
to make was about six miles. It was a most fortunate 
matter that a southerly wind had driven the ice off shore 
into the Kane Sea, thus leaving an open passage for the 
vessels. 

There are moments in our lives which are never forgot- 
ten, and this was one of them in mine. How vividly it all 
comes back to me, all the anxiety, all the forebodings, and 
yet with hope behind it all, hope which was perhaps pre- 
dominant. I stood on the bow of the Bear gazing forward 
with eager, expectant eyes. The cutter was ploughing its 
way forward just ahead of us. Ah, what would be the end? 
That it was near I felt, I knew. 

At times I was afraid of what we might be about to en- 
counter, especially when I thought of the papers we had 

3T 



THE WHITE WORLD 

just recovered. A chill would run through my veins, which 
was by no means the result of the cold of the atmosphere. 
It was a chill of apprehension. 

What! Only forty days' rations left, and that was eight 
months ago! What unspeakable agony of mind and body, 
what untold sufferings must have been undergone since! 
My heart ached as I pictured it. The ship seemed to 
crawl. Moments appeared to be hours then. The anxiety, 
coupled with dread, to know the truth, was torture. Still, 
there was some inward voice which told me, in unmistak- 
able accents, that we were not to be too late. This buoyed 
me up through all the weary watching and waiting. I 
knew instinctively, standing there, looking with strained 
eyes over the frozen expanse before us, that our quest was 
not to be fruitless. 

As in a mirage, those poor, suffering fellows came up be- 
fore me, and I prayed, as I have never prayed before or 
since, that we might be in time. I am sure to-day, as I 
revert back, that the good God heard that prayer. 

It was late in the evening, and a storm was raging when 
Colwell arrived at his aimed-for point, but it was still day- 
light, although dull. Finally the boat reached the shore, 
keen eyes watching for any sign of human life, but nothing 
could be discovered. Then, as a point was rounded, all 
hearts for a moment seemed to stand still. 

On the top of the ridge, some fifty or sixty yards upward, 
could plainly be distinguished the figure of a man. The 
coxswain snatched up his boat-hook, with a flag attached 
to it, and waved it wildly. 

The man caught up a signal flag, and responded. 

Then slowly and painfully he came down the steep in- 
cline, falling once or twice, before he reached the water's 
edge. He could only walk feebly and with the utmost 
difficulty. 

"Who of all are there left?" cried out Colwell. 

" Seven left." 

Seven out of twenty-five! Oh, the pity of it! No, 
worse, the horror, the unspeakable horror of it! 

The man was a ghastly object to look upon. Great hol- 
lows indented his cheeks, and his beard and hair were strag- 
gling and matted. What he wore was simply an apology 

32 



AN ARCTIC RESCUE 

for clothing. He could scarcely speak in an intelligible 
manner, all his utterances being thick and mumbling, his 
lips twitching convulsively. 

Colwell leaped out of the boat, and the man instinctively 
pulled off his glove to give him his hand. Then briefly and 
quickly the following colloquy took place. 

" Where are they? " asked Colwell. 

" In the tent," pointing over his shoulder, " across the 
hill. The tent is down." 

" Is Mr. Greely alive? " 

" Yes, Greely's alive." 

" Any other officers? " 

" No." And then in an absent-minded manner, he re- 
peated, " The tent is down." 

" Who are you?" 

" Long." 

Long was taken into the cutter, and Colwell, with some 
of his companions, started toward the point indicated by 
Long. 

It was a desolate expanse of rocky ground they crossed 
before they came up to the tent. A man of soldierly bear- 
ing came out of the tent. It was Sergeant, now Major, 
Brainard. He drew himself up and was about to salute, 
when Colwell grasped his hand. 

And then? Oh, the ghastliness of it all as Colwell looked 
within the tent! Men dying of starvation, emaciated, suf- 
fering the tortures of the damned, almost unable to move 
or even to articulate. One raised his head a little, as Col- 
well lifted the flap of the tent, and feebly put on a pair of 
eyeglasses. 

" Who are you?" 

There was no response in words, nothing but a vacant 
stare. 

" Who are you? " came the question again. 

Then one of the other men faintly answered: 

"That's the Major— Major Greely." 

Colwell crawled into the tent, and took Greely's hand. 

" Greely, is this you? " 

" Yes," came the reply, in wavering, broken accents. 
" Yes — seven of us left — here we are, dying like men. Did 
what I came to do — beat the best record." 

33 



THE WHITE WORLD 

Then his voice stopped, and he collapsed in utter exhaus- 
tion. 

Besides Greely, there were in the tent two Sergeants, 
Elison and Fredericks; Biederbick, the hospital steward; 
and Private Connell, w T ho with Brainard and Long were all 
who remained of the original expedition. 

The whole scene, as Colwell surveyed it, was one of 
misery and squalor. How could it have been otherwise? 
Suffering unparalleled had been undergone. Almost noth- 
ing to sustain life was left. A few teaspoonfuls of brandy, 
that was all, and they were dividing this when Colwell came 
upon the scene. It was very plain that relief had only 
arrived in the nick of time. Xot one of the survivors could 
probably have lived forty-eight hours longer. 

The journey home was more or less uneventful. We 
stopped at St. John's, where we were greeted most enthusi- 
astically. The Alert joined us there. Finally, we reached 
New York, where we were received by a most distinguished 
company, including the Secretary of War, General Sheridan, 
General Hancock, Commodore Fillebrown, and other offi- 
cers of high rank. 

Our mission was finished, the task that had been entrusted 
to us was completed. We had met with success, but with 
what a loss among those connected with the original Greely 
Expedition! Nineteen had perished, and but six remained 
to be brought home. Once more I say: Is the game of 
Arctic exploration worth the candle? 

Well, that is for others to determine, not for me. 

But what no one can question is this: Officers and men, 
both on the Greely and on the relief expedition, displayed 
the utmost gallantry and devotion to duty. Their loyalty 
to the purposes in view is beyond praise. All America 
honored them at the time, and all America honors them 
to-day. 



34 



AFTER FIFTY YEARS 



AMOS BONSALL. 

Amos Bonsall was born in Delaware Co., Pa., 
Jan., 1830. In 1853 accompanied Dr. Kane as 
master's mate, U. S. N., on second Grinnell 
Arctic Expedition in search of Sir John Frank- 
lin, returning in 1855. Mr. Bonsall is the only 
living member of the second Grinnell Expedi- 
tion. 




AMOS BONSALL 



AFTER FIFTY YEARS 

By AMOS BONSALL 




,N aimed-for point which apparently can- 
not be touched! The inaccessible! 
Such a point is preeminently the 
North Pole. Yet there is an old adage 
which has been proved true on more 
occasions than one: " It is always the unexpected that hap- 
pens." And it is not impossible that the unexpected re- 
sults will be achieved some day by the strenuous and 
untiring efforts of Arctic explorers. Advancing science 
with its stupendous achievements, increasing each day, will 
undoubtedly be the most potent factor in success, if success 
is ever attained. 

In this connection the question naturally arises: What 
is the difference between Arctic exploration of the past, 
and Arctic exploration of the present? Of the past, as the 
only survivor of the famous Kane Expedition, of which 
I shall give a short sketch, I feel competent to speak. As 
to the present, I have taken a keen interest in, and have 
followed closely, the movements of all Arctic explorers. 

Our outfit, complete as we thought it was at the time, 
was as nothing in comparison with those of the later expe- 
ditions. How could it have been otherwise? What was 
known then of the vast majority of appliances for sustain- 
ing life, and aiding transportation from one point to an- 
other, which are so clearly understood to-day? We were 
then like undeveloped, uneducated children, as compared 
with /fully grown men in the plenitude of acquired knowl- 
edge. 

Compare for instance, the Kane Expedition with the 
Baldwin-Ziegler Expedition, the most complete in every 

39 



THE WHITE WORLD 

particular that has ever started for the North. We had 
simply a sailing vessel, dependent for movement upon wind 
and tide. Wind was our only propelling power. The 
Baldwin expedition has three vessels, with all the advan- 
tages that steam and every modern appliance can give. 
The number of men taken is nearly three times that of 
ours, and, beyond this, are scientists of all descriptions. 
Skilled hunters are carried; men who have had experience 
in the chase of walrus, seals, bears, etc., and by this means 
a large amount of game should be secured. We suffered 
greatly from a lack of fresh meat, and this led to the 
scourge of scurvy, from which scarcely one of us was 
exempt. 

The use of dogs, too, is much better understood than 
in our day, and this is the result of experience. Siberian 
ponies, of which we knew nothing, are to be employed by 
the Baldwin expedition. It is said that one of them is 
capable of carrying as much dead weight as can be trans- 
ported by a team of twenty dogs. 

We had only boats of a build which now seems very 
primitive, but the Baldwin expedition has gasolene launches 
of the most modern and approved pattern, which ought to 
prove of great service, especially in the narrow waterways, 
where the ships cannot pass. Portable houses, which were 
unknown in our day, will be most conducive to comfort. 
They are constructed so that they can be erected or taken 
down in an incredibly short time. 

One enormous advantage that the Baldwin and other 
modern expeditions have over ours is the ability to carry 
food in a condensed form; for instance, tablets which con- 
tain a large amount of nourishment and take up but little 
room. This in itself is a great desideratum for the econo- 
mization of space, which in the far north is a most serious 
consideration. 

So far as the obtaining of pictures is concerned, the 
modern expeditions are incalculably in advance of ours. 
Photography was then unknown, and we were limited to 
the taking of daguerreotypes. But now the expeditions 
are supplied with all the latest appliances for photographic 
work. They have cameras especially manufactured for the 
purpose, and fitted with films and plates adapted to the 

40 



AFTER FIFTY YEARS 

Arctic regions. Special artists also make paintings and 
sketches. The results should and doubtless will be invalu- 
able. 

Again, we had no means whatever of conveying news 
back to civilization, but the Baldwin expedition is gener- 
ously supplied with such appliances. They have forty bal- 
loons, which will be inflated with hydrogen gas, and over 
six hundred buoys, which will be set adrift at intervals, 
with news of the condition and progress of the party. 
Such methods of communication were not thought of in 
our time, and if they had been suggested to us we should 
have considered them impossible of achievement. The 
expeditions of Peary, who is now in the far north, have 
also been admirably equipped, the funds for the purpose 
having been raised by the personal exertions of this indom- 
itable explorer, with very little outside assistance. 

Enormous advance has also been made in ice-breaking 
ships, built especially to force their way through the floes. 
The "Advance ", Kane's ship, could not do that. Offen- 
sive tactics are now being used instead of defensive ones, 
and this will doubtless prove of great benefit. In this con- 
nection, Admiral Makaroff, of the Russian Imperial Navy, 
who in the ship " Ermack " has already penetrated far to 
the north, through the polar ice, says: 

" I believe that the discovery of the Poles will depend 
mainly upon the use of powerful ice-breaking vessels. 
Dr. Nansen proved the utility of building a ship strong 
enough to resist the ice, and of permitting it to be carried 
along by the drifting ice current. Instead of a ship which 
can only withstand the ice, I would attack the Polar waste 
with a vessel strong enough to cut her way through any 
ice in existence." 

These ice crushers may be of immense advantage in 
present and future expeditions. The idea of balloons, too, 
is coming more and more into prominence, especially 
through Andree's expedition, ill-fated though it may have 
been. If an improvement comes in the construction of 
balloons, as it undoubtedly will in the course of time, they 
will in all probability, be productive of great results. 

Now to revert to my personal experiences with the fam- 
ous expedition of Dr. Elisha Kent Kane, of which I was 

4i 



THE WHITE WORLD 

a member, and which had a double object, the discovery of 
the North Pole, and the rescue of Sir John Franklin. The 
most intense interest was felt in regard to the fate of this 
gallant man, an interest which extended in a large degree 
to those who attempted his rescue. 

As a young man, my admiration for Dr. Kane had been 
greatly excited, and my interest in his experiences in 
the Arctic regions was very keen. My elation may there- 
fore be imagined, when I received from my ideal hero 




From a painting by Albert Operti 



ICE LOCKED 



a letter asking for an interview at his home, 1116 Girard 
Street, Philadelphia. Of course I complied with his re- 
quest, and called upon him. At the suggestion of his 
uncle, George H. Thomas, he made a proposition to me 
to accompany him on a projected exploring expedition 
to the Arctic regions, and to become one of the officers of 
the expedition. I was naturally very much flattered, and 
eagerly accepted the invitation, with the proviso that my 
mother should srive her consent. This consent was not 



42 



AFTER FIFTY YEARS 

easily obtained, but after much persuasion it was finally 
given and I reported the fact to Dr. Kane. 

I was then directed to take lessons in daguerreotyping, 
in order that I might be put in charge of an outfit of that 
kind, which it was intended should accompany the expe- 
dition, for the purpose of getting plates of the scenes in 
the Arctic regions. Most unfortunately, the results of 
this work were lost on our return. The box containing 
the daguerreotypes was put upon a sledge on the ice, and 
was carried away, together with the whole collection of 
Arctic birds, which had been prepared with great care for 
the Academy of Natural Science. This was an irreparable 
loss, and one that to this day I have never ceased to regret. 

The expedition sailed from New York on the 31st of 
May, 1853. There were some six officers, and the crew 
consisted of eight sailors, besides the steward and cooks, 
comprising in all a company of eighteen. The vessel was 
the little brig " Advance," of one hundred and forty tons. 
This had been donated by Henry Grinnell of the firm of 
Grinnell, Minturn & Co., of New York. 

We were ostensibly in search of Sir John Franklin and 
his party. This expedition had gone to the region of 
Lancaster Sound, to attempt the discovery of a northwest 
passage, and nothing had been heard of it for two or three 
years. It had, to all human knowledge, disappeared from 
the world. Our plan was at that time considered a some- 
what novel one. The intention was, instead of taking the 
route which Franklin's expedition had adopted, to sail 
directly north to the gates of Smith's Sound. This place 
had been visited many years before by Captain Baffin, but 
the passage had not been attempted by any later expedition. 
We hoped that we could thereby discover a new sound to 
the west, where Franklin it was thought, might possibly 
be found. 

At St. John's, we were received with great enthusiasm, 
for knowledge of the fate of Franklin was most eagerly 
desired. As we proceeded northward we found the 
country so peculiar in its geological structure and its 
scenerv, as to make us feel that we were indeed out of the 
before-known world. The people were so primitive in 
their habits as to render all things utterly novel. 

43 



THE WHITE WORLD 

Our curiosity was particularly excited by finding the 
natives so expert with their kayaks or canoes. They 
seemed to be able to go out on the high seas without 
danger. In making the port of Upernavik, we were inter- 
ested in seeing a kayaker come out from behind the bend 
of the channel in which we were moving, to approach the 
ship. The sea was comparatively heavy, and yet the man 
had apparently no difficulty in making his way over the 
tempestuous waters. When he reached the side of the 
ship, we recognized how it was done. It was effected by 
the arrangement of his outer clothing, which was made of 
water-proof skin, and fastened by a drawing string around 
the lips of the manhole, or opening in the kayak, through 
which the man enters the lower part of his body, and then, 
by tying a string around his wrists and the face openings 
of the jumper-hood, very little water can enter or penetrate 
his clothing. 

Upernavik was a place of great interest, as it was at that 
time, and I believe is to-day, the most northerly town in 
which white people dwell. There were a few Danes in the 
village, besides the officers appointed by the royal direc- 
tory of Denmark. These latter took charge of the busi- 
ness of purchasing oil and skins from the natives, and sel- 
ling to them such articles as they needed — coal, stoves, and 
goods of different kinds to be utilized in making their 
summer dresses. The association with the Danish Govern- 
ment redounded greatly to the advantage of the natives. 

As we proceeded further north, the ice floes became 
more and more numerous, and again and again we had to 
halt because of obstructions and work our way back. 
Occasionally we would find what appeared to be an ex- 
cellent lead, only to discover that it ended in solid ice, 
which was impassable for the ship. After passing Cape 
York, however, and entering the north water, we were 
not embarrassed by the floes, and the vessel proceeded in 
open water, until we had crossed the parallel of seventy- 
seven degrees, where we again encountered heavy obstruc- 
tions of ice. 

The season was waning, and we were growing more 
and more anxious to enter the field of our labors north of 
Smith's Sound. We passed rapidly the crimson cliffs of 

44 



AFTER FIFTY YEARS 

Beverly. These were romantically named by Sir John 
Ross the " Red Snow and Crimson Cliffs." They are 
made crimson, partly by the rich scarlet lichen, and partly 
by a minute plant which grows upon melting snow, and 
which is called proto carcus nivalis. We passed on north- 
ward encountering heavier ice than we had seen before. 

Then came a battle of days and weeks in which we strug- 
gled for movement, but were continually baffled by the 
north winds and heavy floes, sometimes at great danger 
to the ship. At length we were forced into a bay a hundred 
miles northeast of Cape Alexander, where we were com- 
pelled to seek harbor, because of the absolute impossibility 
of moving the ship any farther to the north and east. Dr. 
Kane named this place Rensselaer Bay, and it became the 
fixed harbor of the ship from that time to the end. The 
vessel was altered as much as possible into the semblance 
of a house, and our mode of living was changed from sail- 
ing to resting. And yet, after all, it was not entirely rest- 
ing, for there were many parties sent out to establish depots 
of provisions for the spring journeys which had been pro- 
jected. 

The first expedition of observation was made on foot, 
as the ice was not strong enough to travel over in sledges, 
and we had to depend on what is known as " ice foot." 
This is the ice formed by the overflow of the tide, when 
it is cold enough to freeze quickly, the level surface being 
as high as high tide, and breaking down sharply to a point 
as low as low tide. This forms a wall on the sea side. Of 
course, this necessitated tortuous travel, as we were com- 
pelled to follow the turnings of the shore. 

A second expedition, which was placed in my charge, 
was much more extended, for we went as far as the great 
Glacier Humboldt, which was first discovered by the party, 
and upon the south end of which we placed our most ex- 
tended depot of provision. We found very soon that any 
hope of reaching the land to the north of the glacier, in 
the line we had contemplated, was impossible, and we 
were greatly embarrassed by our inability to judge dist- 
ances. The land we had in view seemed constantly to 
recede. This is the same experience that was undergone 
by the earliest navigators, when they sailed for days and 

45 



THE WHITE WORLD 

days toward land which seemed to be visible to the eye, 
and yet, as the ship advanced, appeared to be farther and 
farther away. In face of this extraordinary circumstance, 
we could readily understand the superstition of the sailors 
of the early days. 

Several of the expeditions were disastrous, resulting - in 
loss of life. Our work also, was greatly hampered by the 
sickness and suffering of our members, only five or six 
being fit to go out. We did not meet with any great suc- 
cess, as we were only enabled to go one hundred miles 
north, to 8i° 30' latitude. However, Kennedy Channel 
was discovered to be comparatively open water, and, while 
it was impossible to make a channel for the ship, it gave 
us such information of the proper course to pursue that 
it enabled Hall and Sir James Nares of England, to make 
a much higher latitude; and the Greely Expedition, which 
met with scarcely any obstruction, to establish itself at 
latitude 82 50' (Fort Conger) with very little difficulty. 
Our discovery was certainly of great value to later ex- 
plorers. 

Week after week, month after month, passed, but the 
ice in Rensselaer Bay did not break up sufficiently to 
enable us to escape with the vessel. Great efforts were 
made to move the ship, but it could be done only for a few 
hundred yards, and then we were hemmed in again. The 
hope of escape passed from our minds. 

After efforts were made by Dr. Kane to move south- 
ward, he returned to the ship with the feeling that we 
could not get out of the bay that year. He therefore gave 
to any or all the right and privilege to make an effort to 
reach Upernavik through the passage of Melville Bay, if 
they desired to do so. Eight of the expedition, leaving 
ten behind, started on that journey, but we encountered 
such heavy ice that we made no progress. The " young " 
ice formed over night heavy enough to render it impossi- 
ble to break through with the boats, and we were com- 
pelled to give it up. In the early part of December fol- 
lowing, after an absence of four months, the party was 
compelled to return to the ship. We were comparatively 
free from scurvy, and thanked Providence that our lives 
had been spared. 

46 




' 



AFTER FIFTY YEARS 

Thus we passed the second winter under the greatest 
difficulties, and still hoping that in the coming spring, we 
would be enabled to take the vessel out, and make the 
journey home with all hands. It was a hard vvinter, and 
as we had exhausted our supply of anti-scorbutics, the 
scurvy was making heavy inroads. Those of us who had 
been living on fresh foods were free from the scourge, but 
when we returned to the ship we had frozen hands and 
feet to take care of. Our straits can be appreciated, when 
the fact is stated that in the month of February of that 
year (1855), Dr. Kane and myself were the only two on 
the ship who were able to go outside and work for the 
welfare of others. 

As early as possible further efforts were made to go 
south with the whole party; the sledges were fixed, and the 
boats mounted upon them, and the whole fleet started from 
Rensselaer Bay, on May 20, to slide these boats over the 
ice ninety miles to the open water. This laborious work 
required several weeks for its accomplishment. The ice 
became weak as the sun rose in power, and we were con- 
stantly breaking through, having to discharge the cargoes 
of the boats and extricate them from the ice, and move on, 
only to find the same difficulty again, every few hundred 
yards. In the course of time, however, we succeeded in 
reaching the bay, and in the latter part of June we were 
enabled to launch the boats in their natural element. 

After more or less difficulty, we reached Upernavik on 
the morning of August 6, 1855, just two years to a day, 
from the time we had left the place on our upward voyage. 
We were lodged in the oil-house where we were, according 
to our ideas, very comfortable indeed, and prepared to wait 
patiently for the arrival of a vessel in the harbor, which 
should restore us to home and friends. About a week 
later a ship came in and then, after she had discharged her 
cargo and reloaded, we took passage on the bluff-bowed 
vessel " Marianna." 

At Godhaven, one hundred and fifty miles south — a 
voyage which took us about three days to accomplish, ow- 
ing to the slow speed of the vessel — we were surprised and 
delighted to meet with United States ships which had been 
sent out in search of us. They had been far to the north, 

49 



THE WHITE WORLD 

but finding that we had departed, they retraced their way 
and passed on to the south, hoping to overtake us before 
we got out of the country. This they did, by corning into 
the harbor of Godhaven about two days after our arrival, 
where the ship was waiting for clearance papers in order 
to set sail for Copenhagen. We took leave of our friends 
and acquaintances among the Danes, with whom we had 
had very pleasant and friendly relations, and transferred 
our light luggage to the United States store-ship " Re- 
lease," and prepared to depart for more congenial climes. 

As an evidence of the clearness of the atmosphere, after 
passing out of Upernavik, we could see the outline of the 
mountains of Disko Island, one hundred and fifty miles 
away, a distance in our own country which it would be 
impossible for the eye to reach. We met with very cour- 
teous treatment from the Danes and the Eskimo at God- 
haven, and will always remember with pleasure the few 
days we spent on the island. 

On our arrival home, we were heralded with great joy by 
the whole country, as it had been believed by our friends 
and the greater number of the people that the whole expe- 
dition had been lost; for we had been absent a whole year 
longer than was anticipated. 



50 



FARTHEST NORTH WITH GREELY 



MAJOR DAVID L. BRAINARD, U. S. A. 

Major David L. Brainard, U. S. A., was born 
in Norway, N. Y., Dec, 1856. In 1881 he joined 
the Lady Franklin Bay Expedition under Lieu- 
tenant A. W. Greely. With the late Lieutenant 
Lockwood he reached 83 24', the farthest point 
north ever reached by man up to that time. 
Was one of the six survivors rescued with Lieu- 
tenant Greely at Cape Sabine. Promoted for 
gallantry rendered during expedition; received 
Back Grant of Royal Geographical Society for 
1885. 




MAJOR DAVID L. BRAINARD, U. S. A. 



FORT CONGER 




Copyright by Ric 



FARTHEST NORTH WITH GREELY 

By Major DAVID L. BRAINARD, U. S. A. 




-HE Lady Franklin Bay Expedition, or, as it has 
been popularly termed, the " Greely Expedition," 
was authorized by act of Congress approved 
March 3, 1881, and to it belonged the honor 
of having attained a point farther north than 
ever before had been reached. 

Considering the meager appropriation allowed 
for this expedition, its limited equipment, and 
the fact that all the members were without pre- 
vious experience in work of this kind, the re- 
sults achieved place it among the most successful, both 
scientifically and geographically, of all modern Arctic efforts. 



55 



THE WHITE WORLD 

Lieutenant (now General) Adolphus W. Greely, U. S. 
Army, was assigned to the command of the expedition, and 
with him were associated Lieutenant F. F. Kislingbury, 
Eleventh U. S. Infantry, Lieutenant J. B. Lockwood, 
Twenty-third U. S. Infantry, and Dr. Octave Pavy, together 
with twenty-one enlisted men of the army — all of whom 
had been selected with an eye to their fitness for the arduous 
work of Arctic exploration, from among the troops stationed 
at the military posts on the extreme Northwestern frontier. 

The party rendezvoused at St. John's, Newfoundland, 
and on July 7, 1881, steamed northward on the S. S. 
" Proteus," reaching Godhaven, Greenland, July 16. At 
Upernavik, two Eskimo — Jens Edward and Frederik Thor- 
lip Christiansen — from Proven, were engaged as hunters 
and dog drivers. 

Leaving Upernavik on July 29 , the " Proteus " pro- 
ceeded northward, and on the 12th of August dropped 
anchor in Discovery Harbor, Lady Franklin Bay, latitude 
81 ° 44' N.; longitude 64 45' W. The stores were imme- 
diately disembarked and the vessel was ordered back to 
St. John's. In the meantime Lieutenant Greely had been 
busy superintending the erection of the frame house that 
we had brought with us, and by August 31, the work was 
sufficiently advanced to permit us to occupy our new 
quarters. Small hunting and exploring parties were then 
dispatched in various directions for the purpose of ascer- 
taining something of the conformation and resources of the 
country, and, if possible, to obtain information concerning 
the condition of the caches of provisions which had been 
left by the Nares expedition of 1875. After much hard 
labor, involving no little suffering, numerous musk-oxen 
were killed, thus insuring us a supply of fresh meat for 
many months, and several depots of provisions were placed 
at points convenient for the work of exploration the fol- 
lowing year. After this had been accomplished, the party 
settled down to spend its first winter at Fort Conger, as our 
station had been named by Lieutenant Greely, in honor of 
Senator Conger, of Michigan. 

The winter was passed pleasantly, the return of the sun 
finding us busy with the details of field equipment for 
spring traveling. During the long Arctic night, the pro- 

56 



FARTHEST NORTH WITH GREELY 

posed exploration of the northwestern coast of Greenland 
was the principal subject of discussion, and the chief ambi- 
tion of each member of the party was to be chosen for this 
important work. The experiences of Hall and Beaumont 
were exhaustively considered during the tedious weeks of 
waiting, and the mental depression and melancholia, which 
seemed the inevitable accompaniments of this dreary period 
in the Arctic regions were somewhat relieved by the ex- 
pectation that the expedition was destined to accomplish 
wonderful things. 

During this time Lieutenant Greely formulated a com- 
prehensive scheme of exploration covering three different 
directions. To Lieutenant Lockwood was assigned the 
northwest coast of Greenland, and that officer was directed 
to assume complete charge of the field work, having all the 
available resources of the expedition placed at his disposal, 
including all the caches previously established. 

In the months of February and March several pre- 
liminary journeys were made in unprecedentedly cold 
weather, thus giving the party an experience in the details 
of field work which later proved invaluable to it. One of 
the most important of these journeys was made by Lieu- 
tenant Lockwood, Sergeant Jewell, Eskimo Frederik, and 
myself, across Robeson Channel, to the " Gap " and to the 
grave of the gallant Hall, at Thank God Harbor. Return- 
ing, we crossed the peninsula, back of Polaris Promontory, 
to Newman Bay, and thence home by way of Capes Sumner 
and Beechey. 

At last, all preparations being completed, Lieutenant 
Lockwood organized his field force into two parties — the 
main and the supporting. The former consisted of Lock- 
wood, Jewell, and Frederik Christiansen, with a sledge and 
team of eight dogs. The supporting party was composed 
of ten men, commanded by myself, and was assigned 
to Hudson Bay sledges dragged by hand as follows: 
" Sledge Hayes," Sergeants Brainard, Ralston, and Private 
Whisler; " Sledge Kane," Sergeant Linn and Corporal Eli- 
son; "Sledge Beaumont," Corporal Salor and Privates 
Biederbick and Connell; " Sledge Hall," Privates Henry and 
Frederick. 

Our little house at Fort Conger had been a valiant home 

57 



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to us through the first Arctic night, and it was with genuine 
regret that we turned from its cheery prospect to tempt the 
mysteries of the frozen sea. We had already experienced 
the desolation and nipping frost of Thank God Harbor 
and Newman Bay, and we could not but regretfully com- 
pare them to the more inviting field which we were to leave 
behind. 

The house was cozily hemmed in on the north, south and 
west, by mountain peaks — the most conspicuous being the 
Hogback, so named from the sloping tendency of its summit; 
the coast to the westward for many miles consisted of inac- 
cessible cliffs, with a height in many places of nearly two 
thousand feet; and to the eastward the level monotony of 
Robeson Channel was broken by the steep-ascending and 
repellent mountains of the Greenland coast. Everything 
that we were to leave, indeed, was pleasing and homelike; 
everything before us was desolate, formidable, and un- 
known. 

At 6.30 P. M. April 3, 1882, as Lieutenant Lockwood's 
second in command, I left Fort Conger with the supporting 
party, under instructions from that officer to proceed to 
the snow house at Cape Beechey, twenty-five miles distant, 
where a depot of provisions had been established during 
the preceding autumn, and there to prepare field rations 
for transportation across Robeson Channel to the Green- 
land coast. 

Before our departure, Lieutenant Greely called the mem- 
bers of the advance party together and delivered a short 
but impressive address, in which he informed them of the 
importance of the venture on which they were about to 
embark, the dangers involved, the necessity of observing 
all possible precautions, and of his earnest hope for the 
successful termination of the enterprise. A hand-shaking 
followed Lieutenant Greely's remarks, and the four sledges 
of the supporting party moved toward the shore. Here we 
found evidence that those of our comrades to be left 
behind had arranged to give us a soldierly farewell. As 
we climbed down the ice foot to the floe, three hearty 
cheers rang out, followed by a tiger, and every flag and 
every gun in the company were utilized to give appropriate 
emphasis to the kindly feelings of the unlucky ones who 
had not been designated to take the field. 

58 




3 3 

a li- 

o O 

3 O 



FARTHEST NORTH WITH GREELY 

Lieutenant Lockwood reached Cape Beechey on the 
morning of the 5th and that evening, soon after 8 o'clock, 
both parties left the comfortable snow house and pushed 
across the hummocky ice packs toward the Boat Camp of 
the " Polaris " expedition, on the southern shore of New- 
man Bay. The system of marching at night when the tem- 
perature was lowest and sleeping during the day was adopted 
from the start, thereby insuring the greater comfort to the 
party. 

There was no difficulty in traveling at night; for, after 
the 9th we had the sun with us constantly night and day, 
and while we were cheered and stimulated by its warm, 
bright rays, the powerful reflection from the snow blistered 
our faces and tortured our eyes. At first goggles with 
tinted lenses were used as a protection, but later they were 
discarded because they became a source of annoyance, ow- 
ing to the necessity of having frequently to remove them, 
in order to clear away the incrustation of frost which had 
formed from the moisture of the breath. The most of 
us were afflicted with snow blindness, and numerous were 
the schemes to which we resorted to prevent this form of 
suffering. 

The journey across Robeson Channel was attended with 
great hardships, for, with few exceptions, the men were 
not inured to field work under the trying conditions en- 
countered. The snow was deep and soft, the ice was rough, 
and the narrow sledges were frequently overturned and 
buried in the drifts. Thus our progress was slow and 
laborious and at times almost disheartening. To add to 
our discomfort, snow storms prevailed most of the time, 
and for two days a violent gale stopped our advance and 
confined us closely to our tents pitched on the ice. Several 
cases of frost bite occurred, but fortunately they were not 
serious. We learned from experience that the only safe 
method of treating superficial frost bite was to apply the 
warm hand briskly to the affected part, until the frost was 
removed. Elison, however, rejected the approved method, 
and by adhering to the old idea of using snow, lost every 
vestige of skin from his somewhat prominent nose. 

Our first camp after leaving Cape Beechey was made 
under rather unhappy circumstances. The regulated scale 

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of rations went into effect that morning with particularly 
disagreeable results, not wholly unexpected, and which 
tended to lower the social atmosphere quite to the zero 
point. The allowance of alcohol for fuel was not nearly 
sufficient to bring the chocolate to the boiling point, and 
our stew of corned beef and broken hard bread was just 
barely warm. The regulation pint of fluid was not at all 
satisfactory, neither was it sufficient for the tired, chilled, 
and hungry men, who had been laboring and perspiring 
incessantly for several hours in a low temperature. Later, 
however, when the cooks became more familiar with the 
cooking apparatus, and knew better how to economize fuel 
and time and make the most of their opportunities, the 
allowance of alcohol was found to be ample. Strange as 
it may appear, thirst was our greatest enemy and was more 
dreaded than the cold. The work of hauling a heavily laden 
sledge through rubble ice was so trying, even under the 
most favorable conditions, that the traveler was kept con- 
stantly bathed in a profuse perspiration, inducing a burning, 
exasperating thirst, from which there was no escape, and 
which could in no way be alleviated. 

Our position on the floe in this place, a few miles from 
shore, was exposed to the chilling blasts sweeping relent- 
lessly down from the north; the temperature was about 50 
below zero, and this unwelcome combination rendered sleep 
almost an impossibility. To add to our discomfort the 
sleeping-bags, which had become saturated with moisture 
during the previous nights, through the melting of the 
accumulated frost, and which while occupied were kept in 
a pliable state by the warmth of our bodies, had become 
frozen during the day to the rigidity of iron. In order 
that they should occupy as little space as possible on the 
sledges, they had been rolled up tightly on leaving camp, 
and had frozen in that position. We were not able to get 
into them at once, but were compelled, from necessity, to 
thaw our way gradually in by sitting on the roll, and insert- 
ing the feet under the outer edge. As the warmth of the 
body was imparted to the frozen folds, they yielded slightly 
to the pressure and the feet were pushed still farther in, 
until in time the whole body found its way inside the pro- 
tecting skin and the flap was pulled down over the end 
in the vain effort to shut out the cold. 

62 



FARTHEST NORTH WITH GREELY 

The sleeping-bag is one of the most important articles 
in the equipment of the Arctic explorer. It is made in 
the form of an envelope opening from the end, is somewhat 
narrow at the lowest part, the hair turned inward, and is 
provided with a large flap which may be drawn over the 
exposed end and secured with thongs. The best bag is 
made of reindeer skin, but well-tanned dog, sheep, or buf- 
falo skin may be used with good results. An outer enve- 
lope of oil-tanned sealskin renders the bag impervious to 
water and contributes much to the warmth and comfort of 
the occupant. The majority of our bags were made of 
buffalo skin, without the protecting outer covering, and 
when spread ready to be occupied, with only a single rub- 
ber blanket between them and the frozen snow, their ap- 
pearance did not inspire confidence and they were never 
inviting. Frequently two and sometimes three men occupy 
the same bag. The obvious advantage of this arrangement 
is that the sleepers keep each other warm; the disadvantage, 
equally obvious, is the impracticability of individual action, 
the close quarters rendering it impossible to change one's 
position without the contemporaneous shifting of one's 
companions. A sleeping-bag is indispensable, but it is 
uninviting and uncomfortable at best, and certainly is not 
conducive to pleasant dreams. 

On the second morning Henry complained of rheumatic 
pains and a sprained knee, and asserted that he could not 
proceed further, so Lieutenant Lockwood ordered him to 
return home. Connell discovered that one of his feet had 
been frostbitten during the night, but with characteristic 
pluck he determined to go on with the party and took his 
place in the drag ropes. After painfully hobbling along 
for some time on his blistered foot, he reluctantly turned 
back and joined Henry. This reduced the force of the 
supporting party so materially, that Jewell was detached 
from the dog sledge and sent to assist us. 

At 7 A. M., April 10, we reached the Boat Camp which 
Lieutenant Lockwood had designated as a supply depot. 
The upturned boat and a few fragments of the tent aban- 
doned by the " Polaris " party in 1872 were the only 
evidence that the spot had ever before been visited by man. 

During our stay at this camp our time was fully occupied 

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in bringing up the provisions which we had previously 
stored on the coast south of Cape Sumner, and in preparing 
them for transportation, as well as in repairing the sledges, 
which were much battered by their encounters with the 
razor-like edges of rubble ice. From this camp Lieutenant 
Lockwood made a flying trip back to Fort Conger for a 
final consultation with Lieutenant Greely, and for the pur- 
pose of exchanging the unserviceable runners of the dog 
sledge for another and stronger pair. The defective venti- 
lation of the snow house we constructed here resulted in 
the illness of two of our men — Biederbick and Whisler, 
and Lieutenant Lockwood directed that they return home 
for proper treatment. Biederbick begged to be allowed 
to accompany us northward, but the necessity of his im- 
mediate return was obvious to all. 

All preparations having been made, our northern 
journey was resumed on the evening of April 16, the 
men in the drag ropes each hauling from 150 to 220 pounds. 
Crossing to the north 'side of Newman Bay, we cut short 
the projection of land forming Cape Brevoort by traveling 
overland through Rocky Gorge Creek and Lost River, 
reaching the Great Polar Sea at Repulse Harbor. The 
conditions of traveling across the divide were particularly 
trying. Rocky Gorge Creek was, in places, extremely 
narrow, rocky, and tortuous; the deep snow was covered 
with a crust not quite strong enough to bear our weight, 
and through this our feet and sledges broke at every step. 
The snow was succeeded by patches of bare ground and 
beds of gravel, over which the sledges could be dragged 
only by standing pulls. 

From Repulse Harbor, which place we left April 23, 
we pushed northward along the winding coast, passing in 
succession Drift Point, Black Horn Cliff, and Cape Stanton, 
near which we found the small cache of rations left by 
Lieutenant Beaumont, R. N., in 1876. This latter point 
placed us farther north on the coast of Greenland than 
Americans had ever before reached; thence on, past Hand 
and Frankfield Bays, finally on April 27, reaching Cape 
Bryant, the place selected by Lieutenant Lockwood from 
which the supporting party was to turn back. Here, as at 
many other points on the coast, traces of hare, lemming and 
ptarmigan were found. 



FARTHEST NORTH WITH GREELY 

During the 28th, we remained at Cape Bryant rearrang- 
ing our load, and securing some rest for the final dash 
northward. Ralston, Elison and I proceeded along the 
coast of St. George Fiord to Cape Fulford, which we as- 
cended. Looking out from our lofty position on this 
promontory we obtained an excellent view of Cape May, 
Dragon Point and Mounts Hooker, Coppinger and Far- 
ragut, as well as of the fringe of stately snow-capped 
mountains along the western shore of this fiord. Stephen- 
son's and Beaumont's Islands and Cape Britannia, however, 
could not be distinctly seen, owing to the hazy atmosphere 
in that direction, but dark, shapeless masses, barely dis- 
cernible, alone indicated to us the position of the lands 
which we had resolved, if possible, to attain. 

On the 29th, we built a large cairn in which surplus 
provisions and all articles of our equipment, not absolutely 
necessary for traveling, were stored for future use. In 
accordance with Lieutenant Greely's wish, expressed before 
our departure from Fort Conger, Lieutenant Lockwood 
then detached me from the supporting party to accompany 
him to the northward, and Sergeant Linn was directed to 
conduct that party back to the Boat Camp and there await 
our return. 

Before taking leave of this party of men, I desire to 
speak of the praiseworthy manner in which they performed 
all their arduous duties, and of their intelligent efforts, 
under all circumstances, to advance the interests of our 
undertaking. They responded with alacrity and enthus- 
iasm to all demands; they labored cheerfully and inces- 
santly, and bore their sufferings with uncomplaining forti- 
tude. 

At 4.18 P. M. that day, Sergeant Linn and his party left 
for the Boat Camp using the sledge " Hall " to transport 
their provisions and effects. Half an hour later. Lock- 
wood, the Eskimo dog driver, Frederik Christiansen and 
myself started with the dog team and twenty-five days' pro- 
visions, taking a course toward Cape May. The total 
weight of our load, including sledge, was 783 pounds — 
nearly ninety-eight pounds to each dog. 

The intelligence and usefulness of the Arctic dog surpasses 
understanding, and of all these animals met with, " Riten- 

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THE WHITE WORLD 

benk," the king dog of our team, was the most conspicu- 
ous example. Large, with a mixed white, black, and 
mouse colored coat, a tail which curled tightly over his 
back, a broad intelligent head and a bright twinkling eye, 
he was the embodiment of strength, courage and sagacity. 
Ritenbenk was a wonderful fellow. By reason of his great 
strength and highly superior intelligence, he had gained 
the supremacy of the team. He was, therefore, the leader 
in all the schemes for stealing our provisions. 

One day when he had stolen a ptarmigan, which had 
been placed for safety on the ridge pole of the tent, he lay 
down, and, apparently with no qualms of conscience, began 
in the most complacent manner to eat it. I rushed at him 
with a spade, expecting to drive him from our anticipated 
dinner, but he was far from being the coward I had pic- 
tured him. He gave vent to- a growl of defiance, and stood 
immovable, his sturdy legs wide apart, and his great bold 
eyes looking squarely into mine. Of course, I might have 
crushed his skull with a blow, but my admiration for his 
courage overcame me, and I threw away the spade, and 
called him by his familiar name " Rit," whereupon he trotted 
up and rubbed his head in the most confiding manner 
against my knee. 

Each pack of Greenland dogs has an acknowledged 
leader, an absolute, autocratic king, who has won his way 
to supremacy by fighting every other dog that dared to 
enter the lists against him. Likewise each team has its 
king, and this dog exercises undisputed sway over the 
others, enforcing discipline and administering punishment 
whenever in his judgment it is necessary; and it must be 
admitted that the judgment of a king dog often appears to 
an outsider to be biased. 

When Ritenbenk joined Lieutenant Greely's pack at the 
Greenland town, from which he was named, a huge dog, 
known as u Disco King," was the ruling spirit among his 
companions, which were confined in a huge wooden pen 
located on the main deck of the " Proteus." The battle for 
supremacy was fierce and prolonged, and Disco King, 
divested of his royal authority, was ever afterward a broken- 
hearted mean-spirited outcast, who lived a melancholy, re- 
gretful life, apart from his former subjects. He had not 

66 



FARTHEST NORTH WITH GREELY 

recovered from his humiliation on the northern trip, though 
several months had elapsed since his downfall, and he would 
discourage the friendly approach of the members of our 
party, or of his associates, with a churlish snarl which soon 
gained him the appropriate name of " Howler." He never 
engaged in Ritenbenk's midnight predatory raids on our 
commissary department, but would frequently warn us of 
the conspiracy on foot to rob our larder. For this, and 
other reasons, he was not popular with his companions; 




SLEDGING TO LOCKWOOD ISLAND 



and Ritenbenk encouraged his subordinates in their con- 
stant attacks upon his former enemy. " Howler's " only 
vengeance was in tugging fiercely at his trace, whenever 
the king and his people were inclined to move at a more 
leisurely pace, and he was the last to cease exerting his 
strength when the heavy sledge stuck in the snow. Poor 
" Howler's " faithful and loyal service to us, terminated 
abruptly about thirteen months later, when he succumbed 
to hard work and short rations, only a few miles from Fort 
Conger, as we were returning from our long trip across 

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THE WHITE WORLD 

Grinnell Land to the Western Ocean. He was turned loose 
10 follow us to the station, but died from exhaustion while 
struggling along in the deep snow to his home. 

From day to day we grew to depend much on the superior 
intelligence of Ritenbenk in passing our sledge over dim- 
cult places and in plowing our way through the deep snow, 
now made soft by the rising temperature. When the driver 
gave the signal for the team to start, Ritenbenk would jump 
to his feet uttering his orders to his subordinates in quick, 
sharp barks, at the same time pressing into his harness 
with all his strength. Woe to the unfortunate dog that 
did not respond with alacrity to his commands, for the 
punishment was swift, sure, and effective. We watched 
Ritenbenk with great solicitude, and one day when he was 
sick and staggered along with drooping ears and tail, we 
were all depressed. That night he was offered a place in 
the tent protected from the storm, but, ill though he was, 
he scorned such a resting place, preferring to share the 
bed of snow with his fellows. 

When we started out the traveling at first was very good, 
but upon emerging from the fringe of shore hummocks, we 
entered on a " domed " floe which was subsequently discov- 
ered to be embayed ice. The dogs trotted rapidly along 
over the undulating surface of this floe for a short time, 
but soon deep snow was encountered which increased in 
depth and softness as we advanced until our sledge finally 
sank to its slats, whereupon the dogs sat down and refused 
to work. By seizing the traces close to the sledge and 
making " standing pulls," we succeeded in again placing 
the sledge on firm crust, but it soon broke through as 
before. The condition of the snow finally became so un- 
favorable that Lieutenant Lockwood decided that it would 
be economy of time and labor to^ advance half of the load 
at a time, until there should be an improvement in the 
traveling. He also changed the course from Cape May to 
the direction of Cape Britannia, thus avoiding the deeper 
snow which lies well up in the bavs near the land. 

On the 2d of May, Lieutenant Lockwood informed Fred- 
erik that if he would get his team and sledge to Cape 
Britannia he would be rewarded with ioo kroner. Frederik 
needed no other aim to stimulate his efforts, and voice and 

68 



FARTHEST NORTH WITH GREELY 

lash were used without stint to urge his dogs forward. 
When near Cape May, we crossed -a remarkable tidal crack 
cleaving the otherwise solid floe of embayed ice, and en- 
deavored to get a sounding, but found no bottom at 835 
feet. At the place of crossing the crack was about four 
feet wide, but in many places it was much wider and ex- 
tended as far as we could see to the northwest in the general 
direction of Beaumont Island, and to the southeast toward 
Cape May. 

Owing to the great difficulties experienced near Cape 
May by Beaumont's sledge party in 1876, in consequence 
of deep snow, we had not been sanguine of reaching farther 
north than Cape May, but now we saw Cape Britannia in 
our grasp and put forth every effort to reach it. 

At 7.30 on the evening of May 4, we reached this cape, 
and though much exhausted, dragged ourselves up the 
ice foot to the land. But our enthusiasm soon overcame 
our fatigue, for we realized that we had reached a point on 
the coast of Greenland, higher than had ever before been 
attained, and were at a place where the most northerly 
land on the globe stretched out before us. Quickly pro- 
ducing the flag of our country, and lashing it to the up- 
standers of the sledge, the Arctic breezes saluted the Stars 
and Stripes. Naturally, we felt an honest pride in our 
achievement, accomplished not without much hard labor 
and suffering, but mingled with this pride was a feeling 
of awe that the unknown always inspires. Beyond us all 
was new. What was it? Would we succeed in solving 
its mysteries? These were the thoughts that came upper- 
most in our minds. 

Just above the ice foot we built a cairn in which we placed 
rations for our return to Cape Bryant, such of our dead 
weights as were not deemed absolutely essential, and a 
record of our journey to that point. Lockwood and myself 
then ascended the high rocky promontory forming the south- 
western extremity of Cape Britannia and were about two 
hours in reaching the summit, where the altitude as indi- 
cated bv our barometer was about 2000 feet. Here we 
obtained an extensive view in all directions, repaying us a 
thousand times for our toilsome ascent. We saw that the 
trend of the coast was to the northeast, a dark promontory 



THE WHITE WORLD 

fifteen miles away limiting the view in that direction. Be- 
tween it and our position were three sharp, angular capes 
of striking appearance and apparently separated by deep 
fiords extending to the southeast. 

In the interior, which was subsequently named by Lieu- 
tenant Greely " Nares Land," could be seen to the extreme 
range of our vision a confused mass of snow-covered peaks 
towering high above our position on Britannia, and from 
among this frozen chaos an occasional glacier of moderate 
size struggling toward the sea. To the north and west 
nothing but the polar pack was visible. At this time a 
high wind, laden with the icy breath of countless winters, 
came sweeping over us and cut short our observations. 
Constructing a small cairn in which Lockwood deposited a 
record, we then returned to the tent we had pitched on the 
ice foot. 

During our absence, Frederik had shot a ptarmigan, and 
we found fresh traces of foxes, hares, and lemming. Indi- 
cations that musk oxen had at one time visited these regions 
were also observed. After obtaining a much-needed rest 
we again set our faces toward the north and with buoyant 
hearts advanced into the new regions. 

In passing from one point to another along that unex- 
plored coast, both Lockwood and myself felt an exhilaration 
we had never before experienced. When rounding a cape 
we were possessed with feverish impatience to see what was 
beyond, and in our own excitement could hardly understand 
Frederik's lack of enthusiasm. While he was an excellent 
man in every respect, and thoroughly devoted to our in- 
terests, he utterly failed to comprehend our object in trav- 
eling about in those inhospitable regions, subjecting our- 
selves to almost incredible hardships, when we could have 
remained at home where there were warmth, shelter, and 
an abundance of food. 

As we pushed northward the temperature gradually rose, 
owing to the advancing season, and when the highest point 
was reached our thermometer registered +14. This high 
temperature soon denuded the dark surface of the cliffs of 
their winter's covering and the snow on the ice foot became 
damp and soft, thus rendering traveling much more diffi- 
cult; but on the other hand the absence of the keen cold 

70 



FARTHEST NORTH WITH GREELY 

enabled us to sleep in our bags in comparative comfort 
and the patient cook prepared his meals without frosting 
his fingers while handling the metal equipment of his out- 
fit. During these days we sighed with regret for our 
snow-shoes which, to reduce our constant weight, had been 
left behind at Cape Britannia. 

When the hour for camping arrived, we selected the 
deepest snow we could find, usually a heavy drift in the lee 
of a floe-berg or other sheltered place, and here the tent 
was pitched. A rubber cloth was spread for the floor of 
the tent and on this the sleeping-bags were laid. The double 
bag occupied by Lockwood and myself was placed on one 
side of the tent and Frederik's single bag on the other. 
Frederik in the meantime was chopping the pemmican for 
the dogs while one of us stood, whip in hand, to- guard him 
from the ravenous brutes. When the food had been broken 
into small pieces it was scattered on the ground and the 
dogs came on with a rush — each snarling, grabbing and 
gobbling with all his might, and in the frenzy of his greedi- 
ness bolting pieces whole. In the twinkling of an eye the 
feast disappeared and then Ritenbenk, provoked because he 
had not secured sufficient to gratify his hunger, would 
usually exercise his prerogative as ruler, and shake two or 
three of the other dogs by way of expressing his disgust. 
A few minutes later mournful howls would be heard from 
the dogs which, having bolted the frozen food, were paying 
the penalty of their indiscretion. The animals were fed only 
once each day at the conclusion of the journey, it having 
been found by experience that dogs work better when they 
have their meal in anticipation than when they have it in 
their stomachs. On the outward trip the allowance for each 
dog was a pound and a quarter of pemmican each day and 
on the return journey — the load being lighter — one pound 
was given, and although at the meal hour the animals ap- 
peared to be nearly famished, the quantity of food was 
ample, for on our return from this trip, lasting sixty days, 
the aggregate weight of the team was seven or eight pounds 
more than when we started. 

While the dogs were being attended to, the cook — who 
was either Lockwood or myself — would search about for 
a fresh floe-berg and chop sufficient ice to fill our cooking 

7i 



THE WHITE WORLD 

vessels, after which the alcohol lamp would be brought out, 
placed on the floor between the sleeping-bags, and lighted. 
The tent was tightly closed to keep out the wind and drift, 
and while the cook was engaged with the meals the others 
were preparing to retire to the depths of their respective 
bags. The foot-gear worn during the day was removed, 
dry stockings were substituted, and over these was drawn 
a pair of warm dog-skin boots, the hair being turned in- 
ward. When the meal was ready the others sat up in their 
bags, receiving from the cook their portions in tin plates 
and tin cups. The menu was simple, consisting of a stew 
of some sort, hard bread, and tea or chocolate. Coffee was 
considered objectionable, and was therefore never used by 
us while on long sledge journeys. As a base for our stews 
we had the choice of fresh musk ox beef; boiled, roast or 
corned canned beef, bacon, sausage, pemmican, baked beans, 
etc., which gave us a fair variety. The meal finished, the 
cook prepared the food for breakfast and filled the cooking 
vessels with ice, brought into the tent all food not in tins, 
that it might not be stolen by the dogs while we were sleep- 
ing, and then he was ready to join the others in their bags. 
In the morning the cook got up first, and with chattering 
teeth and much shivering cooked the breakfast and served 
it to the others sitting up in their sleeping-bags. Dressing 
hurriedly, the equipment was packed and securely lashed 
on the sledge and we were ready for another day's march. 

Frederik, the Eskimo dog-driver, was a faithful, con- 
scientious and hard-working fellow, and from daily associa- 
tion we grew very fond of him. He worked incessantly 
during the march, urging on his tired team with voice and 
whip, and at night slept soundly, undisturbed by the creak- 
ing of the tent or the howling of the dogs. But we were 
not happy in the companionship of this man, for he had a 
snore, a deep bass, awful snore such as might rupture do- 
mestic peace or move one to desperate deeds. 

Having no journal to write, Frederik would fall asleep 
immediately after the evening meal, and by the time Lock- 
wood and myself had completed our record for the day and 
were ready to slide down into our sleeping-bag, mournful 
sounds would be issuing from the bag on the opposite side 
of the tent. Of course under such circumstances sleep was 

12 



FARTHEST NORTH WITH GREELY 



impossible, and finally, in self-defence, we were forced to 
adopt a plan which contributed to our own comfort but 
which had the effect of disturbing Frederik's rest. After 
trying in vain to compose ourselves to sleep, one of us 
would reach over and interrupt the objectionable snoring 
by rousing Frederik from his slumbers and then ask him 
in a tone affecting concern for his welfare whether he was 
not cold and if it was possible for us to aid him in any way. 
He always appeared touched and grateful at this solicitude 
and never failed to reply that he was " all right." Before 
he could resume his nocturnal music we would both be 
sleeping soundly. 

Just north of Cape 
Frederick, at the margin 
of the embayed ice, we 
came upon a tidal crack 
about ioo yards in width, 
which, judging from ap- 
pearances, had been open 
all winter, and which 
obliged us to keep on the 
fast ice between it and the 
shore. 

The ice on the northern coast of Greenland did not 
present the same characteristics as that met with farther 
south. The large floes and floe-bergs of the so-called paleo- 
crystic ice, frequently seen along the Grinnell Land coast 
were rarely found north of Cape Britannia. It was evident 
that the embayed ice in the deep fiords, especially in St. 
George Fiord, was the birthplace of the domed paleocrystic 
floes. It had all the external characteristic of the paleo- 
crystic ice and was doubtless formed by the accretion of 
snow which the summer's sun could not entirely melt. 
These floes grow in thickness from year to year, and occa- 
sionally a section is broken from the outer edge, drifts out 
into the polar ocean, and becomes a floe-berg. This fast 
ice extends from cape to cape, its outer limit being marked 
by a fringe of rubble ice, piled high by the pressure of the 
moving pack during the brief summer season. 

We camped at the end of this march just north of Elison 
Island. The next night the traveling was heavy and our 

73 




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progress slow. We saw a great many tracks of foxes, hares, 
and lemming, and also some old tracks which Frederik 
said were those of a bear. Frederik had the good fortune 
to shoot a hare that evening — a valuable addition to our 
scanty larder. 

Rounding Black Cape, we pitched our tent on a point of 
land of which it formed a part. Here we built a cairn in 
which we left two days' provisions for ourselves and dogs 
to be used on our return. Upon again resuming the march 
our progress was greatly retarded during several days by 
a severe storm which finally compelled us to camp for 
sixty hours at Mary Murray Island — a loss of time we 
could ill afford. To make good the time thus lost we were 
forced to do one of two things — reduce our rations or 
sacrifice one of our dogs. We wisely adopted the former 
course. 

On May 13, the storm abated and we prepared to resume 
our advances. A rough reduction of observations obtained 
here placed us in latitude 83 ° 10/ N. The trend of the coast 
was still to the northeast, our view terminating at a bold 
promontory apparently some sixteen miles away. 

Starting from Mary Murray Island we struggled on 
through the deep snow to Hummock Cape, where we were 
delayed by the immense masses of ice pushed up against 
the abrupt face of the rocky headlands. We were com- 
pelled to lower our sledge by ropes from the ice-foot to the 
floe, where we found ourselves in a bewildering tangle of 
rubble ice. In extricating ourselves from the intricacies of 
this ice-pack, we had to cross the tidal track several times. 
These crossings were attended with considerable danger, 
and once we narrowly escaped engulfment by the breaking 
of the thin ice at the margin of the crack. 

On entering Weyprecht Inlet we had an excellent oppor- 
tunity of observing the land on its northern side. Back 
some distance from the inlet we saw a magnificent moun- 
tain (Mount Schley) not less than 4000 feet high, standing 
like a giant among a group of lesser peaks. From the outer 
fringe of mountains the land sloped gradually toward the 
ocean, terminating in a splendid headland (Cape Chris- 
tiansen) at which our journey northward was to end. We 
camped at the northern extremity of this cape, much ex- 
hausted from our long tramp through the deep snow. 

74 



FARTHEST NORTH WITH GREELY 

Owing to the fact that our supply of provisions was 
nearly consumed, Lockwood reluctantly decided that we 
would remain at this point only long enough to make a 
satisfactory determination of our position and then turn 
homeward. From our observation at Mary Murray Island 
we knew that we had attained a higher northern latitude 
than had ever before been reached, and that we stood on 
land farther north than any that had been known or sup- 
posed to exist. We unfurled the glorious Stars and Stripes 
to the exhilarating northern breeze, with a feeling of ex- 
altation impossible to describe. We shook each other's 
hands from very joy, and even hugged the astonished 
Eskimo, who wondered what it was all about. 

We had struggled hard for many days through storm 
and blinding drifts which gave us only momentary glimpses 
of the outlines of the rugged coast along which we groped 
our way, and we naturally felt elated over the satisfactory 
issue of our endeavors. For three centuries our English 
brothers, by dint of energy, unflinching perseverance, and 
dauntless courage had held the supremacy of the farthest 
north over all others, and we could hardlv realize that the 
honor had now been transferred to our little party. 

We received material assistance from the maps and 
sketches made by Lieutenant Beaumont, R. N., of the 
Greenland coast as far north as Cape Britannia, and these 
sketches were the more appreciated, knowing as we did 
the distressing circumstances under which they had been 
prepared. 

Soon after camping, the storm recommenced and we re- 
tired to our tent to work up our notes and to obtain some 
much-needed rest. The wind blew all night in fitful gusts, 
threatening at times to tear our tent from its fastenings. 
The next morning we were surprised at a visit from a snow- 
bunting, which came fluttering about the tent in the driving 
storm, uttering its cheerful chirp and then flying away to 
the cliff above us. . 

During breakfast the wind subsided and snow began 
falling in great flakes. Soon, however, the storm ceased, 
the sky cleared, and the sun came out brightly, but unfor- 
tunately too late for a meridian altitude. 

Had we not been detained by the storm at Mary Murray 

75 



THE WHITE WORLD 

Island, we could have gone twenty-five or thirty miles 
farther up the coast, and more than likely settled for all 
time the vexed question of the northern extremity of Green- 
land, which has since been solved by the courage and per- 
sistence of Lieutenant Peary. It was believed by some of 
the best authorities on Arctic matters that from Cape Wash- 
ington the coast would be found trending to the southeast, 
in the direction Cape Bismarck, the most northerly known 
land ever attained on the east coast of Greenland. The 
settlement of this important question would have been a 
fitting close to our discoveries. 

We built a cairn on a narrow shelf directly under the 
frowning face of the massive cape, which fronted the north. 
It was constructed on a substantial and large scale, com- 
mensurate with its importance, and in it were placed a 
record of our journey and a minimum thermometer. A 
small collection of rocks and vegetation was then made, 
but it was difficult to obtain good samples, as they had to 
be chopped with a hatchet from the frozen soil. The vege- 
tation, consisting of lichens, grasses, and flowering plants, 
was abundant considering the latitude. Numerous traces, 
all recent, of foxes, lemming, hare, ptarmigan, and snow- 
bunting were observed. 

In my travels over the United States, and especially 
through the unfrequented portion of the Rocky Mountains, 
I had never found a spot so remote or inaccessible that it 
had not previously been visited by the roadside artists who 
had inscribed their gaudy advertisements of Plantation 
Bitters or other nostrum on every conspicuous rock and 
cliff. Here at last I found a place beyond their reach, 
and it seemed almost lonesome not to be greeted by the 
familiar notices; so taking a file from the sledge I walked 
to the cliff and there wrote with the sharp steel point the 
magic characters, " S. T. i860 X." When I informed 
Lockwood of what I had done he laughingly said he was 
convinced that I was in the employ of the firm and that I 
expected to receive payment in bitters for mv work. He 
suggested that an advertisement of soap would have pro- 
duced a more substantial and useful dividend. 

At 2 P. M., May 15, the last necessary observation was 
obtained, and our position was found to be in latitude 

76 



FARTHEST NORTH WITH GREELY 

83 ° 24' N., longitude 40 46' W. We were exceedingly 
fortunate in having such splendid weather for the astro- 
nomical work. Failure to secure reliable observations for 
the determination of position would have rendered the 
result of the expedition vastly less satisfactory, for our 
position could not have been accurately known until some 
more fortunate future explorer should have found our cairn 
and confirmed our discoveries. 

Leaving Frederik in camp to prevent the half-famished 
dogs from eating our equipment, Lockwood and myself 
ascended to the top of the Cape to obtain a more extended 
view of the country, and prompted by sentiment, to again 
unfurl our flag over the new land. The summit, at an 
estimated altitude of about 2600 feet, was a very narrow 
plateau, extending back some distance and gradually slop- 
ing upward to the high ground which terminated in Mount 
Schley. 

The scene was grand and impressive beyond description. 
To the southwest arose the dark outlines of Mary Murray 
Island and to its left and beyond, dimly showing, were two 
of the capes we had rounded in coming up the coast. About 
eight miles to the northeast a point of land (Cape Kane) 
was visible, similar to the one on which we were standing, 
with an intervening fiord, which probably communicates 
with the one to the west, making of this land an island, to 
which Lieutenant Greely subsequently gave the name of 
Lockwood Island, in honor of its discoverer. Still another 
point (Cape Washington), about fifteen miles away, pro- 
jected farther to the north than the intermediate one — the 
two being apparently separated by a fiord. In the distance, 
looking past these two points, we saw a low, blue line, 
stretching away to the northward, but owing to haze in 
that direction it could not with safety be pronounced land, 
though at first it gave us that impression. To our south 
the coast was badly broken by entering fiords and the in- 
terior was the embodiment of icy desolation — a confused 
mass of snow-capped peaks. 

Turning our gaze toward the north, the Polar ocean, a 
vast expanse of snow and broken ice lay before us in all its 
gloomy solitude. Within our horizon of perhaps sixty 
miles, no sign of land or open water could be seen. The 

77 



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ice appeared to be rubble, the absence of large paleocrystic 
floes being particularly noticeable. 

A fog rolled up from the northeast, interrupting our view 
and warning us to descend. Hastily erecting a small cairn 
in which Lockwood placed a tin case containing a record of 
our journey and discoveries, we took a parting look and 
quickly descended to camp. 

Our work was now completed and we turned homeward, 
reaching Fort Conger, June i, having been absent fifty-nine 
days, during which we traveled nearly eleven hundred miles. 

In closing this sketch I cannot refrain from touching 
briefly on the character of Lieutenant Lockwood, the leader 
to the " farthest north," and paying to his memory a tribute 
of my love and admiration. He was a noble fellow, brave, 
true, and steadfast and withal as gentle as a woman. His 
work of exploration was performed unselfishly and without 
hope of reward or favor, and his high aim is attested by 
these words in his journal: " My great wish is to accomplish 
something on the north coast of Greenland that will reflect 
credit on the expedition and on myself." 

How grandly was his wish fulfilled! By his incomparable 
zeal and devotion to duty his brightest dreams of success 
were more than realized, and his geographical work stands 
as an imperishable monument to his memory. 



7R 



POLAR HOSPITALS 



HENRY BIEDERBICK. 

Henry Biederbick was born in Waldeck, 
Germany, Jan., 1859. In 1881 he joined the 
Lady Franklin Bay Arctic Expedition, under 
Lieutenant Greely. Was appointed Hospital 
Steward, and Assistant Naturalist of party. He 
was one of the survivors rescued at Cape Sa- 
bine by Admiral Schley in 1884. 




HENRY BIEDERBICK 




POLAR HOSPITALS 

By HENRY BIEDERBICK 



k URSING the sick is at all times a serious 
problem, but has been brought to such 
a perfection in our hospitals, and at 
our homes also, when professional 
nurses can be employed, that the pati- 
ent suffers as little as possible. This 
is entirely different, however, on an 
Arctic Expedition, and I will give here a few instances 
which occurred during our three years' sojourn in the 
frozen North. 

After landing in Lady Franklin Bay, in latitude 8i° 44' 
north, longitude 64 45' west, a house measuring 65 by 21 
feet in the clear was at once constructed. It had double 
walls, the two being about 15 inches apart, and was built 
so as to give the greatest possible comfort. The interior 
was divided into three rooms, one 16 by 21 feet for the 
officers, another to be occupied by the other members of the 
expedition, 40 by 21 feet, and the kitchen, situated between 
the two, 14 by 8 feet, while the hallway alongside measured 
7 by 8 feet. On the north and south sides, so-called lean- 
tos were made from canvas and tar paper; these were used 
for the storage of supplies, and also served as stopping 
places when going out or coming in from the great outside 
cold. 

This house was our permanent place of abode for the first 
two years of our Arctic stay, and I am glad to say the 
health of the party was such that it was seldom a sick-bed 
had to be used therein; and that in the few instances when 
we had a patient on hand, we were able to make him quite 
comfortable, and attend to his every want. 

83 



THE WHITE WORLD 

Our first patient was Private Henry, who, on a trip to 
Cape Murchison, about twelve miles distant, on September 
7 and 8, 1881, was so exhausted from exertion and cold, 
that he had to be dragged home on the sledge. He soon 
recovered after restoratives had been applied and rest given. 

On the day following, a more serious case presented it- 
self. Dr. Pavy, who had gone north overland with Ser- 
geant Rice, towards Cape Henry, returned to the station 
with the report that he had left Sergeant Rice about ten 
miles north, suffering greatly from rheumatism. Four men 
started at once with a sledge and an improvised stretcher, 
to fetch Rice to the station; but after bringing him as far 
as St. Patrick's Bay, they were too much exhausted to 
carry him up the steep hill there, and more help had to be 
sent for. We succeeded with hard labor in carrying Rice, 
whose suffering was pitiful, to the plateau above, whence 
we dragged him to the house on the sledge. Rice's lower 
extremities were very much inflamed and swollen, as were 
also his wrists and hands. We made him as comfortable 
as possible, and succeeded in having him out of bed on the 
tenth day. 

After that, frostbites were the main affliction, I being 
the one to suffer the most in this respect. Traveling over 
the ice, hauling provisions northward for caches to be 
used in our proposed effort to go north in the following 
spring, we kept too close to the shore, and on November 7, 
when an exceptionally high spring tide broke through the 
crevices which divided the land from the ice, I got my 
feet very wet, and as the temperature was about 40 below 
zero, it did not take long for them to freeze. We camped 
at once and changed foot gear, but my left foot was frozen 
quite severely. Lieutenant Lockwood and Sergeant Brain- 
ard alternately rubbed my feet until circulation was restored, 
and then the pain commenced. I shall certainly never forget 
that night, in which I shared with Lieutenant Lockwood a 
single sleeping-bag, suffering all the tortures imaginable. 
My comrades had to drag me to our home station on the 
sledge, and arriving there, Dr. Pavy at first feared that it 
would be necessary to amputate at least the large toe on 
one foot; but it healed very nicely, although it was sore 

84 



POLAR HOSPITALS 

almost through the whole of that winter in the Arctic. 
Several of the others suffered from slight frostbites on 
that same occasion, and many times did this occur after- 
wards, but none was so serious as to cause the loss of even 
a finger or a toe, except the sad case of poor Sergeant 
Elison, of which I shall speak at length hereafter. 

During our sojourn in the north two simple fractures 
occurred; Sergeant Gardiner broke his left leg by slipping 
on the ice and falling against some projecting point, while 
endeavoring to read the tide-gauge. This occurred Novem- 
ber 30, 1 88 1, but by Christmas of the same year he walked 
round again, with the aid of a strong cane. On December 
13, Sergeant Rice was unfortunate enough to break his 
left sho'Ulder bone, by falling against a sharp piece of 
hummocky ice, while out in the dark, searching for our 
little Eskimo Jens, who had in a moment of depression of 
spirits taken it into his head to wander off in search of a 
happier hunting ground. He was overtaken by Dr. Pavy 
and a party about nine miles distant from the house. 
Rice's shoulder mended rapidly and neither he nor Gar- 
diner ever suffered thereafter in consequence of their in- 
juries. 

It is strange that in that extreme cold climate, no so- 
called colds, such as catarrh or bronchitis, were ever 
incurred by any of us. This is the more remarkable, if 
one considers the rapid changes of temperature which we 
met when going out of a comparatively warm room into 
the outer air where it was sixty degrees below zero, or 
even lower; or when coming in after spending a few hours 
inhaling those icy blasts. 

A few light cases of tonsilitis occurred, but they were 
of so trifling a nature, that they hardly deserve mention. 
Private Bender had suffered previously from an affection 
of the lungs, and often complained of pains in his left 
side, but recovered entirely, and did some good service 
afterward. 

The spirits of the party often became somewhat depressed 
during those dreadful long Arctic nights. When the face 
of old father Sol left us on the 16th of October, not to be 
seen again until the 1st of March, there was a general 
feeling of lassitude, loss of appetite and sleepiness in some 

85 



THE WHITE WORLD 

instances, wakefulness in others, and anaemic condition 
generally. Our commanding officer was unsparing in his 
efforts to entertain, and the brighter members of the party 
would at all times try to amuse and cheer the downcast 
ones. With the return of the sun, all this was changed. 
The appetite increased, cheerfulness of spirit took the place 
of gloom, and the body became stronger as the mind grew 
brighter. 

During those dark days it was necessary to administer 
tonics. Iron in its various forms was found to do the 
most good. Besides the rheumatism of Rice, previously 
spoken of, several other cases occurred, the pains in each 
instance being very severe. Lieutenant Greely, Sergeant 
Linn, Connell and Henry suffered at different times, but 
the most serious attack was that experienced by myself, 
and I have never recovered from it. On leaving Fort 
Conger, July 9, 1883, I was able to hobble down to the 
boat with the aid of a stout stick, but notwithstanding all 
the discomforts suffered on our retreat, being wet to the 
skin most of the time, sleeping either on the oars in the 
boat, or on the ice itself, I improved daily, and after the 
fourth day was able to work as hard as any of the others. 

Although we had labored hard during the two years, and 
suffered many discomforts, the worst was to come after 
abandoning our home station, in order to meet a ship, 
which we thought must be somewhere south of us, trying to 
reach us. It had been promised that one should be sent, 
and the retreat was commenced by orders received at the 
time of our start northward. We set out from Fort Conger 
with a steam launch, three small boats and a little dingey, 
taking all our records, the most valuable and necessary 
instruments, about sixty days' provisions, and our sleeping- 
bags. Each man was allowed eight pounds for his clothing 
and personal belongings, the four officers having an extra 
eight pounds each. At first we were towed by the launch 
the greater part of the time, but we experienced several 
dangerous nips, and had to be watchful, keeping away 
from threatening floes. On several occasions we had to 
throw our belongings on the ice and pull the boats up 
after us to keep them from being crushed. 

On August 26, we were beset in the ice, and on Sep- 

86 



POLAR HOSPITALS 

tember 10. we abandoned the steam-launch and one of the 
boats; on September 12, another boat was abandoned, and 
we tried to reach Cape Sabine over the ice, carrying our 
last boat on the sledge. The little dingey having been 
previously cut up and used for fuel. But the next day a 
strong wind broke up the ice, and we drifted into Smith 
Sound on the floe upon which we were encamped. We 




From a painting by Albert Operti 
ESKIMO SUMMER HOME 



were now on short rations, but supplemented this some- 
what by the addition of seal meat and blubber from a few 
seals which we were fortunate enough to kill. The water 
obtained from the paleocrystic floe was very brackish, and 
as our salt was all gone, we used seawater for stewing our 
seal meat. This, together with the fatty seal-blubber, 
caused a great deal of diarrhoea, and the little opium we 
had taken along was fast nearing exhaustion. 

We drifted about on this floe, sometimes north, some- 
times south, until September 29, when a providential high 

87 



THE WHITE WORLD 

wind blew us into Baird Inlet, where we were stranded 
between two grounded icebergs. We ferried ourselves 
across the lanes of open water to the nearest land, about 
fifteen miles south of Cape Sabine. At this time we were 
all in fair health, but very weak. Rice and our little Eskimo, 
Jens, were sent to Cape Sabine to ascertain what was left 
of the English cache, and also to see what records, if any, 
had been left there by possible parties of succor, who 
might have made a landing. They returned with the sad 
tidings, that the Proteus, under command of Lieutenant 
Garlington, had sunk on July 23, having been crushed by 
the ice. The Lieutenant had left a record saying that all 
hands were saved from the Proteus, that they would cross 
over to Greenland and try to open communication, that the 
S. S. Yantic was on her way to Littleton Island, but would 
not enter the ice, and that a Swedish steamer would try to 
reach Cape York. He would at once attempt to com- 
municate therewith, and nothing in the power of man would 
be left undone to send us succor. Unfortunately nothing 
of the kind happened, and our starvation camp at Cape 
Sabine was the consequence. Lieutenant Garlington had 
left a cache of about five hundred rations of bread, some tea 
and canned goods; there was also a cache of 240 rations 
left by Mr. Beebe in 1882, and part of the 240 rations 
cached by Sir George Nares in 1884, was still in good 
condition. Lieutenant Greely decided it would be best 
to move our few belongings near to these caches, and a 
start was made at once. 

We built a hut out of loose stones and ice, using water 
as cement, which froze all parts solidly together. The 
walls were about 3^ feet high, the roof being formed by 
our whale-boat; its length was 25 feet and width 17 feet. 
Into this small hole our entire party crowded, spreading 
our sleeping-bags on the floor with heads to the walls, and 
feet toward the center, where a small passageway ran 
through the length of the hut. This passage was used to 
do O'Ur little bit of cooking, and for ingress and egress. 

Our rations were cut down to the smallest possible allow- 
ance that would sustain life, and as soon as the little lake 
near which we were encamped froze solid to the bottom, 
we were put on a short amount of fluid also, consisting of 



POLAR HOSPITALS 

two-thirds of a cupful of weak tea twice a day. The tea 
ran out near the end of the winter, and we used to pick 
up the leaves already used at the commencement of our 
stay, and use them over again. Later still, we were glad 
to get even a cupful of luke-warm water. Many of my 
comrades suffered greatly from thirst, and in order to 
supplement the scant allowance of water, we put finely 
chopped ice into little rubber field bags, of which we 
carried a number, placed them under our clothes, later near 
to the skin, and the heat, of which there was so little, of 
our emaciated bodies would melt a few drops of the pre- 
cious fluid. 

The sufferings we poor mortals endured during that 
fearful Arctic winter — there is no spring — can hardly be 
described; at least I am unable, and shall not attempt to 
do so, but will try to convey, in a measure, a little concep- 
tion of the only relief Dr. Pavy and myself were able to 
give to our sick and helpless brethren. The insufficient 
nourishment made itself felt not only in the body, but also 
in the mind, and great were the efforts of Lieutenant 
Greely and the stronger minded members of our little 
party to divert the thoughts of the failing ones, and to 
amuse them as much as possible. Of medicine we had 
but little, and had we given some to every person asking 
for it, we would not have had an iota left after the first two 
weeks. We managed to get along, however, as best we 
could, only wishing for some of the most necessary drugs, 
such as strychnine and hyosciamus, to strengthen the 
actions of the weak and depressed hearts, and for cathar- 
tics, of which there was great need. Naturally, the small 
quantities of food were partly responsible for our forlorn 
condition. While lying in our sleeping-bags, constantly 
tortured by a gnawing hunger, wounds and other affections 
would heal very slowly. Gardiner suffered during all that 
dark night from the effects of a felon, the affected finger 
refusing to heal, although we used the few remedies at our 
command as unsparingly in his case, as we could not later 
in any other. 

The most serious blow came to us in the early part of 
November, when a party of four men started out for Cape 
Isabella to fetch the 144 lbs. of meat, cached there by the 

89 



THE WHITE WORLD 

British Expedition under Sir George Nares, but which 
was forced to return without accomplishing their errand. 
They found the cache all right, and proceeded " home- 
ward " therewith, but on the road Sergeant Elison became 
so badly frostbitten, that they were forced to abandon the 
meat on a large paleocrystic floe, put Elison into the sledge, 
and bring him to our miserable quarters. The little party 
came in very much exhausted, and the condition of Elison 
was pitiable in the extreme. His face, hands and feet were 
fearfully frozen, and his agony was heartrending. We did 
everything in our power to alleviate his pains, and the com- 
manding officer gave up his mattress — one of the two found 
in the cache of the Proteus wreck and which were always 
used by the sick — to make him more comfortable. I sat, 
or rather cowered, night after night (when I say night I 
mean the time corresponding to that part during which it 
is night in temperate zones) watching and comforting the 
poor fellow, and ministering to his wants to the best of 
my poor ability. Dr. Pavy would relieve me during the 
rest of the twenty-four hours, and every man in the com- 
mand would at all times aid us in any little office required. 
We had hopes at first, that some of the frozen parts 
were only superficially bitten, but our illusions were soon 
destroyed. Both feet slowly sloughed off at the ankle 
joints, and his fingers dried up and became mummified. We 
could entertain no thought of an operation, as any attempt 
to amputate would have caused a loss of blood which, in 
the weakened state of the patient, would have had serious 
consequences. We were obliged, therefore, to confine our- 
selves to keeping the wounds clean, and to effect that pur- 
pose I dressed them daily. This was not an easy matter, 
since water was such a very scarce commodity, and had to 
be used most sparingly. At first I used a little borated 
cotton and the few bandages we had taken along for 
emergencies, together with the one pound can of carbo- 
lated vaseline, and the little carbolic acid at my command. 
All this was employed as judiciously as possible, but as 
there were other small frostbites among my comrades, be- 
sides several sore fingers which needed dressing, my supply 
became exhausted very quickly. The commanding officer 
then set apart all the lard, of which we had found a couple 

90 



POLAR HOSPITALS 

of cans in the wreck cache, for medicinal purposes. This 
I mixed with the little salicylic acid which we had, and 
with the mixture I attended to the injuries. 

One of the serious questions confronting us was, how 
to get the material to dress the wounds. We had found a 
number of shirts in the clefts of the rocks near Cape Sabine, 
left there by Lieutenant Garlington's party; these shirts had 
been wet and were frozen to a solid mass of ice. I beat off 
the ice as much as possible, then placed them underneath 
my clothes, and thus dried them for use. The aggravated 
state of my rheumatic troubles to-day is probably a direct 
result of this necessary action. 

While in this precarious state, weakened in body and 
mind with but a couple of hours each day when we could 
afford the faintest excuse for light, by burning a little seal- 
blubber in a lamp, improvised out of a tomato can, with 
a piece of an old woolen sock or undershirt for a wick; 
or by burning a candle manufactured out of stearine found 
in the British cache, with a piece of old rope as wick, 
there would occur discussions which seemed full of ani- 
mosity, and which have since been described as " bicker- 
ings " and " fights." I beg the reader to imagine himself 
in a similar position, if such imagination is possible, and he 
will readily understand that they were only outbursts of a 
weakened, tortured mind. In reality every man of our 
forsaken little party helped his weaker neighbor at all points, 
where such aid was possible. The great efforts that were 
made to improve our poor larder cannot be realized by the 
world. Our hunters, Sergeant Long and the Eskimo, 
aided later by Sergeant Frederick, certainly worked won- 
ders, and had it not been for the providential appearance of 
a bear, and its fortunate killing by Long, none of us would 
have lived to tell the tale. 

Our dear comrade Brainard worked incessantly for the 
good of all, dividing the scanty food with equity, going out 
during the coldest and stormiest weather to catch so-called 
shrimps, in reality nothing but sea-lice, which helped greatly 
to fill that aching void in our gnawing stomachs. 

Rice, together with Frederick, made another effort to 
secure that much-coveted meat from Cape Isabella, aban- 
doned on the first attempt, but cruel fate carried away our 

93 



THE WHITE WORLD 

faithful Rice, dooming him to perish from cold and exhaus- 
tion. Good little Frederick covered his remains with snow 
and ice, and alone made his way back through the dreary, 
lightless ice-waste. 

The stronger would always cheer and support the weak. 
Dear, good Israel, although bodily very weak, would in- 
variably have a cheery word for his neighbor, who might 
be physically a little stronger, but over whose mind dark 
forebodings of approaching end would cast a gloom. Lieu- 
tenant Lockwood, proud of his achievement of having 
reached the farthest north, would mournfully talk of his 
loved ones at home, and for an hour at a time would recount 
the good things to eat in our own " God's Country," as we 
used to speak of it. 

The first appearance of the grim visitor was on January 
18, when Sergeant Cross, our engineer, died. Cross was 
quite weak for some time, and showed some scorbutic signs, 
the only really pronounced ones during our stay. Cross 
was physically the weakest man among us, and having 
used liquor and tobacco in rather large quantities during 
the greater part of his life, his constitution was weakened. 
This first death had naturally a somewhat depressing in- 
fluence, but Lieutenant Greely made some judicious re- 
marks and announced a slight increase in the ration, which 
was, however, cut down again in a day or two, and one 
man would try to show his neighbor how little he thought 
of this sad affair, and point out the few chances of life we 
still had. So by cheering one another, we were really in 
a better state of mind that evening than before. 

After this, although all were very weak, no death took 
place until April 5, when Frederik J. Christiansen, one of 
our faithful, hard-working Eskimo dog-drivers died of 
starvation. After that we had four other deaths in rapid 
succession, when the bear, sent so opportunely, gave us a 
number of meals of fresh meat, and for a time stayed the 
ravages hunger had created. It must not be imagined that 
we set to feasting at once, since we only allowed ourselves 
eight ounces of the bear meat per day, and for this the 
very little other meat yet in our possession was withdrawn. 
The fresh meat, however, with the consequent improvement 
in the mind, renewed hope for game, and through that, 

94 



POLAR HOSPITALS 

worked wonders for a short time, when life again began to 
ebb away, and the man with the scythe commenced anew 
to reap his harvest. 

Most of my comrades during those days of misery died 
there, and the majority of them died supported by my own 
weak arm, since in their last moment I would always, as 
was my duty, try to ease them, and help them as much as 
was in my poor power. A stronger will than ours decreed 
that nineteen out of the twenty-five strong, healthy men, 
who had dared everything in the interest of science, should 
pay the cost with their lives, and that only six of us should 
see the land of our love once more, kiss our dear ones, 
and be greeted by a hearty welcome from our friends. We 
returned, but no one of us the same healthy, vigorous 
man he had been on leaving, all being more or less invalided. 
Death, at most times so much dreaded, was really a friendly 
visitor to some of the good men called away, since it 
brought peace and release from all pain. 

Our final days at Cape Sabine were spent in misery and 
suffering. The last food had been consumed, and in our 
necessity we were forced to eat our sealskin clothing and 
boots. Fortunately, it was now continuous day, and warm 
enough to get fresh water out of little pools, made by the 
slowly melting snow. We also were able to crawl about 
adjacent rocks, and gather lichens (tripe de roche), the 
nutritive value of which may be questioned, but they aided 
to fill up. As part of the ground was free from snow, we 
could gather the roots of saxifrage, which we used for fuel, 
and which would, by constantly blowing on them, give 
quite a little heat, enough to singe the hair off our fur 
clothing, and partly roast it so that it could be ground with 
the teeth. It would also suffice to heat water to almost the 
boiling point, and in this we would parboil parts of our 
skin-boots, so as to permit of their mastication. All this 
was very poor stuff on which to feed the sick, but since 
it was all we had, we could do no better, and our good 
Elison lived through it all, getting the lion's share to the 
last. Although without feet, and practically without hands, 
his face greatly disfigured by scars caused by frostbite, yet 
he was otherwise physically the strongest. As it seemed 
that he might survive us all, after our last pair of boots 

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THE WHITE WORLD 

and our last pieces of fur had been divided, his share was 
placed next to his sleeping-bag, and a spoon was fastened 
to his right hand with strips of clothing, so that he might 
prolong his life if possible. Strange to say, that, although 
Elison had been, since the early part of November, prac- 
tically lying on his back all the time (he was unable to 
turn over alone), without a change of underclothing or a 
wash, his body was yet clean and only during the last few 
days did any signs of bed-sores appear. 

The deaths from starvation seemed to be without suffer- 
ing during the last moments, and all, save probably two, 
lost consciousness, hours before breathing their last. The 
death of Gardiner was especially touching, as he held in 
his hands a little tin-type picture of his dear old mother, and 
one of his young wife to whom he had been wedded only 
shortly prior to joining the Expedition, and would fervently 
gaze upon them. His last words were: " Mother, wife," as 
if he were bidding them farewell. Lieutenant Kissling- 
bury became unconscious one day about 9 A. M., but seemed 
to awake from his lethargy about 3 P. M., when he asked 
for water, and feeling his end to be near, he died singing 
the Doxology. The last death to occur at our starvation 
camp was that of Private Schneider, who died on June 18, 
just four days before our rescue. 

On June 20, a heavy wind sprang up and increased in 
velocity on June 21 and June 22, keeping us in the tent. 
To our misfortune the tent blew down on us in the small 
hours of June 22, and we lay helplessly pinned under it, 
patiently awaiting the end. In the evening our poor hearts 
were gladdened, and our pulses forced to throb faster and 
stronger again, by the sound of a steam whistle, faintly, 
but distinctly heard in the distance. Brainard and Long 
slept in an addition to the tent on its south side, and they 
being able to move, went out to reconnoitre. Brainard 
returned shortly, saying: "There is nothing to be seen; it 
must have been the wind blowing over an empty tin can." 

While discussing the pros and cons of a ship being near, 
and while I was busying myself with Connell, who was 
semi-conscious, we heard shouts from outside. In a few 
seconds our rescuers, who had been gallantly led by that 
hero of heroes, Commander, now Admiral, W. S. Schley, 

96 



POLAR HOSPITALS 

were pulling at the tent, but, not being able to get in, a 
knife did the work in an instant, and through the opening 
thus made, Lieutenant J. C. Colwell, U. S. Navy, and 
Captain J. W. Norman, the ice pilot, thrust forth their 
hands. In one of these I spied a few biscuits, or hard-tack, 
which I ravenously grasped, and passed on to my com- 
rades, reaching for more ; but Lieutenant Colwell was care- 
ful and permitted us to have but little until the arrival of 
the surgeons, Drs. Green and Ames, through whose skill 
and combined efforts we were soon so far restored as to 
permit of our removal to the vessels, U. S. S. " Thetis " 
and " Bear," where we were most tenderly cared for, and 
where we soon gathered new strength and fresh interest in 
life. 

Poor crippled Elison was still alive, and most tenderly 
cared for, but as his feet and fingers had sloughed off by 
nature's own work, the wounds became inflamed. As soon 
as stronger food caused his blood to flow more rapidly 
through his body, an amputation of the affected limbs had 
to be resorted to, which was successfully accomplished; but 
there was not enough strength left in him to withstand the 
shock; he died, July 8, on board the " Bear," in Godhavn 
Harbor, Disco Island, Greenland, after having patiently 
suffered during eight months such torture as few persons 
ever suffered before. 

It was not until we had been for some little time aboard 
the relief ships that we were sufficiently recovered to take 
a real interest in the details which led to our timely res- 
cue. I have frequently been asked the question as to 
what our feelings were when we knew we were saved. I 
do not believe that, at that moment, there was much feeling 
in any one of us ; and this can be the more readily appreci- 
ated when it is understood that perhaps forty-eight hours 
longer would have been too late for the rescuing party to 
find one man alive. We were dazed, stupefied, dying of 
hunger and weakness, and, expecting only death, were 
patiently awaiting its approach. The sudden and unex- 
pected arrival of those who were to give life back to us 
came as a flash of lightning from a clear sky. None of us 
was enabled to realize the exact nature of events trans- 
piring about us; we were too weary to feel or show emo- 
tion, and the dread of death was long since passed. 

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THE WHITE WORLD 

But when, having gained something of our strength 
through tender care and proper nourishment, we realized 
how opportune had been the coming of our rescuers, we 
listened eagerly to the recital of the history of the relief 
expedition, from its setting forth till its arrival at Cape 
Sabine. We looked forward too, to our home coming, 
and, in the joy which filled our hearts when we stepped 
once more upon the land we loved, I think much of our 
long period of suffering was forgotten. 




98 



AN ARCTIC BEAR HUNT 



L.ofC. 



FRANCIS LONG. 

Francis Long was born in Wurtemberg, Ger- 
many, Jan., 1852. In 1881 joined the Lady 
Franklin Bay Arctic Expedition under Lieuten- 
ant Greely. Was appointed the hunter of the 
expedition. Mr. Long was one of the sur- 
vivors rescued at Cape Sabine in 1884. In 1901 
was a member of the Baldwin-Ziegler Polar Ex- 
pedition. 




FRANCIS LONG 




AN ARCTIC BEAR HUNT 

By FRANCIS LONG 




\HRIMPS, bacon and sealskin stew, all in 
small quantities, had been our bill-of-fare 
for nearly a month; then we found there 
was not a full round of rations left. 
More than half of the men in camp were 
incapable of work, but that mattered little, 
for there was scarcely more to do than one or two could 
easily take care of. We were constantly drowsy from the 
steady cold, but could take but little sleep at a time; two 
hours was all. Sleep was sweet, but in that lay our greatest 
danger, save when it was found that our supply of the 
shrimps and fresh sealskin was exhausted; then starvation 
as well as death from over-sleep stared us in the face. So 
it was that we took turns in keeping guard, that one might 
be always awake and arouse the others at the end of every 

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THE WHITE WORLD 

two hours. When we saw almost certain death from 
starvation ahead of us, it became the general thought that 
perhaps, after all, it would be better to go to sleep together 
and end it painlessly, unconscious of the bitter cold and 
the gnawing pangs of hunger. 

The camp was well stocked with guns, ammunition and 
cooking utensils; I had always believed that the frozen 
North abounded in certain game; that there were fish in the 
open water, and seals and polar bears in plenty. But I 
had not reckoned rightly; had we been cast away on a raft 
in mid-ocean we could scarcely have been more cut off 
from all chance of obtaining fresh provision. There was 
no game, though our rifles stood loaded; no fish, though 
many weary hours we spent with lines dangling in the 
water; no living thing save ourselves, only stretches of 
ice and snow, the bitter cold and the solitude of the grave. 

This was the situation, and sometimes we gave up to 
despair — I perhaps, more keenly, for I was the hunter of 
the camp, and while the others remained behind, hoping 
against hope, I traveled back and forth over the ice, praying 
that some live thing might come within reach of my gun. 
Day after day I dragged myself homeward, but always with 
the same answer to my companions' anxious looks: 
" Nothing, not even a track in the snozv! " And so, day after 
day, until only twenty-four hours stood between us and 
starvation. 

That day, feeling that the task was useless, I had set 
out with my gun across the ice and gone almost as far as 
my strength would permit, when I chanced to come upon 
a wide stretch of snow. More from force of habit than 
through hope of being rewarded, I looked carefully across 
the level field of white. Then my heart jumped so that I 
thought it would tear loose from its fastenings; right in 
front of me, showing as plainly as a map marked on the 
palm of one's hand, were the tracks of a bear! 

The sight of that broad imprint upon the snow gave me 
new strength. I think I forgot how cold it was, that my 
knees were ready to give way under me, and that my 
fingers were so numb I could scarcely hold my rifle. If I 
shot a bear we were saved from the terror which stared 
us in the face; I could almost hear i:he cheers of my com- 
rades and their fervent "Thank God!" 

104 



AN ARCTIC BEAR HUNT 

It seemed that for hours I dragged myself over the ice 
and snow, trembling through fear that the tracks might 
disappear; then my strength left me and I knew that I 
must return to the camp. What use to come upon the 
bear when I could not raise my gun, or must lie down 
with no one to wake me when the two hours had passed? 

It was late in the afternoon when I got back to camp 
and that time I had another answer to the questioning 
looks. I had just gone over, for the tenth time, my story 
of having discovered the tracks, when one of the men 
exclaimed suddenly: 

" Look! there is Brainard coming down Cemetery Ridge; 
I didn't know it was in any of us to run so fast." 

Sure enough, there was Brainard, who had gone to the 
shrimping grounds, coming down the ridge as fast as his 
weak legs would carry him; he fell once and rolled over 
on the ice, but was up again and began shouting to us. 
His voice was so weak we could not catch his words, and 
when he reached the camp he was utterly exhausted. 

"What is it, Sergeant? What have you seen?" asked 
Lieutenant Greely. 

"Bear! bear!" answered Brainard in a choking voice, 
and made a feeble effort to rise. I was bending over him 
by this time with my rifle already in my hand. 

" Where, Sergeant; where is the bear? " I cried, my nerves 
tingling and my body trembling with excitement. 

"There!" answered Brainard, and he pointed to the 
ridge. "He was close behind me; he was following." 

I was off toward the ridge in an instant. I had tracked 
the bear during the greater part of the afternoon but with- 
out success; now Bruin was walking right into camp and 
I had no idea of neglecting so glorious an opportunity. 

From the top of the ridge I could see nothing of the 
bear. He had evidentlv been further behind than Brainard 
thought and had not followed him to camp. He was some- 
where out there on the glittering ice, perhaps hesitating 
whether to examine us more closely, perhaps loping off 
for new fields and forever beyond our reach. 

I hastened down to the camp to find that some of the 
men, the weakest of the party, were for arming themselves 
and spreading over the icefield and among the icebergs. 



THE WHITE WORLD 

To this Lieutenant Greely was opposed; it would be the 
height of folly. Some of the men could have gone no 
further than the top of the ridge, and hardly one could hold 
a rifle steady enough to hit the bear even if they came up 
with him. Then the excited fellows turned to me; I was 
the hunter of the party and I must get the bear. 

It did not require the appealing looks of the famished 
men about me to urge me to my utmost efforts. I resolved 
to get the bear did I travel over the entire stretch of ice- 
field; nothing should stop me but the open water or death 
from sheer exhaustion. One thing was certain; the bear 
was in our neighborhood, for Brainard had seen him, and 
unless frightened he would not retreat too far from the 
shrimping ground. My plan of action was quickly formed; 
the surest, I thought, which promised success. Bidding 
Jens, the Eskimo, follow me, I started up the ridge again, 
for in that direction Brainard had seen the bear. 

My hopes lent me strength, but my feet seemed like 
lead as I climbed the steep ascent. I neared the top, with 
the camp behind and my anxious companions looking after 
me, every hope centered and fixed on the rifle I carried in 
my hand. I slipped on the hard ground, recovered myself 
and gained the summit of the ridge; three hundred yards 
away, an ice-covered rock stood out against the horizon, 
and from around a corner of this rock protruded a long 
white nose — it was the Polar bear. 

At the same instant the animal caught sight of me, 
backed away and went lumbering over the ice in the direc- 
tion of the open water. 

" Jens," said I hastily, " take the course to the left and 
go around the ridge; keep well to the west so as ito head 
her off from the water, I will take care of the east." 

The faithful fellow understood the plan and set out at 

once, while I crawled over the rocks and saw the bear a 

long way off still on the run. Once or twice he looked 

back and then, as though satisfied that he was pursued, 

continued his flight. Keeping off to the right I made as 

good time as possible, crawling, sliding up and down the 

icy slopes, feverish with fear lest the bear reach the water 

first. It seemed as though every possible obstruction lay 

in my way and I could see the Eskimo was having as hard 

a time of it. 

106 



AN ARCTIC BEAR HUNT 

Looking back it seems incredible, but I actually went 
ten miles in the circle followed to head off the bear. I 
knew that when he got over his fright he would stop run- 
ning, and it was of the most vital importance to keep well 
out of sight. Of those ten miles little was covered on the 
run; most of it was gained by crawling, two and a half 
hours of stumbling, slipping, falling and struggling to one's 
feet again. But it never entered my head to give up; I 
had started out to get the bear and I thought of the dis- 
appointed and soul-sick men who were awaiting my return. 

Finally the long chase drew near an ending; I had 
climbed a little hill and, having fallen, was struggling to 
my feet, when looking ahead I saw bruin not a thousand 
yard away. He was sitting on his haunches within thirty 
yards of the open water. 

We were not yet sure of him, but his back was toward 
me and the Eskimo was approaching from the left. With 
the utmost care we crawled forward over the ice, approach- 
ing nearer and nearer to our prey. Suddenly, when we 
had gone half the distance, the Eskimo raised his rifle and 
fired; it was poor judgment, for the bear was still many 
yards away and I doubt if the bullet touched him. I did 
not wait to see; it was the last chance, and throwing cau- 
tion to the winds I dashed recklessly forward straight at 
the animal. He, in turn, got upon his legs, wheeled half- 
around and seemed to hesitate whether to run, or to stand 
and show fight. 

Excitement gave me strength and I ran harder than 
I had done for months; it took all my resolution to resist 
firing while the bear was yet far off. He did not run, 
only turned his head and blinked at me and continued 
doing so until I came within about two hundred yards. 
Then I stopped, threw off my cap, hurled my mittens upon 
the ice, and took a long deliberate aim; I have shot at a 
target and been less cool. 

The echo of my shot went rolling over the ice-field; over 
the barrel of the gun I saw the bear rise upon his haunches, 
his fore paws tore the air, then with a great lurch he swayed 
and went down, a furry heap of dirty white upon the ice. 
Jens uttered a shout of triumph and ran forward, but I 
took the precaution to put two more bullets into the beast's 
head before laying aside my rifle. 

107 



THE WHITE WORLD 

It was half-past 8 o'clock, and the distance to camp was 
three miles in a straight line. 

" Jens," said I, a lump sticking in my throat, " we will go 
home and tell the boys there are four hundred pounds of 
meat waiting for them out here on the ice." 

There was little sleep in camp that night and we did not 
mind the cold so much. 

" Extra rations ! " announced Lieutenant Greely, " there's 
the meat and the scraps will make a splendid stew." 

Extra rations, indeed, we had next day, and the bear meat 
held out just long enough to keep us living until the res- 
cuers found us; but without the bear we would have died 
weeks before, 



108 



SUPERSTITIONS OF THE ESKIMO 



MIDDLETON SMITH. 

Middleton Smith was born in Bainbridge, 
Penn., March, 1847. Received the appointment 
to the Point Barrow, Alaska, Expedition, as 
naturalist and observer, and was absent at Point 
Barrow, 1881 to 1883. He made collections in 
natural history and ethnology for the United 
States National Museum. Upon his return to 
the States he assisted in editing the reports on 
the proceedings of the Point Barrow and Lady 
Franklin Bay Expeditions. 




MIDDLETON SMITH 



SUPERSTITIONS OF THE ESKIMO 

By MIDDLETON SMITH 




|T Point Barrow, Alaska, the most northern 
point of the American continent, are two 
settlements of Eskimo, whose sphere of ex- 
istence is confined, through superstitious 
fear, within an area of several hundred square miles. 
Very few, if any, ever journey so far south as the 
Arctic Circle or beyond it. Probably they never saw 
a white man before the Blossom's barge arrived at 
Point Barrow, in 1826. Previous to 1881, they were for 
the greater portion of each year completely isolated from 
civilization. It was only when, during the summer, a 
United States revenue marine cutter, or an Arctic whaling 
vessel, reached the Point, that the Eskimo of these northern 
Alaskan settlements would get a glimpse of civilized life. 
But they had the " kablunah," or white man, continually 
with them for two years from the fall of 1881, when the 
United States Government established at Point Barrow a 
permanent station, for the purpose of cooperating in the 
work of circumpolar observation proposed by the Hamburg 
International Polar Conference. During the occupancy of 
the station by the expeditionary force, the most friendly 
relations were established with these people, which made 
it possible to obtain from them, through trade, a collection 
of articles illustrating the arts and industries, and to study 
their life and superstitions. 

The population of these two Eskimo settlements was 180. 
There were 54 families and about one-half as many " igloos," 
or permanent dwellings. At the Cape Smyth settlement, 
where the station of observation was established, there 

1 1.3 



THE WHITE WORLD 

were 45 men, 52 women, 2.7 boys, and 14 girls. From the 
measurements and the weights of the adult Eskimo of the 
two villages, it appears that the traditional estimates of 
Eskimo' stature and avoirdupois will need revision. The 
tallest man was 5 feet 8^4 inches; the shortest, 4 feet 11 
inches. The tallest woman was 5 feet 3 inches; the short- 
est, 4 feet l / 2 inch. The average height of the men was 
5 feet 3 inches; of the women, 4 feet 11 inches; of both sexes, 
5 feet 2 inches. The heaviest man weighed 204 pounds; 
the lightest, 126 pounds. The heaviest woman weighed 
172 pounds; the lightest, 100 pounds. The average weight 
of the men was 153 pounds; of the women, 135 pounds; of 
both sexes, 146 pounds. Of the men there were few under 
5 feet 4 inches, the army regulation height, and very few 
under 140 pounds. The majority of the women were over 
5 feet in height and weighed 130 pounds or more. 

These Eskimo differ also from the traditional Eskimo in 
other respects. The lines of Bancroft in his " Native Races 
of the Pacific States " representing the " dozing " Eskimo 
" rubbing his eyes " and " crawling forth " when the long 
arctic night is ended, have no application whatever to the 
Eskimo of northern Alaska. It frequently happens that 
there is no other time during the year in which these people 
are so actively engaged in the struggle for existence as 
during the arctic night. This is their principal " sealing 
season," and the hardy Eskimo, instead of being found 
asleep in his iglu, may be seen miles out upon the ocean 
ice looking for " breathing holes," " ice cracks," and 
" leads " or " lanes " of open water, where he may shoot 
or spear the seal as they come up to the surface to breathe, 
or may capture them in nets. If the sealing be good, it 
makes no difference to the Eskimo whether the tempera- 
ture is at zero or 50 degrees below, whether the wind is 
merely a gentle breeze or is blowing a gale, so long as it is 
an " on-shore " wind, so that there be no danger from the 
breaking away of the ice on which he is staying; he stands 
by his " sealery " and fishes his nets. The flesh of the 
seal constitutes three-fourths of his food supply and the 
blubber furnishes the principal means of illuminating his 
iglus and of bartering for furs with the people of the 
interior. Healthy, strong, and sinewy, therefore, as he is, 

114 



SUPERSTITIONS OF THE ESKIMO 

he must put forth extra strength and endurance in the 
struggle against the rigors of frost during the winter seal- 
ing season, for if he be foiled in his attempts at capture 
and the " output " be small, he must suffer in consequence. 
An Eskimo being asked whether his hands did not get 
very cold and the night seem long while he was engaged 
in fishing his nets for the capture of seal, replied, that if he 
took a few seal his hands got very cold and it required a 
long time for the star Arcturus to move from the northern 
horizon, where it appears in the evening, to the southern 
horizon, where it is seen in the morning; but if he took 
many seal he did not mind the cold and Arcturus passed 
too quickly to the south. It was a common occurrence 
during the arctic night for these natives to come with badly 
frost-bitten faces to our station from their sealing grounds, 
where in the deceptive flush of success they had remained 
too long, to receive at the hands of our surgeon a gratis 
and grateful application of iodine to ease their pain and 
prevent the frost-bitten sores from spreading. It is a mis- 
take to ascribe to these Eskimo the quality of drowsiness, 
sleepiness, or inactivity. 

Unlike the people of tropical zones, where, Edenlike, the 
sheltering tree drops food, and the little nourishment essen- 
tial to life may be obtained by only stretching forth the 
hand and plucking it, the Eskimo must maintain a continu- 
ous struggle for the necessaries of life. At the close of the 
winter sealing season, which is about coincident with the 
end of the 72 days arctic night, they journey into the in- 
terior for caribou and fish, and for about two months, 
February and March, while engaged in the caribou chase 
and in gill-net fishing through the river ice, they live in 
snow houses, temporarily and rudely constructed for the 
occasion. 

Fishing gill-nets through holes cut in the river ice, from 
six to eight feet in thickness, while strictly speaking it 
cannot be considered commercial fishing, since with the 
Eskimo it is done for home consumption only, yet cannot 
by any possible construction be classed as pleasure fishing. 
Hunting deer in this level country, wholly devoid of trees 
and shrubbery, where the caribou can see his would-be 
slayer when he is miles away, and can scent him equally far 

115 



THE WHITE WORLD 

if he be to the windward of him, is no idle pastime. When 
a caribou is finally sighted, after perhaps a long and tire- 
some tramp, the Eskimo, in order to get within rifle range, 
must run the caribou down. This may seem incredible, 
but it is nevertheless true. When the caribou first sees the 
hunter approach he starts up and runs a short distance and 
then resumes his feeding by pawing the hard-crusted snow 
off the moss which furnishes his sustenance; but seeing 
the Eskimo in a dog-like trot still pursuing him, he again 
starts up and runs a short distance and again resumes his 
feeding. Each succeeding time that he starts and runs he 
shows signs of increased uneasiness, and finally, in order 
to find out what kind of a being his pursuer is, he will 
swing around towards the leeward to take his scent. See- 
ing the caribou veer from his course, the hunter will alter 
his own course so as to head the deer off and keep to the 
leeward of him, and in this way get within long rifle range 
and open fire. 

Fish and caribou, the luxuries of the Eskimo spring diet, 
when taken under such conditions, are dearly earned and 
ought to be cached and apportioned during the year in 
homeopathic measure, as entrees to the regular diet of seal 
meat. But arctic hunger is not cognizant of any future 
want. As an illustration of the eating capacity of the 
Eskimo, I would relate the following. Ten hunters with 
their families or assistants, numbering all told 30 souls, 
have been known to take during the short hunting season 
200 caribou and 2000 pounds of fish. They were absent 
from the coast on this hunting and fishing tour two and 
one-half months. Upon their return to the coast an in- 
ventory of what remained of the " output " showed but 30 
caribou and 500 pounds of fish, and they had left nothing 
cached in the interior. These 30 Eskimo, therefore, con- 
sumed within two and one-half months 170 caribou, which 
amounted, when dressed, to about 17,000 pounds, and 1500 
pounds of fish, or a total of 18,500 pounds of meat. This 
gives an average per man of 246^3 pounds per month, or 
8-f pounds per day. This average may seem excessively 
high and may tax one's credulity, but there must be taken 
into account the facts that the diet was purely an animal 
diet, that during these months about the coldest weather of 

116 



SUPERSTITIONS OF THE ESKIMO 

the year was experienced, that this party was almost en- 
tirely without any artificial heat whatever, that the violence 
of the exercise in the exciting chase produced ravenous 
appetites and that their predominant thought was food. 

It may be incidentally mentioned in this connection that 
the personnel of the Point Barrow Expedition consumed 
about one and one-half times as much food, and perhaps 
three times as much water while in the arctic region as 
would naturally satisfy their normal hunger and thirst 
when in the States. And, had the sole object of the ex- 
peditionary force been engaged in the chase under Eskimo 
conditions, their average amount of food consumed would 
no doubt have compared favorably with that given above 
for each Eskimo. 

After the return from the caribou chase the Eskimo be- 
gin making preparations for whaling, and by the first of 
May they are generally upon the ice looking for whales. 
During the whaling season they live principally in their 
boats, as their superstition interferes with the building of 
ice-houses upon the ocean ice and forbids any sleeping, 
heating or cooking outfit or even a change of clothing. 
Any such comforts or emergency preparations on the part 
of the Eskimo would greatly displease the whales and cause 
them to pass into the Arctic Ocean far out from the Alaskan 
coast. The stone spear, which requires considerably more 
force to penetrate the whale's skin and is less sure of suc- 
cess than the iron or steel spear, must be first used by 
these people in striking a whale, simply because their fath- 
ers and grandfathers before them used stone toggle har- 
poons. Whales, which otherwise might be captured, are 
lost to the Eskimo by his not using, through superstitious 
fear, the steel harpoon. After they succeed in fastening to 
a whale they can, without offending their forefathers, use 
the modernized harpoon. It may be pertinent in connec- 
tion with this subject to mention the fact, which is perhaps 
not generally known, that the modern harpoon used by 
our whalers to-day is fashioned after the style of the primi- 
tive stone toggle harpoon of the Alaskan Eskimo. The 
harpoon irons used by our whalers when they first went into 
Bering's Sea and the Arctic Ocean would not hold, and 
in consequence a large percentage of the whales that were 

117 



THE WHITE WORLD 

chased, which otherwise might have been captured, escaped 
their pursuers. 

At the close of the whaling season, which is the first of 
June, preparations are made for a journey along the coast 
to the east of Point Barrow to meet and trade with the 
natives of the interior of northern Alaska who, during the 
summer time, come down the Meade and Colville rivers to 
the coast. 

Thus the life of the Point Barrow Eskimo is spent in one 
continuous round of hunting, fishing and trading under 
conditions at no time pleasant and frequently under the 
most adverse circumstances; yet, strange as it may seem, 
their perseverance never flags, their peaceful disposition 
never gives way to ugliness, their good nature to anger, nor 
does their overflowing mirthfulness ever forsake them. 

The Eskimo of Point Barrow are the most cheerful and 
mirth-loving of any people found on earth. They are never 
morose, gloomy or dismal, as might be thought would be 
a result of the rigors of their inhospitable climate and 
surroundings. They are a good people. Serious family 
quarrels, such as result in bodily injury, are of very rare 
occurrence among them, and it may be questioned whether, 
previous to the introduction of alcoholic liquor into this 
region, such quarrels had occurred at -all, for at least, sev- 
eral generations. The taking of human life is resorted to 
only on the very rare occasion when any one of them be- 
comes dangerously insane, and then it is only after a gen- 
eral council is called and a unanimity of opinion prevails, 
that such a person is deprived of his life. Harmless in- 
sanity is suffered by this people until natural death ends 
the life of the Eskimo thus afflicted. Unjustifiable homi- 
cide may possibly occur, but if such be the case, I think it 
is safe to say that the number of instances will' not average 
one in a generation. 

They never abuse, scold or punish their children of either 
sex, and, on the other hand, the children are obedient to 
their parents or guardians, and in their play, their work, 
or their idle moments never quarrel among themselves. 
The Eskimo ill-treat no one. The wife is shown the con- 
sideration due to her sex so far as Eskimo superstition 
will allow. During her period of confinement she must 

iiS 



SUPERSTITIONS OF THE ESKIMO 

occupy exclusively separate quarters. If this occurs in the 
summer she will live in a tent, but if in the winter she will 
have to move from the family iglu, in which the tempera- 
ture is about 45 degrees Fahr., to a snow house, where 
the temperature will necessarily be at about the freezing 
point of fresh water, and her furniture will consist only of 
caribou skins, a cup to heat water in, and a stone lamp. 
She will receive frequent visits from her attendant and 




CHILDREN OF THE WHITE WORLD 



others who kindly administer to her wants, but for a time 
no one is allowed to enter her snow palace. This custom 
obtained with their hardy ancestors and must, therefore, be 
sacredly observed to-day. 

Aside from the vices which these Eskimo have acquired 
from civilized people, and the evils which result from some 
of their manifold superstitions, they need no missionary or 
reformer. Nothing, is ascribed by them to the pleasure 
or displeasure of an infinitely good being, but they attribute 



119 



THE WHITE WORLD 

ill-luck, disaster, sickness and death to an evil spirit whose 
presence they try to frighten away, or whose wrath they 
endeavor to appease. Many of their superstitious rites and 
practices are harmless in themselves. Some result in good; 
others in disaster. The traditional Eskimo never washes 
himself, but the Point Barrow Eskimo would expect great 
disaster to befall him if, just before engaging in the caribou 
chase, he did not wash from his person the scent, dirt, and 
grease accumulated during the winter's sealing; or if, just 
before going out on the ice in the following April to capture 
whales, he did not wash off the scent of the caribou chase. 

When a death occurs in the village the women are not 
allowed, from sunset to sunrise, either to make or repair 
garments or to do sewing of any kind, except in the most 
urgent cases, when the work must be done while sitting 
within circles inscribed by the point of a knife upon the 
floor of the iglu. 

A woman who during the winter has lost a child by 
death is not allowed to go on the ocean ice during the 
Eskimo whaling season, for if she were to go, the whales 
would either not come at all or would pass in their run 
to the north and east, far from the shore ice. This restric- 
tion may deprive a family of a possible share in the season's 
catch. 

The umiaks, or large skin-boats, when prepared for 
whaling are decorated with crow skins, eagle beaks and 
claws, the skin of ermine, and little bags containing earth 
from the grave of some old-time noted whaleman, for the 
purpose of ornamentation and also as luck-charms. After 
the umiaks are ready, all of the natives are restricted 
from pounding on iron, chopping wood, or digging in the 
earth, and all their movements must be made in a quiet 
manner. The umiak must be launched from the ice, bow 
first, otherwise it would be impossible to capture a whale 
during the entire season. 

A whale must be first struck, as heretofore observed, 
with the stone toggle harpoon, and in consequence some 
whales escape, which, if struck with the iron harpoon might 
be captured. Each captured whale, before being cut up, 
must have a few drops of fresh water from the tundra 
poured on his head, and some magic words spoken to as- 



SUPERSTITIONS OF THE ESKIMO 

sure future luck and success. The necessary fresh water 
for this purpose is carried on the whaling expedition in 
bags made from seal flippers. To prevent it from freezing, 
these bags are placed between the outside and inner jack- 
ets of the men above the belt, and near the small of the 
back. Every seal taken on the ice, whether by spearing, 
shooting, or netting, must be sprinkled with fresh water 
before it is taken to the land. If a wife should happen to 
see her husband coming across the ice with a seal from 
the hunt, she would immediately run with a cup of fresh 
water in order to pour it on the seal's nose, before it is 
brought upon the land. After the seal is cut up and eaten, 
its bones, no matter how hungry the dogs may be, even if 
they are on the verge of starvation, must all be returned to 
the sea, or ill-luck will surely follow. 

When the Eskimo goes to the banks of the river in the 
interior to hunt caribou and net fish he makes an offering 
of a little tobacco to the " tunah," or spirit of the dead, for 
good luck, and then sets his nets and awaits results. His 
superstition will not permit his hunting the same day he 
sets his nets, nor allow him to remove the fish from the net 
the day he hunts. Upon such an occasion his wife only 
can fish the net. 

While I was stationed at Point Barrow, Captain Heren- 
deen, interpreter and storekeeper of our expedition, once 
made a three weeks' trip into the interior of the country, 
for the purpose of hunting and fishing. When he returned 
he told the incidents of his trip, one of which furnishes a 
good illustration of the kindliness and loyalty so generously 
exhibited by the Eskimo attendants. The captain had gone, 
in the excitement of the deer chase, so far from his camping 
ground that night overtook him many miles from his tent. 
On account of the darkness and the level character of the 
country it would have been folly for him to attempt to find 
his way back, for the chances were that the more he would 
walk, the farther he would stray away fro-m the tent, or 
else that he would describe a wanderer's circle about it. 
He wisely concluded to wait for daylight, whereby he might 
be safely guided tentward. The night was cold and windy 
and he was obliged during the entire night to keep up a 
brisk walk within a limited area, in order to avoid being 





OFF THE ALASKAN COAST 



frozen. The aurora, as in mockery of his sufferings from 
the cold, danced in the heavens above him with undimin- 
ished brilliancy for the greater part of the night, and 
occasionally sent its crimson streamers to the zenith, form- 
ing coronas, most beautiful to behold. Day finally dawned 
and he began his homeward march, but he had not gone far 
before he saw his Eskimo ally coming with a dog team in 
search of him. The faithful Eskimo showed both intelli- 
gence and forethought, for he brought with him blankets, 
change of clothing, and food. He also showed more than 
ordinary concern about the welfare of the " kab-lu-nah," 
for if any evil had befallen the captain, the Eskimo would 
have been denounced by his own people as " a bad man." 

While the following facts pertain especially to the Es- 
kimo on the Siberian coast, yet I know from personal 
observation that the kindly and self-sacrificing spirit shown 
by these people pervades all the Eskimo of arctic Alaska. 

Late in the year 1866, the ship Japan, Captain Barker 
commanding, while trying to make her way out of the 
Arctic Ocean, during a severe snow-storm and gale, was 
driven ashore on the north side of Cape East. The officers 
and crew were rescued by the coast Eskimo, who' at once 
distributed the shipwrecked persons among the villages 



SUPERSTITIONS OF THE ESKIMO 

along the coast, and kindly shared with them, during the 
long winter, their igloos, clothing, and food. As the sum- 
mer of 1866 had been very unpropitious for the capture of 
the walrus, and the ice during the winter of '65 and '66 
was unfavorable to the taking of seal, the food-supply of 
these people was unusually small, and to take care of and 
feed a whole shipwrecked crew of 32 men, at a time when 
they could scarcely obtain provisions sufficient for their 
own families, was a very trying task and taxed their pa- 
tience almost beyond human endurance. When probable 
starvation stared them in the face, a council of the little 
settlements was called to see whether they should endeavor 
to keep these strangers through the winter or to simply 
save their own people. It was decided in this council, that 
as the strangers were thrown, by no fault of their own, 
upon their shores and, as it were, placed under their care, 
they should have an equal chance for life with themselves. 
Captain Barker of the Japan testifies that the Eskimo 
women in apportioning the food among his men frequently 
shed tears on account of the smallness of the amount, and 
often would increase the same by adding portions of their 
own shares. And all through the long arctic winter, the 
strangers who were so helpless and entirely dependent upon 
these people for the food, clothing and shelter which should 
enable them to survive the arctic frosts, were given the best 
food that was to be had and the largest share. Those of 
the crew who were assigned to distant villages also testify 
to having been treated with the utmost kindness and con- 
sideration. Captain Barker did not learn, until the plenty 
of the following spring made further fear unnecessary, that 
there had been any question among the Eskimo in regard 
to their supporting him and his crew through the winter. 

A few years previous to the loss of the Japan, the bark 
South Seaman was wrecked, at almost the same place and 
under similar circumstances, and her officers and crew were 
rescued, sheltered, clothed and fed by the Cape East Es- 
kimo. Could the men of the ill-fated " Jeannette Expedi- 
tion," when they landed on the north Siberian shore have 
reached an Eskimo settlement they would have had no 
story of suffering from exposure, of starvation and of death, 
such as was related by the few who actually did survive. 

123 



THE WHITE WORLD 

The Eskimo are, generally speaking, an industrious peo- 
ple, healthy and strong, harmless, kindhearted, very mirth- 
ful and rather good-looking, the children being always 
pretty and some of the maidens beautiful. Each man has 
a wife and the couple are dependent upon their offspring 
for support in their old age. They are not a very prolific 
race and we see some aged couples childless. Such cou- 
ples adopt parentless children and in extreme cases induce 
parents who have many offspring to sell them a boy or two. 
The parents' affection for their children is very great and 
they are very kind to them. I never heard of a parent 
striking or speaking a cross word to a child. The children 
are allowed to do pretty much as they please, but whenever 
they are told to do anything they do it at once, and take 
as much interest in it as they do in their games. They 
never quarrel among themselves, and while at play may be 
heard their merry and hearty laughter. They are all merri- 
ment and a scowl or frown never shows itself upon their 
faces. With but few exceptions, the men treated their 
wives, while we were among them, with the greatest con- 
sideration. 

Among the amusements of the Eskimo may be men- 
tioned their public dances. Upon some of these occasions 
they dress in white, and blacken their faces. Their skin 
jackets and trousers are turned inside out and scraped and 
whitened with chalk. A feather may adorn the hood of the 
jacket. The dance is accompanied with monotonous croon- 
ing and noises made on drums which may be likened to 
our tambourines. Each and every dance has its special 
object. The first one given during the winter of 1882 was 
a sort of " surprise party " dance. They made presents to 
one another. A couple took the floor and, after a short 
dance to music, the ceremony of presenting some object 
to the lady took place. Another couple went through with 
the same performance, and was followed by another, and 
so on until the presents were disposed of, and the ball 
ended in a general dance. This dance furnished an occa- 
sion for the natives to fulfil their promises made during the 
year. They would feel very sorry if they could not fulfil 
these promises. A few days before this dance took place, a 
young native, U-gah-lu by name, came to our captain and 

124 



SUPERSTITIONS OF THE ESKIMO 

said he had promised to Miss Po-cas-si-nah some " pe-lah- 
vah " (flour) and had not the wherewithal to redeem his 
promise, and he pleaded with the captain to help him out of 
his dilemma. He said he could not choose anything else 
to take the place of flour since it is so highly prized as a 
luxury. The boy got the flour and the girl was made the 
recipient of it at the ball. 

The object of the second dance during this winter was to 
frighten off the Eskimo " devil." They firmly believe in 
the existence of this personage, and at night they always 
carry a long knife to protect themselves against him. Some 
of them claim to have seen the devil and describe him as a 
winged man, very savage and horrible to behold. They 
believe that by dancing and shouting around a fire and 
pouring water upon it and firing rifles into the ashes the 
devil will either be killed or badly wounded, and will pass 
away with the smoke. 

Their third dance had for its object the " blessing of the 
sealing and whaling implements." During this dance all 
the Eskimo boat-captains had seats in the orchestra and a 
select few did the drumming and talking. The dance came 
in at the close of the exercise, but was of secondary im- 
portance. Upon their return from the deer hunt they have 
a dance, and also upon various other occasions. 

For sickness they take no medicine, but the physicians 
assemble in the sick chamber and beat their drums and 
ab'-ba-bah' (howl) to the devil to go out of the sick person. 
If in the course of a day or two the patient does not im- 
prove under such treatment, a knife is used by the wise 
doctors, and surgery is performed. Slight gashes are 
made in the afflicted parts of the patient's body. If it be 
a case of persistent headache, a cut from a quarter to one 
inch in length is made in the head. If the pain be in the 
back, a cut is made there. Other parts of the body receive 
like treatment if the devil intrudes there. You might think 
that some of these thrusts would prove fatal to the patient, 
but through long practice these surgeons probably know 
were to cut and where not to cut. These doctors charge 
for their services. Their fees consist of whalebone, walrus 
tusks, fox and deer skins, food, etc. Eskimo families, like 
people in civilized lands, are made poor by having much 

125 



THE WHITE WORLD 

sickness. The Eskimo word for paper is " muk-pa-rah'," 
and there was a little thin doctor whom we christened 
Muk'-pa-rari. By virtue of his paper thinness he was 
reckoned a good doctor, for he could get into places where 
larger men could not go, so that the " evil spirit " had a 
hard time to conceal himself from this doctor. He was 
very successful in driving out the devil from the innermost 
recesses of the Eskimo heart, soul, and body. Whenever 
our doctor made a professional call in the village, Dr. 
Mukparah wanted to be consulted, and they used to go 
together to heal the sick, our doctor administering the medi- 
cine, and the other doing the howling and face-making. 
Of course the latter made the patient well and, being the 
native doctor, got such fees as he demanded. 

These Eskimo doctors are employed at certain seasons 
of the year to beat the drums and howl upon other occa- 
sions than those of sickness. In the spring they ab-ba-baH 
for a southeast wind to drive off the pack ice and open the 
water lanes, so that the whales can pass up near the coast. 
During this ceremony the men sit in a semi-circle facing 
the ocean, the middle man or magician beating a drum 
and singing a monotonous chant addressed to a spirit, re- 
questing him to make the desired wind blow. While this 
incantation is in progress, as well as during the whaling 
season, no pounding must be done in the village for fear of 
frightening away the whales. In the fall of the year they 
howl for the large ice to come from the north and bring 
with it nan-nuk' (bears). If a vessel be nipped in the ice, 
they howl for her to be crushed so they may enrich them- 
selves with the ship's canvas and cargo. In the summer of 
1882, when the steam whaling ship " North Star," Captain 
L. C. Owen, was nipped abreast of Point Barrow, the 
Eskimo doctors kept up a continuous howl for her to be 
crushed. For three weeks they encamped upon the ice 
near the ship, waiting for the crisis to come. Our signal 
glasses were constantly pointed at her, and when we saw 
her flag at half-mast and heard the natives shout we knew 
the ship was in trouble. The ice pressure was too great 
for her and, strongly as she was built, she was crushed in 
and sank within three-quarters of an hour. We saw 
through our glasses her every movement, the crew lowering 

126 



SUPERSTITIONS OF THE ESKIMO 

boats and heaving things upon the ice and finally leaping 
for their lives. When the captain was done with her, he 
allowed the natives to do as they saw fit with the vessel. 
They then began operations by climbing aboard, running 
aloft, cutting sails and ropes and heaving upon the ice 
every thing that was movable. Canvas, the natives prize 
very highly; it makes good summer tents for them and 
they use it also to wrap their dead in. They will endanger 
life and limb for the sake of getting canvas. 

In their trading these natives practice considerable 
trickery, and when detected they consider it more in the 
nature of a good joke than a wilful falsehood. We bought 
from them seal oil to burn in our lanterns. At first they 
brought it to us in wooden vessels which we immediately 
emptied and returned to them. One day a native brought 
oil in discarded fruit cans and, seeing that we did not 
empty them, they all began at once to bring the oil in 
these cans. A lively trade sprang up and it was some 
time before we discovered that we were buying cans only 
half full of oil, the lower half containing solid ice. 

In the fall of 1881 we were very much in need of fresh 
meat. We made it known to the natives and, as we had, 
a few weeks earlier, paid them well for a portion of a deer, 
they at once dressed a large dog (removing his skin, head, 
feet, and tail) which had either died a natural death or 
been killed on account of old age, and offered it for trade, 
assuring us that it was freshly killed deer. 

In the spring of 1882, we began to retrench in the use 
of our coal, and we hired the natives to gather drift wood 
for us. A brisk wood trade sprang up, but after the wood 
pile got about six feet high it did not seem to increase, 
although the same number of sled loads came every day, 
and the same amount of tobacco and hardbread was paid 
out. Their system of stealing the wood by night and 
returning it by day for sale was continued for some time 
before the discovery was made. 

While helping us unload the schooner which brought 
us additional supplies, a box fell upon the foot of a native 
and pressed against his leg. He made a great fuss and said 
" An-a-nah, ari-a-niri-i " (it hurts, it hurts very much). 
He limped and we helped him up the beach and paid him 

127 



THE WHITE WORLD 

off, giving him an extra amount of hardbread and tobacco. 
A long time afterward he told us that he was not hurt at 
all but that he " chuck-a-looed " (lied) to us and said that 
he thoroughly enjoyed deceiving the white man, or words 
to that effect. We christened him " Chuck-a-loo." 

As a general thing the Eskimo do not lie to one another, 
or steal from one another. If they be away from home 
and run short of provisions they will help themselves to 
any meat cache which they may chance to find, just as 
the graziers of cattle on the Western plains slay their 
neighbor's fatted calf, if away from their own and in need 
of food. During the first fall, when our quartermaster and 
commissary stores were strewed along the beach, these 
natives were very honest with us. They had then a fine 
opportunity to steal, but, strange to say, not one article 
was stolen. But as soon as our goods were housed and 
a lock put upon the door it was not safe to leave anything 
outside. We were annoyed at first by their petty thefts. 
When we brought them to task and charged some one of 
their number with stealing, he denied it, but intimated 
that such and such a one was a bad man and that probably 
he did the stealing. We found a bright, honest and truth- 
ful boy and christened him " Pinkerton." Through him 
we found out every thief in the village. Ez-e-ki-ah was 
his name, but if he were called by that name he would not 
respond, and if asked why he did not answer he would say 
" Wung-a Ez-e-ki-ah pe-juk, wung-a at-kar Pinkerton " 
(I am not Ez-e-ki-ah, my name is Pinkerton). 

The Eskimo made very little effort to learn our language 
but seemed anxious that we should learn theirs. They 
wanted to speak to us and to be spoken to. They were 
inquisitive, but showed neither surprise nor admiration 
when we exhibited and explained white men's inventions. 
They were intensely fond of looking at the illustrated 
magazines and papers. They have very active minds, 
learning readily and remembering everything which they 
have seen or heard. When we asked them about anything 
of which they had no knowledge, they would say " I tu, 
wunga la nu gagah " ( don't know, I never heard). The 
Eskimo have great difficulty in pronouncing English words 
and perhaps this is the reason that they did not take an 

128 



SUPERSTITIONS OF THE ESKIMO 



interest in learning our language. Of course they wanted 
to know the names of the men in our party, and they made 
a desperate effort at pronouncing them. They could not 
say " Ray," the name of our commanding officer, but by 
prefixing the syllable ou, they said plainly " Ou-ray." To 
some words they had to add a syllable, in order to pro- 
nounce them. Smith they pronounced " See-miss-ee." 
Herendeen they called E-tic and some few said Er-e-tic. 
The name of Mr. Dark, our astronomer, they could not 
pronounce. Their own word for night or darkness is tah. 
We told them that dark and tah meant the same thing, 
and Mr. Dark was afterward known among them as Tah. 
Dr. Oldmixon's name they could not pronounce. He was 
known as the " kabloonah doctor," which title they pro- 
nounced very well, except that they always represent the 
sound of d by that of t. They asked us a great many 
questions about the " kab-lu-nah nu-na " (white man's 
ground). We explained as well as we were able and 
showed them a great many pictures 
of objects for which they had no 
names. If any four-legged animal of 
which we showed the picture was as 
large as a caribou, or even an ele- 
phant, they called it " took-tu," their 
name for caribou. Any kind of a 
house which we showed they named 
ig-lu." Ships sailing through the 
water they comprehended, having 
seen them, but the railway steam 
engine going over the " nu-na" (land) 
they could not understand. They 
said they would like very much to 
see our land, and one of them said if 
he were to go there he would have so 
much to " tow-took " (see) that he could " see-nik pee-juk " 
(sleep not). I asked the " mickanini " whom we had named 
Pinkerton to leave his cold country and go home with me. 
He looked up in my eyes and asked in an earnest tone 
" E-lu-it nu-na kowkow am-a-dri-ni-ok-to? " When I an- 
swered in the affirmative and told him that we had " much 




129 



THE WHITE WORLD 

food in our land " he said that he would go with me to my 
home. But when the time of departure came, both he and 
his comrade — for we had been commissioned by the United 
States Government to select two natives who were to be 
brought to the States and educated — drew back and could 
not be induced to forsake the many charms of their ances- 
tral home under the midnight sun. 



130 



THE DAILY WORK OF AN ARCTIC 
EXPLORER 



DR. FREDERICK A. COOK. 

Dr. Cook was born in Callicoon Depot, N. Y., 
June, 1865. Surgeon and Ethnologist to the 
first Peary Expedition, 1891-92. Commander of 
Expedition on Yacht " Zeta," 1S93. Organizer 
and Commander of Expedition on S. S. " Mi- 
randa," 1894. Surgeon, Anthropologist and 
Photographer of the Belgian Antarctic Expedi- 
tion, 1897-99. Surgeon to Peary Auxiliary Ex- 
pedition. S. S. Erik, 1901. Author of " Through 
the First Antarctic Night." 




DOCTOR FREDERICK A. COOK 



THE DAILY WORK OF AN ARCTIC 
EXPLORER 




By DR. FREDERICK A. COOK 



JEW of us ever have a long run over a hill of 
happiness without stumbling upon sev- 
eral ups and downs of misfortune, but we 
soon forget this, and, altogether, life 
seems easy enough to most of us who live 
in temperate climes. It is not the same, 
however, with the men who seek the 
realms of the great frozen lands in the Arctic and Ant- 
arctic. Their path is over a series of ups and downs, but 
mostly ups. Their comfort, if they have any, is involved in 
the effort to overcome the ever-present discomfort. The 
men who aim to reach the pole are kicked about by giant 
seas, are pounded by heavy storms, are brushed by freezing 
drifts of snow, and yet they calmly resign themselves to 
become the footballs of a hard fate because of a few pleas- 
ures. An effort only partly crowned with success gives 
such elation and joy that all the sufferings and discom- 
forts are forgotten. 

Herein lies the reason for the unfaltering law that he 
who has once beheld the other-world conditions, and has 
felt the charm of the white snowy silence of the frigid zones, 
will ever long to return. If from any cause a polar ex- 
plorer cannot return to the dream of his life he either com- 
mits suicide, gets married, or dies an unnatural death in 
some way. 

Individuals differ very much in their impressions of the 
degrees of comfort and discomfort which result from the 
prosecution of the work of polar exploration. The 



135 



THE WHITE WORLD 

pioneers of the old school who worked with inefficient 
implements and almost perished, tell only tales of woe. 
Those of the new school, profiting by the experience of 
the men of old, and utilizing the more perfect modern 
equipment, are enthusiastic about the pleasures of the work. 
The fact is, that one can find both comfort and discomfort 
to his heart's content while wandering over the wild wastes 
of polar ice, but he seldom thinks of the comfort until he 
has returned and passed beyond the reach of discomfort. 

Soon after the announcement of each projected modern 
expedition, there have poured in hundreds of applications 
from young men, and from women not so young, to join in 
the effort to explore the polar regions. It is curious that 
so many should volunteer their services for so arduous a 
task. Why is this pole-seeking so popular? Surely these 
aspirants are not familiar with the real phases of the life of 
the explorer. From beginning to end the work of an ex- 
ploring party is hard; to endure hardships and to suffer are 
the normal conditions. On such expeditions there are few 
servants, and few men to do the drudgery of daily work. 
Officers, as well as sailors, must mend their own hose, wash 
their garments, cook, and fill the places of carpenters, shoe- 
makers and what not. The work is like woman's work; 
it is never done. People often ask, " What do you do to 
pass the time?" One is never more busy, or more thor- 
oughly occupied, than when performing the duties of a 
well-organized expedition. There are thermometers and 
barometers to read and record, astronomical and nautical 
observations to be made, magnetic and auroral phenomena 
to be noted, and clouds to be studied; then there is the 
prosecution of the never-ending series of studies bearing 
upon the fauna and flora of the region. This is the work 
at headquarters, which must be continued every hour of 
the night and day, throughout the year. Moreover, there 
is the field work, the work of surveying and exploring the 
unknown stretches of land and water which is the real test 
of endurance. 

Let us follow briefly the life of a sledge traveler. He 
starts out for a determined poleward dash, taking with him 
no money to buy necessities and comforts en route, no trunk 
or little luxuries; nothing beside his bed and his tent, 

136 



THE DAILY WORK OF AN ARCTIC EXPLORER 

with fuel and provisions for three months or more. All 
of this is in such shape that at any moment he is pre- 
pared to carry his baggage on his back for miles. There 
are no half-way inns, no houses, no shelter, and no bazaars 
by the wayside. If he has forgotten or lost anything, it 
cannot be replaced. He is far away from the familiar 
world, far from the accustomed comforts of life, and as 
completely isolated as if he was on the surface of the moon. 
Day after day he plods along over desolate fields of rough 
ice, pushing and pulling sledges, urging and whipping the 
wolf dogs. He is always too tired to talk, frequently too 
weary to eat, and often also too uncomfortable to sleep. 
Still, he has resolved to make the effort of his life, and he 
continues to press onward. 

One day he advances five miles, the next twenty miles, 
and again but a mile; and then a storm comes which causes 
a halt of five days. As time goes on, the stock of provis- 
ions decreases, the load becomes lighter, but he finds the dis- 
tance covered all too small. Half rations are now served. 
Heretofore the full ration would seem a starvation diet, but 
now it is only half, and the character of this is such as to 
make one's marrow shrink. Here is the day's gastronomic 
comfort: For breakfast, two cups of tea, a few ship's bis- 
cuits, hard and tough, a bit of pemmican, twenty years old, 
which is made of equal quantities of dried meat and beef 
tallow. No luncheon, except a soap-like cake of bacon- 
fat, mixed with pulverized peas. For dinner, the break- 
fast is repeated with an extra treat in the form of a large 
drink of water, if the fuel supply will permit such a luxury. 
Experience has proven that this is the most practicable 
bill of fare, and it does not permit of much elaboration. 
Except the tea, everything is taken cold, and to-day, when 
I think of my chattering teeth and quivering muscles, while 
trying to devour the straw-like pemmican, I am doubly 
glad of the comforts of home. 

It is really remarkable to see how this scant polar diet 
keeps up the physical powers, and it is even more remark- 
able to see how a fat piece of frozen pemmican will change 
a hungry man's mind. Hunger is as normal to the ex- 
plorer as the shivers, and both complaints are treated by the 
same remedy, food — for when the stomach is full the body 

137 



THE WHITE WORLD 



is warm. When the day's journey is ended, the tongue 
burns, the throat is parched, and there is an uncomfortable 
pinching at the pit of the stomach. One feels like eating 
a mountain and drinking a river, but the effect of pemmican 
upon this condition is marvellous. It is too hard to eat 
rapidly, so one nibbles away, shivers and dreams of better 
times. The dry, uncooked bits of meat go- down with a 

snatch and some effort, and 
one is very conscious of its 
position in the stomach by a 
heavy, full feeling, which is 
always a joy to hungry mor- 
tals. Long before the half- 
pound lump, which is the 
usual allowance, disappears, the 
pangs of hunger are forgotten, 
and then a desire for a hot 
cup of tea, to take away the 
scratchy feeling, is all that is 
necessary to make life again 
worth living. The diet of a 
sledge traveler is not so bad 
when you have nothing else 
within reach, but the gods 
could not force a man to eat 
it if he could get some- 
thing else instead. One 
takes to it as kindly 
as a convict does to 
prison diet. 

It is not so bad 
with the bed. 
Among the inci- 
dents of bed-going 
are to be found the 
happiest moments 
of an explorer's 
life. It is a pity that the North Pole cannot be reached 
in a sleeping-bag, for therein lies the foundation of most 
of the comforts of polar adventures. This is as it should 
be, for when a man forces his powers of endurance 




AN ESKIMO BELLE 



138 



THE DAILY WORK OF AN ARCTIC EXPLORER 

to their utmost, he must have proper rest, but this, rest is 
generally of short duration and is always carefully guarded. 
Much depends upon the mood of the elements, the location 
of the camp, the cut of your sleeping-bag, and also upon 
your companions. If the wind blows hard it always car- 
ries needle-like crystals of ice, and these drive down your 
back with an unpleasurable ease. If the camp is pitched 
in some nook, out of the wind, you are quickly buried 
under the drift of snow. If the sleeping-bag is too thin or 
too thick, if it is too long or too short, or if it has any one 
of a dozen faults, it makes life a torture. Some prefer 
a " one-man " bag, others a bag for three. Now, I like 
a " three-man " bag, but I want to choose my bed-fellows 
carefully, and I also want to select my position in the bag. 
When three men are slipped into a bag, like fingers into a 
glove, there is not much room for discussion. Such men 
must not have bristles which can be rubbed the wrong way, 
for there is nothing worse than sulphurous language in a 
sleeping-bag. It doesn't matter how charming a man may 
ordinarily be, he is another sort of a creature in a bag; and 
then, too, men have such different ways when asleep. 

" The chronicles of three men in a bag " would make an 
excellent title for a story of exploring life, but I am not . 
going to write this story just now. To illustrate the com- 
forts and discomforts, however, I must recount a part of 
this experience. In field work one seldom has shelter 
except a small tent or a snow-house, but usually, when the 
weather is at all tolerable, the bag is spread out upon the 
open field of ice. One man attends to the culinary busi- 
ness; his duties are simple. After building a wall of snow 
as a wind guard for the little blue-flame oil stove, he selects 
some blocks of snow to be melted for tea. The tea is 
several hours in preparation, and while this is being done, 
the other two undress and slip into the bag. It is remark- 
able how quickly men will jump out of their clothing in a 
temperature of forty degrees below zero. 

As the men quiver and shuffle and grunt in the bags to 
overcome the chill of their cold air bath, the cook chops 
off pieces of pemmican with an ax, and, with a package of 
biscuits, he tosses it to them. For a half hour they punch 
each other and munch the hard food, and then a reaction 

139 



THE WHITE WORLD 

sets in — a sort of warm electric glow which raises the mind 
to the seventh heaven of happiness. Ah! these are the 
moments for which polar men will gladly shiver for weeks. 
Then it is that they lie down and dream of happy homes, 
sweethearts and friends far away. After a time, the lonely 
mortal upon whom the lot has fallen to prepare the tea, 
brings over a condensed-milk can full of steaming stuff. 
It is feeble, but it is hot, and anything hot is a godsend. 
Little things, like cups and saucers, knives, spoons and 
table linen, do not trouble the explorer. Nor does he ever 
think of washing dishes. The cook then kicks up some 
bits of ice as a pillow, and stores the clothing under the 
bag to keep it from being blown away, after which he drops 
out of his garments, shivers, and pushes into the center 
like a wedge between the other two. He has a distinct 
advantage over the two first bag tenants, because he gets 
the warmth of the others, who are by this time in a fever 
heat of happiness. In a very short time all are sleeping the 
sleep of the just in a lonely wilderness of ice, and then 
what care they for the cruel outside world? There is no 
noise except the metallic crackling of the snow under the 
bag, the snore of the companions, and the steady blow of 
the wind as is brushes the bag. 

Their sleep is frequently disturbed by the " turning pro- 
cess." The position of each bag tenant is like that of a 
sardine in a box. The snow soon closes in around the bag 
in such a manner that any unusual room is obliterated by 
the pressure from without. To turn, then, is a task which 
requires a unison of action. It is curiously easy, however, 
to bring about simultaneous movement, even among sleep- 
ing men. The signal is usually given by one of the side 
men, who> turns, bringing his elbows against the ribs of the 
middle man. The middle man, in his first experience, 
wakes up and rams his other companion a double blow. 
The third man also wakes up, turns, and the process is over 
until the next turning period. After a few nights, this 
turning is done simultaneously by all hands without wak- 
ing up. 

It is the universal opinion' that polar explorers suffer 
mostly by reason of the intense cold, and that success or 
failure is due to the powers of enduring low temperatures, 

T40 



THE DAILY WORK OF AN ARCTIC EXPLORER 

but this is far from the truth. True, there are snow and 
ice everywhere in evidence. Snow falls during the summer 
as well as during the winter. For this, however, we are 
prepared; suitable garments so fit the body that one does 
not really suffer much more from the effects of cold than 
does a New Yorker in winter, and we avoid the life-redu- 
cing heat of the home summers. 

Still, I do not mean to infer that the cold is ever for- 
gotten. The conditions are such that the absence of heat 
is constantly brought to mind. When we start out from 
our comfortable rooms at headquarters, we emerge from an 
agreeable temperature of seventy degrees into an icy air 
of minus forty degrees, which makes a difference of one 
hundred and ten degrees of cold within ten seconds. This 
causes the breath to come in jets of steam, and soon the 
whiskers, the eyebrows, and every fragment of hair about 
the face are covered with icicles and crystals of hoar frost; 
beautiful little things, but they do not seem pretty at all 
to the possessor, for he is constantly brushing them off, 
pulling out bunches of hair and blowing out warm phrases. 
One never learns the real trouble of the life of the frigid 
zones until he has his face bejewelled with icicles. 

Owing to the natural laws of radiation, the extremities 
lose their heat first. The careless traveler, constantly suf- 
fers from cold hands and feet, and even a careful adept 
loses his fingers or toes with remarkable ease. We start 
out on a mission, traveling over the icy waste of white 
wilderness, and, for a time, all are happy, comfortable and 
contented. After a few hours we become thirsty, but we 
well know that there is nothing to quench our thirst, for, 
though there is water everywhere, it is frozen. Later, we 
become hungry, but we must delay satisfying the pangs 
until our destination is reached. 

We plod on and on, over the weary snows, until we find 
a camping place. Then we pitch camp, but now one has 
a stinging pain in his toes; after a while this vanishes and 
is replaced by loss of sensation in a large part of the foot. 

The boot is removed, and through the many thicknesses 
of hose the foot feels like something foreign. One stock- 
ing after another is cautiously taken off, but still there is a 
woody touch to the foot. When the last stocking is stripped 

141 



THE WHITE WORLD 

down, the foot is found white and glossy, like porcelain. 
A more careful examination reveals the fact that one or 
two toes are missing, and then the sock is shaken for the 
missing bits before an effort is made to restore the circula- 
tion of the icy tissues. But an explorer must learn to rise 
above such little discomforts. He who cannot afford to 
lose strips of his skin, or parts of his hands and feet, is 
not worthy to be counted among the braves who seek the 
pole. 

No! it is not the cold which makes the life of frigid ex- 
plorers hard; it is the hopelessness of the unimaginable 
isolation from the accustomed walks of life. Perhaps it is 
unbecoming to the supposed austerity of explorers to admit 
that the withdrawal of the little home and social incidents 
of life are the causes of the greatest discomforts, but this 
is nevertheless the fact. One misses most the little touches 
of romance which are unconsciously a part of our daily en- 
tertainment. After being locked in the ice and forced to 
endure its awful monotony for a few months, what would 
one not give for a letter, or a word from home, from mother 
or sisters, or other men's sisters? Ordinarily, men do not 
know what it is that makes life enjoyable, but he who aims 
to reach the North Pole will quickly learn that he suffers 
not from the cold or hunger, but from the little nothings 
of home and social life which are there far out of reach. 

I might go on and recite a hundred other lessons which 
go to make up the schooling and deprivation of the Pole 
seekers, but I hasten to record the comforts. There are 
few, but they exist to him who seeks them. For here is the 
world nearest to its youthful character. The moving crust 
of the earth with which we drift, the hardy, simple life, and 
even the sky, all suggest a period of the earth in its infancy 
long before the advent of man. It is this strange sim- 
plicity, this other-world air of terrestrial youth, which 
makes the polar regions so fascinating to nature-loving man. 
Everything about us is new, yet old ; every sight is simple, 
yet clothed in mystery; every phenomenon like a shy 
maiden, is attractive, but difficult of access. The haste 
and hustle of the living world are far from the mental hori- 
zon, and the mind is ready to examine new problems. It is 
fortunate that one can, after a little experience, here open 

142 




ESKIMO POSING BEFORE THE CAMERA 

the book of Nature and record the causes and effects of 
nearly all phenomena, for then the mysterious halo which 
surrounds everything- polar disappears. 

Each point of attraction which at first bewilders us by 
its strangeness becomes a written page to be added to the 
future annals of science. There are a hundred things 
which, in this way, daily present new aspects and urge the 
mind out of its lethargy of monotony into a state of fascina- 
tion. Now we can see some peculiar strip on the sky, a 
striking series of clouds, a rare fog effect, an unusual sun- 
burst or an aurora; now it is something connected with the 
sea, or with its burden, the ice. Perhaps the surface will 
seem motionless, while at a little distance a small, blue- 
ridged berg will bound and dance as if animated by some 
strange submarine spirit; or perhaps one of the bergs, with 
whose face we are familiar, will suddenly turn, offering a 
new face and a curious color. Again a berg is seen with 
black spots and discolored stratifications. What is the 
origin of this? Is it the output of a volcano, or is it natural 
glacial debris? We see the effects, but what are the 
causes? 

And so the questions run. Hardly have we learned one 
lesson when another is brought to our notice. This time, 
perhaps, it is some speck of life, curiously embedded in a 



143 



THE WHITE WORLD 

wilderness of ice. What story has it to give? To what 
family does it belong? We want to know its manner of 
life, its food, something of its migration, and so on. There 
is always a stimulus for an endless series of interesting 
observations. These tempting studies are what lift the 
spirits above the even plane of white monotony. It is this 
fresh interest in the unknown which makes life tolerable. 
We all like to ponder over the days of our youth; those of 
an inquiring turn of mind love to reflect upon the youth- 
ful days of the earth; and looking at the polar world, as a 
whole, it bears a close relation to what the earth must 
have been when man first came to it. Life under such con- 
ditions brings new joys in spite of the soul-despairing dis- 
comforts. 



T44 



LOST ON THE ICE-CAP 



HUGH JOHNSON LEE. 

Hugh Johnson Lee was born in Maiden, 
Mass., Dec, 1871. In i892-'93-'94-'95 accompa- 
nied Lieutenant R. E. Peary on his north 
Greenland expedition and crossed the inland ice 
to Independence Bay with him. In 1897 Mr. 
Lee made his third Arctic Expedition, acting as 
Lieutenant Peary's private secretary. Shortly 
before sailing, Mr. Lee was married to Florence 
A. Leonard, who accompanied him; their honey- 
moon being spent within the Arctic Circle. 




HUGH J. LEE 




LOST ON THE ICE-CAP 

By HUGH J. LEE 




■T WAS about February 20, 1894, just 
a few days after the sun had come 
back to us, and every one about the 
lodge was delighted to think that all 
had survived the terrible Arctic night. 
A short time before, we had climbed 
to the highest point of familiar Mount 
Bartlett, the dark and towering cliff 
which had stood, sentinel-like, above our lodge all through 
the four months of darkness, and from its topmost point 
we had looked off to the south, where just above the cliffs 
of Tig-er-hom-iny on the south side of the gulf, we had 
seen the upper rim of old Sol as he peeped up to take the 
first glance into our little world. We had looked with joy 
into each other's faces and had once again seen the sun 
shining on them. To be sure it gave them a greenish tinge 



149 



THE WHITE WORLD 

after the long period of darkness, but the mental strain had 
passed, and we were content. The days were short, but 
they were rapidly lengthening, and we knew that before 
long we would have continuous daylight for an equal length 
of time. 

Plans for our proposed trip across the ice-cap were well- 
nigh finished, and the only thing that remained to be done 
before making our dash for the Pole was to lay in a supply 
of food for our dogs. The energies of almost every mem- 
ber of the party were required to provide sufficient meat 
for that purpose, so that no one could be spared by Lieu- 
tenant Peary to assist me in the work of going into the 
interior to dig from the snow the provisions which had 
been cached at a point about thirty-five miles from the 
house, and at the top of the steepest slopes of the ice-cap. 

Besides Lieutenant Peary, I was the only man of our 
party who had visited the cache, and so was selected to 
make the trip. The cache had not been visited for four 
months, and we expected that the provisions left there 
would be pretty well covered with snow, the accumulation 
of the entire winter. My orders were to start from the 
lodge Sunday afternoon for the moraine, where I was to 
camp that night, and the next morning make my way to 
the cache. On reaching it, my duty would be to dig the 
provisions out of the snow and put up the two tons of pem- 
mican in one hundred bags, so that they could be handled 
easily on the journey across Greenland. When I had fin- 
ished that work, I was to build several large snow-houses 
which would form a shelter for the entire party while at 
work loading sledges, etc., preparatory to making the start. 

As I left the house Sunday afternoon, I had a first-class 
dog team and was accompanied by two natives. We took 
no oil stove with us, and very few provisions, as we had 
left an oil stove and plenty of food in a snow-house at the 
moraine, where we had camped frequently during the fall 
campaign. The distance to the moraine was five miles, and 
the path or trail of the autumn before was entirely obliter- 
ated by the snow which had fallen during the winter. The 
traveling, which was over steep rocks, covered in many 
places with ice, was the roughest imaginable, and before 
we reached our camping place we were more than three 

150 



LOST ON THE ICE-CAP 

thousand feet above the level of the sea. That moraine was 
a barren spot, wind-swept and bleak in the extreme. One 
of the peculiarities of the interior of Greenland is the con- 
stantly blowing wind in the direction of the slope of the 
land, save, of course, in the case of general storms. It 
was this constant wind, which in the preceding October 
had sent the snow from the interior sweeping across the 
moraine like an avalanche, and had held our entire party at 
bay in the snow-house for more than two weeks waiting for 
a chance to get across and into the interior. 

When I reached the former camping place on that Sun- 
day afternoon, about 4 o'clock, it was already growing 
dark, as the sun was not yet high enough to make the days 
very long, and I could see no sign of the snow-house where 
we had slept so often during the fall. 

In its place was a smooth white mound of snow. The 
summit of the moraine was bare, as no snow could remain 
on its wind-swept crest, and the rocks and gravel of which it 
was composed were heaped in little conical-shaped masses, 
making it an easy matter for me to pick out the exact 
location of the dug-out which had been covered by the big 
snowdrift. Assisted by the two natives, I began digging 
with my hunting knife, and soon reached the roof of the 
house which was to provide our night's lodging. 

During the winter the constantly blowing wind had 
sifted snow through the cracks in the walls of the house 
until the interior was a solid mass of hard snow. It was 
8 o'clock when at last we reached the canvas which covered 
the floor of the snow domicile, and using this to patch up 
the big hole in the top of the house, we made ourselves com- 
fortable, and after a hearty meal all three went to sleep 
wrapped up warmly in reindeer skins. 

In the morning I found that during the night I had, in 
my sleep, broken my pocket compass, and the thought of 
going into the interior without a compass being prepos- 
terous, I started back to the lodge to replace my loss, leav- 
ing the two natives with instructions to< put the snow- 
house in good condition for a future camping place. Had 
I returned to the moraine at once after getting the instru- 
ment, much trouble might have been avoided, but Lieuten- 
ant Peary invited me to remain to dinner at the house, as 

151 



THE WHITE WORLD 

he said I would not be able to start from the moraine into 
the interior before the next morning. 

After dinner I left for the snow-house again, and when 
I had almost reached it I met the two natives, who said that 
after having repaired the house they had become frightened 
at the continuous wind and the loneliness of the ice-cap 
which was the abode of the " Kah-koy-ah," or devil, and 

had wanted to get away from 
his influence by returning to 
the coast. The natives are 
very superstitious about the 
ice-cap, and never go into the 
interior unless led there by 
some white man. 

I laughed at them and told 
them to come back with me, 
as I was not afraid of the 
devil, and I would protect 
them from him. They replied 
that before they had left the 
moraine they had untied the 
dogs, so that the devil could 
not get them, and they were 
scattered all over the side of 
the mountain. It would be 
useless to go back as there 
were no dogs with which 
to make the trip into the 
interior. 
I never have been able to determine whether this action 
was taken to free the dogs from the influence of the devil, 
or in order that the Eskimo might have a good excuse for 
not returning to the moraine with me, knowing full well 
that they must meet me on their way home. 

A sight of one of the dogs up on the mountain side 
showed me their story was true. I knew that they would 
find their way back to the lodge, but it was impossible 
to catch them at this time, so I went back and reported 
to Lieutenant Peary. The suggestion was made that I take 
two other natives and a new team of dogs, and go back to 
the moraine later in the evening, after the moon had risen, 




ESKIMO ATTENDANTS 



152 



LOST ON THE ICE-CAP 

so that I could be ready to start on to the ice-cap early 
Tuesday morning. This plan was carried out, and as I 
left the lodge that night the lieutenant handed me a knap- 
sack, saying: 

" Here is a present from Mrs. Peary. You can leave 
the knapsack at the moraine." 

Reaching the remodeled snow-house without incident, I 
opened the knapsack and found that it contained a cherry 
pie. This pie formed my lunch on the following day, when 
it was frozen so hard that in order to eat it I had to chop 
it into small mouthfuls with a hachet. Tuesday was a fine 
cold day, the temperature being about forty-five degrees 
below zero. During the short day I covered about twenty 
miles, taking a northeast course from the moraine. The 
variation of the compass at that point was ninety-six de- 
grees west, so that in order to travel northeast, the course 
was southeast half south. 

All day we journeyed without seeing any of the frequent 
guide-posts which had marked the course during the fall 
campaign, and the natives seemed to doubt that the com- 
pass would guide us to' our destination. During the aft- 
ernoon there were frequent appearances of the peculiar 
mirage effect so often noticed on the ice-cap, and this had 
given the Eskimo the idea that the devil was following us. 
As night came on, and there was nothing except the com- 
pass to show that we were on the right track, the natives 
began to grumble and wanted to turn back. I knew that 
we had come at least twenty miles, and we ought to be 
pretty close to the tent which we had left standing nearly 
ten miles this side of the cache. Chilled through with the 
biting wind, having traveled but slowly, as the dogs were 
unable to go fast with the heavy sledge, and threatened with 
a strike, as my Eskimo were liable to leave me at any 
moment, I decided to camp for the night. 

I told the natives that if it were only light enough, we 
could see the tent from our present position. They did 
not believe me, but by promising them I would let them go 
home in the morning, should my statement prove untrue, 
I persuaded them to stay with me over night. We made 
a snow house in which we slept comfortably. My calcula- 
tions proved correct, and in the morning we saw the top 

153 



THE WHITE WORLD 

of the tent not more than half a mile away, and a little to 
the left of our course. Breaking camp we started for the 
tent, and in a short time had it folded up in our sled and 
were marching on again. The natives were awe-stricken 
when they saw how that tiny compass had guided us over 
all those miles of trackless snow; they assured me that 
they would remain with me as long as I might wish, pro- 
viding always there was plenty of food in the outfit. 

I had no more trouble with them, but the elements were 
against the successful completion of my task. Soon after 
the tent had been struck, and we had started for the cache 
again, a great white cloud enveloped us. This prevented 
all progress, as any one who has been in a similar position 
well knows. One cannot take half a dozen steps in a 
straight line, and, as it is impossible to carry a compass 
steady enough to keep one direction by depending on it 
alone, one might just as well be without that instrument. 

I cannot describe, in any adequate manner, the sensa- 
tion of being on the ice-cap and enveloped in one of those 
clouds. One can feel the surface beneath his feet, but he 
cannot see it. He can perceive no horizon, as the earth 
and sky are both of one color. The foot tracks in the 
snow, even, are invisible, and one feels as if he were sus- 
pended in gray space. The only thing to do was to camp 
and wait for clear weather. 

The next morning was Thursday, and, as I knew that I 
was within two or three miles of the cache, I thought that 
it would be a good plan to locate the store of provisions 
exactly, before moving camp, especially as the last mile 
or so of my journey the day before had been made while 
in the cloud, and I knew that I was a little off my course. 
The two natives and I started to find the cache. 

It was not so easy a task as I had expected, however, and 
I found that it was noon before I had located it. Thinking 
that either one or more of my assistants might have been 
more fortunate, I retraced my steps to the tent only to be 
disappointed. Exasperated at finding the entire forenoon 
wasted in fruitless search, I started out to look for the 
cache again, not even going into the tent to get a lunch. 
An hour or so later, the cloud once more enveloped me, 
and I tried to retrace my steps to the tent. It soon began 

i54 



LOST ON THE ICE-CAP 

to snow hard, and as it was impossible for me to see my 
tracks, I feared that I might be lost. Night came on 
rapidly, and I walked for a long time in the direction in 
which I thought the tent to be, at last realizing that I was 
really lost, and the more I wandered about in search of 
the tent, the farther away from it I might be going. 

I saw that it would be impossible for me to reach the 
tent that night. I made up my mind that the best thing 
for me to do was to remain where I was until morning, 
and I began to experiment on what I could do to keep 
my feet from freezing, for I knew that even though the 
temperature was between forty and fifty degrees below 
zero, my clothing was warm enough with the exception of 
my moccasins, which were moist with the perspiration of 
the long day's tramp. I took my big fur mittens and 
tucked them on my toes, and pulling my hands through the 
sleeves of my fur coat, Eskimo fashion, folded my arms 
across my breast, and with the empty sleeve across my 
face to protect it from the driving storm, lay down in the 
snow, but not to sleep. It took me but a short time to 
realize that sleeping meant freezing, and soon I arose, 
having decided that the only way to pass the night alive 
was by keeping in motion. 

I had often read of the experiences of travelers lost in 
snow storms, and supposed that, like them, if I kept in 
motion I would travel in a circle, finding myself in the 
same vicinity in the morning. I acted in accordance with 
this plan, and all through the long dark night plodded on, 
not daring to stop to rest for fear of freezing, for I was 
chilled through with the biting wind and exhausted by the 
ever-drifting snow blown in my face, no matter in which 
direction I turned. 

After a most tedious night, and just as the morning 
gray began to show in the south, suddenly and without 
warning the surface gave way beneath my feet, and I felt 
myself falling. Involuntarily I threw myself backward, 
and found myself hanging by the middle of my back with 
my feet dangling in space. The ominous sound of frozen 
pieces of snow and ice, rattling down into the depths be- 
low, warned me that I was hanging on the edge of one of 
those dangerous crevasses. Making a supreme effort, I 

i55 



THE WHITE WORLD 

pulled myself back onto the solid ice, where for a time I 
was afraid to move, for fear of falling into the big ice 
cavern, which was covered with snow, and which I could 
not see, except in the one spot where I had broken through 
the crust which concealed it. 

The snow had stopped falling and it was rapidly growing 
lighter, making it possible for me to see the outline of the 
edge of the crevasse, which was about an inch lower than 
the surface of the ice-cap. I started to follow it, still 
trembling from my fright, but at last gained confidence as 
the day advanced, and I continued along the edge for per- 
haps two miles, when I found a place where it was narrow 
enough to jump. 

I could see the whole of Inglefield Gulf spread out before 
me with all its indentations, including Bowdoin Bay, where 
the lodge was located. I knew that I was a good many 
miles from my camp of the day before, and after my wan- 
derings of the night in the snow storm, it was useless for 
me to attempt to find the tent. Although I had my com- 
pass with me, I did not know the course to follow, for I 
had paid no attention to the way I had come. From where 
I stood making these observations, there was a glacier that 
appeared from my position to be what we called the East 
glacier, which comes down into the bay on the eastern shore, 
four or five miles from the house. The distance did not 
appear great, and thinking that by following its course 
down to the bay, I could reach home in about two hours, I 
started with a vigor which I had not supposed possible 
after the twenty-four hours of continual tramping, fasting 
and battling against the storm. 

The journey down the surface of that glacier was about 
the roughest tramp of all my five years' experience in 
Greenland, and I had not traveled very far from its source 
before I discovered that it was not the East glacier, but 
instead the Hubbard glacier, which reaches the shore of 
the gulf at Koin-a-soon-ny, about twenty-two miles from 
the house. Still, I knew that the best way to avoid getting 
lost again was to follow it to the sea, for I was familiar 
with the entire coast, and knew that as soon as I could 
reach the gulf, I would have smooth traveling and the 
chance of falling in with some natives from whom I could 

156 



LOST ON THE ICE-CAP 

get food and secure a sled and dog team for the homeward 
journey. It appeared to me that I would be able to reach 
the shore in a short time, but the rough traveling made the 
journey a very tedious one. The surface of the glacier 
was covered with well-nigh impassable crevasses, and I 
had become so tired that it mattered little if I fell into 
one of them, so pushed along recklessly. Several times 
I stepped into the crust of snow which concealed the 



AN ICE ARCH 

crevasses, repeating my experience of the early morning, 
but I was no longer frightened, for I had reached such a 
state that I did not care what happened. 

It was long after noon before I reached a place where 
it was possible for me to leave the glacier. I had thought 
that by traveling on the land instead of the ice, I might 
find an easier road. I followed the bed of the stream 
which flows beside the glacier in the summer time and 
found but little improvement in the walking, the course of 
the stream being strewn with huge boulders, which were 
almo-st as difficult to travel over as the rough, hummocky 
ice on the glacier. There was no danger of falling into 
crevasses, however, and I knew that if I followed the 
glacier to its end without leaving its surface, it would be 
impossible for me to get off from it, as its face is per- 
pendicular and about eighty feet high. 

The bed of the stream was in one place blocked by a 
large mass of ice which had fallen away from the side of 
the glacier, and was banked up against the steep mountain 

i57 



THE WHITE WORLD 

side. I tried to get around the obstruction by climbing 
up the mountain, but this was impossible on account of 
its steepness. As the glacier was broken at that point, 
I found that I could climb back upon it, and I did so, 
trusting to good fortune to find a place on the other side 
of the broken mass of ice, where I could get down into the 
valley again. I traveled some little distance on the top 
of the glacier and was rapidly approaching its terminus 
without finding such a place. 

At last I decided that the only thing for me to do was 
to make an attempt to climb down, and, as the night was 
coming on fast, and it would mean sure death for me to 
remain there after dark, I started to follow the course of a 
small crevasse, which ran crosswise of the glacier. The 
crevasse was only three or four inches wide and by getting 
hold of its icy edge with my hands, I began my descent. 
On account of the shape of the glacier's side, I could not 
see what my landing place was to be. The crevasse gradu- 
ally narrowed until it was not large enough for me to get 
my fingers into, but I had descended so far, and down 
such a steep grade, that, even if I had not been exhausted, 
I could not climb back again. 

I could not see how far I was from the bottom, but gave 
up all hope, and after hanging in my perilous position 
for a time, decided that I might as well end the agony, and 
so released my hold and went flying down the side of the 
glacier. Luckily I landed in the deep snow which had 
drifted into the ravine at the foot of the glacier, and in 
a few moments I was on my feet again and covering the 
short space which remained between me and the shore. 

It was quite dark as I walked out upon the sea ice, 
though not too dark for me to see that I would have to 
make a wide detour around the face of the glacier, as the 
icebergs pushed out from its face had broken up the ice 
for several miles. I was over twenty miles from home, 
with the prospect of walking all night before I could get 
anything to eat, unless I could fall in with some wandering 
Eskimo, and the chance of doing so was small, as the lodge 
was nearer than the nearest native village. My pathway 
over the surface of the gulf was smooth and it was easy 
for me to find my way, as all I had to do was to follow 

158 



LOST ON THE ICE-CAP 

the shore right up to the house. Such a walk in the dark 
would have been but a small thing had it not been for my 
thirty-six hours of continual tramping and my long fast. 
I found it necessary to stop frequently to rest, though every 
time I sat down I could hardly rise again, for I was very 
sore and lame. 

How I ever covered those twenty miles, I have never 
been able to explain. I was familiar with all the landmarks 
along the shore, but I did not remember passing any of 
them except Cape Milne, where I stopped to rest and to 
congratulate myself on having finished half the journey. 

At last I reached the ice foot in front of the lodge, and 
while I was climbing over the rough ice to the land, one 
of the ever-wakeful natives spied me, and in a glad voice, 
cried out "Lee tig-er-ka-shu! Lee tig-er-ka-shu! " (Lee 
has returned). He rushed into the house ahead of me to 
acquaint the members of the party with the news, and I 
followed him. I well remember the sound made by the 
frozen snow on my fur coat as it grazed on the sides of 
the passageway leading to the dining-room in our com- 
fortable little house. 

In the doorway I met old Dr. Vincent, who had been 
my companion on the night watch all through the long 
winter, and who was that night standing watch alone in 
my absence. He put his arms around me and kissed me 
while the tears ran down his cheeks. 

To return to the two Eskimo who were with me on the 
ice-cap; they became alarmed when I did not get back to 
the tent, and when the snow storm came on they began to 
cry out in order to guide me to the tent, for they knew 
that I could not find it in any other way. The roaring 
of the storm or my distance from the camp prevented me 
from hearing them, or my suffering would have been 
avoided. I had in the tent a box of Roman candles to be 
used as signals later, when the main party was to join 
me at the big supply station for which I had started. The 
two natives had seen the queer looking sticks and had 
asked me what they were. I had explained to them that 
they were to be used as signals and had even taken one 
of them in my hand and shown them where to light it. 

Poad-loo-nah, one of the two, told me afterward that 

i59 



THE WHITE WORLD 

when it became dark Thursday night, he thought of the • 
Roman candles and, getting out one of them, lighted it. 
He said he was frightened when it began to hiss, and the 
sparks to fly, but at the same time he was afraid to let go 
for fear of getting shot with it, and so held it until all the 
balls were discharged. After the first one, he ceased to 
be alarmed, for he saw that there was no danger and he 
shot off the whole box full of them during the evening. 

Friday morning, alarmed at my prolonged absence, and 
fearing that harm had come to me, they started back to 
the house, which they reached late that night. They gave 
the alarm, telling of my long absence from the tent, and 
the boys were afraid that, alone in a storm on the ice-cap 
without shelter of any kind, I had perished. Lieutenant 
Peary, ever thoughtful for his men, had ordered breakfast 
served at four o'clock in the morning for a party that was 
to start out in search of me. It was just four o'clock when 
I reached the house, and the doctor was about to call the 
men for breakfast, when my return made it unnecessary. 

After a day in bed, I was as good as new again, and 
four or five days later I went with the entire party into the 
interior. 



160 



AN ARCTIC HONEYMOON 




p^W* 





FLORENCE LEONARD LEE 



AN ARCTIC HONEYMOON 

By FLORENCE LEONARD LEE 




O one who has never penetrated that mysterious 
realm of ice and snow, a bridal trip to Greenland 
does not sound alluring. Indeed some of the 
remarks we heard from our home friends led us to 
think there were those who did not envy us, who, 
in fact, even doubted our possession of well-bal- 
anced minds. Many times I heard repeated the old 
adage, " They who know nothing, fear nothing." 
This may have applied to me, but not to my fiance, and 
when through the kindness of that " Hero of the North," 
Lieutenant Peary, the chance to go to the Arctic Regions 
was offered, we quickly made our preparations, and were 
married July 6, 1897. Before that day was ended, those 
who had cavilled joined with us in great longing for a 
breath of the frigid zone. The heat was so intense that 
we momentarily expected to see the organist topple over, 
wilted like a tallow dip. Even the rice thrown at us on 
our departure appeared to me to be partially cooked. 

After spending the intervening time in Boston with 
relatives, we sailed from that harbor, July 19, on the 
unpretentious whaling ship, " Hope." On board were 
Lieutenant Peary's party, a number of scientists, students 
and professors, Albert Operti, the artist, a most delightful 
traveling companion, who could joke even when seasick- 
ness had him in its clutches, and who rose superior to 
every inconvenience or disturbing element on shipboard; 
Arthur Moore, whose handsome face and youthful ardor 
for adventure won him a place in our favor; his friend, 
Lansing Baldwin, whose violin woke strange sweet echoes 
on that Arctic Sea; J. D. Figgins, taxidermist, and Dr. 

163 



THE WHITE WORLD 

Sohon, champion cribbage player. It was never dull with 
such a party on board, even though we were enveloped in 
fog half the time. Here I witnessed my first game of 
cricket. Cricket, with the ball tied to the mast, has its 
charms of novelty, but also its drawbacks. A run started 
on a deck constantly changing from horizontal to nearly 
vertical does not always end as the runner would have it; 
neither is cricket interesting when the ball is slipped from 
its moorings and is dancing on the waves. We found auc- 
tions entertaining, with the auctioneer, a college man of 
wide experience, who sold articles stealthily taken from 
his room back to their owner — usually Professor Stein. 

The voyage up to a certain time was probably identical 
with others. But we soon left civilization behind. One 
morning, hearing a commotion on deck, I hurried up the 
companionway and found all gazing at a large iceberg. 
From that time familiar sights passed from me and I looked 
" upon a world unknown." We were heading for Baffin's 
Land to leave Jensen who had a whaling station there, and 
a party of students who intended to remain for hunting 
and fishing. Baffin's Land! Nightmare of Loneliness! 
Acme of Desolation! Barrenness! Dreariness! Rockiness! 

When the ship anchored, Mr. Jensen was disappointed 
to find none of the natives on shore to welcome him. Soon, 
however, after firing several bomb guns to call them if 
near, he was rejoiced to see a sail appear upon the horizon. 
It proved to belong to a boat containing one man, three 
women, five children, several dogs and puppies, and a 
number of highly perfumed skins. These were the first 
Eskimo I had ever seen, and they were certainly a strange 
looking people. 

We remained on shore most of that day and part of the 
next, while the supplies for Jensen's five years' stay were 
unloaded, together with those of the sportsmen, and here 
I had the novel experience of coasting down hill in August. 
It was a fine long slope covered with hard snow, and after 
watching Mr. Lee slide a few times, I looked around to see 
that no one was in sight, gathered my skirts around me, sat 
down and slid, sans sled. I enjoyed it so much that I 
repeated it several times. When we returned to the sta- 
tion, some of the gentlemen asked me if I enjoyed my 



AN ARCTIC HONEYMOON 



coasting. I was embarrassed to think that I had been 
caught in the act, but was solaced when I recalled the fact 
that two of our dignified professors had been sliding the 
same way. 

These Eskimo were queer looking figures with their com- 
bination of English and Eskimo dress. The women had 
upper garments of fur, one wearing a red skirt, the other a 
light blue. One was the proud mother of a cunning little 
baby, apparently about two months old. This little thing, 
when taken out of the hood 
on the mother's back, in 
which it was carried, was 
seen to be clad only in a 
hood and short coat of fur, 
leaving the lower limbs 
absolutely bare. This was 
all right as long as it was 
in the hood nestling against 
the mother's warm body, 
but when taken out to be 
fed, it had rather cold 
comfort. The mother was 
as delighted with the notice 
taken of her little one as 
any English mother would 
be. _ 

Finally we left the shore and proceeded on our way. 
Our next stop was to be Godhaven, where my husband 
and I were to remain, while the ship went farther north 
for the great meteorite. I was disappointed because we 
had to punch through no ice pack such as Mr. Lee had 
described to me, the water being singularly open this year. 
We steamed into the picturesque harbor of Godhaven on 
the morning of August 7. Already our ship had been 
boarded by a swarm of natives with a miscellaneous assort- 
ment of articles to " trucky." Through intermarriage with 
the Danes, these Eskimo have lost many of the character- 
istics of their race, such as the broad, flat noses, swarthy 
skins, black hair, and stunted forms. Many are fair, and 
some of the women are even comely. 

Mr. Peary and my husband went ashore to make arrange- 




WHERE THE HONEYMOON WAS SPENT 



165 



THE WHITE WORLD 

ments for our accommodation, which proved to be very 
agreeable to me. We had expected to have, rooms at the 
home of the Inspector, Herr Anderson, but his family were 
in Denmark, so that he could not receive us, but he placed 
a small hut, more pretentious than the others, at our dis- 
posal. It had formerly belonged to the wife of a Danish 
governor and was perfectly neat. I waited with impatience 
while our provisions were placed in the boat that was to 
carry us ashore, and at last all was ready, and we rapidly 
approached the landing. 

After a sight of Baffin's Land, Godhaven seemed a para- 
dise with its fifteen or sixteen comfortable frame huts, 
covered with turf, which was sprinkled with tiny white 
flowers. At the water's edge, a group of women, making 
a brilliant and strange picture with their red, blue or yellow 
boots, ornamented fur trousers, calico jackets of brightest 
hues, and many-colored bead collars, awaited us. 

It was not long before our goods were housed, as the 
natives lent willing though curious hands. My hat, a mod- 
est affair, suitable to my needs, I laid aside on entering the 
house, and it was soon surrounded by an admiring group 
of women, who exclaimed " bene-suse " (fine) many times, 
over the pink roses. I imagine they thought them growing 
there, unwatered. 

In a short time we said farewell to our shipmates who 
had proved such pleasant company, and saw the " Hope " 
pass from our sight around the distant cape. We then 
turned our minds to the task of house-settling in the little 
cottage that was to be our home for a month. This cottage 
was more commodious than those of the natives, boasting 
three rooms instead of one, though the exterior was cov- 
ered with turf like all the others. The large front room 
had two good-sized windows, facing south and west. The 
walls were painted light blue, the ceiling pale yellow, and 
it was altogether a very pleasant living room. The other 
rooms were smaller, but comfortable; one we used as a 
kitchen, the other as a store-room for our provisions. The 
little furniture we had was lent us by the Governor, Carl 
Harries, a young Dane who, with Inspector Anderson, 
Assistant Governor Fleisher and his wife, all did their best to 
make our stay pleasant. They were Danes, but could speak 

166 



AN ARCTIC HONEYMOON 

English to some extent. I had been in my new home but 
a short time, when I was unceremoniously driven out, 
for the vast clouds of smoke that came from our kitchen 
stove when Mr. Lee started the fire rivaled that of the 
smokestack of the " Hope." Two of the natives were 
soon at work cleaning- out the chimney and I reentered 
and prepared our first meal, the principal item of which 
was some fine fish, just out of water. These were obtained 
from the natives, as were all our fish and birds while there, 
in exchange for a few ship's biscuits brought with us for 
trading. 

We never had to go to market; the market came to us, 
in the shape of a string of natives bearing things to 
" trucky " — ivory paper-knives, bracelets, crochet hooks, 
knitting needles, brooches, sealskin bags, kamiks, fish, 
birds, miniature kayaks, and everything else they could 
think of. They always opened the outer door and stood 
shuffling and sniffing until I called them in. One day I 
heard the door open softly, and although I called " mane " 
many times, no one came, so I went out to see who had 
entered. I found a tiny boy holding a big fish in either 
hand. He did not make a motion or utter a word, but 
simply looked up with a sidelong inquiring glance at me. 
I called Mr. Lee, who immediately took the queer little 
fellow outside to take his photograph, and then gave him 
several biscuits for his fish. One fellow, more like the 
northern Eskimo, with a shock of black hair standing out 
all over his head, whom we called the foot-ball player, was 
always bringing us some worthless thing, and trying to 
make a deal. One day he brought a red sealskin bag, 
which had spots of mould on it. My husband said to him: 
" What's that for? " " Truckey," he answered. " Trucky, 
decidedly trucky; a fossil, isn't it? You save fossil? " " Eh 
eh " said the Eskimo, " me save fossil." 

They are unwilling to own that they don't understand. 
He evidently liked the word. " No," said Mr. Lee, " we 
don't want it, it's no good." No good meant nothing to 
him, so Mr. Lee said " ajungningilak." The native looked 
hurt, but finally took his leave. 

When we went for a walk, everything that met my eye 
was new and unfamiliar. The ground, a mass of rocks, 

167 



THE WHITE WORLD 



with here and there little patches of turf, sometimes scat- 
tered with flowers, the strangely clad people who all greeted 
us with a smile, the small grass-grown huts, the wide sweep 
of landscape without a single tree, the numberless icebergs 
dotting the water everywhere; all were sources of wonder 
to me. Here I lived for a month and grew to love the 
land and the kindly people. 

Prominent among the recollections of this life, the form 
of Nicholas stands out. Nicholas was our man-of-all-work. 
When I found he was to be our servant, I told Mr. Lee 
that I couldn't endure his presence. Tall, awkward, flat- 
faced, snub-nosed, and asthmatic, he was not attractive. 
One could hear him coming some way off, for he breathed 
like a porpoise. Soon, however, he proved himself so 
valuable to us that my dislike for him wore off. He under- 
stood a few English words, and used them on every occa- 
sion. If he wished to 
get us freshwater he 
would ask "me ketch 
urn pail?" to chop 
kindling, "me ketch 
um wood?" or to 
build the fire, "me 
ketch um stove ?" 




Dining Room., ,, 
Recepfrorv Hall, 



Everything was "ketch um" until I lay down at night to 
dream of Nicholas chasing vainly the things he wanted to 



168 



AN ARCTIC HONEYMOON 

catch. My little maid was a pretty, neat, little girl of about 
ten years of age, with fair hair and skin, and one eye cast 
heavenwards. She did exactly as she was told, and though 
many chances were offered, never took a thing which was 
not given her. She was called Elizabeth, as all the Eskimo 
here have assumed English names. We grew to be very 
fond of her. 

We often had invitations to " afternoon coffee " from 
the natives, and although our first acceptance was given 
rather doubtfully, I soon learned to like their black coffee 
from Denmark; but as to their manner of preparing it or 
the cleanliness of their dishes, I just schooled myself to 
think of something else. In the evenings there were dances, 
and these were enjoyed very much. Every one of the 
people could dance, and Daniel and some others did very 
well in a dance much like the so-called " Buck and Wing." 
The children from three years up participated in this, and 
were all more or less proficient in it. Even our little friend 
of the fish, whose length and breadth were almost equal, 
strove fiercely to keep up with the others. 

The house to which we went oftenest was Daniel's. He 
was a jolly, short, dark man, who had been so much on 
whaling ships that he could speak better English than any 
of the others. His wife was the best looking woman on 
the island. Their house, a fair sample of all, was divided 
into two parts, with separate entrances, which were so low 
that I never failed to bump my head on entering. Each 
part consisted of one large or fair-sized room, across one 
end of which was a platform about two feet from the floor 
and five feet broad. On this platform' were several big 
bags of feathers used for beds. During the day, these 
beds were placed flat against the walls, looking like enor- 
mous so'fa pillows, and the platform served for seats. 
Around the other sides at intervals were benches, under 
one of which always stood a keg of ice water. The walls 
were often ornamented with colored pictures or prints, and 
in nearly every house hung a small three-shelved rack, on 
which was displayed the entire stock of dishes, consisting 
of a few cups and saucers. In the middle of the room 
stood a stove, a plain round-bodied affair, with one cover at 
the top. Their fuel was some dried mossy stuff. The floor 



THE WHITE WORLD 

was clean, being kept so with sand. In this one room 
lived, perhaps, three families, men, women, and children, 
eight or nine in all. 

One of our pleasantest recollections is of our trip to 
Bluefields to obtain speciments of the Nordenskjold iron. 
We went in a whaleboat with a crew of six Eskimo, and 
camped out at night in our tent to wait for the tide to be 
favorable. On the way the crew shot a good many birds, 
which we cooked for supper. The Eskimo felt the cold 
that night, their old skin tupic was so thin, but we were 
in a new canvas tent with an oil stove burning. How those 
people did admire that oil stove, it was so " assuit " (quick) 
— almost as much as the women admired a large pink satin 
muffler that I wore. I imagine I could have bought the 
island with it had I consented to trade. After obtaining 
several goo'd speciments, we were returning home, when 
I felt cold for the first time since leaving the ship, and Mr. 
Lee made me put on his fur coat. When we got near 
enough to be seen, the natives all began shouting to the 
crew. It seems, they thought from the hood and coat I 
wore, that I must be a Cape York Eskimo, and the crew 
kept up the joke. The natives are always ready to laugh, 
and have a great deal of humor. As we drew nearer, I 
stood up and waved my hand. Upon recognizing me, they 
laughed with glee over their mistake. 

Another pleasant trip was a climb up the mountain to the 
ice-cap. We started early one morning, carrying just as 
little provision as possible, and wearing our kamiks; while 
I wore for the first and only time a bloomer costume, the 
only comfortable dress for such climbing. The mountain 
was 2600 feet high, and the ascent most difficult on account 
of the soft moss on its slope that gives no foothold. At 
noon we were half-way up, so we rested and lunched in 
a little rocky glen by a waterfall. I was pretty nearly 
exhausted then, and, when about three-quarters of the way 
up, declared I could not go another step either up or down. 
After resting for a while, though Mr. Lee urged me to 
return, I was bound to reach the top, as Mrs. Peary had 
done several years before, and started on again slowly, Mr. 
Lee carefully picking the way. Soon I got my second wind, 
and easily gained the top, and stood on the ice-cap. Sud- 

170 



AN ARCTIC HONEYMOON 

denly, a report like that of a cannon startled us, and we 
looked just in time to see a massive berg, out at sea break 
apart in the middle, tremble and topple over, a large plat- 
form of ice rising from under the water, while the mighty 
mass above, with a noise like that of a giant groaning, 
slowly sank upon its side. 

After visiting the cairn built by Lieutenant Peary on his 
first trip north, we started down. The descent was much 
easier, of course, but some of the places were so steep that 
the only thing to do was to simply sit down and slide. 
Mr. Lee would go first, and, landing safely at the bottom of 
the grade, would stand ready to catch me, should I be 
unable to stop. There were patches of vegetation on which 
we found many berries growing similar to our huckleber- 
ries, of which I paused to eat so often that Mr. Lee felt 
doubtful about our reaching home that night; so he set 
his course with a view to keeping away from them. He 
had carried his rifle part way up the mountain, and arranged 
with Nicholas to bring the boat across the harbor when he 
heard three rifle shots. This would save us going over- 
land about a mile. But before we reached the place where 
the rifle had been left, we saw the boat coming; the whole 
tribe, it seems, had been watching for us. 

Hardly a day went by that we did not row on the harbor 
in Herr Anderson's small boat. One day we were just 
outside the harbor, taking photos of icebergs, when a whale 
came so near our boat, one could almost have hit it with 
a stone. I proposed getting out of the way, but my hus- 
band and Nicholas assured me that there was no dan- 
ger and that it was but a little whale, though an animal 
the length of a small house didn't look so very tiny to 
me, nor so harmless either. It interested me to watch 
it spout, and observe how great a distance it could go 
with one stroke of its tail. In this case distance certainly 
lent enchantment to the view. 

One day, just as we had finished our lunch, a short, dark 
little Eskimo woman appeared at our door and told us she 
was very tired, having come overland from Disco fiord, a 
place about forty miles away. We invited her in, and gave 
her some hot coffee, cold tongue, cheese and biscuit, which 
she ate with relish. She spoke English very well, and in 

171 



THE WHITE WORLD 

the course of conversation, we discovered that she was the 
famous Augustina_, who, twenty-five years before, with the 
unfortunate party from the wrecked Polaris of Hall's ex- 
pedition, had drifted on the floe ice for a whole winter. She 
was the mother of the child born on that drifting ice, who 
is now living on Disco Island, under the name of Charlie 
Polaris. We were much interested in Augustina, and in 
her account of her trip to the United States, where she 
had been taken when rescued from the ice floe by Captain 
Bartlett, an uncle of our own captain. 

Before we came away, we had two snow storms, but the 
flakes melted as soon as they touched the rocks. Also the 
nights were growing dark, so that we no longer had to 
darken the windows so that I could sleep. People at home 
seem to think the weather in Greenland just the same all 
the year round, and when they saw a picture of me sitting 
on the rocks and crocheting, they couldn't understand how 
I could do it. I do not know whether I should enjoy a 
winter there or not, but little Marie seemed to have weath- 
ered it remarkably well. Dear little snow baby! How we 
all loved her, no wonder the Eskimo women came from all 
around to see her and give her presents. 

One thing gave me quite a surprise. That was to find 
a small church at Godhaven. Here we attended service on 
Sunday, and must have shocked the natives, as we sat 
together, not having noticed upon entering that the women 
were on one side and the men on the other. The school- 
master was preacher as well, and as near as we could make 
out, the service was much like the Lutheran. Space will 
not suffice to tell all I would like to about the different 
Eskimos and our intercourse with them. Others have 
told of the country and the dogs whose howling at night 
is like so many wolves. The two dogs who lived next to 
us were soon fast friends of mine, courting my company 
for benefits received. At first they were afraid, though not 
so much as I, but soon would come to the door and poke 
their noses in to wait for food. 

I never saw anything more amusing than a little incident 
that happened one day, showing how the natives feel about 
throwing away anything eatable. About twenty of the 
women and children were out on the rocks drinking coffee 

172 



AN ARCTIC HONEYMOON 



and gossiping—at least so I supposed — and they had given 
me a particular invitation to be present. I thought I would 
give them a little treat, so I carried out a pail of lemonade, 
which they drank with keen relish. When it was gone I 
gave the lemons remaining in the pail a toss, when presto, 
each piece was clutched from the ground as if it had been 
worked by a spring. I do not remember ever seeing these 
people show a dislike for 
anything we gave them in 
the line of food, but im- 
agine they may have suf- 
fered somewhat from its 
variety. 

At length the time for 
the ship to return drew 
near, and we told the 
natives we would give 
twenty biscuits to the one 
who first announced it to 
be in sight. Early on the 
morning of September 5, 
Daniel rushed in out of 
breath crying "oomiaksua" 
(the ship). Yes, it was 

true, and before long appeared old Keshu, the Cape York Eski- 
mo, who was so fond of "Lee," and had been watching for him 
ever since the ship had started back, and such a jabbering 
took place that I couldn't tell which was Eskimo and which 
American. 

When he found that Mr. Lee had a " koona " (wife), he 
seemed to take it as a great joke, but told him he approved 
of me because I didn't shrink from shaking hands. 

Soon we received calls from the different members of the 
ship's party, and in a short time were back on the " Hope," 
bound for home. It almost seemed to me that I was 
leaving home, I had enjoyed it all so much. On the return 
trip we were greatly entertained by the interest which the 
six Eskimo exhibited as they drew near civilization; all 
except Ahtungua, who was so sick all the way. The poor 
things were horribly frightened when we were enveloped 
in a very dense fog, and the fog whistle blew every few 




A REVERIE 



173 



THE WHITE WORLD 

minutes. When it was understood by Nookta that we were 
in some danger, he began to pray. " O, Father Spirit, send 
the fog away," as they told me that his jargon meant. It 
was rather surprising, to say the least, when shortly after- 
ward, the fog suddenly lifted. 

All things come to an end, and so did our delightful 
honeymoon. Like all other Arctic travelers, we feel drawn 
by the magnet of the north, and long to visit again that land 
of snow. 



174 



A TRAGEDY OF THE FAR NORTH 



WALTER WELLMAN. 

Walter Wellman, journalist and explorer, was 
born in Mentor, Ohio, Nov. 3, 1858. Led an 
expedition " The first Dash for the Pole " in 
1894; in 1898-99 commanded an expedition in 
search of the North Pole, and reached Lat. 82 
N., by way of Franz Joseph Land, and discov- 
ered many new islands. 




WALTER WELLMAN 



THE MIDNIGHT SUN 




A TRAGEDY OF THE FAR NORTH 

By WALTER WELLMAN 




^NE OF the most extraordinary tragedies 
known to the history of Arctic explora- 
tion fell among the experiences of the 
Wellman Polar Expedition of 1898-9. The 
story of this tragedy has been told, in part, 
in many languages. But I purpose here 
to tell it all. It is a story weird, uncanny, 
pathetic; yet it carries the saving grace of rare human 
courage, of unexampled fortitude, of inspiring character- 
stamina. The hero of the tale is a humble Norwegian 
sailor. Paul Bjoervig is his name. I know him well, as 
I should, having bunked and messed and worked with him 
many days and nights, having slept in the same bag with 
him, having seen him in danger and distress, but never 
knowing him to show the white feather. 



179 



THE WHITE WORLD 

My first acquaintance with Bjoervig was when he be- 
came a member of my first Arctic expedition, a summer 
trip to the coast of the Northeast Land of Spitzbergen. 
In that journey we had no great cold to contend with. In 
.^.ct, our troubles and dangers arose from too much heat. 
Day after day and mile after mile we floundered about in 
broken, drifting ice. Every half hour one of us was down 
in the sea to his middle. We waded, we wallowed, we 
sozzled in the icy water. We knew not what it was to be 
dry, day or night. Amid all these trials and tribulations 
Bjoervig was the most adventurous spirit. If there was a 
bit of dangerous work to do, he was sure to be the first to 
plunge in. If some one must dive into the sea to rescue a 
sledge or a piece of luggage, he was the one to dive. 
He appeared to enjoy it. If ever man loved the Arctic, 
Bjoervig did. He sang and laughed at his work. If he 
went down into a porridge, half ice and half salt water, 
and was pulled out by the hair of his head, he came up with 
a joke about the ice-cream freezer. When he was not at 
work he was telling stories. He was the wit, the humorist, 
the unfailing optimist, the dare-devil of the party. A true 
Viking of the ice-country was Paul Bjoervig. 

One day three men were out bear-hunting on an island. 
Two of them had rifles, one didn't. The last was Bjoervig. 
They found a bear, wounded him, and chased him to the 
top of a glacier. There Bruin stood at bay. One of the 
hunters went to the left, another to the right. Bjoervig 
laboriously mounted the ice-pile to scare the beast down 
where the others might get a shot. But one of the hunters, 
becoming impatient, started to climb up also. On the way 
he lost his footing and fell, sliding forty or fifty feet into 
a pocket of soft snow. At that moment, unfortunately, 
Bjoervig frightened the bear. Leaving the summit of the 
ice-heap, the beast slipped and slid straight toward the 
helpless man who was floundering up to his arm-pits be- 
low. Apparently the man's life was not worth a half- 
kroner. In a few seconds the bear would be upon him; 
would claw him to pieces; bite his head off; chew him into 
bits. The brute was wounded, furious, desperate. 

Paul Bjoervig saw what he had to do. He did not hesi- 
tate. He followed the bear. From his perch at the sum- 

180 



A TRAGEDY OF THE FAR NORTH 

mit he threw himself down the precipitous slope. He 
rolled, fell, slipped, caromed, straight toward the big white 
beast. An ice-bear, mind you, is the antithesis of a good 
many men. At a distance from danger he. is an arrant 
coward; in close quarters, when cornered, or hungry, or 
desperate, he fights like a Bengal tiger. Paul knew an 
this. There was nothing about the tribe he did not know. 
He had no weapon but an oaken ski-stav, a mere cane. 
But he made straight for this bear, just the same. Down 
the hillock-slope he came, bumping and leaping, and yell- 
ing at the top of his voice. His cries, the commotion 
which he raised, the vision the bear saw of a man flying 
down at him, frightened the beast half out of his wits; 
diverted his attention from the imperiled hunter to the bold 
pursuer. 

This was what Bjoervig was working for. The bear dug 
his mighty claws into the ice and stopped and looked at 
Paul; but Paul couldn't stop. The slope was too steep, 
his momentum too great. Now he was thirty feet from 
the white fellow, now twenty. He dug his hands into the 
crust of the snow; he tried to thrust his ski-stav deep into 
the surface. It was in vain. Now he was almost upon 
the bear; the beast crouched to spring at him. Another 
second, and it would all be over. Crack! The rifle speaks; 
the man down below has had time to recover his equili- 
brium; the bear tumbles over, growling fiercely- Another 
shot, and the brute is done for. Paul and the bear roll 
down together. 

" You saved my life," says the man with the gun, when 
Bjoervig has picked himself up. 

" No, no," responds Paul, whipping the snow out of his 
hair, " you saved mine." 

Of course I took Bjoervig with me when I sailed on the 
second Wellman Expedition in 1898. This was a more 
serious undertaking. It involved wintering in the far 
north, and a sledge journey at the height of the cold 
season. Leaving Tromso, Norway, late in June, in the 
Arctic steamer Frithjof, we took our Siberian dogs aboard 
at Archangel, Russia, and then forced our way through the 
drift ice to Franz Josef Land. After vain efforts to get 
farther north with our ship, we established headquarters at 



THE WHITE WORLD 

Cape Tegetthoff, Lat. 8o° 4', and prepared to pass the 
winter there. But the North Pole was our objective, and 
to facilitate progress toward it when the time should come 
for the supreme effort, which would be the following spring, 
we established an outpost about the 81 st parallel. As 
this outpost afterward became the scene of the extraordi- 
nary tragedy of which I am writing, and as the question 
has been often asked why it was established, what good 
purpose it was designed to serve, a word or two of explan- 
ation should here be entered. 

The aim of every Pole-seeker is to get his base as far 
north as possible; that is, to assemble his supplies and his 
outfit of all sorts as near to the Pole as he can get them. 
The state of the ice was such that we could not force our 
ship more than a few miles beyond the 80th parallel. But 
before the winter set in we endeavored to push an outpost 
as far to the north as we could. The economy of the out- 
post was that all the surplus supplies assembled there 
could be used by the Pole-seeking party the following 
spring. If able to find so many hundred pounds of food 
at the outpost, they would be saved the labor and time of 
dragging that much from the base. Travel in the Arctic 
region is more a matter of weight than of distance. If one 
could go to the Pole and back without carrying food or 
other baggage, the Pole would have been reached many 
years ago. But everything must be carried — food for 
men and dogs, tents, sleeping-bags, extra clothing, guns 
and ammunition, scientific instruments, fuel for melting ice 
into drinking and cooking water, a boat of some sort for 
use in case of meeting open water or crossing channels in 
the ice. Nothing except ice can be had on the way — no 
game or food or fuel of any sort. Enough must be car- 
ried for the outward journey and for the return trip. 
Thus the weights at starting are sure to be pretty heavy, 
pare them down to the lowest possible limit though one 
does. The heavier you are loaded the slower will be your 
progress; hence the advantage of having some of your 
supplies advanced a distance along the road. If it were 
possible to have depots at various points on the way to 
the top of the earth, that would be ideal. Frequently every 
Arctic man is asked: "Why don't you use two or three 

182 



A TRAGEDY OF THE FAR NORTH 

years in establishing depots, one beyond the other, and 
then when you have placed supplies all along the road 
make your journey up and back, pushing from one out- 
post to the other?" The answer is very simple: So far 
as the land goes this is just what every Pole-seeker tries 
to do. But it is useless to establish depots upon the sea- 
ice beyond the land, for the conclusive reason that they 
could never be found again, except by rare good luck. 
Even in winter the ice-sheet is never at rest. It is con- 
stantly drifting to and fro, with a general movement in that 
region, as was shown by the voyage of the Fram, toward 
the west. If one left a depot upon the ice he could never 
be sure the ice had not opened there during his absence 
and destroyed it. On returning from their sledge journey, 
Nansen and Johansen made no effort to find the Fram 
again, though they were at no time more than 115 miles 
from the ship, and on their southward march, with a 
dreadful and doubtful prospect before them, they must 
have passed within 30 or 35 miles of her at farthest. 

Our winter headquarters were established at Cape Teget- 
thoff, and there the main party passed the winter. From 
this point a party was sent out in August to establish the 
advance station. The principle involved in this plan was 
precisely the same as that employed by Lieutenant Peary, 
who passed the winter at his headquarters at Etah or Cape 
Sabine, but used as an outpost or depot Fort Conger, 
Greely's old house, 200 miles to the north. The party 
sent out to establish our outpost stopped at Cape Heller; 
there they built a hut of rocks. A few pieces of driftwood 
served for the ridge-pole. The hides of walrus, killed 
in the water pools of Austria sound, near by, formed the 
roof. In this hut were accumulated about a ton of stores 
for use the following spring — sledges, boats, and other arti- 
cles needed on sledge journeys. Forty dogs were there 
also, and for their sustenance during the winter the flesh of 
fifteen walruses was cut up in small squares and stored in 
a bin built of snow blocks. To protect the hut from the 
winter's storms high walls of snow were built, and these 
made the premises look so much like an old-fashioned 
fortification that Mr. E. B. Baldwin, leader of this party, 
named the place Fort McKinley. 

183 



THE WHITE WORLD 

As soon as everything was made snug for the winter 
Mr. Baldwin, pursuant to his instructions, asked for vol- 
unteers to remain at the hut through the winter to guard 
the supplies and care for the dogs. All five of the Nor- 
wegian members of the party offered their services, and 
great was the disappointment of the three who were not 
chosen. The two men assigned to the task were Paul 
Bjoervig and Bernt Bentzen, of Tromso, Arctic sailors, 
neighbors, and warm friends. Together they had often 
talked of the pleasure it would be to pass a winter in the 
Arctics in a little hut well stocked with food and tobacco, 
and this was to be the realization of their dream. 

Their enthusiasm was not due to inexperience. Paul 
Bjoervig was a veteran Arctic sailor and traveler, as we 
have seen. Bernt Bentzen had been a member of Dr. 
Nans en's crew aboard the Fram on that famous drift- 
voyage through the polar seas. Both men were happy and 
well when their comrades left them and started for our 
headquarters at Cape Tegetthoff, just at the beginning of 
winter. It is a coincidence that but a few miles to the 
westward of this hut is the spot where Nansen and Johan- 
sen passed the winter of 1895-96 in a similar structure, built 
out of such materials as could be found upon the ground. 

On February 18 we set out from the winter quarters 
on our way toward the Pole. There were four of us, Emil 
and Olaf Ellefsen, Daniel Johansen, and the writer. My 
American comrades were ill and unable to go. We had 
started very early, earlier than any other party had every 
set out in high latitudes. The sun had not yet risen, and 
the days were short and dark. Why did we start so early? 
Because the season of travel in the Arctic is a limited one, 
being restricted to the no or 115 days which elapse be- 
tween the coming of dawn and the warmer weather of early 
summer. The winter is too dark for travel; in the summer 
the surface of the ice which covers the polar sea is much 
broken up, the snow is soft and " sticky," and pockets in 
the ice are filled with sludge and water. It is anything 
but a pleasant task to crawl out of your snug winter hut, in 
the dim dawn-light, and take to the field, living in a tent, 
working like a plow-horse, and trying to sleep in a bag 
half-filled with ice in a temperature of 50 below zero. Had 

184 



A TRAGEDY OF THE FAR NORTH 

we waited a month or so the weather would have been 
better, the light brighter; but we needed every day we 
could get, every hour, and so we broke all records by set- 
ting out before the first glimpse of the sun was to be had 
at the 8oth parallel. 

Fort McKinley was our first goal. There we were to 
take on more sledges and dogs, and increase our load of 
provisions. How had our men there passed the winter 
of their exile? Was all well with them? These were im- 
portant questions, for upon the dogs and stores at the 
outpost we depended for an increase of our sledging 
strength in the race against time and distance to the north. 
Bjoervig and Bentzen had been promised that we would 
raise their siege in February, and eager were we all to 
keep our word. The storms delayed us, and at one or two 
camps the wind blew so hard that pitching our tent was 
out of the question, and we had to be content with pegging 
down its corners and crawling under — any place to escape 
the fury of the icy blasts. When better weather came we 
made hard marches, and in the afternoon of the 27th we 
had the satisfaction of seeing the ridge behind the Fort 
loom up in the white distance. 

Soon the dogs at the Fort set up a shout of welcome to 
their approaching brethren, and the latter, just to show 
what they could do when they had a personal object in 
view, started off at a rapid run, dragging sleighs, men and 
all after them, although hitherto they had crawled at a 
snail's pace and had made progress at all only when helped 
by their drivers. At the foot of the hill the men stopped 
and held the excited teams that I might walk on before and 
be the first to greet the two exiles. But aside from an 
overturned boat, half buried in the snow, a collection of 
empty biscuit and provision tins and a group of dogs 
chained to the top of a bank of ice. I could see nothing 
whatever resembling a human habitation. " The hut is 
just before you, sir, right behind the dogs," said Emil 
Ellefsen, who had been here before. 

There is not an atom of superstition in my mental com- 
position. I never had a presentiment or anything of that 
sort. But it is the plain truth that as I picked my way up 
the rough snow-bank and through an array of long-haired 

185 



THE WHITE WORLD 

dogs, all howling and leaping and straining at their leashes, 
I knew something had gone wrong at the hut. 

That instant a rough human figure emerged from the 
mouth of a tunnel leading down into the snow-bank. The 
man held a rifle in his hand. He was dressed in furs. His 
face was as black as a stoker's. 

" Bjoervig, how are you? " 

" I am well, sir, but — but poor Bentzen is dead." 

We stood silent for a moment, hands grasped, and look- 
ing into each other's eyes. A tear trickled down upon 
Bjoervig's black cheek and froze there. Then his coun- 
trymen came up, and when he told them the news these 
simple-hearted fellows were as dumb as I had been. It 
was Bjoervig who did the talking. We only listened and 
watched him, being but dimly conscious of the true nature 
of the tragedy within whose shadow we stood. Bjoervig 
talked and laughed and cried by turns. But he did not 
forget his hospitality. He was both a man and a Norse- 
man. 

" Come in, sir, come in and have some hot coffee. You 
must be tired from your journey." 

He dived down into the mouth of the tunnel, pulling me 
after him. First we entered a cavern in the snow where a 
mother dog lay nursing a hairy, squeaking little brood. 
Hardy puppies these, opening their eyes and gulping milk 
in a temperature 70 degrees below freezing. The mother 
dog licked Bjoervig's hand and growled at me. Now we 
went down on our hands and knees and crawled through 
an opening in the rock wall of the hut. A bear-skin was 
hung there for a door. Once inside I tried to stand erect 
and bumped my head against the frost with which the 
ceiling was covered. It was so dark in there I could see 
nothing at all, and Bjoervig led me to a seat. 

" Sit down, sir, sit down and rest yourself, and I'll have 
the coffee ready in a moment." 

At one side of the hut, in a niche in the rocky wall, a 
bit of fire was smouldering. Bjoervig put on a few pieces 
of dried driftwood and a big hunk of walrus blubber and 
the flames burst out. -Very cheerful and bright the fire 
looked, but not a particle of heat did we get from it. What 
was not used in boiling the coffee went up the chimney. 

186 



A TRAGEDY OF THE FAR NORTH 

Three feet from the flames the rocks were white with a 
thick coat of hoar-frost, and the walls and roof glittered 
like a bed of diamonds. It was a strange little den, and to 
me it seemed colder than out of doors. The brilliant fire 
was but mockery. Fairly well illuminated was the end 
of the hut where we sat, but beyond was a gloomy recess 
from which the light of the flames was cut off by a pier of 
rocks which served as a support for the roof. There was 
no window. 

Bjoervig told me about Bentzen. The poor fellow had 
been taken ill early in November. All through that month 
and December he had been unable to get out of the house, 
and most of the time he spent lying in his bag. Occasion- 
ally he was delirious. Death came the day after New 
Year. Paul paused, and for lack of something else to say 
I asked him where he had buried the body. 

" I have not buried him, sir," was the reply, " He lies in 
there," pointing to the dark end of the hut. 

" Why did you not bury him, Paul? " 

" Because, sir, I promised him I wouldn't." 

I shall never forget that moment. At first the words 
just uttered did not appear to mean very much — only that 
a dead man had not been buried. Gradually the full pro- 
portions of the tragedy dawned upon my consciousness. 
This man with the soot-blackened face had been com- 
pelled to pass two months of the Arctic night in this 
cavern with no other companion than the body of his 
friend. I lit a little oil-lamp and made my way into the 
dark end of the hut On the floor at my feet lay a one- 
man sleeping-bag of reindeer skin, empty, with a blanket 
tumbled over it, and showing signs of occupancy the 
night before. Just beyond, within arm's reach, lay a sim- 
ilar bag. This one was occupied. The flap at the top had 
been pulled carefully over the face of the sleeper within. 
Bag and contents were frozen as hard as a rock. 

There, side by side, the quick and the dead had slept 
for eight weeks! 

As I looked at this weird scene amid the shadows under 
the scintillating roof of hoar-frost, and thought of the long 
days that were as black as night and the long nights that 
were no blacker than the days, that this thing had been so, 

187 



THE WHITE WORLD 

and of the ordeal it is for any one of us when compelled at 
home to sit even for a single night with companions in a 
brilliantly lighted apartment by the side of a dead friend, 
and then of this living man who had lain there absolutely 
alone by the side of the dead through days, nights, weeks 
and months of silent vigil, I marvelled that Paul Bjoervig 
was still sane. 

But he was sane. He was wholly rational. Now and 
then his voice trembled, or a tear coursed down his black 
cheek. The long strain upon his courage, his stamina, his 
sanity, was at an end. So great was the relief that he 
alternately laughed and cried; and then told stories, and 
cracked jokes, trying to be his old self again. But in the 
end his emotions overcame him, and to get away from our 
curious though sympathetic gaze he would go out and 
take a walk by himself. We kept watch of him, fearful 
lest his reason might give way. But the hero of these 
two months of supreme trial was not made of the stuff that 
surrenders. He pulled himself together as fast as he 
could. That night, poking my head out of my sleeping 
bag, I saw Paul sitting by the fire — the bright, delusive fire 
that could have no effect upon the 40 below temperature in 
the hut — smoking his pipe. Thus he must have sat night 
after night during that dreadful vigil. So hard is it to 
shake off habits ! 

On the following day Paul helped us drag out the body 
of Bernt Bentzen and carefully bury it in a hole which the 
wind had hollowed out. It was a bitter dav, 45 below 
zero, and a fierce blast blowing down from the glaciers. 
But the most industrious man of us all, after the little 
funeral ceremony was over, was Paul. For hours he was 
busy chinking up all the openings in the walls around the 
rude tomb. 

" I promised him the bears and foxes shouldn't get him," 
he explained. 

They never did. To this day that lover of the great 
white world sleeps in his tomb amid the eternal rocks and 
snows of Cape Heller. 



188 



THREE FAREWELLS TO PEARY 



HERBERT LAWRENCE BRIDGMAN. 

Herbert Lawrence Bridgman was born in Am- 
herst, Mass., May, 1844. In 1894 made a voy- 
age to the Far North in the " Falcon," as a 
member of the Peary Auxiliary Expedition. 
He undertook a second and third Arctic Voy- 
age, as commander of Peary relief expeditions, 
in 1899 and 1901. 




HERBERT L. BRIDGMAN 



CURIOSITY 




THREE FAREWELLS TO PEARY 

By H. L. BRIDGMAN 



HREE times it has been my fortune to bid 
farewell to Peary as he turned his face 
to the North. Undaunted, untiring, yield- 
ing family and friends to home and coun- 
try, the fearless explorer, faithful to duty 
and ideals, looked his grim, silent antago- 
nists again eye to eye, and renewed the 
struggle between man and nature — in sim- 
plest terms, the unending duel between 
mind and matter. 

The first parting was on Tuesday, August 28, 1894, 
All the bright morning, the Falcon was plowing its way 
steadily northward, reversing its course of the day before, 
with the white west coast of Greenland fifteen or twenty 
miles to the east, and the sharp and regular outlines of 
Conical Rock almost dead ahead. The massive ice cat- 




193 



THE WHITE WORLD 

aract of the Petowik glacier grew steadily nearer and 
clearer on our port bow. We had cleared all the loose 
floating ice through which the boat could not pass, and 
about 10 o'clock it was evident that the final moment was 
close at hand. " Mat " was busy getting everything to 
rights in the whaleboat, a handsome, stately craft. Fuel 
supplies, instruments, and all being in readiness, she was 
lowered into the water. Lieutenant and Mrs. Peary were 
alone in the Falcon cabin, and here was their farewell. 

All our flags were again sent aloft, the stars and stripes, 
the auxiliary blue and white burgee, and the Falcon's 
owners' signal; and we all tried to be as gay and brave 
as possible. Hardly had the ship stopped her engines 
before Lieutenant Peary, in a full sealskin suit with hooded 
coat, came on deck, and rapidly giving every member of 
his own returning party, of the auxiliary, and the officers 
of the ship, a cordial grasp of the hand, with a personal 
" good-by," and imprinting a farewell paternal kiss upon 
the rosy unconscious cheek of his little daughter in her 
nurse's arms, he was over the rail, in the boat, and 
straightening out the natives at the oars. 

" Mat " had. the tiller and as the boat gathered way, and 
swung clear of the Falcon, all of us on board lined up on 
the rail and gave the gallant leader and his crew three of 
the most rousing cheers of our lives, to which he answered 
in clear and hearty terms, " Thank you ! A safe voyage 
home and success to all!" 

The Falcon's rusty old gun again spoke its loudest fare- 
well; the whistle gave three blasts; the helm went hard 
over; the engine went full speed ahead, and we parted 
company, one for home, friends and country; the other for 
solitude, danger and duty. 

As vision failed and lineaments became indistinct, our 
last view was of the tall, erect, fur-clad explorer, stand- 
ing amidships, and again, by the signal code bidding us 
good-by and good fortune, as his prow was p'ointed north- 
ward and poleward. Half an hour later we saw a white 
speck on the dark expanse of waters, telling us that the 
boat had set her sails to the favoring breeze, and that all 
was going: well with her gallant party. 

Etah, like other and older summer resorts, had in 1899 

194 



THREE FAREWELLS TO PEARY 

a short season and a merry one, and like them, closed it 
in a blaze of glory. Not even its great naval review, 
when the stars and stripes of America, the red ensign of 
Great Britain, and the white crosses of Norway, were 
simultaneously displayed in its little harbor — an event 
never seen on sea or land before — could match in spon- 
taneous, popular enthusiasm, the departure of the Diana 
for home on Monday morning, August 28. In the lan- 
guage of the effete South, we should say we left shortly 
after midnight; in the more correct language of Etah, 
where there is neither noon nor midnight, we departed 
soon after the sun had crossed the lower meridian. 

Hardly had Monday begun when the Diana's lines were 
cast off from the rocks, a natural pier along which she 
was moored with 70 feet of water under her keel, and riding 
at 40 fathoms of anchor chain, and the steamer slowly 
swung off into her course, heading westerly and outward, 
down the bay. On the summit of the rocky knoll, under 
the flag of his country, bareheaded, and in the familiar blue 
flannel field suit, stood Peary with his two companions 
and his faithful native allies, while strewn all along the 
cliffs in wild confusion, were the hundreds of packages, 
many tons of provisions which we had worked hard to 
land the day before, looking as if a first-class freight wreck 
on a trunk line had just occurred. All the Diana's flags, 
the stars and stripes at the fore, were flying; over Peary's 
little red caboose and on several of his tents the same flags 
were displayed, and as the propeller turned and we began 
to move, everybody cheered again. First, the quarter- 
deck winding up with a tiger; next the men on the fore- 
castle deck; then the hoarse whistle of the Diana woke 
the echoes far up the fiord, and answering from the shore 
came the response, American and Eskimo voices uniting 
in good hearty soul-stirring tones. Then the Princeton 
rifles took it up, and volley after volley pierced the air to 
be answered in like manner but in less volume from the 
shore, for ammunition to those who stay is not the burden 
to those who go, and as we steamed steadily along down 
the harbor to Sunrise Point, we watched the forms on 
the shore grow dim in the dusky dawn and mingle indis- 
tinguishably with the sombre and rocky background. Then 

195 



THE WHITE WORLD 

the red light boxes, left over from some political outburst 
in our land of the free and home of the brave, were 
brought on deck and opened, the Diana made her final 
exit from Etah with all the peculiar and mysterious glories, 
so far at least as color was concerned, of the classic and 
time-honored transformation scene. It was all easy and 
natural enough, and best of all, genuine. We had re- 
solved doubt and fear, had found Peary and his company 
well, fortune was auspicious, and we were leaving them 
thoroughly " well fixed " in body and in mind for the winter 
and the great attempt of the spring. Why should we not 
let the world know it; to Peary and to one other at least 
of the company, the pleasure and significance of the occa- 
sion were intensified by the parting on the deck of the 
Falcon. Then was the grim resolution, if not of despair, 
at least of the never-say-die, American pluck. 

The Erik on the last Wednesday of August, 1901, was 
laboring around the unnamed point, guarding the northern 
side of Herschel Bay, on the east side of Smith Sound, and 
about ten miles south of Peary's headquarters at Payer 
Harbor. In every direction seaward, only impenetrable 
ice could be seen, and but a narrow channel of water like a 
canal, not enough with which to handle the ship with any 
degree of safety, was available. Four days before, Peary 
had said to me, " There is evidently an undercurrent of 
feeling on the ship that you are to remain for the winter; 
that the Erik cannot free herself from the ice, and that it 
will be impossible to go home. But I want to assure you 
that there is not one chance in a hundred of this; under no 
circumstances will we take any avoidable risk; we will 
stand by and work along the shore as far as possible, when 
if we find that we cannot reach Payer Harbor, we will then 
land our Eskimo, dogs, meats and supplies, in a safe and 
accessible camp, and I will do the rest myself." 

Herschel Bay shaped like a horsehoe, and, perhaps, a 
couple of miles in depth, and half that in breadth, is admir- 
ably adapted for Peary's purpose, and it was doubly gratify- 
ing and significant that upon his first reconnoissance on 
the southeastern point, where he decided to make his 
camp, he found evidence of former settlement, showing 
clearly that the place had been, in the old time, inhabited. 

196 



THREE FAREWELLS TO PEARY 

No sooner had Peary selected the site for his camp than 
there were bustle and activity on board the Erik. Not so 
much that we were eager to get rid of our leader, but that 
it was imperative on every account that the favorable con- 
ditions should be improved, and that we should land all 
our stores and supplies before the ice could, by a change 
of wind, come in and drive us out. Every man and boat 
was set at work, and in two hours or less the tents were 
up, the natives were on shore, and the beginning of a 
booming town of the mining variety was visible; all the 
dogs and all the meat were landed on the opposite shore, 
and before we " turned in " that night, the greater part of 
the work of debarkation was completed. Next morning 
Mrs. Peary and Miss Peary visited the new encampment, 
and the remaining articles of equipment and stores were 
taken over in the boat, so that by the time dinner was 
announced, practically everything was ready for the final 
departure. 

Lowering the boat, first went the natives, the gallant 
fellows who had stood faithfully by their leader in many 
arduous marches and weary campaigning, obeying him 
with implicit fidelity; then the ever-faithful " Mat," who 
handled the natives with a tact and skill which amounted 
almost to genius, and then Peary himself, after the last 
good-by and hand-grasp with every one of us, who bade 
him Godspeed. It was not strange at all, that when little 
Marie said in broken accents to the loyal steward, " Good- 
by Charlie, take good care of my father," that some of us 
found a sudden attraction in the main truck, where our 
stars and stripes were flying, and that we all of us realized 
that this was one of the moments which may be historic. 
Mrs. Peary, on the quarter deck, bade her husband fare- 
well, and then with the same self-possession and confidence 
which are a part of his nature, Peary himself went over the 
side and into the boat, amid our cheers and the volley of 
our rifles. 

In a few minutes came the inevitable transition from 
the sublime to the commonplace. Mr. Peary, in the hurry, 
had left his mittens, and down from the bridge came a 
member of the party with them in his hands. Quickly 
lowering the boat, I jumped into it, and was rowed across 

197 



THE WHITE WORLD 

a half mile or so to the camp. Peary seeing us, came 
down to the edge of the ice-foot, and there, handing him 
the mittens, I received again the final hand-grasp; as 
strong, as confident, and as loyal as ever, and pledging 
again hope, faith and success. Returning to the Erik, 
Peary called me back. " Keep your flags up," said he, 
"until you are clear of the ice; we will see you through 
our glasses, and when we can no longer make out your 
flags, then we shall know that you are safely on the way 
home." Peary's injunction was obeyed, our flags were 
flying until 6 o'clock the next morning, when to my great 
satisfaction Capt. " Sam " announced, " We are clear of 
the ice, sir." 



198 



WRECKED ON THE COAST OF 
GREENLAND 



PROFESSOR G. FREDERICK WRIGHT. 

Professor G. Frederick Wright, of Oberlin 
College, was born at Whitehall, N. Y., January, 
1838. Explored the Muir Glacier in Alaska, 
1886. Was member of the Greenland Expedi- 
tion in S. S. Miranda, 1894, to study glacial for- 
mations in the Far North. Professor Wright 
has been an extensive traveler in all parts of the 
world and a voluminous writer upon scientific 
subjects. 




PROFESSOR G. FREDERICK WRIGHT 



WRECKED ON THE COAST OF 
GREENLAND 

By G. FREDERICK WRIGHT 




N THE 7th of August, 1894, the steamer 
" Miranda," with a company of tourists 
under charge of Dr. F. A. Cook, put into 
the harbor of Sukkertoppen, on the west 
coast of Greenland, and was cordially 
greeted both by the two cultivated fami- 
lies who represented the Danish govern- 
ment in that district, and by the three or 
four hundred Eskimo who were clustered in the village 
on the rocky shores. It was designed that we should 
remain in the place but two days, while some slight repairs 
were made to the steamer, but these two days were suffi- 
cient to allow our party to make a most interesting trip 
in boats forty or fifty miles up the Isortok Fiord, which 
penetrates the pasture grounds of the few remaining rein- 
deer that have survived the introduction of firearms into 
Greenland. The excursion was doubly interesting from 
the fact that two or three glaciers enter the fiord through 
tributary valleys leading down from the main Greenland 
icefield, which stretches for an indefinite distance to the 
northeast, and which we were subsequently to visit. 

We were back at Sukkertoppen on the 9th, ready to 
start for the far north. As is well known, the " Miranda " 
was not a fortunate ship. On our way up we had run 
into an iceberg in the Straits of Belle Isle, which stove a 
great hole in her iron plates above the water line; but 
fortunately the sea was calm, and we were near St. Charles 
Harbor in Labrador, where we put in for temporary relief, 

203 



THE WHITE WORLD 

and then returned to St. John's, Newfoundland, for per- 
manent repairs. Nothing daunted, however, we had set 
out again for the Greenland shores, and, after much trouble 
in getting through the floe ice, had attained our present 
position, though two weeks belated. Nevertheless, we 
now ventured out to see what we could in the time left at 
our disposal. 

But ill fortune still attended us. A dangerous reef 
stretches nearly across the mouth of the harbor of Sukker- 
toppen. The depth of water over this is such that ordi- 
nary vessels can in calm weather sail freely across it. But 
the " Miranda " was not an ordinary vessel, and the sea 
was not calm when we started out. Moreover, our native 
pilot had left us before the critical point was reached. We 
turned north a little too soon, and the swells which lifted 
us and let us down dropped us three times upon the rocks, 
and then carried us over into deep water. It was a bust- 
ling time on deck until we were calmed by the ship car- 
penter, who, after measuring the water in the hold, in- 
formed us that there was no immediate danger. But our 
captain decided that discretion was the better part of valor, 
and returned immediately to the anchoring-place in Suk- 
kertoppen. Here it was found that the injuries were such 
as to render the " Miranda " unseaworthy, and it suddenly 
dawned upon us that we were shipwrecked on the coast of 
Greenland under conditions which rendered escape con- 
siderably doubtful. For there was a large company of us — 
ninety-three in all, counting the crew — with provisions 
only sufficient to last us two months; while the Greenland 
colonies are so small that the addition of such a party as 
ours for the winter would be sure to exhaust their means 
of subsistence, and produce a general famine. 

However, we all put on a bold face, and made every 
preparation that was possible to relieve the anxiety of our 
friends at home, while we left no stone unturned to extri- 
cate ourselves from our hazardous position. The first 
thing we all did was to sit down and write letters home. 
These we dispatched by some swift kayaks (the long-, 
pointed skin-boat of the Eskimo) which hastened south- 
ward three hundred miles to Ivigtut, from which vessels 
were going to start in two or three days for Copenhagen. 

204 








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WRECKED ON THE COAST OF GREENLAND 

The faithfulness of our Greenland messengers was attested 
by the arrival of these letters, bringing cheerful words to 
our wives and sweethearts, a month or two after we, our- 
selves, had put in a safe appearance. 

News came to us at Sukkertoppen that there was a 
Gloucester fishing schooner off the banks of Holstenberg, 
about a hundred miles to the north. The assistance of 
this schooner seemed to open the only prospect of escape; 
so a boat, under the charge of Dr. Cook, was sent imme- 
diately to work its way along the coast, and endeavor to 
find the vessel, and to secure the good offices of its captain 
and crew. As we could not hope to get relief short of 
ten days or two weeks, a party of seven or eight imme- 
diately prepared to make an excursion thirty miles north- 
ward to the glaciers, which come into the head of Ikamiut 
Fiord, almost exactly upon the Arctic Circle. It is to 
some of the experiences of this excursion that the atten- 
tion of the reader is more specifically invited. 

The expedition started in the middle of the afternoon. 
One large boat and two dories were required to carry us 
and our equipment, while three kayakcrs accompanied us 
for our protection and assistance. The swells which came 
in from the southwest were long and high until we 
reached the lee of a line of islands, in which our guides 
were careful to keep us as much as possible. In due time 
great glaciers began to look down upon us from the moun- 
tain heights to the east; but they paused in their course 
long before reaching the water level. A broad opening 
to the ocean displayed itself between the islands of Sukker- 
toppen and Sermersut, and permitted the swells from two 
directions to toss us upon their capricious crests. A hard 
pull now across the mouth of Ikamiut Fiord brought us 
late at night, but still amid the splendor of the arctic 
twilight, to the settlement on the point of the promontory 
at the northern side of the fiord, where it joins the open 
channel east of the large island of Sermersut. To our 
unpracticed eyes there were no signs of human habitation 
near; but on rounding a low projection of rocks our ears 
were greeted with the indescribable jargon of a strange dia- 
lect proceeding from the throats of twenty-five or thirty 
Eskimo, young and old, who had crawled out from the 

207 



THE WHITE WORLD 

most miserable-looking human habitations that it is possi- 
ble to imagine. They were, however, friendly voices, and 
we did not scorn the help rendered us in unloading our 
boats and hauling them to a place of safety, nor the 
advice given us as to the most suitable camping-place. 

In the morning we took more careful note of our situa- 
tion, and of the condition of the people who were to be 
our neighbors. Across the channel, at a distance of about 
three miles, rose the picturesque eastern face of Sermersut 
Island to a height of something over four thousand feet, 
showing clearly the westerly dip of the strata, and con- 
cealing the vast ice fields which cover the northwestern 
slope of the island. Amid the fogs and rains and snows of 
the next two weeks this mountain outline was destined to 
fix itself in our memories in innumerable aspects which 
could never be forgotten. The interest of the scene was 
enhanced by the squalor of the igloos of the Eskimo in 
the foreground. Of these there were only three, occupied 
by twenty-five people. They consisted simply of walls of 
stone and turf about twenty feet square and three and a 
half feet high, covered over with a slightly conical turf 
roof, through which, in one or two of the cases, a stove- 
pipe protruded, for use on the occasion when a fire was 
built in the sheet-iron cylinder which served for a stove 
inside; but the turf used for fuel is usually so wet that much 
of the time a fire is entirely out of the question. 

The squalid condition of the igloos, or huts, was partly 
due to a flood which had swept over the village in the 
spring. How a flood could have risen in such a situation 
it was difficult for us to see, but the fact had to be ac- 
cepted, for the ruins of an igloo in which two or three of 
the inmates were drowned was a mute but constant witness 
to the sad event, and the vivid memories of the poor sur- 
vivors enabled them to make us understand the story, even 
when told in an unknown language, so expressive were 
their gestures and pantomimes. 

In August a small stream of pure water from the melting 
masses of snow which still lingered in the low, rocky 
mountain rising above the settlement on the east, rushed 
merrily down past the place, furnishing an unfailing supply 
for summer use. But it seems that when the deep snow's 

208 



WRECKED ON THE COAST OF GREENLAND 

were rapidly melting in the spring this channel had become 
so clogged with masses of snow and ice that the water 
deserted its natural bed, and in a manner which seemed 
incredible rushed directly across the neck of the low penin- 
sula to the side opposite from that of the natural depres- 
sion. The possibility of so destructive a flood in such a 
situation gave us an idea of the accumulation of snow in 
the winter which we could not otherwise have obtained. 
It would seem that during most of the winter the snow is 
so deep that the igloos entirely disappear beneath it. The 
entrances to them must then have looked still more like 
burrows than in the summer. 




CAMP AT IKAMIUT 



Notwithstanding this forbidding exterior of the village, 
we found the inhabitants the best of neighbors, faithfully 
practicing both the outward observances and the morali- 
ties of the Christian religion which had been taught them 
by their Danish protectors. One of their number acted as 
catechist, and conducted regular Sunday services in the 



209 



THE WHITE WORLD 

largest of the igloos; and all of the adults could read and 
write, though their outward garb was the traditional one 
which had characterized the people from the earliest times. 

On Saturday the weather was unpropitious. The wind 
blew hard, and the air was full of fog and drizzly rain. We 
were able to do little but sit in our tent and cultivate the 
acquaintance of our strange but kindly and well-disposed 
neighbors. They were curious to see everything we had, 
and to know both what it was and what is was for. It must 
be confessed also that we were equally curious to learn 
everything about them. In token of their good will, the 
women and children brought us an abundant supply of 
moss and crowberry vines with which to carpet our tent 
and to disguise the hardness of our rocky floor. 

Sunday morning came, and it was still cold and rainy. 
While we were eating our breakfast and shivering over our 
coal-oil stove in the tent, a man of mild appearance and 
diminutive stature came to the door with a hymn-book and 
a Bible in his hands, and pointed to them to indicate, as 
we surmised, that there was to be a religious service some- 
where in the settlement. But he did not linger long, and 
so silently disappeared that we did not see where he went, 
and hence were at a loss to know where the service was 
to be held, for the settlement was squalid in the extreme, 
and no one of the three igloos seemed better than the 
others. 

But on going down to our boats we heard singing in one 
of the huts. Stooping down before the low door and push- 
ing it open, and crawling through a long, narrow passage- 
way to the assembly room on our hands and knees, we 
were welcomed by motions into the most interesting 
church service I ever attended or expect ever to attend. 
To our eyes the room in itself was dreary beyond descrip- 
tion. The low walls of stone and turf were reeking with 
moisture, while water distilled freely from the sod roof in 
various places, and, as one walked along the passageways, 
spurted up from the crevices between the loose stones 
with which the floor was covered. The only dry place was 
the shelf, elevated about a foot, on the north side of the 
room, which for the regular inmates was their sleeping 
place by night and their lounging place by day. A cylin- 

210 



WRECKED ON THE COAST OF GREENLAND 

drical, sheet-iron stove near the door was now cold and 
lifeless, because the creeping vines and peat were so wet 
that it was impossible to kindle a fire. A lamp of seal oil, 
freshly distilled from raw blubber, was burning in the other 




SUKKERTOPPEN, GREENLAND 

end of the room, being the special property and care of 
the oldest woman of the household. In no place could one 
stand erect. 

Yet here was gathered the whole community for Sab- 
bath morning worship. Of course, I could not understand 
the words of their hymn, but the tune was a grand Ger- 
man choral which I had heard two years before in the 
cathedral at Cologne. All united in the singing, main- 
taining perfectly the slow, dignified, and effective move- 
ment. Then followed a sermon from the little man, who 
proved to be the catechist living in the place. This was 
delivered in the Eskimo language, and with eloquence 
and effect, though from the lowness of the room the 
speaker was compelled to remain in a sitting posture. 
The only intelligible words to me in either the sermon or 
the prayers were the amens, in which all joined. Finally 
the service was closed with another hymn sung to an 
equally impressive German choral. 



211 



THE WHITE WORLD 

Monday and several of the following days were bright 
and clear, enabling us successfully to carry out our plans 
of making botanical and zoological collections, and to 
explore the little-known icefields at the head of the fiord. 

The fiord which we planned to explore extends eight 
miles inland from the point on which we were encamped, 
and is from two to three miles wide, though from the 
clearness of the atmosphere it was difficult to make either 
of these distances seem half so great. The solemn gran- 
deur of the scenery exceeded anything which it had been 
our privilege elsewhere to behold. The mountains arose 
on either side to a height of something more than four 
thousand feet, which, indeed, is not so high as may be 
found in many other parts of the world; but the interest 
is not exhausted in the consideration of any single feature 
of the scene. Opposite to the entrance of the fiord was 
the picturesque outline of the peaks capping the island of 
Sermersut, which alone separated us from the waters of 
the ocean, while at the head of the fiord a broad projec- 
tion from the inland ice sheet came down on both sides 
of a high mountain peak to the water's level and broke 
off into icebergs, which were slowly floating outward to- 
ward the sea. 

Nothing could be more striking than the contrast be- 
tween the opposite sides of the fiord. The flanks of the 
mountains on the south side, facing the north, were deeply 
covered with snow fields and furrowed with glaciers. 
Above the snow fields a series of sharp, needle-like peaks 
projected just enough to give savage variety to the scene. 
On this flank the local glaciers presented an object-lesson 
most perfect of its kind. A series of glaciers approached 
the water level at the base of the mountain to distances 
approximately proportionate to that separating them from 
the ice front at the head of the fiord. Near the entrance 
was one coming down to within about one thousand feet 
of the water level. Farther east was one reaching to 
within about five hundred feet of the level. Farther east 
still, another came to within about three hundred feet; 
while still beyond, and within about half a mile of the 
main projection of the ice front, was one extending to the 
water's edge, and sending off miniature icebergs to aid in 
cumbering the waters of the fiord. 

212 



WRECKED ON THE COAST OF GREENLAND 

About two-thirds of the distance up the fiord there was 
a favorite haunt of various kinds of birds. At the time 
of our visit kittiwakes were there in countless numbers. 
The perpendicular precipices, for a mile or more in length 
and more than a thousand feet in height, were completely 
covered with their nests wherever there was a crag upon 
which they could be built. Indeed, the face of the cliffs was 
white with these birds as they struggled with each other 
to secure places for temporary rest, while the neighboring 
waters were covered with those who were seeking for food 
or were enjoying the luxury of a cold bath. The firing of 
our guns would be the signal for the whole colony to rise 
into the air, when it would seem as if a cloud had suddenly 
cut us off from the sunlight, while the sound of their 
strange voices, the note of which is suggested in their 
name, filled the air and completed a scene that cannot be 
equaled in interest outside of Greenland. 

The day upon the glacier was exhilarating in the ex- 
treme. After clambering over the crevasses and pinnacles 
of ice which obstructed our course for the first half mile, 
we saw a clear way before us between two medial moraines 
which came down from a high nunatak, or crest of rock, 
in the distance. While crossing one of these moraines, 
picking our way between its vast piles of stones, the two 
Eskimo who had accompanied us thus far began to lose 
courage, and in the true native style attempted to disguise 
their real state of mind by calling attention to their boots, 
saying that they were " no good," every once in a while 
uttering this ejaculation and pointing to their upturned 
soles with a despondent look. Of course we humored 
them, and permitted them to sit down with some of our 
superfluous luggage to guard. Here they remained all 
day long, apparently not having stirred from their tracks 
until we hailed them on our return. 

We followed up the vast glacier to the nunatak, which 
proved to be fully seven miles back from the front and 
to about equally divide the vast ice streams which poured 
down on either side of it. The total width of the glacier 
at this point we estimated to be six or seven miles, and at 
the base of the nunatak we were not far from two thousand 
feet above sea level. Eastward there was nothing but the 

213 



THE WHITE WORLD 

horizon to obstruct our view. We were looking out 
upon the same snow fields which had greeted our vision 
from Isortok Fiord two weeks before, only now we were 
on the field itself. Then we had viewed it from the side, 
at right angles to our present vision. The imagination 
now came in, with its subtle power, to intensify the inter- 
est of the occasion. With the mind's eye there was nothing 
to hinder our looking across the whole vast waste of per- 
petual snow stretching to the east coast of Greenland. 
This was verily a part of the inland ice. 

Nor was the interest of the backward glance much less 
impressive. The glacier at the head of Ikamiut Fiord was 
only half of what was within our vision. The mountain 
upon the south side, whose hanging glaciers had so en- 
chanted our vision from our camping-place, divided the 
glacier we were exploring into two nearly equal portions. 
One half was pouring into the fiord on the south, through 
whose long vista we could distinctly see the distant islands 
in the bay of Sukkertoppen. At various distances along 
this fiord icebergs glittered in the light of the declining 
sun, showing that the ice front at the head of that fiord 
was similar to that in the one which we had more particu- 
larly examined. 

As before remarked, these glaciers on the south side 
were all of them thicker near the base of the mountain 
than at their higher levels. Indeed, they seemed to run 
down like cold tar and to thicken at the base as a stiff 
semi-fluid would under the action of gravity. Usually the 
more rapid melting at the lower levels causes the glacier 
to thin out near the foot, but here the temperature in the 
shade is so near the freezing point that the ice melts 
about as fast near the upper portions of the glaciers as 
it does at the base. 

Another phenomenon illustrating the nature of the 
movement going on in great glaciers was seen here to 
special advantage. - Where the great ice sheet abutted 
against the mountain which divided its front into two 
portions, it was pushed up by the momentum of the move- 
ment so as to be two or three hundred feet higher at the 
base of the mountain than it was a mile away. Indeed, 
a half mile or so back there was a distinct depression 

214 



WRECKED ON THE COAST OF GREENLAND 



in the glacier, with the ice higher all around it. It was 
just such a depression as is made where a current of water 
is obstructed by some obstacle; the current pushes a con- 
siderable distance up the obstruction, and then breaks 
over the sides to go around it; but ice, being much less 
fluid than water, moves off 
in larger swells and more 
gradual curves. 

But even an Arctic after- 
noon has its close. With 
regret we sought our boats 
and set out on the return, to 
go again through the mag- 
nificent panorama of the 
morning. The day had been 
one never to be forgotten. 
With the pure air making 
everything clear within the 
range of vision; with the 
consciousness that we were 
treading where other human 
feet had probably never trod, 
and were looking on scenes 
that few, if any, others would 
ever see ; amid a solitude 
that was unbroken by living objects except here and 
there a passing bird or a wary fox, whose tracks sur- 
prised us on the newly fallen snow; with gurgling streams 
of purest water from the melting ice all about us, hasten- 
ing in channels of deepest blue to plunge at last with 
deafening roar into some mysterious moulin — the senses 
were overburdened with material for the imagination to 
seize upon and work up into pictures of scientific form 
and poetic fancy. We tried in vain to answer the ques- 
tion which involuntarily arose, Why is there so much 
waste of beauty and grandeur beyond the reach of ordinary 
mortals ? 

One of the most interesting results of our various ex- 
cursions was the evidence collected showing that even the 
Greenland glaciers are smaller than thev once were. 
Greenland, too, has had its glacial period, when the whole 




A FAMILY GROUP 



215 



THE WHITE WORLD 

border as well as the interior was covered with glacial ice. 
Everywhere on the mountain sides there were remnants 
of glacial deposits and of glacial scratching and polishing, 
which bore evidence that formerly all the channels open- 
ing out to the sea had been full to the top with moving 
glacial ice. Whether the volume of ice was sufficient to 
entirely fill Davis Strait and join Greenland to North 
America is more than any one can tell. But that the whole 
mountainous western border was enveloped with the ice 
mass, and that icebergs, far more numerous than those 
which now incumber the North Atlantic, were poured 
forth from the fiords of Southern Greenland as well as 
from the northern portion of the vast island, is rendered 
certain. 

Soon after returning to Sukkertoppen, we were cheered 
by the appearance of the white sails of the splendid fish- 
ing yacht " Rigel," from Gloucester, Massachusetts, under 
charge of Captain Dixon, one of the noblest specimens 
of humanity that ever lived. By rare good fortune the 
party we had sent north had succeeded in finding him, 
and he with all his crew had heartily hastened to our 
relief. Thinking it was still possible for the "Miranda" to 
steam across Davis Strait to the coast of Labrador, it 
was resolved to place all the excursionists upon the 
" Rigel," and to let the " Miranda " take us in tow. 

The " Rigel " was a fast sailing yacht, about one hun- 
dred feet in length and of one hundred tons burden. It 
was already half full of fish, but these were spread over 
the bottom of the middle hold and covered with salt, over 
which a tarpaulin was laid. There were fifty-one excur- 
sionists to find room in the craft, in company with the 
eighteen members of the crew, making sixty-nine in all. 
With such crowded quarters, of course we were not able 
to take anything with us but the barest necessities of 
clothing; every superfluous moving thing belonging to the 
boat was cast overboard. Those who were assigned to 
the middle hold were packed together like sardines in a 
box, it being scarcely possible for one to turn over with- 
out the whole companv doing the same. 

It was a beautiful bright morning when we set out upon 
our homeward voyage. Our hospitable Danish friends 

2T6 



WRECKED ON THE COAST OF GREENLAND 

came out upon the harbor in small boats, while the Eskimo 
gathered in clusters on all the surrounding rocky promi- 
nences, a trained company of them saluting us with fire- 
works as, just at the point of departure, the Star-spangled 
Banner was hoisted upon the " Rigel," and the whole com- 
pany joined in singing: — 

" My country, 'tis of thee, 
Sweet land of liberty." 

With the tears rolling down the face of Captain Dixon 
as well as of many others, the steamer started on its ad- 
venturous trip. 

For twelve hours the sea was smooth and everything 
went well; the "Rigel" following the "Miranda" at the 
end of a cable several hundred feet long, and it was re- 
ported that we had gone ninety-six miles. Twenty-four 
hours more passed without special incident and without 
any occasion to communicate with the crew on the " Mi- 
randa." We had then gone one hundred and ninety-two 
miles farther, making two hundred and eighty-eight miles 
in all. But heavy swells were rolling in upon us as the 
effect of a storm to the south, and at midnight the sign of 
distress was run up from the steamer. Our captain 
shouted for all the crew to come on deck, and the others 
to stay below; but we did not all of us obey. The scene 
for the next few hours is the memory of a lifetime. 

We were informed from the " Miranda " that the leak 
in the bottom had become unmanageable, so that she 
must be abandoned in a short time, and we were requested 
to come up nearer to her. But this our captain refused to 
do lest we should all be pulled down together. A man 
was stationed with an ax to cut the hawser in case of 
immediate danger, and we all lay rolling upon the mighty 
swells till we could get the crew from the " Miranda " 
safely on board. After two or three hours of hard strug- 
gling with the elements, a boatload came almost within 
reach of the " Rigel," but was repeatedly carried away from 
us by the angry waves. At last, however, one after an- 
other were all taken on board, the cable connecting the 
two vessels was cut loose, and the " Miranda," with the 
lights all burning, the smoke and steam coming out of 

217 



THE WHITE WORLD 

her funnel, and her rudder lashed to one side, was left 
to steam away from us in the mist and darkness, finally 
to become a derelict on the face of the deep and to seek 
her unknown fate; while we escaped from the scene as 
fast as the wind would carry us. 

There were now ninety-two men upon this little craft, 
with a limited amount of water and provisions, to make 
our way to some port from which we could reach home. 
When we lined up on deck, we filled it from stem to stern, 
and were happier in the loss of all our possessions than we 
had been at any previous time of our eventful trip, since 
hope now so strongly overtopped all other emotions. 
After two weeks of such close companionship, during 
which we sailed past some of the most majestic ice- 
bergs that float upon the ocean, and encountered many 
other scenes of great interest along the coast of Labrador, 
we reached the harbor of Sidney, and telegraphed to our 
homes the news of our safety. Not a hair of our heads 
had been injured, and we all came home wiser if poorer 
men, while the interest in our experiences has been so 
increased with the lapse of time that they are among the 
most cherished memories of our lives. 




ANCIENT HARBOR OF LIEVELY, DISKO, GREENLAND 



218 



LIFE IN THE ARCTIC REGIONS 



PROFESSOR WILLIAM H. BREWER. 

Prof. Wm. H. Brewer, of Yale University, was 
born in Poughkeepsie, N. Y., September, 1828. 
He was a member of Expedition on S. S. " Mi- 
randa," 1894. Harriman Alaska Expedition, 
1899. Study of Arctic phenomena in general. 




PROF. W. H. BREWER 



LIFE IN THE ARCTIC REGIONS 

By Professor WILLIAM H. BREWER 




[SPECTS which life assumes in the Arctic 
regions are a delight to the traveler. 
Its abundance is a surprise alike to the 
unscientific summer visitor and to the 
naturalist, while its variety seems to be 
illogical and contrary to what we should 
expect of nature. Vegetation grows large 
and abundant only in warmer climates and warmer waters; 
and as animal life is dependent on the vegetable kingdom 
for food, directly or indirectly, we might naturally expect 
the living things to be very different from what they actu- 
ally are in the Arctic regions. 

In warm climates, individual plants are very much larger 
than anything of the animal kind found there. Even the 
elephant is small compared with some of the majestic 
trees which shelter it. In the cold regions there are no 
trees, the woody shrubs may be stunted to a finger's length 
in height, yet the musk-ox thrives on the scanty herbage, 
and the white bear, among the largest of the bear kind, 
frequents the shores or seeks its food upon the ice-floes. 
None of the greater sea-weeds flourishes there, yet the 
ponderous walrus and more gigantic whale sport amid 
those icy waters. 

In sunny nooks among the rocks, in Greenland, Alaska, 
and Siberia alike, there is a profusion of small plants, 
warmed into life in the long days of the short summer, 
the beauty of whose flowers delight the beholder. Gor- 
geous colors abound, and often the large size and bril- 
liancy of the flowers seem out of all proportion to the 
size of the stems which support them. I have found some 
of the same species near the perpetual snows on mountain 
summits of the Sierra Nevada of California and on the 

223 



THE WHITE WORLD 

high peaks of the Rocky mountains, but the Alpine speci- 
mens are of more robust habit, their stems are coarser, 
and their whole appearance less delicate, less succulent 
and smooth, than those of their Arctic relatives. Then, 
too, they have more down or other characteristics which 
probably protect them from the fiercer sun and drier air 
of those elevated regions. Beautiful as are Alpine flowers, 
they lack the brilliancy and delicacy of those whose bloom 
brightens the desolation of the Arctic. 

Then, too, the cold waters abound in the smaller forms of 
animal life. There are creatures that burrow in the slimy 
mud in the shallows. Some of the Alaskan marine worms 
are of great length and of brilliant colors; and there are 
small crustaceans in infinite numbers, and of many kinds, 
which furnish food for fish and bird and beast. Sea-fowl 
often hover in cloud-like flocks over the water, pursuing 
this small prey. 

The whales are always of special interest. To the child 
and schoolboy no other tales about the savage world have 
a greater fascination than stories about whales. The ad- 
ventures incurred in hunting the whale form a precious 
portion of the literature for youth, and few of us ever get 
entirely over the liking for it. 

We saw numerous whales on the Harriman Alaskan 
Expedition, and of several species, but no such large indi- 
viduals as we saw in the Greenland seas on the " Last 
Cruise of the Miranda." On our way home, in the Bering 
Sea, north of the Aleutian Islands, we saw an extensive 
school of whales. Speaking as a landsman, a " herd " of 
whales would seem like a better term. It extended for 
miles apparently to the northern horizon; the whales were 
not close together, but seemed to go in pairs, apparently 
feeding rather than playing, and most of them traveling 
in the same direction, blowing as they came to the surface, 
and showing often an enormous extent of back before 
diving again. There must have been two> score or more 
of them, but not often were more than three or four in 
actual sight at once. Six was the largest number I saw 
blowing at the same instant. Great flocks of screaming 
sea-birds swept over the same waters, for that was their 
pasture also. 

224 



LIFE IN THE ARCTIC REGIONS 

The whale fisheries of the Bering Sea and the Arctic 
Ocean beyond, are the most extensive of any that have 
been pursued oi late years, and the most dangerous. We 
met a fleet of whalers at Port Clarence, just below Bering 
Strait, waiting the retreat of the ice of the Arctic Ocean 
from the American coast! Then they would penetrate 
eastward, where the business is the most profitable, but is 
attended with peculiar dangers. In Baffin Bay the whalers 
fear being frozen in; here the greatest danger is of a very 
different kind. The great Arctic ice-pack retreats north- 
ward in summer, it returns as the season advances, and is 
driven against the American coast, and woe to the vessel 
that does not escape to the west of Point Barrow, or get 
behind the shelter of a friendly island. The story of 
crushed vessels and of heroic adventures along that coast 
is an exciting one. 

We sometimes see white bears »and small Arctic animals 
temporarily in our zoological gardens, but those who would 
see the whale and the walrus must visit them at their own 
homes; it will be some time before they will call upon us, 
put up at our aquaria, and receive visitors there. 

Sea lions and fur seals abound along the coast of Alaska 
and its islands. The former are found at places along 
the coast as far south as Southern California, but the 
great shore resorts of the fur seal are Pribylofif Islands in 
the Bering Sea, where they resort in herds of hundreds of 
thousands, and where they furnish the most fascinating 
exhibition of wild animal life to be found on the globe. 

They spend most of their lives at sea and come to these 
islands in summer to rear their young, to shed their coats, 
and to have a social summer outing. The Pribyloff Islands 
are so much of the time hidden by fogs, that they were not 
discovered for years after being looked for by the early 
Russian hunters, who saw the seals passing every summer, 
into the Bering Sea from the Pacific Ocean. The rook- 
eries extend along the shore at intervals for miles. The 
animals begin to arrive in May, the males first, where the 
larger and stronger ones take possession of some particular 
place on the shores, preferably where there is an abundance 
of rocks. They fight with each other until the victors 
have established a title to a homestead. They are zealous 

225 



THE WHITE WORLD 

polygamists, and the females, arriving in June, are gathered 
into these respective families. The larger harems contain 
twenty or thirty females, but smaller ones are the most 
numerous. Over each harem an old male presides, perched 
on some rock in the midst of his family where he can have 
them all under his eye and watch the approach of encroach- 
ing rivals. All of the males by no means succeed in being 
polygamists, but the patriarch with a single wife is as 
zealous in guarding his small family as if he were the 
wealthy owner of a dozen. The poorer individual with but 
one or two wives is usually to be found crowded as far 
away from the water as possible by his more successful 
rivals. He is, however, an interesting creature, for what he 
lacks in wealth of family, he makes up in his demonstra- 
tions of zeal in its defence. 

We visited the rookeries on St. Paul Island early in 
July. Although the herds are very much smaller than for- 
merly they seemed immense, and thousands together were 
wriggling about their respective locations, or sporting in 
the adjacent waters. On the shore they are as closely 
associated as a flock of sheep in a pasture, stretching along 
the beach by thousands — denser here, sparser there. 

The males are four or five times as large, in weight, as 
the females. They are six or seven feet long and weigh 
four hundred pounds, more or less. We call these animals 
popularly " seals," but they are very unlike the true seals 
or hair seals, some species of which are found in the same 
waters, and of which still other kind occur in great numbers 
about the North Atlantic coast, especially of Greenland and 
along the coast of Labrador. The fur seals are unlike them 
in looks and motions, and eminently unlike them in be- 
havior during that portion of their lives which is spent out 
of the water. 

Prompted by their natural instincts, these herds are 
organized into communities which seem to be governed 
by rules, almost as well defined and as strictly followed 
as the laws which govern savage communities of man- 
kind. We are told that the time of their coming and 
going, the preempting and defence of claims, the guarding 
of the family, the breaking of the camps and disorganiza- 
tion of the community before leaving, the time and order 

226 



LIFE IN THE ARCTIC REGIONS 

of leaving, go on with almost the regularity of clockwork. 
All this seems so wonderful, that the animal has been 
accredited with a much higher order of intelligence than 
it, probably, actually possesses. They come in order and 
in season, and there is but little more disorder in their 
going. When they leave, they move southward and go 
through the various passes between the Aleutian Islands, 
into the broader Pacific Ocean; some of them travel down 
the Asiatic side; some are seen farther out to sea and still 
others near the American coast. They, certainly go as 
far southward as the latitude of California, then return by 
somewhat different routes. Such a voyage could never 
be done by mere intelligence. But what wonderful instincts 
guide them? After a trip of a thousand, sometimes over 
two thousand miles they return to their fog-veiled islands 
as surely as if the track had been planned on chart 
and the creatures guided by compass. And they arrive at 
just the right time; the males first, to locate the home, the 
females later. The young are born within a few days after 
landing and are reared on the shore, for the young seals 
cannot swim until two or three months old. When they 
have grown large enough to take care of themselves, have 
learned how to swim well, and can fish for themselves, they 
start with their parents on their long voyage southward. 
All this goes on with the precision of an army under orders. 

But what a fascinating sight they present when on shore! 
Sailors in port are not more frolicsome or in more fighting 
mood. When we come too near, the male who is most 
interested in the intrusion, advances and barks and growls 
ominously, opens his big mouth which is much like that of 
a large St. Bernard dog in shape but much larger in size, 
and studded with rows oi sharp, glistening, white teeth, 
and says as plainly as animals can say, " Stop " — " Don't 
come any nearer" — "Be off" — "I don't want you here." 
You instinctively retreat a few steps, he stops his demon- 
strations as much as to say, "That'll do at present," oc- 
casionally barking to let you know that he means what 
he says. 

They have the least fear of man of any other large wild 
animal. We cannot call them " wild " in the most popular 
sense of the word. They will fearlessly allow one to come 

227 



THE WHITE WORLD 

to within a few feet of them before they will actively resent 
a closer approach. 

Thus guarding his family, the patriarch is an impressive 
beast. He is awkward in his progress, which is a sort 
of compound motion made up of hitching and crawling, 
the head erect and attention alert. The eyes are large, 
dark blue, and peculiarly expressive; now glistening with 
ferocity, as he warns you not to come too close to his 
harem. You retreat a few steps, and the next moment 
the same eyes beam on you with a mild serenity, so genial 
in expression that you slowly and cautiously again advance, 
perhaps camera in hand, to get a closer snapshot. While 
adjusting your focus, suddenly comes the warning voice, 
and he advances a foot or two; the eyes glitter again, their 
expression heightened by the wide open mouth and gleam- 
ing teeth; then you retreat again and peace is declared, 
but the snapshot has been lost. 

The charm of the scene is indescribable. Happening at 
a specially favorable place for observation, I stayed there 
by the hour, although there were not more than a thousand 
or two seals near me. Half a mile farther on they were 
very much more numerous, tempting me to proceed and 
see them in still greater numbers, but I spent most of my 
time while on shore watching the community at this one 
spot, with shorter visits to some still more limited groups. 

The scene where the families are crowded closer together 
is always an animated one. Some are playing, some sleep- 
ing, the males on guard alert; every few minutes turning 
to some near neighbor who may be watching his own 
harem, growling and barking defiance with much opening 
of the mouth. But most of this seems after all to be 
merely " bluff; " the actual fighting has been accomplished, 
rights are already established, and the camp has settled 
down to family life. These manifestations are perhaps 
only intended to mean, " Now, keep away," or " I've my 
eye on you!" 

The voice is very unlike that of the common seal, or 
hair seal, but not nearly so impressive as that of the sea 
lion, which is the nearest relative of the fur seal. The 
sea lion's voice has the lowest pitch in tone of any animal 
sound with which I am acquainted. Years ago I was 

228 



LIFE IN THE ARCTIC REGIONS 

familiar with it as heard in various places on the California!! 
coast, from the rocks of St. George on the northern border, 
southward to near Point Conception. Especially when it 
broke the stillness of night was it impressive. More than 
once, sleeping on the ground, in my blanket near shore, 
I have been awakened by that deep guttural note, and 
have listened to that loud but low-pitched voice mingled 
with the sounds of the winds and breakers. I think it the 
mo'St impressive of the sounds of the night I have ever 
heard in the loneliness incident to exploration near a 
rocky shore. The scream of the panther in a mountain 
forest may be more startling but is much less impressive. 

Some of the Harriman party visited a great rookery of 
sea lions on the volcanic islands of Bogoslov, near the 
Aleutians. I did not go there, but I had seen enough of 
sea lions years before to appreciate the enthusiastic com- 
ments of one of the party who did go. " It is the sight of 
a lifetime; nothing else in the. world like it!" 

A few days after leaving the Pribyloff Islands, the Harri- 
man Expedition anchored in Plover Bay, in Northeastern 
Siberia, near Bering Strait. A low and narrow sandspit 
extends into the bay from the foot of the steep and pictur- 
esque bluffs on one side. On the outer end of the spit is 
a small Eskimo village. It was evident that there had been 
a village here for a very long time and apparently it had 
once been very populous. 

The people of this tribe are unlike any other Eskimo 
I have ever seen. They differ from the Alaskan Eskimo 
whom we visited the next day, on the other side of the 
strait, less than two hundred miles distant, and are very 
unlike the Eskimo of Greenland and of Northern Labrador. 
They are somewhat larger than the Alaskan tribe, and 
very much larger than the Greenland and Hudson Bay 
Eskimo; and they have a very different type of counte- 
nance. The men are well formed, some of them extremely 
so. This is due to the admixture with the Chuckchee 
blood of North Eastern Siberia. The men have the crown 
shaved, as do the Chuckchees, the tonsure encircled 
by a rather broad strip of very stiff and not very long 
hair. The countenances are very unlike the Greenland 
Eskimo. The nose is not so small and is straighter, the 

229 



THE WHITE WORLD 

eyes appear less inclined. The people are more robust in 
every way, have apparently more intellectual capacity, and 
with probably more natural strength of character and more 
barbarous instincts. They were no cleaner than their 
Greenland relatives. They were clother in skins, mostly 
reindeer, and they live on the product of the sea. The 
bones of whales were scattered about in great abundance 
and were used for a variety of purposes. Whale's skulls 
were numerous. Some of them, half burried in the soil, 
weather-worn and moss covered, looked as if they might 
have been there for centuries. 

But little drift-wood comes to this desolate coast and 
whalebones are turned to a variety of uses as a substitute 
for wood. Whale ribs constitute the posts and other sup- 
ports of the Eskimo homes, more crooked ribs made a 
fireplace to hang the pot; the vertebrae are used in many 
ways. I noticed a shoulder blade used as a door for a 
summer tent, while another was used for a sort of table. 

In winter they live in large houses made by erecting 
posts of the larger and straighter whale ribs, filled in be- 
tween with rods making the wall, the whole covered with a 
roof of walrus hide. In summer, when the floor of these 
become too wet and muddy, they live in tents made of 
walrus hide. 

These simple people are very friendly and were evidenly 
pleased to see us. Mr. Harriman distributed presents 
among them. The tobacco was very highly appreciated, 
and there was apparently some regret that it was not 
accompanied with whiskey. I was much amused at the 
look of wonder of one of the women as she opened the 
package given her and saw a gay necklace, strung with 
large glass pearls. She seemed not to know what it was. 

The dress of the men, women and children is very like 
that of the eastern Eskimo. The women carry the smaller 
children on the back within the ample garment. The head 
usually protrudes, but sometimes no head is seen: a motion 
like that of a cat in a bag suggests what is there. 

The Asiatic Eskimo, like their neighbors in Alaska, are 

wasting away, because of the visits of civilized people, and 

the close of the century will probably find them extinct as 

a people, now that gold hunters as well as whalers visit 

the Arctic coast. 

230 



PHOTOGRAPHY IN THE FAR NORTH 



RUDOLF KERSTING. 

Rudolf Kersting was born in Hanau, Ger- 
many, 1856. Photographer to Greenland Ex- 
pedition on S. S. " Miranda," under command 
of Dr. F. A. Cook, 1894. Alaska, 1891. 




RUDOLF KERSTING 



PHOTOGRAPHY IN THE FAR NORTH 

By RUDOLF KERSTING 




•KAMIUT is the most properly named place on 
earth, " a place without shelter," and still we had 
pitched our camp on this place, for want of a 
better one. I was detailed to go to the interior 
of Greenland with several prominent professors 
of geology, myself to do photographing, while 
these scientific men would examine the ice and 
land formations. Rowing twenty miles toward 
Ikamiut, not a place was visible along the precipi- 
tately rising walls of basaltic rock bordering the 
fiords, where a landing could be made. Eskimo guides 
in their skin kayaks, darting all about us, picked up dozens 
of fine ducks which were shot along the route. Three or 
four little stone houses covered with sod, and a populatio-n 
of about eight Eskimo, constituted the settlement of Ika- 
miut. I could not understand why people would live in 
them, until I learned that it was a first class place for 
catching codfish. These people caught codfish all summer, 
and dried them for winter use. It was a filthy, ill-smelling 
place; much fog and rain, bringing despair to a photog- 
rapher. Everything was wet and at the same time it 
was never dark enough to change photographic plates, even 
in the middle of the night. 

Clear weather was promised for the next day and every- 
thing was made ready for our expedition, the purpose of 
which was to ascend a glacier at the head of the fiord. 
My camera was of large size, and I had very compact plates 
eight by ten inches. A military knapsack carrying nine 
double plate holders, and a tripod was supported by straps 
on each shoulder. These holders had to be reloaded, and 
for that purpose no white light is permissible. Inside of 
our tent, with dark blankets, we arranged a place where 

235 



THE WHITE WORLD 



I could lie on my stomach and with difficulty manage this 
job, nearly suffocating for want of air and melting with 
perspiration. 

Then crawling with my partners into the sleeping-bag, 
I found the icewater melting from a glacier above, the 

result of a previous rain, filtering 
into our tent, and before morning 
we were soaking wet. I got out 
about 5 o'clock and walked twenty 
steps to the waters edge. There, 
under the direction of a fat Eskimo 
girl, with only a seal-skin line and 
a hook without bait, I pulled out 
half a dozen large rock-cod, rang- 
ing from two to four pounds each. 
Half an hour after catching the 
fish, we had them fried and eaten. 
A four-mile row brought us to 
the foot and side of the glacier, 
though not without considerable 
trouble, for the Eskimo are super- 
stitious and are afraid to go near 
glaciers ; they never think of going 
upon them alone. It is in a certain 
sense dangerous, for large bergs 
breaking off make no little com- 
motion and may easily upset a boat. 
The roaring of cracking, breaking, 
sea birds pushing masses of ice, millions of 

tons, sounds like that of thunder and 
of battle. Our enthusiastic professors with nothing but alpen 
stocks and note-books, started at once to climb upward on the 
smoothest side and I, after making several exposures of the 
front view, followed in their tracks. I saw no geological 
problems, but a beauty of form and color which almost 
paid me for all the trouble of coming to Greenland. The 
blue sky, the white snow, the dark waters, and the colors 
of ice, ranging from lightest blue-green to darkest shades, 
all was exquisite. 

Fissures and crevasses made ascent difficult, and soon I 
was hot and uncomfortable, slippery, deceiving ice, holes 




236 



PHOTOGRAPHY IN THE FAR NORTH 

and rivulets, stayed my progress, narrow passages which 
the others had passed I sat upon and crossed on hands and 
knees, looking downward a hundred feet or more into bot- 
tomless pits on my left and right. Nothing but ice all 
around, save here and there a strip of gravel and large 
boulders, lateral moraines, one or two mountain peaks 
showing above the ice — all these features were photo- 
graphed; not, as one would think, under adverse circum- 



*f 




CROSSING A CREVICE 



stances, but on the contrary, under a clear blue sky, a 
brilliant sun playing upon the wonderful waste of ice, 
making beautiful reflections and refractions of the rays of 
light. 

No dust of any kind is in the atmosphere ; it is pure, 
clear air. It is easy to make good pictures under these 
conditions, if you study your light. The great difficulty 
is near the seashore, where with ordinary plates or films, 
proper exposure is next to an impossibility. 

The rocks are of a color which, like the color of grass, 
will absorb rays of light, while the water, the ice, the sky, 



237 



THE WHITE WORLD 



and the snow will reflect them. Therefore, in exposing 
for light objects, the dark ones will be under-exposed; and 
vice versa, exposing for the darker objects, the sky, ice, 
and snow will be so much exposed that they will melt into 
an opaque mass on the negative. To be certain at all, one 
should have a good dark room, and develop some plates 
daily to enable him to keep in touch with the quality of light. 
Films work better than plates, the thinness of the cellu- 
loid gives less halation and more color values, but the only 
proper outfit for Arctic photography is composed of iso- 
or orthochromatic plates to be used in conjunction with 
color screens of various density. To be prepared for all 
conditions of work in the Arctic regions a number of lenses 
from the shortest wide angle to a telephoto attachment are 
indispensable. 

One of the professors, older than the rest, had fallen 
behind the advance guard, and joined me. We sat down 

upon a projecting piece of 
ice, ate our luncheon and 
drank some of the clearest 
and finest ice-water imag- 
inable. I spoke of the sur- 
passing beauty, the fine 
color scheme, of the sur- 
roundings. He, in all 
probability, paid not the 
least attention to that, but 
gave the water on the 
glacier, the hole in the ice, 
and other things, their 
proper scientific names, and 
was happy in his way. 

According to his aneroid 
barometer, we had climbed 
upward of 3100 feet, and 
estimated that we had 
walked about five miles 
upon the eternal inland ice, 
which covers all of Green- 
land. Large nails on the soles of our shoes helped 
us along considerably, but did not always prevent a 




A SLIP 



238 



PHOTOGRAPHY IN THE FAR NORTH 




slip and a fall. As I could not carry an alpenstock, I 
had to be extremely careful on account of my camera and 
plates. But in spite of my precautions, I came near losing 
all of them, and myself as well. 

The smooth sides of this par- 
ticular glacier had a descent of 
about three hundred feet, at an 
angle of nearly forty-five degrees, 
with a running brook two feet deep 
at the bottom. Rocks and moraine 
debris formed slight projections 
where they had lodged on the ice. 
Upon these we often stepped to get 
a better foothold, but not always 
with good results. Jumping over 
a narrow crevasse about two feet 
wide, I tried to catch a foothold on 
one of these projections, but it was 
only a thin covering of earth with 
slippery ice below. 

The impetus of my jump gave 
me a good start and nothing could 
stop me from sliding down three 
hundred feet, with a prospective 
ice-water bath at the bottom. With 
photographic plates on my back, 
tripod in one hand and camera in 
the other, there was nothing to do 
but to slide down on the seat of my unmentionables. Rag- 
ged and sharp pointed pieces of ice and stone soon reduced 
my pantaloons to shreds. 

Nearer and nearer I came to the water. I closed my 
eyes, and with a sudden jerk my feet caught securely 
against a projecting piece of ice on the brink of the stream. 
The revulsion of feeling was so sudden that I lay still for 
several minutes ; then I crept along the edge to a spot where 
moraine deposits of large rocks allowed me to jump from 
one to another. Crossing to the other side and getting 
my photographic stuff together, I made my way to our 
landing place and put everything into the boat. There I 
found a piece of string to tie up the parts of my torn 
garments which had suffered most. 

239 



GETTING BREAKFAST 



THE WHITE WORLD 

Rowing to the camp late at night, a sudden storm broke 
over us, darkening the sky so that we could not see a 
hundred feet. A wind swept up the fiord, such as can 
only be found in those regions; progress was very slow, 
with uncertainty of direction. Finally we saw a light 
ahead and recognized the point in the rear of which was 
our tent. The thoughtful Eskimo guide and his assistants, 
anticipating our dilemma, had worked their hazardous way 
over rugged cliffs to the fiord, and taking the powder out 
of their cartridges, had burned it as a signal that we were 
near home, and to guide us on our way. The night was 
a most cheerless one, with constant rain, the water running 
under our sleeping-bags. 

The next day I had to unload my photographic plates; 
everything was wet and muddv, I could find no place for 
my work except the entrance of an Eskimo hut, an extension 
used as store-room and kitchen three feet high, with stone 
wall on three sides, filled with mud and moss, and without 
a covering. I put oars and Eskimo harpoons on the top, 
spread our blankets over them, and so made a fairly good 
dark room. I could just get into it and work by kneeling 
in the filthy mud. 

Half a dozen of the plates I had taken the day before 
were broken, and with the pieces I made valuable presents 
to my interested Eskimo friends and spectators, who stood 
closely around, watching the white man's magic with 
keenest interest. 



240 



A NATURALIST'S ADVENTURES 



DR. TARLETON HOFFMAN BEAN. 

Dr. Tarleton H. Bean was born in Bainbridge, 
Penn., October, 1846. He was a member of 
Coast Survey party in schooner Yukon, which 
made collections and observations in the Pa- 
cific Arctic, 1880. Revisited Alaska, 1889. 




DR. TARLETON H. BEAN 



A NATURALIST'S ADVENTURES 

By DR. TARLETON H. BEAN 




Wednesday, August ii, 1880 

ORE of this exasperating Asiatic fog this 
morning, and enough of the delectable 
swell to remind us that this world is not 
wholly a garden of roses. Up to break- 
fast time we had made comparatively little 
headway toward Plover Bay, owing to 
light wind and strong head sea. This 

same light wind and head sea continued all the way and 

we did not reach our anchorage in Port Providence, 

Plover Bay, Siberia, until 10 P. M. 

Near the entrance of Plover Bay we met the cutter 

Corwin coming out from a coaling trip. She bore toward 

[In 1880 the writer was sent to Alaska by Professor Spencer F. Baird, 
to collect natural history materials for the United States National 
Museum. By permission of the Superintendent of the United States 
Coast Survey, and at the invitation of Dr. W. H. Dall, who com- 
manded the expedition, I joined the party in the schooner " Yukon," 
and made the long voyage from San Francisco to Wainwright Inlet 
and return. During the cruise we collected a vast amount of valuable 
articles and information which have been utilized in various publica- 
tions. Among the collections which concerned me most were 
seventy-seven species of birds, eighty-four species of fishes, and one 
hundred and ten species of lichens, which became the subjects of 
papers in the Proceedings of the United States National Museum, 
volumes IV, V, and VII, and in Section I of the Fisheries and 
Fishery Industries of the United States. The spoon-billed sandpiper 
was the most valuable bird secured, and the specimen brought by the 
"Yukon" was the first in any American museum. Two other 
species of birds were collected for the first time in Alaska. One new 
species of lichens was obtained, and many of the fishes proved to be 
unknown to science. 

The above extracts from my journal cover the voyage from 
Port Providence, Plover Bay, Siberia, to Wainwright Inlet and 
return.] 

245 



THE WHITE WORLD 

us and Captain Hooper came on board. From him we 
learned that nearly all the natives of St. Lawrence Island 
died from starvation last winter; that he had been within 
20 miles of Herald Island and could go no farther on 
account of the ice; that he could not reach Point Barrow 
nor beyond Icy Cape for the same reason; that he had seen 
Nelson at St. Michaels and found him well; he had heard 
nothing of the missing whalers or of the Teannette; the 
whaling fleet now in the Arctic is doing well, having from 
four to ten whales each. 

The bluffs about the Plover Bay region are variously 
colored — gray, purple, yellowish red, and in the ravines 
there is still considerable snow. Small streams come down 
the hillsides in various places. Clouds hang along the 
summits as if to hide the desolation. Flocks of murres, 
mormons, guillemots and other birds fly landward and 
seaward. Gulls and fulmars hover over or rest upon the 
water. 

There are numerous pinnacles off the headlands and 
jagged nubs along the ridges, yet the hill tops are usually 
rounded and the visible faces are much broken up by frost. 
A small settlement is near the west head (entrance to 
Plover Bay), and we saw a few natives come down toward 
the water. 

As we worked in, a bidarra containing eight men from 
the settlement at Port Providence came alongside and 
some of the natives came on board. None of them are 
tall. I should estimate the tallest as not over 5 feet 6 
inches. Their teeth are small and short, worn down by 
much chewing. Their color is nearly like that of the 
Chinese. Most of them shave a part of the head, leaving 
a naked space and a hairy rim. One had two concentric 
naked spaces. Thev wear deerskin parkas, as a rule, with 
bear-skin collars. Hair seal pantaloons and boots or moc- 
casins of seal are worn. Belts and a few beads and bone 
ornaments are in use. Thev employ single paddles. They 
talk some English and a little of several other languages. 

Thursday, August 12 

At 10.45 Capt. Herendeen and I left the " Yukon " in a 
bidarra for the head of Plover Bay, taking the seine along. 



A NATURALISTS ADVENTURES 

We hoped to find reindeer and mountain goat. There 
were three men, one woman and three boys to paddle for 
us. We took shotguns, rifles and cooking outfit. The 
day was fine; I found the sun uncomfortably warm in the 
afternoon. The hills are high, usually rounded, though 
there are some very broken and jagged edges. Valleys 
are frequent; in them the soil is wet and there is vegetation 
but not much grass. Flowers are abundant and very 
pretty. Willow-wort is one of the common species. 
Lichens on the rocks are wonderfully fine and exceedingly 
plentiful. 

Near the head of the bay we saw some salmon — prob- 
ably little humpback, for I know that species to be here — 
and we tried to seine them but without success. We 
caught, however, sculpin, sand launce, blenny, and capelin. 
We saw a great many eiders, females and young. There 
were geese at the head, but we could not get near enough 
even for a rifle shot. Seal were very abundant. We 
stopped to see a party of natives who were encamped for 
seal and reindeer hunting. The men were well armed 
with Henry and other good rifles. 

The boy sitting beside me had his quid of tobacco tem- 
porarily stowed away behind the flap of his ear. Nearly 
all of the party wore the deerskin parkas and hair seal 
pantaloons. Some had sealskin boots. When we seined, 
Sam stripped off everything but his pantaloons and boots 
and waded in. Sam is a shrewd boy. He said to the 
captain the other day: " You give me bread. You give 
him now! Bimeby too many bummer come." 

The old man, too, the famous sealer, is very knowing. 
He seems to understand the reindeer, bear, seal, and other 
creatures that he meets and must have been successful. 
His way of telling the nature of the bears particularly is 
very funny: " Black bear, he hungry, he come man! You 
hit him knife, he no go!" [Imitates growling and fight- 
ing.] "White bear, he smell man, no come; hungry, he 
come; you hit him knife once, he go, all same man! " 

I saw the north star far higher in the heavens than ever 
before. The trip back to the ship was pleasant, the boat 
moving smoothly under the regular and easy stroke of the 
native boatmen. 



247 



THE WHITE WORLD 

Friday, August 13 

In the morning natives brought alongside trout and 
salmon. I tried to make a trade for the salmon but the 
wretch haggled so long about it that I gave up in disgust. 

Captain Herendeen went seining and caught young scul- 
pin, two species of blennies, and young capelin. After 
lunch he and I went to the spit for birds. We got two 
species of snipe, wagtails and longspurs, and I killed three 
marmots and picked up a recently killed ermine. The 
wagtails were exceedingly hard to approach and the long- 
spurs hung around the huts so closely that one could 
scarcely get them; then when they did fly away they were 
hard to overtake, staying only a few seconds in one place. 
Mr. Dall secured from a native a perfect specimen of 
banded seal. 

I saw one of the gill nets for seal lying on the beach. 
It is made of seal skin, with stones for sinkers and seal 
flippers for floats. They are set off from the beach and of 
course are sunk to the bottom, standing up for the seal to 
run into as they swim along near shore in search of food. 

With a bidarra of natives to-day was a little girl, the child 
of some white man by a native woman. The poor, pretty 
little thing was white and has no appearance whatever like 
the rest. 

These people are inveterate beggars and exasperating 
traders. If you go near a hut you are importuned for 
tobacco and many other things that they think you may 
have. Cleanliness is unknown among them. The eye is 
not pleased and the nostril is offended; yet the natives are 
far better and they look better than some of the Indians, for 
example. When whales ran up into this bay the village 
was large and thriving; now it has dwindled to two canoe- 
loads. Whalebone frames are here in large numbers. 
Blubber houses are numerous, but everything has gone to 
ruin. An illustration of the cheek of these beggars oc- 
curred to-day; one said to Captain Herendeen: "Me see 
two fish! You give me tobacco! " 

Saturday, August 14 

Went to the spit again in the forenoon and shot a snipe, 
a plover, a gull, a wagtail, a longspur, and an ermine 

248 



A NATURALIST'S ADVENTURES 

which the natives were trying" to kill with stones, men, 
women and children engaging in the sport. Captain Her- 
endeen shot several marmots with his rifle. We had them 
for dinner and they were very good. The wagtail that I 
shot to-day was evidently adult and much better than those 
I killed yesterday. 

At i.io P. M. we got anchor and left Port Providence 
for Bering Strait. I saw red snow abreast our anchorage 
before leaving. The sea is smooth now. 

Sunday, August 15 

Calm all day but no swell until after tea; clear and 
pleasant. Great flocks of phalaropes have been near us 
off Cape Tchaplin or Indian Point. Captain Herendeen 
shot a dozen of them. Seal, humpback and finback whales 
were common. Rodgers' fulmar is abundant. 

A bidarra load of natives came off from Indian Point in 
the morning and loafed around until the middle of the 
afternoon. One of them, the chief, had a nicely made 
pipe of wood, inlaid with lead and having a lead rim; brass 
chains, and various charms attached to it. He first put 
into the pipe, which was of very small caliber, a little wad 
of reindeer hair, to prevent the tobacco from being drawn 
through the stem, then put in a very little black tobacco 
and inhaled the smoke, retained it in the lungs a short 
time, and slowly exhaled it. This was done just once and 
the quantity of tobacco used was very small. This chief 
had a parka of tame reindeer, a very pretty piebald skin. 
One of the men had a doubled string of small white beads 
in each ear. Hair seal pantaloons and sealskin boots were 
general.. These fellows are tall and athletic in appearance, 
with something of the Indian in their countenances, though 
less repulsive. They call themselves " Innuit." 

Monday, August 16 

Twilight lasts until very late and there are but a few 
hours of night, for we are now not far south of the Arctic 
Circle. 

Tuesday, August 17 

We have made but little progress to-day owing to light 
wind, not fair, and choppy sea. Considerable floating ice 

249 



THE WHITE WORLD 

was seen in Mechigme Bay, some of a beautiful green 
color. Few birds were around us to-day besides Rodgers' 
fulmar. Some small auks were occasionally seen. 




OOMIAK, OR WOMAN'S BOAT 

Wednesday, August 18 

In the morning we were a short distance south of the 
Diomede Islands, tacking back and forth and making little 
northing. At 1.15 P. M. we were about five miles to the 
westward of Cape Prince of Wales, and could see the 
huts of the natives but did not care to call in. 

Saw a small part of a rainbow arch in the evening. East 
Cape could be plainly seen. Fairway Rock showed its full 
height after we left it astern. There was snow on Rat- 
manoff. Krusenstern Island looks like a mountain chop- 
ped ofr". As we ran abreast of the Diomedes we struck a 
warm current, and again at 6.15 P. M.; we found the tem- 
perature of the water to be 51 °. The air, too, was com- 
fortable. One could be on deck without an overcoat. 

Sandhill cranes were seen flying towards America. 
Rodgers' fulmar is our commonest companion; and a 
murre, apparently the same as the one we saw in Cook's 
Inlet, and from there all along, is also frequently near us. 
Puffins are with us occasionally and phalaropes were seen 
to-day. We have not seen a whale since we left Indian 
Point. At 10 P. M. we must be not far from the Arctic 
Circle. 

250 



A NATURALIST'S ADVENTURES 

Thursday, August 19 

At supper time we were in latitude 66° 45' N.; longitude 
166 35' W. Here we saw great numbers of swimming 
medusae, and frequently under them were small fishes, of 
which we caught a great many with a dip-net, and found 
them to be polar cod. There was a great variety of forms 
among the jelly-fishes, some of them very pretty. A 
dredge haul was made immediately after supper, and some 
good shells, ophiurans, crustaceans, etc., were taken on 
the sandy bottom. 

The temperature is quite moderate; one does not need 
an overcoat. The water is still comparatively warm; tem- 
perature 49 at midnight. 

Friday, August 20 

At 2.45 P. M. we were abreast of Point Hope, and at 
8.36 P. M. we anchored at Cape Lisburne, in seven fathoms, 
sticky bottom. At noon to-day we were still in the warm 
current, temperature 51 °. 

The settlement at Point Hope showed no signs of life, 
the natives being off fishing. There were plenty of frames 
for caches, etc., and at various points along the low shore 
were large conical piles of drift wood. The dwellings are 
underground. There is no harbor at Cape Lisburne and 
but a small settlement. The cape is a lofty bluff, backed 
by high hills, the highest 849 feet, down which " woollies " 
came as we were standing in. The full moon came in 
sight as we rounded the cape. The sun sets at 8.20 and 
rises at 3.55. 

Pinnacled edges are found on the hills similar to those 
of the Plover Bay region. Stratified rocks are exposed 
in the cliffs. Murres, Rodgers' fulmar, kittiwakes, and 
mormons are the common birds seen to-day. The air here 
at 9 P. M., 46 ; water, 47^ °. 

Saturday, August 21 

Went ashore early with Baker and Noyes, to collect 
birds, etc. The day was for the most part very pleasant, 
and in the afternoon the sun's rays were powerful, so much 
so, that two Eskimo boys stripped down to the waist. 
These people, like the Plover Bay folk, were hatless. 

251 



THE WHITE WORLD 

I think the Cape Lisburne Eskimo would have worried 
even Job into vigorous speech, as they certainly did me. 
Beg, beg, beg! without end — tobacco, shot, powder, caps, 
matches; they were never tired of importuning us for these 
staples, and when they shot they never hit a bird. They 
are bad shots, except at very short range — about the length 
of a gun barrel. 

They wear labrets — one had a pair of stopples of Worces- 
tershire Sauce bottles! They live in semi-subterranean 
huts; use bidarras; have for the most part the cheapest 
kind of muzzle-loading guns, though one had a Winchester 
repeating rifle; their spear points are partly bone and 
partly copper or other metal; their parkas are of reindeer 
skin with hoods. Their curiosity is unbounded and they 
torment whites as much as children would a good-natured 
kitten. It was necessary to have an eye on each pocket 
to protect its contents. One neighborly fellow wanted to 
see my cap, which he immediately clapped on to his dirty 
pate, much to my disgust. 

Notwithstanding the extreme annoyance endured from 
these " untutored " minds, I made a good day's work, 
securing fifteen birds, a marmot, fossils, lichens, flint chips, 
etc. The birds seem to be blue gull, another gull, kitti- 
wake, wagtail, dunlin, longspur and stone chat. The mar- 
mot is quite common. I saw a good many cormorants, a 
few eider, guillemots without end, and some mormons, 
also a raven which I shot at. We tried two seine hauls 
and took six species of fish — all small: salmon, sculpin, 
polar cod, blenny, sea poacher, and capelin. We saw no 
large fish. 

At 7.45 P. M. we got under way for the northward. The 
fossils here seem to be carboniferous; there were many 
fossil corals. The long plateau fronting our anchorage 
is comparatively level, the soil rather springy, traversed 
by numerous rills, though easy to walk over. 

This seems like sailing in a mill-pond, and the air at 
9 P. M. was 50 . The moonlight is fine. Reindeer are 
found near this cape. 

Sunday, August 22 

After breakfast the anchor was let down, about ten miles 
to the eastward of Cape Lisburne, there being no wind. 

252 



A NATURALIST'S ADVENTURES 

Cormorants were rather common to-day. I heard a raven, 
too, away off on one of the hills. I collected two long- 
spurs and some lichens, a couple of wooden implements 
and an imperfect skull of a young walrus. 

I saw a burial frame on slightly elevated ground. There 
were four stumps, root ends up and the other ends im- 
bedded in the ground, furnishing the necessary crotches 
for supporting the cross and lengthwise pieces. They 
were about two and a half feet long above ground. 

On these stumps were two cross pieces, which sup- 
ported two sticks ten feet long, and between these outer 
long sticks were eight other smaller round sticks which 
formed the immediate rest of the corpse. There were a 
foot board and a head board — each one inch thick, about 
two feet long, and four inches wide. The head board was 
supplemented by a head stick — part of a stump, about 
three feet long, and one foot in diameter at its widest part. 
At each end were seven or eight round sticks, from four 
to six feet long, placed obliquely in the ground and leaning 
inward toward the body at the top. On each side were 
eighteen or twenty round limbs of three to six inches 
diameter, placed obliquely and crossing one another at 
the top; these sticks were from 8 to 14 feet long. One 
additional stick on each side about the middle was oblique, 
but did not meet its fellow at the top. 

The corpse rested on two deer skins placed hair side 
to hair side, and was apparently covered with a deer skin. 
It occupied a space of about three feet eight inches long 
by fourteen inches wide, and lay on its back w r ith the feet 
drawn up and the knees in contact. The arms were 
straight along. The head was towards Cape Lisburne and 
the feet to the east; the head was slightly higher than the 
feet. This case was of course open to animals and birds, 
and the foxes, marmots and birds had left their/ traces. 
All the wood in the structure was driftwood. 

A good-sized stream debouches here and a long tidal 
lagoon is near it. Eskimo camps have been pitched here. 
A very good sled was lying on the ground, the runners 
bone shod. There are many flowers and myriads of 
lichens. One of the men claimed to have seen a reindeer. 
Brant have just begun to migrate southward — we have 

253 



THE WHITE WORLD 

seen a great many pass to-day. It is warm enough on 
deck at 10.30 P. M. without an overcoat, and the twilight 
still lasts. 

Monday, August 23 

Woke up to find a strong nor'easter blowing and the 
" Yukon " lurching uncomfortably. The sea is short and 
choppy; the vessel down to double reefed fore and main, 
and laboring slowly along. Every loose thing on board 
has revealed itself by dropping with a clatter. 

Tuesday, August 24 

During last night the wind shifted, and the sea soon- 
became so smooth that one could work with comfort. 
The country is mainly low and fiat in the vicinity of Point 
Lay and for many miles to the southward. Seal have been 
abundant; birds very scarce, only an occasional murre 
and one gull. The sea has been smooth as a mill-pond 
nearly all day and wind exceedingly light. It has been 
just comfortably warm, too, 49 ° at 8 P. M. and 48 at 
10.30 P. M. The water is quite shoal here and generally 
in the Arctic, 32 fathoms being the deepest sounding on 
my chart — so that while an ugly sea rises quickly it also 
subsides quickly with a change of wind and does not make 
life miserable for days and days after a storm, as is the 
case in the deep sea. 

Wednesday, August 25 

Anchored about breakfast time not far from Icy Cape. 
Very early this morning we passed the whaler " Dawn " 
of San Francisco. She had six whales. Captain Hickmot 
said he saw the " Corwin " about a week ago; he had four- 
teen whales. All are doing well. Whales have been very 
plenty all around us. The carcass which the " Dawn " had 
lately finished cutting in was near our anchorage. 

Ashore I collected some shells and other invertebrates, 
skulls of polar bear and walrus, a stickleback, a golden 
plover, one dunlin, four phalaropes, a stone-chat, besides 
one black brant, which last was very abundant on the 
brackish lagoons of the spit. 

254 



A NATURALIST'S ADVENTURES 

Eskimo have been here recently; quantities of broken 
skulls of walrus and other animals lie around. Great 
pieces of whalebones are imbedded in the ground in many 
places. Lichens are abundant and some on the rocks are 
very pretty. We found a number of implements, princi- 
pally of wood. Heaps of burned bones are frequent. The 
Eskimo burn the bones to appease the spirit dwelling- in 
the animal, fearing a failure in future hunting if this mark 
of respect be withheld. 

As far as the eye can see here, the country is low and 
flat. A great lagoon lies between the spit and the main- 
land, in many places so shoal that a whaleboat cannot go 
through at low tide. Drinking water is found by digging 
a few feet. 

Thursday, August 26 

We have seen the packed ice often to-day and lots of 
whales. We went aboard the whaling barque " Hunter " 
of New Bedford, Captain Fisher, and saw them cutting 
in a 100-barrel " bowhead.'' Secured some of the black 
skin, blubber and whiskers, which appendage is very little 
known in connection with whales and scarcely referred to 
in any of the books. The " Hunter " had eleven whales, 
and her boats were in chase of another before we left. Met 
the " Corwin " a little after 7 o'clock and soon afterward 
anchored near Point Belcher. Very soon two bidarras of 
natives were on board. Captain Herendeen traded for 
some reindeer meat. The men have most astonishing 
labrets, and do not seem to beg as the Cape Lisburne 
fellows did. 

Wounded a jaeger as we passed the " Hunter " but it 
fluttered away before we got it. The species was abund- 
ant around the ship and there were a few gulls. 

Friday, August 27 

The natives here do not beg, and it is easy to trade with 
them. Some of the labrets worn seem to have been made 
of glass beads set in stone or bone — the largest I saw was 
perhaps one and one-fourth inches in diameter. The 
jaeger and snowy owl are common. Longspur and stone- 
chat are more plentiful than anywhere else so far as ob- 
served by me. Phalaropes are here in large flocks. Eider 

255 



THE WHITE WORLD 

are not plentiful. We had whale steak and reindeer for 
breakfast, and eider for dinner. 

Saturday, August 28 

Left Point Belcher about 9 A. M. for the southward, 
with a fair wind which has held all day. Yesterday the 
steam whaler " Mary and Helen " passed close to and 
hailed the " Yukon " — she had twenty-two whales. The 
" Alaska " was in sight to the northward and westward. 
Temperature of the air in the morning 40 F. 

Sunday, August 29 

The fine breeze continued fair, and carried us rapidly on 
our way past Cape Beaufort, Cape Lisburne, and on be- 
yond Point Hope and Cape Thompson, which we nassed 
before dark. Fulmars and murres are now more abundant. 
Air in the evening 46 F. and water warmer. Off Cape 
Lisburne we saw the " woollies " coming down in force. 
In the midnight twilight the high hills beyond Cape 
Thompson are clearly defined against the glowing sky, 
while the major part of the sky is overcast 

Monday, August 30 

To-day we have been gradually running in toward 
Escholtz Bay, with rather too much light wind. Passed 
Cape Krusenstern about 5.30 P. M. We saw a couple 
of tents and a larger settlement a few miles farther to the 
east. We have had exceptionally fine weather and smooth 
sailing all the way from Pt. Belcher; quite a delightful 
experience has our Arctic navigation been as a whole. 

The face of the country is generally made up of high 
hills with some intervening valleys and long stretches of 
very low land adjoining the sound in many places. Cape 
Krusenstern is a low point, hard to see even a few miles 
away. Air 46 ° at 11.30 P. M. 

Tuesday, August 31 

About 6.30 A. M. we anchored near Chamisso Island, 
Escholtz Bay. Salmon berries, whortleberries, service 

256 



A NATURALIST'S ADVENTURES 



berries, and a kind which is not edible are all abundant. 
The island is covered with grass, alder, and willow, and 
there is a dwarf birch. There are some little rills of toler- 
ably good water. The land rises gradually inland and 
from the ends of the island, so that 
a very regular curve is shown from 
our anchorage. There are many 
hummocks which greatly impede 
walking. There are some cliffs in 
a rather tumble-down condition, 
with occasional deep cuts between, 
and small stretches of sand beach. 
On this island is a cairn and an 
astronomical station which has 
been visited by the "Blossom," 
the "Plover" and other vessels. 

A bidarra of Eskimo came 
aboard after supper to trade. I 
gave some shot and caps for a 

mink skin and a few caps for a dried hoikoh salmon. 
Captain Herendeen got some dried smelt for me. In the 
seine to-day, the great sculpin was taken and another young 
sculpin was dredged. 





■ 


■ 




l\ 1-* 


% 




'm 


1 



ESKIMO CHEWING SKINS 



Wednesday, September i 

Got under way about 9.30 A. M. and at 10.15 anchored 
on the east side of Choris Peninsula. Captain Herendeen 
saw geese, stone-chats, and a sandhill crane. It was too 
rainy when he was ashore to find small birds. 

Thursday, September 2 

Early in the morning Dall, Baker and I sailed in the 
longboat nearly to Elephant Point and walked the rest of 
the way. This point is distinguished as the locality where 
Kotzebue found remains of the fossil elephant, ox, and 
other mammals. It was afterward visited by some of the 
English exploring ships and furnished the materials for 
the volume relating to these animals in the " Vovage of 
the Herald." 

The clay bluffs in which the bones are found extend 
about two miles east and west. They are backed by still 



257 



THE WHITE WORLD 

higher bluffs, and these again by a gradual slope upward 
to a height of about two hundred and fifty feet or more, 
after which comes a slight decline followed by a still higher 
slope. The bluffs are composed of ice, in some places fifty 
feet thick, loose light soil, and tough blue clay in various 
proportions. On the high grounds solid ice was found 
about a foot below the surface; little pools of very good 
ice water were numerous. Service berries, salmon berries, 
and blueberries were abundant. Frozen peat was found 
immediately covering the ice. Lichens are very abundant 
and there are some flowers. Numerous ravines are well 
wooded with alder, willow, birch, etc. Grouse were seen 
in the undergrowth. Traces of wolves and bear were 
frequent. We found trees as much as seven feet high 
and three inches in diameter growing freely where there 
was little more than a foot of soil covering the solid ice. 

The smell of these ice cliffs resembles that of a stable 
or something worse. Mr. Dall boxed some of the richest 
of the odoriferous substances. We found a good many 
valuable bones. Beluga skulls were also found on the 
beach. I saw geese, eider, a fine raven, and many gulls. 
Shot two widgeons, a white-winged gull, a turnstone, and 
a very pretty hawk. Found plenty of small sticklebacks in 
the brackish lagoons near Elephant Point. 

Friday, September 3 

Early in the morning we left Choris Peninsula with a 
fair wind, and ran along as far as Cape Espenberg and a 
little beyond, when the wind fluctuated and died away. 
Air at 10.30 P. M. 41 °. The coast in the vicinity of Cape 
Espenberg is low and apparently lumpy. 

Saturday, September 4 

Air at 8 P. M. 41^2°. Some rain and disagreeable sea in 
the forenoon. Murres and Rodgers' fulmar abundant. 
The water is quite phosphorescent to-night, and as we 
plunge through it, impelled by a ten-knot breeze, wide 
swaths of pale glowing light are on either hand and be- 
hind us. 

258 



A NATURALIST'S ADVENTURES 

Sunday, September 5 

Early in the morning we were near East Cape, which we 
could not approach closely on account of the ice; neither 
was the bight near it accessible for the same reason. 
Although there was a strong breeze, the day was mostly 
clear and Mr. Dall was able to make a complete thermal 
section of Bering Strait from off East Cape to near Cape 
Prince of Wales. After this was done we put in for Port 
Clarence and anchored outside of the spit. The strong 
breeze and high sea made things pretty lively for us nearly 
all day. From Cape Prince of Wales along to Port Clar- 
ence the coast is marked by rounded hills alternating with 
plateaus, some of them of considerable length. From our 
sailing track the country looks rather barren and we ex- 
perienced again the " woollies " so common off the high 
hills of this northern coast. 

A " sun dog " was seen in the evening. 

Monday, September 6 

This morning we ran beyond the spit which ends in 
Point Spencer and nearly into Grantley Harbor, but by 
8 A. M. we were at anchor near the village on the spit. 
The spit is long, narrow and curved. Where I crossed 
it I should estimate the width at three-quarters of a mile. 
It is level, offers good walking, and is well watered by fresh 
lagoons around which birds collect. It has no trees except 
the very scrubby dwarf willows, but has a few flowers and 
many lichens, some of which are exquisitely pretty. The 
water of the lagoons is very good; there are many stickle- 
backs in it. The lagoons are all very shallow. What be- 
comes of these fish in winter? 

I shot four phalaropes, a dunlin, longspurs, a stone-chat, 
and a burgomaster gull. I saw also a wagtail and a small 
wren, which I could not get. Picked up some sponges and 
other invertebrates on the beach and a couple of walrus 
skulls; also a human cranium over on the west side of the 
spit. Found some small fresh water shells near one of the 
lagoons. Collected a fine lot of lichens. 

The glaucous-winged gull was abundant, with kitti- 
wakes; mormons were observed, and a few eider. Captain 

259 



THE WHITE WORLD 



Herendeen shot some oldwives and brought back from the 
village a dried " vachna," two trout skins, and some stickle- 
backs. Mr. Bailey made seven seine hauls and took sand 
launce, rock trout, sea poacher, sculpin, and two species 
of flounder. A native told us* that 
fish were plentiful on the east side of 
the bay. 

Tuesday, September 7. 

Owing to the strong breeze blow- 
ing all day no one went ashore ; it 
was cold, too, the air being 41 ° in the 
evening. 




Wednesday, September 8 

The wind moderated and we had a 
fairly good day for collecting, except- 
ing a little rain. Went ashore after 
breakfast to shoot birds, but found 
very few. Shot two longspurs ; saw 
one wagtail but could not get close 
enough. Traded five pieces of tobacco 
for a white-fox and some ethnologica. In the afternoon 
traded caps, needles, and tobacco, for a lot of ethnologica, 
brought by King's Island Eskimo. These people are not 
at all troublesome and are easy to barter with. They 
showed a marked liking for tobacco and caps, and the 
women for needles. 

I secured specimens of Dolly Varden trout, whitefish, 
smelt, and herring early in the morning and of " vachna " 
cod in the afternoon by trade. We obtained some very 
good stone implements and labrets, fishing lines, sinkers, 
hooks, ivory implements and ornaments, tools, etc. The 
fishing lines are very ingeniously arranged to lure 
fish. The natives are shrewd traders, quick to see an 
opportunity, and tenacious in holding on to it. They had 
oil in seal skin bags; sometimes they fill the bag partly 
with water and pour oil on top, to cheat the buyer. They 
care little for American clothing, jewelry, etc., but want 
things of real value for their own purposes. 



260 



A NATURALIST'S ADVENTURES 

One drilled a hole and a half in an unfinished sinker for 
me with a steel drill, using no bow and mouthpiece because 
he had traded them away. The bills of the razor-billed 
auk, being red and having appendages which when dry have 
the appearance of an imperfect salmon egg, are used on 
the fishing lines as a lure, and ivory or bone imitations of 
fish are similarly used. 

Thursday, September 9 

The King's Island people came aboard again this morn- 
ing and brought a few ethnologica. We got under way 
for the Diomedes, and before night we were abreast of 
Cape York. The coast in that vicinity is mainly low — flat 
bluffs backed by high hills. Some of the hills are clustered 
in curious parallel cones. The country looks quite barren. 
There is a little snow on the high peaks. Before we left 
Port Clarence an Eskimo brought aboard eight eider which 
he had speared. 

Friday, September 10 

Reached Big Diomede or Ratmanofif Island at 7 A. M. 
Several bidarras containing Eskimo come out to trade. 
Captain Herendeen bought a great lot of little auks and 
Mr. Baker brought off six young ones from the island. 

There is no good landing; there are large and small 
bowlders on the shore just as at Little Koniushi Island. 
The granite cliffs rise steep and high, and the top is flat. 
There is a village on the north or northwest shore; the 
observing station was on the southeast. Several flowering 
plants were collected, a chickweed among them. 

Captain Herendeen traded for some walrus tusks, blue, 
white, and cross foxes. We got three lance heads. The 
people are not troublesome; they are dirty and shabbily 
clad, and hungry for tobacco and " cow-cow " (food), but 
quiet and orderly enough. Their bidarras are very well 
made. Reindeer skins (white) they hold at a high figure. 
I offered one of tl em a pair of pantaloons or a coat for 
one, but he wanted a whole suit. They have few labrets 
and none of them good. They are of medium height, not 
so tall as the whites; light copper color or swarthy, very 
much like the Plover Bay people. They asked first for 
tobacco, next for " lum." Guns and ammunition are their 
choice. 

261 



THE WHITE WORLD 

Saturday, September ii 
During last night, floating ice delayed us a good deal. 
We passed Indian Point before lunch and at noon spoke 
the " Progress," of New Bedford. She had seventeen 
whales. At 10 P. M. we were near Plover Bay. A whaler 
is at anchor a little to the eastward of the bay, trying out. 
A long narrow shaft of gold ascended from the sun at 
sunset and the sky was lovely. 

Sunday, September 12 

We anchored in Port Providence, Plover Bay, a short 
time before lunch. The wind was very light but the day 
was superlatively good. Not a cloud obscured the sun. 
Baker and Noyes went ashore at once and had a perfect 
working afternoon. 

Captain Jerningham, of the barque " Tropic Bird," came 
aboard and took lunch with us. He has been in the Arctic 
twenty or more seasons and saw nothing to equal this 
before. He was within ten miles of Herald Island early 
in the season and others have since been within three miles, 
but nothing has been heard of the missing whalers or the 
" Jeannette." The impression among whalers is, that the 
missing men will never be heard from. 

The water of the bay approaching Port Providence is 
fairly brown by reflection from " whalefood " beneath its 
surface, and the watermelon or cucumber smell is very 
strong. Collected two ravens, two Buffon's jaegers, a gol- 
den plover, a longspur, three marmots, some lichens and 
ethnologica on the spit. Saw no wagtails, but heard one 
away up on the high hillside. Climbed up after it, but 
could not see it. I found, however, two piles of reindeer 
antlers, heaped up and partly covered with bowlders, and 
a fragment of a human skull. 

The moon as it sank over the flat, narrow head of the 
spit to-night, was reflected with very little distortion in 
the almost perfectly still water of Port Providence; thou- 
sands of stars were reflected, also. The shadows of the 
high hills made a perfect image in the waters all round as 
far as one could see in Plover Bay and the lights of the 
whalers shone out bright and clear. Low voices could be 
heard from the vessels in conversation. A lovelier picture 
I have seldom seen. 

262 



A NATURALIST'S ADVENTURES 

Monday, September 13 

Went ashore early in the morning with Baker. Walked 
to the southern end of the spit and followed along the cliffs 
to the first pinnacle in search of birds. Saw a few ducks 
but could not get a shot. There was thin ice on the 
shallow lagoons of the spit, and a heavy frost. The sun 
rose clear over the hills, but was obscured in a few minutes 
and remained so all day. It was pretty cold unless one 
kept constantly in motion. 

There are hardly any land birds except ravens. I saw 
one wagtail flying toward the point of the spit. Shot a 
cormorant, which fell some distance out on the water — too 
far to get it. I killed one golden plover and a marmot; 
picked up a lot of skulls of dogs, a couple of jaws of walrus 
teeth, and some old ethnologica. Among the ethnologica 
added to the collection to-day were two bailing or drinking 
cups made of horn of the mountain sheep. 

Tuesday, September 14 

About lunch time I went ashore on the point hoping to 
find snipe or some other desiderata. There were none to 
be seen. I walked down to the head of the spit where the 
gulls congregate. The gulls left when they saw me, but 
the ravens held their ground and did not seem to fear me 
as long as I sat still and made no sudden movement. They 
would fly quite close to my head, and look at me with 
apparent curiosity, uttering now and then a hoarse cry or 
call to some other raven flying near at hand, hopping 
forward a step or two, then pulling off a piece of moss from 
the stones and jumping slightly into the air, sometimes 
taking a good-sized stone in the beak, perhaps to see if any 
food might be concealed under it. Occasionally one would 
find a morsel and another would try to take it out of his 
bill, the lucky one seeming to hold it out temptingly, but 
firmly, to tantalize his covetous neighbor. In starting to 
fly they would strike the ground with their feet two or 
three times to gain an impetus. 

Leaving the ravens to their antics, I walked up the hill- 
side to an old burial place Avhere I found a broken skull of 
a fox and a pretty good Eskimo cranium. Here I saw the 

263 



THE WHITE WORLD 

moss-lined rock cairns in which human bodies were once 
partially cremated. Few bones were to be seen and the 
place had evidently not been used lately. 

After dinner, Dall, Baker, Noyes and I went to see the 
steam whaler, " Mary and Helen." Captain Owens was 
full of information about whales and it did one good to 
hear him talk. He repeated an amusing expression of 
Captain Jerningham: " Prepared to die, but not quite 
ready." The captain says that when a whale is struck all 
the whales for miles round will know it, and put out. 
One of Owens's men, named Green, killed seventeen of 
the whales taken on this voyage; he is one of the best 
whalemen in the business. " The Lolita " went ashore on 
St. Lawrence Island. A party of the crew came over in a 
whaleboat. As soon as the Indian Point men heard of it 
they started for the wreck. The remainder of the " Lol- 
ita " crew are still on St. Lawrence Island. Captain 
Owens and Mr. Reynolds wore kid jackets which they 
bought in the straits of Magellan from a German — and 
capital things thev are for wind and cold. 

The largest oil casks we saw hold fourteen barrels. 
Captain Owens told us he had seen a polar bear killing 
large walrus by biting through their skulls, swimming 
carefully under cover of ice cakes, keeping to leeward of 
the walrus until close enough for a spring, stopping occa- 
sionally to raise himself carefullv and peep, to see whether 
the game continued unsuspecting. 

Wednesday, September 15 

Mr. Baker and Captain Herendeen walked through the 
divide to Moore Lake, and found the greatest elevation 
reached 800 feet. The hills on either side of the divide, 
they estimate at near 2000 feet. They saw no birds, nor 
any living thing except ravens. They brought back a few 
old ethnologica picked up in a deserted village at the lake, 
a few lichens, and a spider. 

Thursday, September 16 

Captain Owens called shortly before lunch and spent 
part of the afternoon. He brought some of his journals 

264 



A NATURALIST'S ADVENTURES 

of whaling voyages and told us of many adventures and 
sights. He has twice seen a whale suckle its young. 
Once a whale which yielded 40 barrels of oil was seen in 
the act of sucking; the mother was turned on her side and 
back, and the young one was athwartships. At this time, 
the mother, the male and the young, were all caught, and 
the three made two hundred and fifty barrels of oil. 

Captain Owens also told how he once had a lance struck 
through a polar bear; the line fouled and the headway of 
his boat was such that the bear was suddenly jerked along- 
side and quite close to the captain. The bear immediately 
struck at the boat and carried away the ribbon. The 
captain fired a big cartridge at him, but missed several 
times. They finally managed to get the line clear, and 
then easily kept out of the way of the bear, which soon 
weakened from its wound and was at last killed by a ball. 

The captain told us, too, of an encounter with a fighting 
sperm whale which came for the boat with his jaws open 
and thrashing from side to side. An iron was driven into 
his case when he immediately closed his mouth and then 
shoved the boat a long way ahead of him. Another iron 
was driven into his mouth which caused him to turn on 
his side, and a third iron was put into his life. 

Captain Fisher told us when we were aboard the 
" Hunter " of a polar bear in Hudson Bay which came for 
his boat and was stopped at the bow by a lance driven into 
his vitals. Said Captain Fisher: "The head of a whale- 
boat is a hard thing to face." 

Captain Gilley, of the " Julia A. Long," said that walrus 
are plentiful on the beach of Hall Island. You can shoot 
the walrus on the beach while the bears are up on the cliff 
watching for a chance to kill walrus; you turn round and 
shoot the bear and he rolls down the cliff. 

Captain Owens says that walrus are as much as six feet 
long before the tusks come through much. He has seen 
female walrus clasp their young in their flippers, to protect 
them from bears. 

Friday, September 17 
Early in the morning the steamer " Mary and Helen " 
took us in tow and carried us well out of the bay, after 

265 



THE WHITE WORLD 



which she stood across for St. Lawrence Island, to rescue 
the shipwrecked men of the " Lolita." When the " Mary 
and Helen " left us, the schooner " Julia A. Long- " was 
standing out of Marcus Bay, bound also for the wreck. 



266 



THE UNFORTUNATE MIRANDA 



HENRY COLLINS WALSH. 

Henry Collins Walsh was born of American 
parents in Florence, Italy, Nov., 1863. Has 
been an extensive traveler in various parts of the 
world. He accompanied Dr. F. A. Cook's Arc- 
tic Expedition of 1894 as historian, and em- 
bodied his experiences in a book. Journalist, 
editor and war correspondent. 




HENRY COLLINS WALSH 



JUVENI-E GREENLANDERS 




THE UNFORTUNATE MIRANDA 

By HENRY COLLINS WALSH 




R. F. A. Cook's Arctic Expedition of 
1894 had no serious design upon the 
North Pole itself, its main objects 
being to study the Greenland glacier 
system; to map out and explore a 
part of the unknown coast of Mel- 
ville Bay, and to photograph, sketch 
and study the Eskimo, as well as the 
animal and vegetable life to be found in the northern reg- 
ions. But, as shall be herein recorded, a perverse fate in- 
terfered sadly with its more serious objects; and as the 
majority of the members of this numerically powerful ex- 
pedition had joined it rather for the sake of sport and the 
gaining of a novel experience, than from any desire of 
assiduously devoting themselves to Arctic work, it may 
not inaptly be termed an Arctic excursion. 



271 



THE WHITE WORLD 

The members of the expedition were detained for some 
days in New York because the ship in which they were to 
sail was belated, and arrived in port behind the scheduled 
time. 

The Miranda was the name of this vessel, a name sug- 
gestive of hidden reefs and tempests. She was a vessel 
with a past, and that past was not entirely to her credit. 
She was built for the Red Cross Line in 1884, an d had 
hardly been put into service between New York, Halifax 
and St. John's, when she ran on the rocks off Point Judith. 
Later, she struck on rocks in Hell Gate and sank, but was 
raised at considerable cost. She soon afterwards collided 
with an iron steamer, and later with a schooner, and it was 
she who towed the famous Leary's raft from Nova Scotia 
in 1887. The raft pulled the fastenings out of the Miranda, 
went to pieces, and became a serious disturber of traffic. 
The ship lost something of her good name and all her 
passenger trade after these trifling accidents, and was 
finally rented out as a freight steamer. She seemed indeed 
to take more kindly to freight than to passengers, for she 
behaved herself fairly well until she took us all on board; 
she had been merely restraining her passion for collisions, 
and holding in abeyance her singular penchant for rocks, 
until a fitting opportunity presented itself for a full display 
of her powers. 

The expedition finally started from Pier 6, North River, 
on the afternoon of July 7. Quite a large concourse of 
people had collected on the pier to see the Arctic argonauts 
start on their fateful voyage, and we all tried to look like 
the Arctic heroes we had read about, and cast glances as 
coW and as haughty as possible upon the spectators. 

Many enthusiastic friends had crowded upon the ship, 
and when the jangling signal had been given for all who 
were not going to brave the dangers of the north to go 
on shore, the pause that came before the actual start gave 
an opportunity to a stout man on the wharf to let off a 
few mild jokes at our expense. He persisted in looking 
upon the expedition from a humorous standpoint, and was 
aided and abetted in his point of view by a Fourth of July 
jag which had not yet entirely deserted him. 



272 



iiM 



THE UNFORTUNATE MIRANDA 

" What in the name of Hades do you want to go to the 
North Pole for anyway, when ice is only two dollars a 
ton in New York?" he shouted. 

Little did he know how dearly ice would cost us later, 
off the coast of Labrador. When the start was actually 
made, and the Miranda, instead of backing out as was in- 
tended, headed directly for the dock, hitting against two 
or three small craft on her way, this man's delight knew 
no bounds. 

" Are you going to hunt polar bears in Wall Street?" 
he queried in high glee. Something unlooked for had 
happened. The signal wires running into the engineer's 
room, which had just been renewed, had been unaccountably 
crossed, and the engineer had received the reverse signal 
from the one intended. 

It looked for a mniute as if the small craft were doomed 
to destruction by being jammed against the dock, but 
after considerable bellowing and shouting and not a little 
swearing, matters were rectified, and the Miranda backed 
out, and started on her career, amid cheers, wavings and 
confused shoutings of farewell from the shore. 

We had not long been out when I had a protracted 
conversation with the captain of the ship. Conversations 
with the captain were generally protracted because he stut- 
tered terribly. He informed me after several attempts that 
we would have no luck upon this voyage. 

I asked him to explain his gloomy foreboding. 

" Ss-ss-ss-sky pilots," he remarked, indicating with a 
gesture two reverend gentlemen who accompanied the 
expedition. I knew of this superstition among sailors and 
did not endeavor to combat it. Argument amounts to 
nothing when opposed to superstition. 

It took a little time for the members of the expedition 
to get acquainted with each other, for there were fifty-two 
members all told, and they represented a large variety of 
professions and characters. There were doctors of divinity 
and doctors of medicine, college professors and students — 
Harvard, Yale and Oberlin Colleges being particularly 
well represented — business men, sportsmen and explorers, 
an artist, photographer, and a couple of " d — d literarv fel- 
lows." 

273 



THE WHITE WORLD 



" How well this crowd seems to get along," remarked 
a man opposite me at the breakfast table, " in spite of the 
fact that before leaving New York scarcely one man in 
the crowd knew another." 

" Well," said an Englishman upon my right, with the 
slow deliberation of his race and the air of a man who 
had given the subject careful con- 
sideration, " well, but we are a very 
superior crowd, you know." 

There was no dissent from this 
opinion. 

Late in the afternoon of July n, 
we steamed into the beautiful har- 
bor of Sydney, Cape Breton Island, 
one of the finest in the world. Here 
we remained long enough to take in 
the town and its surroundings, as 
well as a supply of coal and pro- 
visions. The inhabitants of Sydney 
appeared to have no faith in an iron 
ship as an Arctic navigator. They 
declared it would be smashed by the 
ice. One ancient oracle, a prophet 
of wind and ice, was appealed to 
for his opinion. He shook his head, gave a significant 
look, and said solemnly that he did not like to express his 
opinion in our presence. Had he doomed us to certain 
death, he could not have thrown a deeper gloom over the 
assembled company 

At St. John's, Newfoundland, our next stopping place, 
we once more gave occasion for dire prophetic utter- 
ances. It was therefore a considerable relief when Dr. 
Cook returned from a pilgrimage to the shore, bringing 
with him a veteran ice pilot who had been with Peary, and 
who was regarded as an authority upon Arctic navigation. 
His services were secured for the trip, and he proved to be 
a sort of Bunsby who so won the confidence of Captain 
Cuttle. His oracular manner and the significant nods 
that accompanied his Delphic utterances seemed to cheer 
the drooping spirits of those who had harkened to too 
many forebodings, and so in high feather and with large 
hopes, we steamed out of the harbor into the open sea. 

274 




THE UNFORTUNATE MIRANDA 

On the following day we encountered a seemingly un- 
ending procession of icebergs, of all sizes and shapes; 
some of them assumed most exquisite contours, and 1 
shall never forget the striking beauty of one large mass 
of ice that slowly passed us. In shape it resembled the 
ruins of a vast cathedral, from which a stately tower rose 
and glittered and gleamed in the sun. It seemed as if 
some great Arctic Michael Angelo must have spent his 
life in giving shape and beauty to so grand a pile. An 
iceberg at a convenient distance is a magnificent sigh 
that adds a real charm to the vast expanse of sea; but 
distance lends enchantment to the view, as we shortly 
discovered. , . ,., 

The next day it was foggy, very foggy, and the white 
curtain that fell about the ship seemed to be growing 
heavier and heavier. Just after breakfast, a number of us 
were on deck, when suddenly the signal to reverse the 
engine was given, and simultaneously through the dense 
fog an immese mass of ice loomed directly ahead of us 
and in a moment we had struck it full and square 

The iron prow of the ship ran right into the berg tor 
fully seven feet, and the ice crumbling and breaking from 
the shock fell in a great mass upon the forward deck. 
The reverse action of the propeller then began to draw us 
away from the ice, and the Miranda backed and careened 
to one side. There was an uncomfortable moment ot 
suspense, and then the vessel righted itself. 

It was quickly ascertained that, notwithstanding the 
severity of the shock, the damage that had been done was 
not sufficiently serious to endanger the ship. We had 
fortunately struck a projecting portion of the berg above 
our water-line, so that the blow came upon the upper star- 
board bow-plates; three of these were stove in, the hole 
running upward about fifteen feet above the water line 
It was a great piece of luck that we did not strike the 
great mass of ice below the water, which forms the greater 
oart of an iceberg. It was the projecting ice above that 
saved us from tearing out the bottom of the ship by strik- 
ing the vast mass below; had we hit upon this, my readers 
would have been spared this narrative. _ 

We were oft the coast of Labrador, and it was decided to 



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THE WHITE WORLD 

put in to the harbor of Cape Charles for repairs, and then 
continue the journey northward. 

Slowly we steamed into the not very inviting harbor of 
Cape Charles on that bleak coast. High, barren hills rose 
all around us, destitute of vegetation, except that here and 
there kindly mosses covered their nakedness. 

It did not take us long to form the acquaintance of* the 
entire population of Cape Charles, because this population 
consists of only a half dozen families, augmented some- 
what in the fishing season by a few fishermen from New- 
foundland. Very simple, very monotonous and very dull 
is the life of a Labrador fisherman; he fishes, he sleeps and 
he eats, and that tells about the whole story. 

We were a sort of godsend to the inhabitants, for they 
had never seen so large a ship before, and we were as 
popular as a circus in a rural community. The men 
brought their wives and children to have a look at the 
wonders of the boat, and to see the live sheep on board, 
natural curiosities which had never before been seen in 
that place, and which were much admired. 

One old fellow was very much struck with the water 
cooler; he regarded it as the most remarkable piece of 
mechanism that he had ever seen, and never tired of stand- 
ing by it, in open-mouthed admiration, to witness the 
extraordinary spectacle of water being drawn from it. The 
favorite Labrador drink is made from a mixture of spruce 
beer and rum. Spruce beer is a very popular drink in 
Labrador, and every well regulated family keeps a supply 
on hand; rum is also popular, but rarer. 

After spending a few days at Cape Charles it was ascer- 
tained that the proper repairs could not be made there, 
and as it was deemed unsafe to proceed northward in the 
crippled condition of the ship, it was decided to return to 
St. John's in order that the vessel might be properly 
tinkered. Our second arrival at that city by the sea 
created no little excitement, especially after the news of 
the collision with an iceberg had circulated through the 
town; and the prophets joyfully gathered about us, and 
reminded us of their warnings. The realization of a dire 
prophecy is the greatest happiness that can come to the 
heart of a prophet. 

276 



THE UNFORTUNATE MIRANDA 

The Miranda lay at the great dry dock at St. John's, and 
night and day the hammers played merrily upon her. In 
about a week she was ready to start northward again. But 
it was a question as to whether we could proceed with 
any degree of safety, and we were obliged, much to our 
disappointment, to give up all thoughts of entering Melville 
Bay", both on account of the delay we had experienced, and 
the danger of getting nipped by pack-ice, for all the authori- 
ties agreed that in such a contingency the Miranda would 
be crushed like an egg-shell. After considerable delibera- 
tion and consultation it was decided that it would be safe 
for us to proceed to the southern coast of Greenland. Not- 
withstanding the opinion of authorities, however, the peo- 
ple in general looked upon us as little less than crazy for 
attempting to go on at all, after our unfortunate experience. 
A small party of excursionists were skirting about the 
suburbs of St. John's one morning, when they came across 
the lunatic asylum, and thought they would like to inspect 
it. They rang the bell, and the door was opened by an 
attendant, who said that visitors were not admitted upon 
that day. 

" We come from the Miranda," said one of the. party, 
starting to explain, 

The door was then opened wide. 

" Walk right in," responded the attendant, " and make 
yourselves at home." 

On July 28 the long suffering Miranda received her 
final hammering and a start was made for South Greenland. 
For three days and nights we bowled along, and then a fog 
thick and dense fell around us. For days we drifted about 
without anybody knowing exactly where we were, for no 
accurate observations could be taken. Sometimes the fog 
would lift, to reveal that we were surrounded by floe ice 
and icebergs. We coasted along this ice in fog and rain 
attempting to find a passage through it. The long 
stretches of ice, the huge icebergs towering like mountains 
above, and the roaring O'f the waves dashing against the 
ice-floe, combined to make a scene both impressive and 
awful. 

We caught our first sight of the Greenland coast on 
the morning of August 3. The lofty peaks of Mount 

277 



THE WHITE WORLD 

Nautsarsorfike and Mount Kunguat could be discerned, 
and were perhaps seventy miles distant. There was much 
floe ice between us and the land, and also to the westward, 
the ice seeming to form a continuous line along the hori- 
zon. Then the fog closed all about us again, and the 
ship was obliged to lie to with the ice all around it. To 
the westward there was a continuous roar as of waves 
beating upon a rocky shore, but it was the roar of the ice- 
pack. 

Finally the fog lifted and disclosed an alarming state 
of affairs, for the floe was closing in upon the ship. West 
of us was a line of pack ice like a wall, only about half 
a mile away, while to the east was another ice wall. The 
Miranda fled in a southeasterly direction, and beat a most 
interesting retreat through shapes and forms of ice of all 
varieties and colors. Slowly the ship picked its way 
through the ice-belt and at last we left the dangerous pack 
behind. Then the fog fell again, and for days we drifted 
about, making little progress. 

On the morning of August 7 we again sighted land, 
and the ship was headed for the shore, blowing its whistle 
to attract attention sho-uld there prove to be a settlement 
along the coast. For an hour or so we lay to, blowing 
fierce blasts from the whistle and firing the ship's cannon. 
After a time two little specks were made out and before 
long shaped themselves into Eskimo kayaks. Soon a large 
boat hove in sight and made directly for the ship. It con- 
tained several Eskimo who came on board and piloted our 
vessel into a snug little harbor surrounded by islands. 
Here was the Eskimo settlement of Sukkertoppen (Sugar 
Loaf), presided over by a Danish governor. On a hill we 
saw a staff flying the Danish flag, and collected about it a 
crowd of Eskimo, men and women, who were apparently 
in a great state of excitement, and looking down at us with 
every evidence of curiosity and interest. As soon as the 
ship dropped anchor, boats were lowered and we were 
soon on shore. Here the entire population, about four 
hundred souls, had gathered just in front of the governor's 
house, and received us with every expression of simple- 
minded wonder and delight. 

After paying our respects to Governor Bistrup and his 

278 



THE UNFORTUNATE MIRANDA 

family, we scattered over the settlement and had great 
sport with the natives, who followed us about with the 
keenest interest, and were particularly desirous of securing 
tobacco. It was not long before the commercial spirit dis- 
played itself on both sides, and many of our party went back 
to the ship to gather material for trading which they had 
brought with them. They returned bearing bags of every 
description filled with knicknacks and old clothes. The 
place looked as if it were being overrun with Hebrew 
pedlars, and the scene was comical in the extreme. Some 
stood upon rocks, surrounded by an excited crowd of 
Eskimo, and peddled their goods to the highest bidder, 
the Eskimo giving in exchange fur garments, kamics, and 




THE MIRANDA RAMMING THE ICEBERG 



all sorts of apparel of Eskimo manufacture, besides dolls 
dressed in Eskimo furs and little model kayaks. Others 
of our party made a regular house to house, igloo to igloo, 
canvass, and had great times dickering with the residents 



279 



THE WHITE WORLD 

thereof ; for bargaining- had to be carried on by signs not 
always rightly interpreted. Such a babel of tongues as 
arose, such shouts of laughter, had probably never before 
been heard in Sukkertoppen. 

Ribbons appeared to make the most popular appeal io 
the Eskimo' women, and they went like hot cakes. A man 
with a sufficient supply of ribbons could soon have owned 
the town. All the women wore ribbons in their hair, 
which was tied up in a top-knot. These ribbons were 
worn not only for ornament, but also to designate the lady's 
condition. Maids wore red, married women blue, widows 
black, and those who were neither maid, wife nor widow, 
green. Some of the widows wore black and red ribbons 
interlaced, a sort of quick or the dead colors, which indi- 
cated a willingness to marry again. 

It chanced that a young theological student had brought 
with him a great roll of green ribbon, and when he saw 
how popular ribbons were, he produced his roll and un- 
wound it before a lot of maidens and their mothers. The 
hilarity that he occasioned embarrassed him, and when he 
attempted to hand his ribbons for examination to any of 
the girls the manner in which they ran laughing from 
him filled him with astonishment and embarrassed him all 
the more. When an ethnologist of the expedition, learned 
in Eskimo lore, explained to him the significance of the 
wearing of the green, he immediately retired in confusion 
to the Miranda, where he could blush unseen. 

Of all the members of the expedition none gave the 
natives such amusement as did our English representa- 
tive. Clad in a yellow oil-skin suit, and with his eye-glass 
in his ocular, he solemnly paraded about the settlement 
ogling the girls with a stony British stare. His absolute 
lack of any sense of humor, or of the incongruity of his 
make up, rendered his appearance all the more comical. 

He was with a party of us who visited a glacier up one 
of the fiords, about thirty miles away. When we arrived 
at the foot of the glacier, we were quite worn with our 
exertions. There was a bright sun and the day was warm 
for Greenland. When we disembarked, the Englishman 
declared he must have a bath, and disrobing, jumped 
into the shallow water. Its icy coldness caused him to 

280 



THE UNFORTUNATE MIRANDA 

jump out again with a howl. Then a dense throng- of 
mosquitoes and black flies settled upon him, for these are 
wonderfully numerous along the banks of Greenland's 
fiords, and rise in perfect swarms. When this happened, 
there arose still louder howls as our English friend made 
a grab for his garments, and for a time rushed in agony 
along the strip of rock beach, wildly flapping at his tor- 
mentors with his undergarments. He was the entomolo- 
gist of the party, and probably at no time in his life had 
he collected so large a number of specimens about him. 

In climbing a glacier, " peaks on peaks " arise, and none 
of us was able to reach the top, for our time was too 
limited; but at an altitude of about twenty-five hundred 
feet we enjoyed a magnificent view of numerous islands 
and fiords that lay below, of the mainland of Greenland, 
and of the great ocean beyond. Twice we crossed spurs 
of the glacier. Our feet sank deep in the soft and melting 
snow, for the sun was so hot that we stripped ourselves of 
coats as we ascended. The moss that covered the rocks 
was green and beautiful, and scattered about this moss in 
rich profusion were great numbers of wild flowers, gor- 
geous in their hues. That evening we started back 'for 
the ship and after a hard pull reached the Miranda in the 
early morning. A few hours later the vessel started again 
northward. Thoroughly tired I was sleeping heavily in 
a top bunk, while below me was my English friend, also 
overcome by his exertions. I was awakened by the 
noise of the moving ship, and from out my port-hole 
could see quite a fleet of kayaks racing along, and keeping 
pace with the steamer. A high sea was running and the little 
boats would sometimes be hidden from sight in the trough, 
then rise in an instant on the crest of a wave, down which 
they would shoot again like a toboggan. Gradually the 
kayaks were distanced one by one, and still feeling stiff, I 
lay down in my bunk again and dropped to sleep. 

I was awakened a second time, by a tremendous crash; 
it seemed as if the whole ship was being torn to pieces, and 
to a terrible ripping sound was added the din of breaking 
glass and china. We had struck with fearful force upon 
some sunken reefs, and men, furniture, and everything 
loose about the ship were thrown about in the wildest 

281 



THE WHITE WORLD 

confusion. I was pitched in a heap upon the floor of the 
cabin, and, as I arose, my English friend who was in the 
act of dressing himself drawled out " Oh, I beg your par- 
don, Walsh, I've got your breeches on, you know! " I 
could not help laughing though I thought my last hour had 
come. I donned whatever came to hand and hastily we 
climbed on deck. The ship jarred and grated and bumped, 
but finally aided by the high sea got clear of the reefs. 
Whether it was about to sink or not nobody knew. 

On deck there was a scene of wild confusion. Many 
were rushing about with life preservers, some were work- 
ing at the boats to get them lowered, and others were 
bringing their most valuable possessions up from their 
cabins. Our German photographer appeared with his 
hands full of pipes and bags of tobacco, and called out: 

" Save your tobacco, boys, the ship's sinking." In the 
excitement of the moment all sorts of odd things were 
seized. I saw one man in a night shirt with a gun in one 
hand and a life preserver in the other; another had the 
ship's cat pressed against his bosom. A member with 
very white gills rushed up to a distinguished professor, 
"Are we going down, Professor," he asked, "Are we going 
down?" 

" Well, if you do go down," philosophically remarked 
the professor, " you will go down in exceedingly good 
company." 

Our whistles were kept blowing continually, and the 
solitary cannon was fired off at rapid intervals as we turned 
back and made for Sukkertoppen. It was discovered that 
the aft ballast tank was full of water, but as our pumps 
appeared able to keep the leakage from gaining on us 
rapidly, there was apparently no immediate danger. Es- 
kimo pilots reached us and by eleven o'clock we were 
safely anchored in the harbor of Sukkertoppen, and the 
Miranda was tied with cables to ring-bolts in the rocks. 
Here a careful examination as to the damage was made, 
and though this could not be fully ascertained, it was dis- 
covered that whatever hole the rocks had made was just 
beneath the ballast-tank. This tank extended the whole 
width of the ship, and lay beneath the engine room and 
stoke-hole. It had filled with water and the pumps could 

282 



THE UNFORTUNATE MIRANDA 

make no impression upon it. It was fortunate that the 
force of the blows had been sustained by this portion of 
the ship, for had the rocks gored anywhere else the vessel 
would have gone to the bottom at once. The top of the 
ballast-tank acted as a false bottom and kept us afloat, 
but this was thin and coated with rust, liable to burst at 
any minute if subjected to a rough sea. Hence the captain 
decided that it would be unsafe to venture forth in the 
Miranda, and the problem of how we were to get home 
stared us in the face. 

We were stranded in Greenland with provisions already 
running low, and the settlement could not afford us any, 
as it had a bare sufficiency for itself. There was no 
chance of getting away before the following Spring, unless 
we could secure a vessel. We learned from the Eskimo 
that there were two or three American fishing schooners 
at the fishing banks off Holsteinberg, about a hundred 
and fifty miles away. This offered a chance of getting 
back to civilization, and under the command of Dr. Cook 
a relief party started for Holsteinborg in an open sailboat 
which Governor Bistrup placed at the disposal of the party. 
A Dane and five picked Eskimo were taken along to act 
as pilots and couriers. On the same day two other parties 
started away from the ship, one to explore the Similik 
glacier, and one to hunt and fish up the Isortok fiord, and 
thus to attempt an addition to the slender store of pro- 
visions. Of the latter party I was a member. We took 
along with us Clark, one of the waiters, and five Eskimo 
as guides and to assist in propelling the boats, of which we 
had two, well loaded with tents, provisions, guns, etc. 

As we were proceeding on our way, we met a large 
boatful of Eskimo men and women, returning from a fish- 
ing trip. We stopped and exchanged greetings, also a 
couple of plugs of tobacco and a mouth organ for some 
very fine salmon. The Eskimo went on their way re- 
joicing, sending forth a concourse of sweet sounds from 
the mouth organ. They probably thought us a very simple 
sort of folk to part with so rare and wonderful an instru- 
ment for just a mess of fish. In the evening we reached an 
island near the mouth of Isortok fiord, and here we pitched 
our tents to rest and sleep. 

283 



THE WHITE WORLD 

The next day it was raining very hard and the Eskimo 
told us by means of signs that we could not proceed. 
They are po-sitive weather prophets and they understand 
their own climate pretty well. They would listen to no 
arguments, but dove into a little cavern wherein they had 
made their quarters, the mouth of which they had covered 
with a sail. It was evidently a favorite resort for Eskimo 
outing parties, for it was full of fish bones and refuse of 
all kinds, and had a most abominable odor; this seemed 
to make our natives feel at home. The Eskimo must 
delight in odors, he carries such powerful ones about with 
him. We were forced to the windward of our guides, 
otherwise they would have been intolerable. 

It rained and rained and rained. The night that followed 
was the worst I ever spent. Our tent had been injudi- 
ciously pitched on a side hill, and a small waterfall perco- 
lated through the mossy floor, which now resembled a wet 
sponge. We could make no fire because there was noth- 
ing to burn, and the night was very cold. We had a 
little oil stove which we kept going until it burned out, but 
this did not help matters much. The tent's roof was so 
wet that great drops continually fell upon our upturned 
faces, as we lay huddled together in the middle of the 
camp, and I could push my boot down in the wet moss 
and hear the water gurgle. There was not much sleep 
that night for anybody. We fell to talking about com- 
fortable waterproof beds in order to divert our minds. 

" Did you ever sleep in two empty flour barrels? " re- 
marked Clark, whose experiences appeared to have been 
varied. 

" No," replied a voice, " I'll admit that I have been in- 
toxicated, but I have never been that bad." Nevertheless 
Clark went on to describe how good and dry a couch 
could be made of two empty barrels, and the idea of any 
kind of dry couch was comforting. 

For three days we were cooped up by this storm, and 
then the glad sunlight broke and wooed us back to rejoice 
in life again. We pulled about thirty miles up the fiord 
before we went into camp upon a mossy plateau on the 
banks of a narrow stream. All around us great mountains 
rose, and near by a huge glacier coursed downward to the 

284 



THE UNFORTUNATE MIRANDA 

sea. For several mornings we got up at five o'clock, and 
each taking an Eskimo guide went his way to hunt the 
reindeer which are said to inhabit these regions. But not 
a deer was sighted. Though we got no deer, we caught 




ESKIMO AT PLAY 



quantities of salmon and salmon trout in the stream that 
ran by our camp, which was simply teeming with fish. 
But I must refrain from mention of the large numbers of 
fish we captured; people in our own well-fished regions 
would never believe the exploits that I could tell; suffice 
it to say that when we started back for the Miranda we 
carried to our comrades two hundred pounds of salmon. 
When we reached the ship we found that the glacier 
party had returned, but Dr. Cook and his party had not 
yet been heard from. The glacier explorers had been 
caught in the same storm that overtook us, and had much 
the same experience, being confined to their camp by the 
fury of the elements. When the storm abated, they had 
explored and measured several glaciers in the vicinity of 
the camp, which was pitched close by a little Eskimo settle- 
ment. In front of the camp ran a brook, in which the 
explorers performed their ablutions. The Eskimo would 
gather to watch them go through these strange perform- 
ances. The process of brushing the teeth filled them with 
unbounded wonder, and when one of the party removed 

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THE WHITE WORLD 

a set of artificial teeth and washed it, there was a terrified 
stampede, and he became an object of superstitious awe 
and veneration. Surely a man who could remove his 
teeth could remove mountains. 

On the morning following our return to the ship, a great 
cheer arose which brought all hands on deck. A small 
schooner was seen making for our harbor, and surrounded 
by great numbers of kayaks. It was not long before Dr. 
Cook and his party came rowing over to the Miranda, and 
they were received with great enthusiasm, as can well be 
imagined. The schooner they had secured was the Rigel, 
commanded by Captain George W. Dixon, of Glo'Ucester, 
Massachusetts. The staunch little vessel had been found 
fishing for halibut off the coast of Holsteinborg, and had 
abandoned the fishing grounds to come over and rescue us 
from the cold hospitality of Greenland. 

As soon as agreements had been drawn up between the 
captains of the Miranda and the Rigel, preparations were 
made for the reception of the steamer's passengers on board 
the schooner. Four bunks in the after cabin were re- 
served for the elderly members of the Miranda expedition, 
and a place in the after hold, used mainly as a store room 
for fish and salt was selected as a bunking place for the 
rest of us. A space was cleared about twenty feet long, 
fifteen feet wide, and four feet high ; and through a door 
which communicated with the cabin we crawled to our pen; 
not very commodious or sweet-smelling quarters, but it 
was the best that could be done. 

It was cold, misty and drizzling the next morning when 
we made a start for home. Canvas had been spread over 
the salt and fish in the after hold, and over this we put our 
berth mattresses side by side. We fitted in as tightly as 
sardines. On account of the limited space we could bring 
only a few necessaries into the little vessel, which was but 
ninety-seven feet long, and of one hundred and seven tons 
burden. To ensure against separation in case of fog or in 
the darkness, it was decided that the steamer should tow 
the schooner, so the two were connected with a cable line, 
and a system of signals was arranged in order that the 
vessels could communicate in case of need or accident. It 
was hoped that the Miranda could make the run to St. 

286 



THE UNFORTUNATE MIRANDA 

John's in safety, or, at any rate, that she could be run in 
somewhere on the Labrador coast. As we got under way 
the American flag was hoisted on our main mast and was 
greeted with loud cheers. The Miranda being an Eng- 
lish ship, sailing under an English charter, flew of course 
the British colors. We removed our hats and sang the 
" Star Spangled Banner " and " My Country 'tis of Thee." 
It was an inspiring scene. 

Near us, in a large boat, rowed by Eskimo, was the good 
Governor Bistrup and his family, to whom we were in- 
debted for many courtesies. We gave them cheer upon 
cheer, which they and their Eskimo rowers returned. All 
about us the little kayaks darted until the rowers waved 
us a last good-bye. On shore a solid phalanx of Eskimo 
was drawn up firing salute upon salute. Slowly the 
Miranda turned out of the harbor into the open sea; the 
mists fell about us and the shores of Greenland were 
hidden from our sight. 

The rain came down steadily with a dreary patter, patter 
on the deck, and continued to fall for four never-to-be- 
forgotten days. There was no shelter to seek on deck of 
any kind; it was cold, wet and disagreeable, while below 
the air was so foul and close that it made most of us sea- 
sick, so that we alternated between the devil and the deep 
sea with a vengeance. To add to the miseries of the situa- 
tion the hatchway which supplied light and air to the after 
hold had to be shut clown on account of the rough weather, 
for the waves were washing over the decks. At night the 
combined and generous odor of fish and bilge water, the 
extremely close quarters, and the groans, to say nothing 
of other noises of the seasick ones, made us feel as if we 
had descended into a veritable inferno. But " adaptation 
to environment," says Spencer, " is the law of life," and in 
accordance with this kindly law, we gradually grew accus- 
tomed to our surroundings, and our sense of smell became 
dulled, even to bilge water. 

On our second day out, we encountered many swells, 
and fears began to be entertained for the Miranda. When 
night fell, a red lisrht gleamed from the steamer's deck, in- 
dicating that trouble was anticipated. At midnight three 
shrieks came from the steamer's whistle in rapid succes- 

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THE WHITE WORLD 

sion. This was the signal that she was in distress. The 
Miranda slackened her speed, and as the two vessels drew 
close together, Captain Farrell, of the Miranda, warned 
Captain Dixon to be in readiness, for the steamer was in 
a sinking condition; the rnsty top of the ballast tank had 
gone to pieces. From the deck of the Rigel we could 
dimly see the preparations going on aboard the Miranda 
in case she should suddenly founder. Our captain had 
urged Captain Farrel to drop into the boats with his crew, 
and abandon the ship. This meant to himself the loss of 
salvage, but the only thought of this big-hearted captain 
was for the safety of his fellow-men upon the doomed ship. 

As the grey dawn began to streak the sky, the first boat- 
load of the Miranda's crew came rowing over to the Rigel, 
whose little dories were also put into the rescue service. 
When the last boat load had reached the schooner, the 
Miranda was abandoned to her fate. Her lights were still 
burning, her rudder had been lashed to one side, and so 
with steam on she vanished in the mist and fog, and was 
lost to sight forever. With the ship the members of the 
expedition lost all their belongings, except the very few 
necessities they had brought with them on the schooner. 
These losses embraced valuable ethnological and botanical 
collections, a great number of guns and scientific instru- 
ments, and various collections of photographs of Arctic 
scenes and people, and quantities of stuffed Arctic birds, 
seals, skins, etc. However, the saving of our own skins 
was a matter for rejoicing, and the losses were cheerfully 
accepted by all hands. 

With the Miranda's crew, there were now ninety-three 
souls on board the little schooner, which was but ninety- 
seven feet long. Fogs, head winds, high seas, and ice- 
bergs combined to render the journey dangerous and slow, 
as well as uncertain. Provisions ran low, so we shot gulls, 
and reveled in seagull stews. When feasible, we added 
to our store by running in at two or three settlements 
along the Labrador coast. 

On the night of September 2, we encountered a -severe 
gale, and for several hours we were obliged to lay to under 
a triple reefed foresail and forestay sail. The hatchways 
were closed tight, and to add to our discomfort, the stove 

288 



THE UNFORTUNATE MIRANDA 

in the cabin just in front of our sleeping pen began to pour 
out volumes of smoke that almost choked us. One wise 
individual suggested that salt be thrown on the fire to put 
it out. The suggestion was acted upon and several shovel- 
fuls of salt were thrust into the stove with such excellent 
effect that we were nearly suffocated by chlorine gas and 
the dense volume of smoke that now issued forth and settled 
all over us. Every one gasped for breath and hurled in- 
vectives at the head of the unfortunate man who had sug- 
gested this method of putting out a fire. Had he been 
turned, like Lot's wife, into a pillar of salt, I think we 
should have all rejoiced; it would have been a punishment 
to fit the crime. 

However, the nuisance gradually abated, and although 
the odor abided with us all night and fought with fish and 
bilge water for supremacy, yet being now hardened, we 
were enabled to snatch some sleep despite the gale and 
the closeness of the quarters. A small party near me, hud- 
dled together in sitting postures, kept me wide awake 
for a while by an earnest discussion of the effect of salt 
upon fire, as if it had not been sufficiently demonstrated. 
One man in particular advanced his arguments in an almost 
continuous stream. His extraordinary volubility had a 
certain fascination about it, and I could not choose but 
hear. At length in a dreamy state, I gave myself up to 
the purely sensuous enjoyment of watching his jaws wag, 
and so fell asleep. 

We were now nearing Sydney, Cape Breton, and we be- 
gan to pass fishing schooners whose occupants eyed our 
swarming vessel with amazement. We must have resem- 
bled a pirate crew with numberless captives. At length, 
after a memorable voyage of fifteen days, we entered once 
more the fine harbor of Sydney. It was a wild, unshaved, 
unkept party of men that rushed upon Sydney's shore that 
day, but a most hilarious and joyous one. A dinner at the 
Sydney Hotel was arranged for all hands in the evening, 
and it was a motley and hungry gang that marched through 
Sydney to a haven of rest and plenty. Many of the party 
were decked out in yellow oil-skins which had seen much 
service, so that from a distance they looked not unlike' a 
flock of dirty canary birds. Others were arrayed in a 

291 



THE WHITE WORLD 

variety of weather-beaten garments that had not been 
changed since the day of farewell to Sukkertoppen. 

The next morning- the members of the expedition took 
a small steamer for Halifax, and from there went on to New 
York on board the steamer Portia, a sister ship to the 
Miranda. Even here ill-luck attended them, for a fog 
descended, and in the fog the steamer ran into a schooner 
and completely cut it in two. The captain of the schooner, 
the steward, and two sailors were lost with the ship; only 
the mate being rescued by a lifeboat from the steamer. 
Since that time the Portia herself has met her fate, for 
later, she ran upon rocks and sank off the coast of Nova 
Scotia. And so these sister ships, named after Shake- 
speare's heroines, have both suffered a sea change in much 
the same manner. Perchance elective affinity has brought 
them together far down amid the mighty procession of 
wrecks in the deep waters of the North Atlantic. 

We were nearing home and a few of us were sitting 
upon the deck of the Portia looking out upon the wrinkled 
sea. Suddenly it struck me that it would be a pity that 
so many good fellows already bound together by the ties 
of common experiences should lose trace of each other 
when the busy swarming land should be reached. I there- 
fore suggested that we should organize a club as a link 
to join all the members of Dr. Cook's Arctic expedition 
and keep them from entirely losing track of each other. 
The suggestion was accepted, and that afternoon, in the 
smoking-room of the Portia the Arctic club was formed, 
which it was agreed should assemble at an annual dinner 
sometime between Christmas and New Year's Day. 

From such meetings, confined at first to members of 
Dr. Cook's expedition, has grown the Arctic Club of to-day, 
which now embraces in its membership every prominent 
polar explorer in the United States. It has become a rep- 
resentative club, the only one of its kind in existence; and 
now about its board men who have made their names 
famous in Arctic work are wont to gather, and over the 
walnuts and wine, recount their strange and exciting experi- 
ences in the great " White World." 



292 



AN ARTIST IN THE FROZEN ZONE 



ALBERT OPERTI. 

Albert Operti was born in Turin, Italy, March, 
1852. Historical Arctic painter; member of 
Peary's Arctic Expeditions, 1896 and 1897. 
Made first casts of North Greenland Eskimos. 
Paintings, Farthest North obtained by Officers 
of U. S. Army; Rescue of Greely; Finding of 
De Long by Melville, " Farewell." Second 
Grinnell Expedition. 




i 



ALBERT OPERTI 



AN ARTIST IN THE FROZEN ZONE 

By ALBERT OPERTI 




F THE reader imagine himself writing letters 
seated in an express wagon which is being 
driven rapidly over a rubble-stone roadway, 
on a cold, snowy, blowy day in February, 
then he may gain some idea of the conditions 
under which the work of taking plaster casts 
of the Eskimo was effected during the trip 
North with the Peary expedition of 1896. 
Without studio facilities, with few tools, and 
with every inconvenience possible to encounter, the work 
was successfully performed. A few casts were made in 
semi-comfort, on board and ashore, but at all other times 
under great difficulties. 

The necessary outfit consisted of five barrels of fine qual- 
ity plaster of Paris, three gallons of vaseline, two hundred 
pounds of modeling clay, some salt, and a few iron pails. 
These were especially packed and shipped from New York 
to be put on board the steam sealer " Hope," at Sidney, 
Cape Breton. My personal outfit for this work was made- 
up of a bundle of quill toothpicks, cotton batting, a ball 
of twine, tissue paper, tape measure, calipers, and a few 
modeling tools. The plaster of Paris was stowed in the 
hold near the boiler to prevent moisture — -which reached 
it, nevertheless. 

I found from experience that vaseline was more con- 
venient in the oil state. In the original form it would 
freeze hard and required constant heating over the boiler, 
to the detriment of the work. 

Upon reaching Cape York, the Eskimo came over the 
ice to the ship, fog preventing our going close to the 

297 



THE WHITE WORLD 

shore. About twenty of them were looked over and se- 
lected as models and subjects. Coffee and ship-biscuits 
were served to them to gain their confidence. These Es- 
kimo were allowed to remain on board to make fur cloth- 
ing, be measured, painted, photographed and cast. Care- 
ful and accurate measurements were made and recorded on 
blanks brought for the purpose. Most of them were short 
of stature, both men and women, with very small feet and 
hands, short arms and legs; they were rather long waisted 
and broad shouldered. Many had well shaped figures and 
limbs. The faces of some of the young people were good 
looking, despite the dirt. 

Some of the men, women and children were housed be- 
tween decks. A tent was triced up, with a couple of oil 
stoves to warm the interior, and my work began. The 
fog had lifted, the " Hope " was headed up the coast for 
Whale Sound, the wind began to blow, and the ice became 
thicker. We had to punch our way through to gain time. 

The " Hope " would thump into a mass and rise, slide 
back some yards to get headway, then push forward again ; 
the great ice masses grinding and crunching along her 
sides. We would rock from side to side, sometimes upset- 
ting articles which were not secured. Fearful squalls of 
snow would come down the mountain side and sweep over 
the decks, causing everything to rattle and shake. The 
captain, up in the crow's nest, the mate, in the foretop, 
and the boatswain, on the bridge, were passing the word, 
"Port!" or "Starboard!" to the man at the wheel, thus 
picking out the soft spots through the ice floes. 

I took sketches with half frozen fingers, for it is fearfully 
cold there when the wind blows, even in summer. Mean- 
while a couple of the crew were fishing for my plaster. 
It appeared, damp to the core. But there was no time 
to lose, so pail after pail was carried to the engine room 
to dry. 

Bang! We struck a mass of ice as the ship rocked to 
one side. I clutched my pails filled with plaster. The bar- 
rel tried to go over the side, but a quick lashing to the 
ship's pump saved it. My model was in waiting for me 
during all this. 

Each man had his own affairs to look after. I had to 

298 



AN ARTIST IN THE FROZEN ZONE 

get along as best I could and act as my own assistant. 
Once in a while I would get a chance, and approach 
Lieutenant Peary, who, with the captain, had all he could 
do to see ahead, to ask him to come and speak to one 
of my subjects regarding disrobing. 

At first they were not inclined to allow themselves to be 
thus used. Indeed, I was fearful of results, but the prom- 
ise of presents very soon conquered their objections. 
After several hours of the greatest excitement, some dirt 




MAKING A CAST UNDER DIFFICULTIES 



was scraped and washed off, a small stick with a little 
piece of canvas tied on the end being used to rub over the 
flesh. The use of soft soap and warm water from the 



299 



THE WHITE WORLD 



boiler, which in less than ten minutes became cold, then 
a scrubbing, and my subject was ready for oiling. The 
odor was anything but pleasant. Matt Hensen came to my 
rescue, helping to clean and rub. Mr. Figgins, our taxi- 
dermist, and Mr. Lee also assisted at times. 

My casting sometimes was 
performed in the hold, by the 
light of several candles. A 
couple of hatch covers were laid 
side by side over one of the 
coal bins, as a floor. The model 
was placed on his back and told 
to lie still. 

Getting clay into shape and 
mixing plaster, when my sur- 
roundings were unstable and 
threatening to fall apart every 
moment, were not quite to my 
taste. Referring to my field 
notes, I find that one eye was 
constantly on the ship's side, 
expecting to see the crunching 
ice come through. The terrible 
grinding along the sides would make every one of us start. 
At times my mould would split in pieces. 

After a few were cast I had little trouble so far as my 
subjects were concerned. They were willing to have hands, 
feet and faces cast. I selected one Eskimo, a bright, quick- 
witted fellow named Keshu, to carry water for me. He 
was always jolly and smiling, quick to repeat words, and 
already knew considerable. A very good cast of his face 
was made, also of his son Mene, a smart little fellow, who, 
with five other Eskimo, was brought to the United States 
on board the " Hope." Four of these died; one returned 
with Lieutenant Peary; Mene has become Americanized, 
and is now living with an American family. 

Some of the old Eskimo came in for their share, and 
full figures of male and female were secured. At Meteorite 
Island, while working on the meteorite which was brought 
to the United States, the tent was pitched on shore, and a 
standing figure cast, which almost went to destruction. 




FIRST ESKIMO BUST 



300 



AN ARTIST IN THE FROZEN ZONE 

We could only remain a certain length of time, for fear 
of being frozen in for the whole winter, as the ice was 
making fast. The wind almost blew the tent down during 
our preparations. It was impossible to keep the oil stoves 
lighted, rain and snow fell, and uncertain light made work- 
ing most difficult. Yet here was my chance; the Eskimo, 
shivering despite the blankets wrapped around him, was 
standing in position. My plan was to get as much of 
him at one casting as possible, for it was the last chance 
of the season. A thick wall of clay was built around 
him. Mr. Figgins and myself painted him all over with 
vaseline. Pail after pail of plaster was mixed and poured 
over the shivering body; the dust from the barrel as the 
plaster was shoveled out filled the tent and made us look 
like millers. I believe the chattering Eskimo was prom- 
ised a gun to stand this dose. 

Five pails had been mixed and we had to hurry. It was 
like feeding torpedo boilers. Slowly the white fluid rose 
around the Eskimo. Our backs ached; perspiration 
dripped from our brows and froze. Outside the gale was 
furious, for the wind had risen and we were having bad 
weather. The work on the meteorite occupied all the 
attention of every one else. I saw that I should need 
more help ere the plaster reached the shoulders. In went 
pail after pail. I was trying to speak Eskimo words, 
English — anything to keep the model quiet. Figgins also 
tried Eskimo. I called for some one to give me a hand, 
but no one heard. Suddenly I saw Figgins throw his arms 
around the lower part of the figure, as the beautiful plaster 
began to ooze out. I frantically threw myself around it 
also and hugged on the other side. Meanwhile the Eskimo 
commenced shouting something, which brought some of 
the tribe to the tent They poked their heads through 
the tent flap, giggled, laughed, and kept on laughing. 

At this moment I felt that unless I got help, the whole 
thing would fall apart. I shouted "Help!" twice, then 
"Bear a hand, quick!" This brought five of the sailors 
and Captain Bartlett, who on the instant burst out laugh- 
ing to see Figgins, who was six feet tall, and myself, four 
feet four inches, spread out like eagles on the ground 
with our arms around the mass of man, clay and plaster. 

301 



THE WHITE WORLD 

I sputtered out to them to grab the thing and hold it 
together. All, of one accord, did so. I got up to think 
a moment and then laughed myself. The sight was the 
funniest I ever saw, but I had to save my mould. Slowly 
each man drew away, the plaster getting the " set." After 
a few moment's rest, we had to cut the " husky " out of 
his crust. For the next hour and a half it was hammer, 
split, and wedge. Piece after piece came off, till finally 
the native was liberated, more dead than alive. He was 
wrapped in blankets and carried to the galley fire, where 
hot brandy and coffee were given him. Two of the natives 
rubbed him with canvas to restore warmth. 

I returned to look after the wreck. I believe I worked 
harder during those three hours than I ever did in my 
life before. Figgins had a backache for three days. After 
this, word had evidently traveled through the tribe to look 
out for opixudh, which is the Eskimo name for white owl. 

Taking the cast of the face, the most difficult work of 
all, gave me much trouble, as the subject had to lie on his 
back, allow a quill to be stuffed up each nostril with cotton 
batting, and tissue paper over the eyes and mouth, while 
the skin was well oiled, clay built around the head, and 
plaster poured over all. The heat from the plaster as it 
hardened often blistered the skin, and just as the " set " 
was reached, the fellow would blow up, and away would 
go the mask, cracked and broken. I would save these 
pieces and try again, until I secured many good masks. 
All of these were then packed in sawdust, boxed up and 
stowed away, to be worked over some day for the Museum 
of Natural History in New York. I had thus the honor 
to be the first professional artist to take casts of the Arctic 
Highlanders over the Arctic Circle. 

My outfit for art work on these voyages to the Arctic was 
at first elaborate; subsequently very simple. A good sup- 
ply of colors in oil, water, pastels and crayon, academy 
boards, sketch books, easels and all the usual tools of a well- 
appointed studio were placed on board; but with few ex- 
ceptions I might have saved much expense, which, on my 
return, I charged up to " experience." For instance, my 
sketching umbrella, stool and many other things with which 
I had carefully provided myself, were never used. 

302 



AN ARTIST IN THE FROZEN ZONE 



The expedition was not a sketching tour, and I soon 
found I had to seize the opportunities for this work as 
they presented themselves. The bewildering beauties of 
sunrise, day and sunset, as we sailed northward, called for 
the simple materials at hand at all times; neither could the 
ship be stopped to allow of a sketch 
or painting, so my work must be 
made with rapidity. In storm, wind, 
rain and snow, rough and smooth 
seas, at all times, pallet and brush 
worked constantly; in all tempera- 
tures, uncomfortable positions and 
situations I lost nothing, for I con- 
sidered the great event in my life 
had come; to paint at the very heels 
of the Polar explorer, on his field of 
action, when the stern reality at- 
tending a journey to the Far North 
was an ever-present fact. 

My working outfit during the 
voyage was simple; a box, some- 
thing like a knapsack, provided with 
grooves in which half a dozen acad- 
emy boards were fitted, an extra 
groove to receive a pallet charged 
with colors, some painting rags and 
a handful of brushes. With this out- 
fit some four hundred sketches in all were made. On my 
second trip north, having learned by experience, I pro- 
vided myself with a box furnished with a cloth flap to 
keep out rain and snow and which could be fastened upon 
my shoulders. 

As the expedition steamed toward the scene of great 
Arctic tragedies and mysteries the desire that nothing 
should escape pencil or brush kept me on deck often eigh- 
teen or twenty hours out of the twenty-four. And what 
a world I found myself passing through; icebergs, great 
towering hills of glittering crystal; the rugged and beautiful 
coast of Labrador, beautiful atmospheric effects: all were 
captured in color; and all around me the photographers of 
the party were busy. Then, as we pushed farther north, 




HIGHLANDERS 



303 



THE WHITE WORLD 

what emotions stirred me as we stood upon the threshold 
of the land which had witnessed so much suffering; the land 
of Doctor Kane, Hayes, Captain Hall, Greely and others. 
To pick up relics of bygone days, to mentally review, as I 
worked, the narratives of those, daring explorers, to feel 
the same cold breath of the ice-bound world that had locked 
them in; many a time have the tears dimmed my eyes and 
frozen upon my cheeks at the recollection of the men who 
had starved in that Polar land, as I painted the barren 
rocks, the scene of their suffering, in that great region of 
awful solitude. 

Visiting Port Fanke, where Doctor Hayes wintered in 
company with Lieutenant Peary, the grave of Professor 
Tonntag impressed me deeply. It had been disturbed, pos- 
sibly by bears, for a skull and a few bones were all that 
remained. That great mind, astronomer of the expedition, 
had passed away in the midst of his beautiful work in the 
Far North and was buried there alone; yet not alone — a 
few other graves are scattered over the Arctic Circle: 
at Cape Sabine, where nineteen men ended their suffering 
and toil. Nor do I forget Lifeboat Cove, where the Polaris 
was wrecked and nineteen of her crew went adrift on a 
field of ice, to live one hundred and ninety-six days, until 
rescued by the U. S. S. Tigress off Labrador. 

Surrounded by these scenes I worked incessantly, for 
time and the ice did not permit a long stop in our journey- 
ings. Nor is the difficulty of reaching these places appre- 
ciated by those who' have never tried it, neither the trials 
of one who undertakes in the Arctic regions the work I had 
in hand. These regions are replete in color, form and never- 
ending variety; animal and bird life and the Eskimos were 
another source of food for the painter's brush. I returned, 
as it were, with a new set of brains and the fascination still 
holds me to revisit that northern land, did health permit. 
For perfect health is one of the first requisites for a journey 
to the Arctic, whether it be for work or pleasure. Pleasure, 
indeed, there is if one chooses the proper season. I would 
advise my brethren in art, and sisters also, to visit the 
Danish Eskimo settlements of Greenland during the sum- 
mer months ; they will find beauties there of which we never 
dream in our more temperate zone. 

304 



ARCTIC FRIENDS AND ENEMIES 



ANDREW JACKSON STONE. 

Andrew J. Stone was born in Missouri, 1859. 
Has traveled over almost all parts of Arctic 
and Sub-Arctic America. Sledged the extreme 
Arctic coast throughout an entire winter. Is 
making special study of animal-life of the Far 
North. 




ANDREW JACKSON STONE 



ARCTIC FRIENDS AND ENEMIES 

By ANDREW J. STONE 




HEN one glances at a chart of the vast 
region of country that stretches away 
to the north of the United States and 
Canada, washed by the waters of Hud- 
son Bay on the east, Bering Sea on 
the west, and the great Arctic Ocean 
on the north, he has before him an 
Arctic wilderness so great as to cause 
every section of the Arctics, where exhaustive research has 
been conducted, to seem small in comparison. Yet this 
expanse has been avoided and neglected by almost all 
explorers, naturalists and scientists, while in many places 
along the shore of Greenland, Spitzbergen and Franz 
Josef Land the stones have been turned over many 
times in the hope of finding something new and of interest 
to science. Just why this is so is hardly clear, unless it 
be that most men fear to trust themselves very far from 
the ships or base of food supplies. Certain it is that when 
one enters the heart of this great wilderness, he is further 
from civilization in time of travel and further from any 
real base of supplies than the traveler in any other part 
of the Arctics, and I might add that the difficulties of 
travel are almost or quite as great. 

Arctic and sub-Arctic America is rich in its animal and 
plant life. There is material which is of a hundred times 
greater importance to either the scientific or commercial 
world than that of the more barren islands farther north. 

Its zoological, botanical, geological and mineralogical 
wealth is unquestionably great, to an extent that is not to 
be compared with that of Greenland and other northern 
regions. The influence of this will be strongly felt in the 
commercial world and many branches of science are bound 

309 



THE WHITE WORLD 

to reap an abundant harvest of rare and beautiful things. 
Within the radius of this same region is the location of 
the magnetic pole, and meteorolgical work finds the great- 
est incentive in latitudes 70 ° to 74 . 

A desire to know what this great unknown north con- 
tains has for a long time appealed to me, and for seven 
years I have traveled it almost constantly — traversing 
its length and breadth, following all of its greatest rivers, 
climbing its mountain ranges, skirting its most distant 
shores, and penetrating its most inaccessible recesses, and 
facing every climatic condition known to it, at every time 
of the year, devoting myself to its animal life with a deter- 
mination to make known its character and make possible 
its classification. Just how well I have succeeded may be 
best appreciated by the very complimentary tribute paid 
me by Dr. J. A. Allen, of the American Museum of Natural 
History, of New York City, in a recent talk before a 
representative body of men interested in such work. Dr. 
Allen said, " Mr. Stone undoubtedly has a better knowl- 
edge of the large mammals of Arctic and sub-Arctic 
America than any other man living." 

When I commenced this work I realized that I was set- 
ting for myself a task so difficult that it was characterized 
by most of those best informed as all but impossible. I 
knew that I must suffer many deprivations, hunger, cold, 
and fatigue, and besides all this if I were to succeed I 
must work, work, work. There was no end of work, 
and as I never had many white companions, and often 
for months I did not have any one with me but the native 
people, I can look back and appreciate that the sole sup- 
port of my health and the one thing that kept my spirits 
alive, was my work. All these years of travel in such 
wild and trackless regions were not lacking in adventure 
and in situations that at times were really dramatic. 

Should I live for a thousand years, my experiences on 
the Liard River, in the spring of 1898, would remain fresh 
in my memory, to the slightest detail. To make my situa- 
tion there best understood, I reached a point on the Liard 
River October 20, 1897, at a point just below Cranberry 
Rapids, a small fur-trading place, where I wintered. 
Thence to a point below Hell Gate Canyon, on the Liard, 

310 



ARCTIC FRIENDS AND ENEMIES 

a distance of one hundred and twenty-five miles, was a con- 
tinuous series of rapids and waterfalls impossible by boat. 

During the winter, with the help of several men, I 
freighted the bulk of my baggage and supplies, almost 
a ton of stuff, on the ice, with dogs, to a point below 
Hell Gate Canyon, where I constructed a strong log 
cache and stored everything very carefully, to await my 
coming in the spring, when I would return to build a boat, 
in which to follow the Liard to the Mackenzie after the 
ice had gone out. To my very great surprise, when I 
reached a point about one mile below Hell Gate Canyon, 
I found two white men in camp, who said they proposed 
to remain there for the winter and then to return to the 
Mackenzie. They represented to me that their food sup- 
ply was a little short and that they had no guns nor am- 
munition, and prevailed on me to supply this need. It 
was finally agreed that I was to send them a gun and 
ammunition and a few other small items in consideration 
for which they were to help me build a boat in the spring 
and aid me to transport my supplies down the Liard to 
the Mackenzie. 

During the winter I had an opportunity to learn some- 
thing of the native people who inhabited the country in 
the neighborhood where my supplies were cached. The 
fur trader with whom I lived was familiar with all their 
doings for years and gave me accounts in detail of many 
of their atrocities, among them the murder of two trusted 
employes of the Hudson Bay Company who were traveling 
through the country, and of two French Canadian trap- 
pers who had gone there to trap for furs. The natives 
around Hell Gate Canyon were not a regular tribe, but 
were a lot of renegades from neighboring tribes banded 
together, after having committed such offenses among 
their own people as to make it necessary for them to find 
a new hunting ground. 

During my winter's stay on the Liard River many ac- 
counts of bloodthirsty and savage deeds came to my notice. 
A few Indians lived near our little trading post, and reports 
of all incidents of importance occurring among neigh- 
boring tribes or people came to them and from them to 
the trader, who communicated them to me. One story 

3ii 



THE WHITE WORLD 




concerned an Indian hunter and his wife, in camp some 
thirty miles from any of their people. Game grew scarce, 
and starvation threatened them. The woman was in deli- 
cate health and unable to travel. The man resolved to 

save his own life by fleeing to his 
people, but being unwilling to 
leave his wife to die, he shot her. 
Another family was in a similar 
situation; the husband in this case 
did not have the heart to kill his 
wife, so he left her without fuel, 
food or blankets, to die by star- 
vation and freezing. 

The two families that lived near 
us during the winter were Kaskas, 
and although they were not a part 
of this renegade band that lived in 
the mountains near Hell Gate, 
yet they received and dispensed the news with perfect 
confidence, as they had never even heard of law or offi- 
cers of the law. While the morals of these two families 
might be, and evidently were, far superior to that of the 
renegades, yet a short sketch of their self-imposed laws 
may make my story more appreciable. One of the families 
consisted of Iron, his invalid wife, a little girl, and a boy 
slave. The other was composed of Powder and his wife. 
Powder was a shamen, or Indian doctor. 

The first I ever saw of Iron was one dreadfully stormy 
night in October. All day a fearful snow storm had 
raged and my helpers and I had worked with a will in 
moving our supplies around Cranberry Rapids. We had 
only just completed this laborious task when night came 
upon us, and in the storm and darkness we groped our 
way while making camp, gathering firewood, and prepar- 
ing for the night. At last we had a large canvas spread, 
under which we placed a bed of pine boughs, and soon 
a huge log fire in front gave cheer and life to the scene. 
Not a bite of food had been tasted since morning, and a 
rousing hot supper was prepared. When all was ready, 
my entire party seated themselves on the pine boughs 
underneath the canvas, and in the warmth reflected by the 



312 



ARCTIC FRIENDS AND ENEMIES 

great log fire we were soon in the midst of an enjoyable 
feast. 

Suddenly there appeared from out the darkness on the 
opposite side of the fire two figures. One was a tall 
man, slightly bent, with sharp features and keenness of 
eye, carrying a rifle. He wore snowshoes and was com- 
fortably clothed for a northern Indian. The other was 
a boy, about twelve years of age, with long, ragged hair, 
clothed in a few filthy rags, and wearing a most pitiful 
look of hunger, misery, and degradation. Both were wet 
with the falling snow, and Mr. Simpson, the fur trader, 
whose companionship and aid it was my good fortune to 
have, invited them under shelter. 

This was the first time I ever saw Iron. He came 
around, and seated himself in a comfortable position, and 
accepted a plate of food. But in spite of Mr. Simpson's 
insisting upon it, the boy remained out in the storm on 
the other side of the fire, leaning against a tree and gaz- 
ing at us with a look of wonder and fear. He was finally, 
however, induced to accept a plate of food that was passed 
over to him, and he devoured it rapidly, still leaning 
against the tree. 

I asked Mr. Simpson why the boy would not come 
around, and he said he did not know. Then I said he must 
be a slave and afraid Iron would punish him if he came 
under shelter; and Mr. Simpson said that was the case. 

The only shelter the boy had from the storm that night 
was a part of an old blanket about one yard square. 
Later in the winter, when the thermometer was ranging 
between 45 ° and 50° below zero, I found this boy living 
alone in the woods, without other shelter than the small 
square of blanket. He slept at night by a little open fire, 
turning over and over in order to prevent any part of 
his body from freezing. 

A little later in the winter, Powder, the shamcn, told Iron 
that the boy was a witch, and that Mrs. Iron would never 
regain her health until the witch was destroyed. The news 
came to me one day that Iron and Powder and the boy 
had gone hunting, and four days later Iron and Powder 
returned without the boy. A hole had been cut through 
the thick covering of ice on a neighboring lake, a stone 

313 



THE WHITE WORLD 

tied to the boy's neck, and the boy-witch or evil spirit 
had gone to the long, long home, whence slave boys and 
witches never return. These were fair examples of the 
better class of Indians, or Indians belonging to the regu- 
lar tribes that surrounded us, and from this description 
may be had a fair conception of what the renegades at 
Hell Gate were like. 

Winter passed, the first of April came, and I decided 
to travel once more to Hell Gate, where my stores were 
cached, and superintend the building of my boat, as the 
river ice would go out about a month later. There were 
yet two sled loads of stuff to go, and the only available 
help was Powder and his wife and dogs. So with this 
interesting Christian couple, who knew nothing worse 
than murder, I was to make my final trip of one hundred 
and twenty-five miles over the ice with dog sleds to my 
cache below Hell Gate, where I expected to find the two 
white men in camp, waiting to help me in building the boat. 

Skipping entirely every incident of the trip, I was horri- 
fied, on turning a bend in the river about two miles above 
my cache, to find camps of the renegade Hell Gate Indians. 
Powder became very much excited, and as the Indians 
came running down from their camps he stopped his sled 
and indulged in a " powwow " of considerable length. I 
could not understand a single word, but I knew by their 
manner and gestures that much of the conversation was 
concerning myself. All in all, the situation was not pleas- 
ing, for I knew what these Indians were. I had been 
repeatedly warned by whites and Indians never to be 
caught alone among them, and I thought a meaner lot of 
murderous faces I bad never seen. I was full of misgiv- 
ings, and from there almost to the cache I found a 
continuous string of camps, all occupied by this band of 
renegades. On reaching the cache I found it yet intact, 
but the two white men had disappeared with all their 
belongings, and there was every indication that they had 
abandoned the camp weeks previous. 

My dilemma was apparent at a stance. I was in a trap, 
and there was no help for it. When I left the little fur- 
trading place to go down the river, my onlv helper and 
friend, Mr. Simpson, went away, going up the river, and 

314 



ARCTIC FRIENDS AND ENEMIES 

we were now separated by at least two hundred and fifty 
miles of country difficult to travel. 

My situation seemed perilous. Powder was actually 
frightened for his own life, for he knew the Hell Gate 
Indians and feared them, and he begged me to return with 
him that night. The situation had confronted me so sud- 
denly that I scarcely knew what I could do, or what action 
to take, but I replied to him that my property was in that 
cache and that I should not desert it. That night a number 
of Indians surrounded us and plied me with many ques- 
tions, only a part of which I was able to interpret. 

My cache stood in the centre of a clearing on the river 
bank of about one hundred yards in extent. Near the 
cache were two pine trees. The snow had disappeared in 
the opening, leaving the ground bare, and after getting 
rid of the last of my callers, I prepared to sleep under- 
neath these trees in the open, and did not erect any tent 
or shelter of any kind, or put up anything that would form 
a screen, behind which the devils of Hell Gate could ap- 
proach me. I did not sleep much that night, though I 
was very tired, having run about fifty miles the day before, 
and I was up early the following morning. Breakfast was 
soon finished, and in spite of all my protestations, Powder 
and Mrs. Powder took their departure for the country of 
the Kaskas. Murderer though I was aware that he was, 
I hiew him, after all. He was a companion in a way; he 
did not belong to the renegade band, and I greatly re- 
gretted to see him go. As I stood alone on the river bank 
that frosty April morning and watched him, with his wife 
and dogs, disappear around the bend of the river more 
than a mile away, a feeling of loneliness came over me 
unlike anything I had ever before experienced, and I could 
almost have forgiven him the murder of the boy, had he 
only remained with me. 

I was alone at Hell Gate, in the heart of the greatest 
wilderness on the American continent; all my supplies and 
equipage were awaiting some form of transportation to 
regions further north; I was surrounded by the entire 
band of red devils that constituted this renegade band, 
about seventy-five people. 

It was really hard for me to think. But the first thought 

3i5 



THE WHITE WORLD 

was that I was glad that my friends knew nothing of my 
true situation, for they could not have reached me short 
of one year, if at all. My knowledge of these Indians, 
their customs and their superstitious beliefs, was here of 
great help to me, and was undoubtedly the one thing that 
saved my life. 

I knew they would not break my cache themselves, for in 
their belief, were they to do so, the evil spirit would get 
them. It was a fortunate circumstance that I chanced to 
have some food in my sled, and I decided to make this last 
as long as possible. During the day I had many curious 
visitors, all anxious to see my guns, knives, and camp 
outfit, and to learn what I had stored in the cache. 

The day was one of nervous expectation, and I thought 
it would never end. I learned that a young man was ac- 
tually dying with consumption in camp about half a mile 
up the river. This to me was a special source of anxiety, 
for the reason that should he die while I was there, his 
people would claim that his death was due to my presence 
and that my life must be taken in turn. But one thing 
could have averted this, and that would have been by the 
payment of a certain amount of blankets, guns, tea, to- 
bacco, and such like merchandise to the friends of the 
deceased as a recompense for the young man's life, and 
this in my case would have meant no less than the end of 
my expedition, and my escaping, if possible, to civilization. 

Long days and longer, restless, sleepless nights passed, 
one after another, and every day I was harassed by those 
red devils in every sort of way. They wanted my guns 
and ammunition, they even coveted my camera and the 
very blankets I slept in, and they threatened violence to 
me if I did not open the cache and show them what I 
had and divide with them. Every night I slept in the 
same place in the open — when I slept at all — and I kept 
Zilla. the only dog and only companion I had, chained at 
the back of my bed, with three loaded rifles and extra 
ammunition in front of me. 

Ten days had passed, during which time I had been 
on guard from early morning till late at night, using every 
precaution, every particle of diplomacy that I could com- 
mand in order to prevent serious friction. I had not 

316 



ARCTIC FRIENDS AND ENEMIES 

during all this time given any of them a bite of food or 
submitted to a single one of their demands in any way, 
for I knew perfectly well that should I show any indica- 
tion of weakening, they would take advantage of it. Should 




IN THE FROZEN NORTH 

I give them an ounce they would want a pound, and once 
they secured a part, they would have all; and should they 
succeed in getting possession of my property they would 
then murder me as a precaution against any possible 
trouble. My only safety was in maintaining a fearless and 
independent attitude, and in avoiding everything that 
would give any chance for trouble. 

One morning, while I was making coffee for my break- 
fast, an Indian, a powerful looking fellow, and the one 
who had been the most persistent and troublesome, came 
up and asked me for the balance of the package of coffee, 
all the coffee I possessed. On my refusal, he remarked: 
" Mica delate cultus," meaning that I was everything that 
was low and bad. For the first time my temper got the 
best of my judgment and I made for him with a club. He 
was too quick for me, however, and beat a rapid retreat. 
The following night I remained awake, for the redskins 
had kept to themselves all day, and I felt sure, after what 
had happened that morning, that they were only waiting 

3i7 



THE WHITE WORLD 

for night to come that they might make a combined attack. 
The night was uneventful, however, other than being a 
sleepless one, and the following morning, while I was mak- 
ing my breakfast, I saw this fellow with his family and 
dogs moving down river. Pretty soon there passed an- 
other, and then another, and all day long they kept mov- 
ing by. What a relief, and how proud I was, for I knew 
I had defeated their purpose. In twenty-four hours the 
only Indians remaining in my neighborhood were the one 
family with the consumptive son. I then, of my own ac- 
cord, carried them rice and dried fruit, and such other 
things as I could spare. 

The story of my experiences at Hell Gate would fill a 
volume and I cannot begin to relate them in this article, 
but there is one incident that occurred during the time 
I was surrounded by the Indians that I cannot omit. As 
I have already mentioned, the snow had disappeared in 
the clearing, but in the timber encircling the clearing in 
the rear, the snow was yet of considerable depth and 
crusted on the top. I was awakened one night by the 
growling of Zilla, and the character of his growl told me 
at once that something was wrong. I sat up in my blankets 
and put my hand on his head to calm him. At the same 
time I heard footsteps breaking through the crust on the 
snow in the edge of the woods back of the clearing, only 
about fifty yards away. Tramp, tramp, tramp! There they 
were at last, the suspense would soon be ended, and I 
drew up one of my rifles and cocked it carefully, that I 
might not make any noise. I was not excited, I was not 
even nervous, for I had thought of and expected this thing 
too long to feel anv new fear of trouble now. Rather the 
reverse, I was glad; I felt the long strain I had been under 
was to be ended, and anything, even death, was preferable 
to such suspense. The one thing I thought of was killing 
Indians, and I sat revolving over and over in my mind 
the possibilities of satisfying this desire. I could have 
taken a position behind the trees, but I feared to move 
lest I might be seen. 

Tramp, tramp, tramp! The footsteps continued to en- 
circle my position, keeping in the edge of the timber, a 
regular, even, cautious step, but always breaking through 

318 



ARCTIC FRIENDS AND ENEMIES 

the crust on top of the snow. Zilla listened attentively, 
but never growled after I once patted him on the head. 
He knew I wanted him to be calm. Evidently the fellow 
was trying to get me between himself and the sky line, 
for the night was clear, but fortunately there was no moon. 

On around the edge of the timber continued the foot- 
steps. I was chilled through and through, and I was grow- 
ing impatient. The footsteps neared the edge of the tim- 
ber on the river bank and then all was silent. I waited 
for some time, but could not hear a sound. I could not 
stand it any longer; the fellow might be crawling toward 
me on the bare ground in the clearing. I proposed to let 
him know I was awake and bring him to his feet. I hal- 
looed, there was no response of any kind, no rustle of foot- 
steps or shifting of position. There was no rush of the 
enemy from any point. I knew not what to make of it. 
I waited for some time and still not a sound. I was puz- 
zled; I tried to persuade myself that I had been dreaming, 
and I finally lay down in my blankets, almost frozen. 

It was just getting warm and comfortable, when Zilla 
growled once more and I sat up in my blankets again. 
Sure enough, there was the footstep again, and this time 
it was coming directly toward me, the man evidently keep- 
ing the largest tree between himself and me. One advan- 
tage I had, my position was such that I knew on which 
side of the tree he must appear; my rifle was directed 
to a point where I thought it would do the most good, and 
my finger was on the trigger. The footsteps were now 
very near; they were just behind the tree. The moment 
of action had come; I was full of expectation and actually 
dead to every sense of fear. There was no escape, no 
alternative, but to meet conditions as they arose. An im- 
mense white Indian dog stepped from behind the tree. 
For a moment I was almost paralyzed, so great was the 
surprise, but gradually the true situation came to me. 
There was a piece of moose meat hanging in the tree above 
my head, and this strange dog had smelled it and had 
been trying to find some place of approach whereby he 
might get near enough to secure it. And it was his tread 
and not that of a man that I had heard. But the noise 
created by its breaking through the crust on the snow 

3i9 



THE WHITE WORLD 

was exactly the same that would have been caused by 
the tread of a man. 

After the Indians left me, I took one of my rifles and 
Zilla, and went down the river prospecting for a place 
suitable for building a boat. I found a very desirable 
place on the river bank, at the edge of a large forest, 
about five miles farther down stream. I could not live 
so far from my work, so I decided to move my supplies 
down to this place. I hooked Zilla to the sled, and at the 
end of three days I had moved everything, set up my 
tent and put my new camp in order. I had never built 
a boat, or helped to build one, in my life. I had no lumber 
with which to make it, and no way of cutting lumber, for 
I had no one to help me run a saw. I had seen the natives 
use large skin boats, but I had no skins and nothing large 
enough could be made from birch bark, even though I 
could manipulate the bark. Canvas must be the only 
solution of the problem, and I at once went through my 
outfit to see what I could find. I discovered two pieces, 
somewhat worn, that I thought would be large enough if 
sewed together. 

I decided to make a boat twenty-four feet long, five and 
one-half feet beam and twenty-one inches deep amidships. 
I set to work cutting tall, slender young pines, which I 
hewed and planed and bent to shape, a work that required 
a good many days and taxed my skill to its greatest effort. 
After many days of toil, from early morning till late at 
night, the perspiration often streaming from me as I have 
seen it do from a man in the harvest field, the frame was 
made complete, and I was so pleased with it that I photo- 
graphed it. 

I then went into the woods and found two tall, straight 
pines — one of them measuring fifty-five and the other fifty- 
seven inches in circumference. I cut them down and took 
the bark from each in a single piece to the height of twenty- 
five feet. I dragged these over and covered the frame of 
the boat with them completely, leaving the smooth inner 
bark out. I then stretched the canvas over this perfectly 
tight and made it fast, after which I went into the woods 
and gathered a large quantity of spruce gum from the 
trees. I melted bacon into grease, and, mixing the gum 

320 



ARCTIC FRIENDS AND ENEMIES 

and the grease, I heated them over the fire until they ran 
together, forming a pitch with which I painted the canvas, 
using a stick with a rag wound around one end for a brush. 
I dressed out my oars from green spruce, and the boat 
was finished. 

Getting under the boat I knocked out the props with 
an ax, and then I began an effort to move it down over 
the river bank. It evidently weighed about eight hundred 
pounds, and my first two. or three attempts to move it 
failed. But improving my position, I at last felt it go 
forward about an inch, and then again, and little by little 
I worked it forward, endwise, down the bank and upon a 
sand beach at the edge of the stream. Once on the smooth 
level sand it came down all around me, of course, and I 
began to realize that it might be difficult to get from under 
it. I could raise one side, but when I attempted to get 
out, my purchase was taken from me, and down came the 
boat across me, and I could get no farther. I only gained 
my freedom by scratching a hole in the sand underneath 
the gunwale, sufficiently ' large to admit of my crawling 
out, just as a dog might have done. 

Once on the outside, I rolled the boat over in such a 
manner that it struck the water right side up, a rather 
undignified launching for such a stately craft. But it sat 
on the water nicely and was now ready for its valuable 
cargo. 

In spite of hard work, my feeling of loneliness while 
building my boat was beyond the conception of any one 
who has never been cut off from the world. Zilla was 
some company, and after each day's work was done, or 
dusk would put a stop to it, he and I would go for a run 
on the beach, and he enjoyed this quite as much as myself. 
But most of the time he, too, seemed very lonely. Much 
of the time I could eat but little of the food I prepared, and 
when the heavy ice broke on the great river and began to 
move, its constant grinding and pounding and booming 
created such an awful noise for five days that I could not 
sleep. 

As the last of the ice was going, I had everything ready 
and followed. I prepared a life raft with some some rubber 
bags, so that in case my boat struck a snag and sank, I 

321 



THE WHITE WORLD 

might have some chance of saving my life. I manned it 
among floating ice and logs and through rapids, and was 
swept by strong currents past ugly snags; strong side 
winds sometimes drove me on shore; but in spite of all my 
discouragements, two days after leaving Hell Gate, Zilla 
and I landed at Fort Liard, a little Hudson Bay trading 
place, one hundred and fifty miles below, without acci- 
dent or the loss of an ounce of my outfit. 

Zilla, the most faithful animal I ever knew — though 
only an Indian dog — died the following winter, on Christ- 
mas eve, just to the west of the mouth of the Mackenzie, 
on the Arctic coast. He was sick, his feet had been frozen 
and were very much swollen, his coat of hair was not heavy 
enough for those regions, and he had worked and suffered 
until his heart was broken. I buried him Christmas morn- 
ing in a snowy grave, and as I turned away the tears came 
to my eyes. I felt that I was leaving behind one of the 
dearest and most faithful of friends, and I shall never for- 
get my only companion at Hell Gate. 




322 



THE ICE TRAIL ON THE YUKON 



JOHN BIRD BURNHAM. 

John Bird Burnham was born in New Castle, 
Delaware, 1869. In 1897 went to Klondike, 
shooting White Horse rapids in twelve-foot 
canvas canoe. Also made adventurous trips 
over the ice. Has hunted and killed all varie- 
ties of North American game. 



ON THE ICE TRAIL 



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THE ICE TRAIL ON THE YUKON 

By JOHN B. BURNHAM 




HE exodus of four hundred miners from Daw- 
son City to the coast over the ice in the 
winter of 1897-98 is one of the most pic- 
turesque features in the whole graphic his- 
tory of the Klondike. A midwinter journey 
of six hundred miles in a country where 
minus temperatures of sixty and seventy degrees are 
recorded is hard enough at best, but when supplies have 
to be carried for this distance the difficulties are vastly 
increased. Many of the men carried their food on sleds, 
which they drew themselves, and some even packed it on 
their backs, and at night slept without stoves or tents on 

32s 



THE WHITE WORLD 

the snowy shores of the Yukon, or on the ice of the river 
itself. The stamina and will power of these men are 
almost beyond belief. 

John Peche, the Canadian government messenger, who 
late in December was the first man in from the outside 
world after the river closed, remarking on the fact, said: 
'' You Americans are hard men to kill. Coming down 
the river I met over three hundred men on their way out, 
and mO'St of them were from the States and knew nothing 
of the cold that is cold, or how to take care of themselves 
right. Yet they acted as if they were on a picnic, and as 
if the devil were really dead. They didn't seem to mind 
little inconveniences like frozen feet and cheeks, and hands 
with the nails coming off and blistered with the frost. 
They're reckless devils, and a more cheeky set I never met. 
With the pants burnt off their legs and the faces on them 
like brown parchment from the fire and frost, they had the 
gall to give me advice about the country, to tell me how 
many pairs of moccasins I'd need for the trip, and the like, 
when I was born on a snow drift and got my growth under 
the midnight sun. You Americans would storm Hades 
if you thought the heat had melted out any gold down 
there; and you'd put up so good a bluff and are so nervy, 
I'll be bound you'd get some of the stuff if there was any 
there." 

Just above " Five Fingers," on our trip to the coast in 
January, 1898, I saw some ravens tearing at an object 
which on closer inspection proved to be the ribs and upper 
portion of a man's body. There were many gruesome asso- 
ciations on that journey in the dead of the Sub-Arctic 
winter. Tottering out of the blue-grey haze of snow and 
frost-laden spruces, came from time to> time starving men, 
almost as emaciated as the plague victims in India, with the 
light of an insane fear in their eyes, whom bitter experience 
had taught that it was better to risk death by stealing food 
rather than to risk refusal by begging for it. 

At Fort Selkirk, in December, two half-crazed men came 
into our cabin and without a word seized upon a loaf of 
bread and some prunes, which was all the prepared food in 
sight, and began eating ravenously, like beasts that ex- 
pected to be driven away. When they had finished they 

326 



THE ICE TRAIL ON THE YUKON 



left without asking for more or saying a word of thanks 
for what they had taken. The men had black spots on 
their cheeks, where the flesh was frozen into the bone and 
would never grow again. 




THE LOVE OF ADVENTURE" 

Other men froze their feet; it was always both feet. Of 
the eight men in this condition whom I saw on the journey 
out, there was no exception. Willie Birne, who was only 
sixteen and small for his age, walked for five days over 
the ice with his feet frozen at right angles with his legs, 
and though he suffered, he did not know the worst until 
a hole was worn in his moccasin and one of his great toes 
broke off. He had never been in a warm place during this 
time. 

At the very end of the journey a poor fellow with frozen 
feet lay beside the trail waiting for a dog team to carry 
him to the lower levels of Chilcoot. A packer who hap- 
pened along asked him the circumstances of the accident, 
remarking that he could not understand why the sufferer 



327 



THE WHITE WORLD 

had not known of his danger and taken precautions to 
save his feet before it was too late. At that very moment 
the questioner's own feet were frozen beyond hope of 
recovery. 

I asked this man how it happened that he did not know 
his own condition. He said that shortly after leaving his 
tent that morning his feet had been very painful. He was 
wearing lumberman's socks and rubbers. He had stamped 
his feet, and presently the pain grew less and he imagined 
the circulation had been restored, when as a matter of 
fact the relief came from the total loss of sensation incident 
to freezing. 

The pioneers of the ice trail fared the worst. Some left 
Dawson at the middle of October, weeks before the river 
closed. The mush ice which ran in endless stream past 
the log city gorged temporarily, and, supposing it had 
stopped for the winter, these men lashed their loads on 
their sleds and started. The Yukon almost immediately 
opened again, and they were caught in a trap. In the dark 
canon-like valley marked on the maps as the Upper Ram- 
parts, sledges were lost or broken and tents and blankets 
were thrown away. With packs strapped on their backs, 
the refugees struggled on, following the narrow rim of 
shore ice when not compelled to scale the almost vertical 
barriers of basalt rock. 

Supplies gave out, and after five weeks of travel the first 
of the parties had only gotten as far as Fort Selkirk, four 
hundred miles from food and safety. They were tantalized 
by the sight of rafts laden with beef and mutton for the 
Dawson market, aground and abandoned on bars in mid- 
channel, a feast for the ravens, but separated from them 
by a gulf as impassable as that upon which Dives gazed; 
and but for the chance flotsam picked up at the river's 
edge from wrecked boats, and Indians at the Nordenskiold, 
these men of the vanguard would certainly have starved. 
As it was, they were reduced to the last extremity: and, 
insufficiently protected from the weather, they suffered the 
Eskimo's hell of slow death by freezing. 

The old-timers in Dawson said the' trip to the coast was 
an impossible task for hand-sledgers, and " a gamble " for 
the men with dog teams. They cited the case of George 

328 



THE ICE TRAIL ON THE YUKON 

Williams, the first man attempting the trip, who in i< 
went out on a desperate mission to secure aid for the 
miners in the forty-mile stampede, and perished of hunger 
and cold. The old-timers argued that no man could drag 
on his sled food sufficient to last for the six-hundred-mile 
struggle over the jam of broken ice that gorged the river. 

The pioneers left a tortuous trail which above the Pelly 
cro'ssed and recrossed the river, on an average of once in 
every mile. They could not take the shortest course from 
point to point, because of open water and other obstacles 
which later did not exist. The men who came after them 
followed in their footsteps, partly because they could not be 
sure that the detours were not still necessary, and partly 
because it is easier to follow than to originate. The open 
places had alternated from side to side of the river. The 
trail wound like a snake's track, and the weary pilgrims 
who followed it at times traveled two miles east or west 
for every mile they gained in the direction of their homes. 
There was little or no attempt afterward to better the trail. 
On catching up one evening with a party which had trav- 
eled ahead of us all day, I asked one of the men why he 
had not gone back a few rods on the trail after a particu- 
larly aggravating detour and made a cut-off which would 
have saved a mile of unnecessary walking. 

" For the same reason, partner," said the man, with a 
smile that showed how sure he felt of his ground, " that 
you neglected to do it. Why didn't you think of all the 
sore-footed chaps that are following after you on the trail? " 

The chief rush of travel occurred late in November and 
the early part of December. All classes were represented, 
from the Jew peddler to the millionaire mine-owner. 
Some, " gee-pole " in hand, dragged heavily loaded sleds, 
while others trotted along behind well-broken dog teams 
and had their hired men do the work of making and break- 
ing camp. Others traveled by " Siwash Express," which 
carried passengers at the rate of a dollar a mile; only the 
passenger was not actually carried, but walked or trotted 
beside the sled, fully content that he had secured the trans- 
portation of food for himself for thirty days, and his blank- 
ets, at any figure short of a king's ransom. 

329 



THE WHITE WORLD 

Large parties were the rule at this time; the night was 
divided into watches, and in each mess one kept awake all 
the time to tend the little sheet-iron stove that warmed the 
tent. Only those who traveled without stoves or tents 





THE LONG LINE OF MEN" 



knew to the full the biting severity of the cold of the long 
Arctic night. These men regarded their better-equipped 
companions in much the same spirit that the tramp sitting 
beside the railroad looks at the -traveler in the Pullman. 
Yet some of them, before the journey was over, had be- 
come so enamored of the very hardships that they would 
not have changed for a berth with a dog team. 

When the weather was not exceptionally severe, these 
men passed the night behind brush wind-breaks, with no 
fire, wrapped in icy board-like blankets, and perhaps buried 
in the snow for greater warmth. When, however, their 
evening camp-fires sent up a volume of pure white steam 
into the starry air, instead of the usual column of blue 
smoke, they knew that if they rolled in their blankets that 



330 



THE ICE TRAIL ON THE YUKON 

night without fire, it might be for a perpetual sleep; and 
to avoid death by the cold some men built double camp- 
fires, one on either side, and crouched between them during 
the hours of darkness. It is wonderful how much cold a 
man may accustom himself to endure. I have a vivid 
recollection of a night of grim emergency passed lying out 
in the snow, with only one thickness of blankets over and 
one below, when the thermometer hung on a nearby tree 
registered forty degrees below zero. 

At the height of travel, the long line of men journeying 
over the ice trail was a gaily caparisoned procession, and 
not at all suggestive of the desperate race with famine and 
cold. The men who knew to a certainty that their pro- 
visions would not last to the coast, and who had no idea 
what they would do when the food gave out, wore carnival 
colored " parkies " of yellow and white, or white and blue, 
or tawny fox skins and the darker and richer furs. Even 
the projecting hoods and the grim face masks when seen 
at a little distance carried out the masquerade deception 
and seemed fitting accompaniments to the domino-shaped 
gowns, but a closer inspection of the faces, deep set behind 
their fringe of ice formed by the congealed breath, showed 
hard lines and little suggestion of mirth. 

And yet the men were far from conquered and despond- 
ent. Once in a while, it is true, some poor frozen fellow 
came along, half-crazed with fear, presenting a pitiful and 
depressing spectacle; but with the majority the hardships 
and dangers brought uppermost the masterful spirit char- 
acteristic of the true pioneer. 

The Klondikers who passed the Pelly in 1897 were 
nearly all from the States. Half of the men who regis- 
tered at Fort Selkirk left homes on the Pacific coast. 
Many were sons of California " Forty-niners." These men 
will subdue Alaska and their sons will push on further to 
Siberia or to the mountains of the moon. 

Of the victims of the ice trail little is known. Camps 
have been found with silent blanketed forms lying just as 
they had taken their positions months before, and the 
ravens that infested the river all winter were surfeited at 
other points than Dalton's abattoirs. 

The Yukon runs so swiftly that it would remain open all 

33i 



THE WHITE WORLD 

winter were it not for the fact of the floating ice cakes 
gorging at Bering Sea and jamming and backing up 
from the mouth to the head waters. 

In 1897, the river stopped at Dawson, November 7, at 
Fort Selkirk, November 17, and at the Little Salmon, 
November 28. The jam backed up stream at the rate of 
about twenty miles a day, and to form it, cakes of ice 
eighteen inches thick were piled on top of each other, ris- 
ing in places in hummocks ten or a dozen feet in height, 
like the paleocrystic ice of the polar sea. Not only was 
the surface terribly rough as a whole, but the detail of the 
ice masses also presented a collection of points and ex- 
crescences that bruised and blistered men's feet and made 
extra wrappings a necessity. 

The snow was marvelously light and fine and dry, and 
back in the woods it never crusted, but rested as softly as 
sifted wood ashes. Still, out on the river it was packed 
by the wind till it would support the weight of a fox or a 
dog, but not that of a man or a sled. In midwinter, when 
the rush of travel had passed, breaking trail was terribly 
fatiguing work. There are two poles of greatest cold, one 
in Siberia and the other in the northern part of the North 
American Continent, and on the Yukon, as early as No- 
vember, the temperature reached a lower point than any 
experienced by Nansen in his three years on the polar ice. 

All is changed in the Yukon, and there is comparative 
comfort along the ice trail at present. The stern necessi- 
ties and perils are gone, but the pioneer spirit still marches 
on, and the scene has only been transformed to the Koyu- 
kuk and the Kuskokwim and a host of unmapped streams 
lacing the Arctic waste. 

Here the fruit farmer from Puget Sound and the Arizona 
miner, the Cambridge college man and the Texas ranger, 
shoulder to shoulder, or back to back, with Viking spirit, 
are waging the same lasty struggle. It is the love of ad- 
venture, old as humanity, that influences these men, and 
this, after all, rather than the greed for riches, which has 
been given the prominence, is the significant feature of the 
Klondike. 



332 



ESKIMO MUSIC 



DR. ROBERT STEIN. 

Robert Stein was born in Reugersdorf Sile- 
sia, German}, Jan., 1857. Investigated ancient 
Eskimo dwellings and graves at Wilcox Head, 
West Greenland, in 1897, in connection with 
Lieutenant Peary's North Greenland Expedi- 
tion. Leader of Stein's Expedition in Elles- 
mereland, 1899-1901. 




DR. ROBERT STEIN 



ESKIMO MUSIC 

By DR. ROBERT STEIN 




NE of the items of knowledge which our 
teachers, some thirty years ago, were care- 
ful to impress on our plastic youthful 
minds was, that mankind was divided into 
three classes — civilized, barbarous and sav- 
age. The division seemed entirely satis- 
factory, and we never doubted our ability to assign any 
human being to one of these three classes the moment 
we laid eyes on him. The savage was supposed to -care 
for nothing but eating and sleeping, the civilized man 
cared for something besides eating and sleeping, and the 
barbarian was midway between these. Too bad that so 
simple an arrangement should ever need revision! Since 
then, however, facts have become known in regard to 
savages, barbarians, and civilized men, too, which tend 
to obliterate the lines of division that seemed so clear 
cut. 

To-day these terms continue to be used from mere force 
of habit, just as naturalists continue to talk about species 
and genera, when they know very well that there is not and 
cannot be any sharp dividing line between any two species. 
We now know that there is hardly a feature in civilized life 
that is not present, at least in a rudimentary form, among 
the so-called savages, while, on the other hand, we have 
come to the conclusion that there are hosts of human 
beings able to read and write and to count to a million, 
having the ballot, using the telephone and holding their 
possessions between thumb and forefinger in a bankbook, 
who nevertheless are not civilized at all, but merely domes- 
ticated, and who, if an epidemic were to carry off all the 
real active brains of civilization, would instantly relapse into 
the Stone Age, if they did not die of starvation. 

337 



THE WHITE WORLD 

That there could not be any human beings who think of 
nothing but eating and sleeping, might have been evident 
from the first, for the higher animals have got beyond that 
stage. All that was needed was to listen to the song of a 
canary bird. Were there any representatives of the Pithe- 
canthropus of Java still in existence, we should doubtless 
find them using some kind of decoration, having some 
traditions in set form (the beginning of literature) and some 
regularly recurring intonations or rhythms repeated for the 
sake of pleasing the ear (the beginning of music). In point 
of fact the lowest human beings now in existence represent 
an immense advance over the earliest that might claim 
the name human. Nine times, most likely, has nature 
wiped the lower races off the earth to make room for some 
improved breed, the inferior ones being either exterminated 
or absorbed as the superior ones spread by virtue of their 
slightly better brains. And thus it will probably go on 
indefinitely, and it may be that we have no business to try 
to stop it. 

A glance at the coat of the Smith Sound Eskimo suffices 
to show that we are dealing with a race which does care 
for something besides eating and sleeping. Two-thirds of 
the seams on this coat are solely for the sake of ornamenta- 
tion: the sagloreneng on the man's back, the igia down his 
throat, the nunga across his head, the tunuka on the 
woman's back, the manuka under her chin, the crsi below 
the breasts, the tungawing around the lower border — all 
decidedly handsome patterns, even to the civilized eye. 
Their tools, houses and tents all bear the same imprint of 
long development. 

I am not aware that any record has yet been made of 
their music, except their choral song, the commonest of all, 
which inevitably attracts the notice of any one who stays 
with them more than a day or two. The Eskimos of Danish 
Greenland, indeed, are known to possess a keen musical 
ear and admirable voices, but the songs they now. sing 
are said to be all of Danish origin. The first mention of a 
song among the tribe to the north of Cape York occurs 
in the report of Sir John Ross, who discovered them in 
1818: 

" We then tried to discover if they had among them any 

338 



ESKIMO MUSIC 

amusements, such as music or dancing, and, after some 
difficulty, succeeded in persuading" two of the strangers, 
who, we were made to understand, were nephews of Ervik, 
to give us a specimen of their dancing. One of them 
accordingly began immediately to distort his face, and turn 
up his eyes so exactly resembling the appearance of a 
person in a fit of epilepsy, that we were convinced this 
accident had happened, and I was about to call for assist- 
ance from the surgeon. I was, however, soon undeceived, 
as he immediately proceeded to execute, in succession, a 
variety of extraordinary gestures and attitudes, accom- 
panied by the most hideous distortions of countenance. 
Like the similar amusements of very different climates, 
these contained the indecent allusions which are well known 
to form an essential feature in the dances of many nations, 
in other respects far advanced in civilization. The body 
was generally in a stooping posture and the hands resting 
on the knees. After a few minutes the performer began 
to sing ' Amnah ajah,' and in a very short time the second 
performer, who had been looking at the other in silence, 
began, as if inspired, to distort his face, and imitate the 
indelicate attitudes of the first, and soon after to sing as 
chorus, " Hejaw, hejaw." After this had continued with 
increasing energy for ten minutes, the tune was suddenly 
changed to a shrill note, in which the words " Weehee, we- 
hee," were uttered with great rapidity. They then ap- 
proached each other, by slipping their feet forward, grin- 
ning, and in great agitation, until their noses touched, when 
a savage laugh ended this extraordinary performance." 

Kane, who visited the tribe in 1853-55, describes a similar 
song: 

" They sang ' Amna Ayah ' for us, their rude monoton- 
ous song, till our ears cracked with the discord; and im- 
provised a special eulogistic chant, which they repeated over 



Am - na - yah, Am - na - yah, Am - na - yah, Am - na - yah. 

and over again with laughable gravity of utterance, sub- 
siding always into the refrain of " Nalegak! nalegak! na- 
legak-soak!" ("'Captain! captain! great captain!") 

339 



THE WHITE WORLD 



Wishing to hear this song from aboriginal lips, I sang it 
as best I could from memory to four young men, Sipsu, 
Uzaka, Piwatu and Aweta, who visited our station, Fort 
Magnesia, on January 26, 1900. Sipsu, the liveliest among 
them, on being asked to repeat it, at once looked around 
for a small board and a stick. These secured, he arranged 
the party in two pairs, himself and Aweta in front, Piwatu 
and Uzaka behind them. Taking the board in his left 
hand he struck it from below with the stick (held in the 
right hand) thus: 



J f J* 



etc. 



After the first few taps he began to sway from side to side, 
with body bent forward and eyes closed, and to sing ap- 
proximately as follows: 



I 



H^el- 



^m 






:l 1— 



- 1 t zz 



s^ 



-r-ez 



Ha-ya ya ya ya ya ya ya ya ha-ya ya ya ya ya ya ya ya 



■= 3=3=2=1 J=J= z3=?=3=3~ 3z\-3=3= Z=~—± ^=3-3^^~gz z\ 
ha-ya ya ya ya ha-ya ya ya ya ha-ya ya ya ya ha-ya ya ya ya 



3=9=iz=3=S- ^J=3=J-- 



1 



^5=Kr 



==z^ 



Jzt S=S= ff; 



z£±g=3=3i 



ha-ya ya ya ya ha-ya ya ya ya ha-ya ya ya ya ha-ya ya ya ya 



T-f-T- 



3*EZ=3= 



gz*\ 



ff=ft 



■£=£-- 



ha-ya ya ya ya ha-ya ya ya ya ha-ya ya ya ya ya ya ya ya 



-tz=^=P-*=te=3=3=?=?zz \3=i=3=z?z*=3= 
ha-ya ya ya ya ya ya ya ya ha-ya ya ya ya ha-ya ya ya ya 



=£=<•=£.! 



j*=e=3z 



-e.—r~- 



n=m=e=e=£z 



~^-e=pz 



ha-ya ya ya ya ha ya ya ya ya ha-ya ya ya ya ha-ya ya ya ya 



340 



ESKIMO MUSIC 



±3= 



z=A 



zff=P= 






:ff=ff= 



:f=p=: 

-f r — 



«a> 



ha - ya ya ya ya ya ya ya ya ha - ya ya ya ya 



=S=K=l 1 — q= 



qsrzsiq: 



:S=i=ts=J=i=S=S= 



:S=S=Jr 



tpt5t 



ya ya ya ya ha-ya ya ya ya ha-ya ya ya ya ha-ya ya ya ya 




ha - ya ya ya ya ha-ya ya ya ya ya ya ya 



The others accompanied in unison, but with lower voices. 
At the end, Sipsu's partner, Aweta, leaned over to Sipsu, 
and, holding a short stick vertically between the fingers of 
his two hands, close to Sipsu's head, described a circle with 
the upper end of the stick, while both shouted " We! we! " 
in a pitch several notes higher than the last of the song, 
and ending in a burst of laughter. Sipsu and Aweta then 
changed places, the latter took the board and became leader. 
Next Piwatu and Uzaka took their turns, and the perform- 
ance might have continued indefinitely if something (I 
think it was the call to dinner) had not stopped it. 

What we saw and heard was only a partial exhibit. In 
the real performance no board is used, but a drum, called 
kedlaun, about a foot long and five or six inches wide. 
Over a rim (katugzvia) of walrus rib cut thin, boiled and 
bent into an ellipse, is stretched a drumskin (ma) made of 
the membrane (mapsa) surrounding the spleen of the wal- 
rus, or in default of this, of seal intestine sewed together. 
The handle (pablua) is made of bone or ivory. Along the 
outer edge of the rim is a groove (kitarota) in which rests 
a thin sealskin line (isidiuta) holding the drumskin tight. 
Above this groove, all along the circumference, a number 
of hemispherical pits (imihsauserwia) are scooped out, 
which, the natives suppose, either strengthen or clarify the 
sound. The drumstick (kattta) is made of walrus rib. This 
is the only musical instrument in use in that tribe so far as 
I know. It is quite effective as an accompaniment to the 
song. 

When sung in chorus by six or eight voices this song 
is decidedly impressive. The sight of the leader swaying 



34i 



THE WHITE WORLD 

to and fro, flinging his long black hair sideways at each 
movement, his eyes closed and his face tense with excite- 
ment, of course greatly adds to the effect. The way the 
singers manage to keep exact time without a division of 
the melody into measures of equal length is astonishing. 
Of course, a similar phenomenon may be observed in the 
Gregorian chant .of the Catholic churches. Sipsu explained 
to us that in the regular performance each one has to take 
the leading part a definite number of times. These num- 
bers are the same for the two men in each pair, but differ 
with the different pairs. So far as I could judge, all sing 
the same air at one performance, though when they sing 
alone there are almost as many variations of it as there 
are individuals, each one having his own, which seems to 
be recognized as his property. When a great number of 
them get together the performance continues for hours, 
until the exigencies of business put an end to pleasure. In 
the movements of the leaders I could never detect any- 
thing of the nature spoken of by Ross. This song is the 
natives' great refuge from ennui. When stormbound in a 
snow hut, with nothing to do, or when whittling away at a 
whip or a bit of ivory, they invariably begin crooning 
" Haya ya ya ya " to themselves in a low tone, keeping it 
up for hours. 

Evidently this song is quite different from that recorded 
by Kane, yet the correctness of the latter is not to be 
doubted, in view of the close agreement of the words with 
those recorded by Ross. I repeated Kane's version to 
many natives, but none recognized it, except Utuniahsoa, a 
man of about sixty, who said that he had heard it in his 
youth, but that it had been forgotten for many years. 

I had thus settled down in the belief that the natives had 
only one song, when one day at Cape York, sitting in my 
tent, while two young men, Publa and Igia, were sitting 
outside, I heard the latter softly humming a tune. Think- 
ing it a white man's air, such as I had heard many natives 
humming (" Ta-ra-ra Boom Dee-ay!" "Kitty, Kitty, Ki' 
Me O," " A Hot Time," etc.), I asked him to repeat it. 
He did so with great alacrity, but on being asked from 
what white man he had learned it, he replied, " Kabluna 
naga, Inuin kisene " ("White men not, Eskimos rather"), 
adding that it was the song of the kopainu (snow-bunting). 

342 



ESKIMO MUSIC 
Kopainu. 

( Snow bunting.) From Igia, Cape York. 

Ai - taktung-mi - u -su- g5n, ai - taktung-mi-u - su-gon. 
gape 



lii^§I^^§^^^^SS 



Tauh-soa te-le - se tauh-soa te-le - se kok-tar-lu - ta kemengraa-ti-gon. 
Man ' ' 'dog 



Here was a revelation! Having written down air and 
words, I repeated the song, to the great astonishment of 
the young men, who expressed the belief that I must be 
an Eskimo. I asked the meaning of the words, but with 
the exception of the word aitakto, which he said meant " to 
open one's mouth," he declared that he did not know, 
that the Eskimos did not talk that way now, but that it 
was the language of their ancestors. Seeing my interest 
in the matter, he presently went through his entire reper- 
toire, and thus I obtained the songs of the burgomaster 
(glaucous) gull, raven, hare, fox. long tailed jaeger (boats- 
wain gull) and gerfalcon. Meantime Publa sat a dumb 
spectator, and, on being urged to sing, replied, " Nadluiga " 
(" I don't know ") : I found out afterward that there are 
great differences among individuals in regard to musical 
gifts, though there is probably none without a musical ear. 
Igia was one of the most songful spirits in the tribe, and, 
with his nearly white complexion and unusually regular 
features, would make a very appropriate figure as the bard 
of a nation. Unfortunately, he verified the common ex- 
perience that the cult of the muses is not conducive to 
worldly prosperity. A desperate attack of rheumatism 
had reduced him to a skeleton; the clothes he wore, a 
small broken sledge and a little wooden box containing a 
few trifles obtained from the white men, constituted the 
sum of his worldly possessions. Like most young bards, 
he was perpetually sighing for connubial bliss, but in his 
destitute condition had very little chance of attaining his 
desire. I am glad to add that I was able, on parting, to 
give him enough wood to build the frame of a kayak, while 

343 



THE WHITE WORLD 

the loan of my gun had enabled him to get enough seal- 
skins to form the cover, so that he is now at least thirty 
percent richer and perhaps need not become the Keats of 
his tribe. 

When the other Eskimos found that songs were in de- 
mand, they, too, came forward with contributions, and 
pretty soon I had exhausted the repertoire of the Cape 
York colony. At any rate, though I repeatedly went over 
the remaining list of animals known to them (bear, walrus, 
seal, muskox, ptarmigan, etc.), in each case they replied, 
" He has no song." However, having returned to our 
station, Fort Magnesia, near Cape Sabine, and there meet- 
ing a number of other Eskimos, I found that their musical 
treasures were more extensive. Though not all the natives 
were able to sing all the songs, they all recognized them. 
It was a common diversion for me to stand before a group 
of them, sing a song out of my notebook and then ask them 
what it was. Not one of them ever failed to name the 
animal to which the song was attributed. They told me 
repeatedly that this was the first time a white man had 
taken notice of their songs, and been able to repeat them. 
Awia (or Niwikengwa) wanted to see my tongue, thinking 
there must be something peculiar about it to enable me to 
sing like them. She asked whether my mother had not 
been an Eskimo. 

My authorities at Cape York, besides Igia, were Angu- 
tibluahsu, a stalwart man of thirty; Igiengwa, his stepson, 
a very bright boy of fourteen; Publa's sister, Kuyaping, a 
timid girl of fourteen; Atuhsu, a woman of perhaps seventy. 
At Fort Magnesia my authorities were Awia (Niwikengwa), 
a very intelligent woman of about forty, wife of Akoma- 
dingwa; her son, Angudlu, a man of about twenty-five, one 
of the bravest and most persevering hunters of .the tribe; 
her daughter, Akatengwa, a girl of eleven, who promises to 
surpass her mother in intelligence, though not in industry; 
Kawiengwa, a rather reticent fellow of about eighteen; 
Utuniahsoa, a famous bear hunter and traveller of about 
sixty, and his daughter, Anarwi, wife of Aseyu, a couple 
so intelligent and well mannered that nature actually seems 
to have been cruel in endowing them with such brains and 
then thrusting them into a corner of the globe where they 
have so little use for them. 

344 



ESKIMO MUSIC 

The additional songs I obtained not by direct question- 
ing but by accidentally overhearing them and then making 
them repeat. I would note down the first phrase, and ask 
them to sing again. They would start from the beginning, 
and when they had finished the next phrase I would stop 
them and write down some four or six additional notes. 
To start in the middle was generally beyond their power. 
For this reason I was never able to record the long choral 
song " Haya ya ya " completely, for having to go back to 
the beginning after every four or six or eight notes written 
down, they got confused and ran off into protean varia- 
tions. This song, for that matter, has already been re- 
corded by means of the graphophone. 

All the songs, except the choral one, were sung in a 
curiously low tone, inaudible thirty feet away. If I sang 
them louder than that, they would tell me, " That is not the 
way the Eskimo sing." It will be readily understood that 
the ordinary musical notation does not give a perfectly life- 
like picture of such music. In some cases, indeed, it is 
accurate enough; in others, the notes indicate merely the 
culminating points of a wave line. This, of course, is true 
of nearly all singing unmodified by technical training. The 
Eskimo songs were actually easier to imitate and record 
than those of some of the Newfoundland sailors on board 
the Windward. The " gout du terroir " cannot be con- 
veyed by conventional symbols. The airs have here been 
divided into bars, where the measure was conspicuous; in 
other cases no bars are used, although some kind of meas- 
ure was distinctly noticeable. 

The results of two years' collection were thirty-eight 
songs. It is probable that the number might be at least 
doubled under more favorable circumstances. For this 
purpose, one would have to reside near one of their villages 
continuously for at least two years, and question every indi- 
vidual in the tribe, especially the old people. As before 
noted, the words of the songs belong mostly to an ar chaic 
language, so that the Eskimo themselves are generally un- 
able to understand them. Such meanings as could be made 
out are noted beneath the original. 



345 



THE WHITE WORLD 



Kopainn. 

(Snow bunting.) 



5B 



From Igyengwa, Cape York. 



|=5= 



=5=1==; 



=5=5= 



4=t= 



S=S= 



-»-^- 



:fc=U: 



=3=3= 



Tauh - soa ke-me - pa 
Man ' dog 



ti-gon, 



kok-tar - lu - ta ke - me - pa 



===*==j===£==i 



=£= 



ti - gon 



te ye ye te ye 



te ya 



ye. 



Kopainu, 

(Snow bunting.) 



From Atuhsu, Cape York. 



=:u==£=*==: 
Wi - a wi - 



=> 



:ts=fc= 



=5=t*= 



wi - a na- pe-ting ma - so pin- ga-nin- gi - ta 



1- 



=1= 



£====* 



an - ga - nin - gi - ta so kali-sung- mi wi 



=&====U 
wi - a. 



Akpadliahsu, 

( Dovekie.) 



?z^ T - * L_J =tz=ta — * =r=£==ta= =— a ~= = 

I - keng-ma - na nau - ya - tu 
glaucous gull 



From Igia, Cape York. 

"mi 



t 



ay - a 



ye- 



Akpadliahsu, 

(Dovekie.) 



From Kawiengwa. 



■i 



i£E£E£g ^E^=m = i=i^iJ ^mm 



I nu - i - to pin - gi - na - ni ta - ku - do - to ki-tong-a - to. 

see 'child 



346 



ESKIMO MUSIC 
Akpadlia. 

(Young dovekie.) 



Awia's version. 



=|=3=a=a= 



■!==5t 



4= 



-?■=-*-- 



I - mer - ma - fLa 

water this 



t-^3 ca- 



ay 



nan - ya - tu - so 
glaucous gull 



=g=i=S: 



mm 



ay 



kitongang wa 
"child 



q*_>_=5==5v: 






n=q= 



■£=?-- 



ff=st 



:*--J: 



no - ri - mime-sung 1 



dla. 



nauyah-sui - ni - dla. 
glaucous gull 



Akpadlia, 

(Young dovekie ) 



:3=r= 



Anarwi's version. 



:=£*=!= 



:*=S=3= 



Sa - ka - pe 



Su - dli - li - kwa 



1 - mer- ma -na 
water this 



=£$t=3- 



:=T= 
-wtzzz, 



=*==*= 



=*=£= 



^ 



-*— at 



hay 



nau - ya - tu - so ma - fia hay - a. 
glaucous gull this 



=»=!*= 



-I* — i s — 1= 



zwlzzzzMzzzzwtzzzzzi 



ki ton - gah-pangma ke - e - soh-pangma ang ni-giuh-pangma. 
child weep 



Akpadlia. 



7ft- 




(Young dovekie. 

/7\ 


) 


Adingnedlu's version. 


f- 


J J 

I - mer - 

water 


J S * J 


m 


=N 


» J 3 3 

nau - ya - tu - so 
glaucous gull 

— ! -1*— j I*— n 


=&«- 


this 

^ 1 






— * >— 

s — -3 — 


* — ii — =1 — =! *U 




* 


_J- ^ J. — =^ j 


tJ 














ma - fia hay - a. 

this 



he. 



he. 



he. 



347 



THE WHITE WORLD 
T lid hi a, 

( Raven.) From Igia, Cape York. 



4=1 



=^=^v=: 



Ay - e 



me-ka 






i^r^rrfs; 



zm?ggzjr$ i -m-$J-*zzmzz&*-3z 



ay - e i-me-ka hi - a hi - a hi- a ya ya ai. 



Tudlna, 

( Raven.) 



Frorn Kawiengwa. 



il^II^iimiliilfl 



:=S_ 



Au - dla 

go away 



ap - ta 
also 



ak - ta - ni - die - 



ma ma - 
ill - 




mangi - die - ma 
smelling 



a ye 



i - a ye ya krung. 
(croak) 



Nauya, 

(Glaucous gulk) 












From Igia, Cape York. 



4a= 



I - zi - ke 
feet 



ta - rak - tun 



zi ke k« 



ta 



-l 



:qv=qs==!5: 



:=ls=:=S= 



rak - tun 



teS= 



auk - pi - lang payung 
red 



ta ya ya ye. 



Kihsawiahsu, 

(Ger falcon.) 



From Igia, Cape York. 



Ki - se 
rather 



-& & 



ne makwa 
these 



ang - \vu 



yu - a 



=*= 



tu - ni 



nah - so 
lowland 



yu 



tu 



pi - a - 
walk 



re - gli 



:£=P=jb: 



ki - ne - i 



tyen 



ki - nak - tar - lui 



=ff= 



348 



ESKIMO MUSIC 
Istmga, 

(Long tailed Jaeger gull.) 

From Igia, Cape York. 

_J7\ S7\ 

- ^— y— %=^t=£=* 1^ ?=9L=9c^=5=^g=^= 

Angna sidlang-na ang - na ya ang-na sidlang-na ya 
far outdoors 



ang-na sidlang-na ang-na ang - na su - na - su - ki - a. 

certainly 

Akiseng, 

(Ptarmigan.) From Utuniahsoa. 

Slow and rasping. Quick. 



J 



v> 



To - kang - u - ya pa - pe - ro pa - pe - ro pa - pe - ro. 

Toryenya, 

(Fox.) From Igia, Cape York. 



w=z=2=£=P —m — m—m= . ==e=£=e=j 



— — — i f- — m ^ — m — = — — — i f^—m ^ 

-Jg=^aWr=zp= = ti a ^fe=?=^=J^r=p==U— y— ■— ^ ^ fr- 

Pi - a - ka - ti - ge pi - a - ka - ti - ge ming - ne - der ■ 

walk jump 



i t* — ^ — » ^ -^™ — fa» — t»» — ** — fr» — - — v — t»» — f— ^ — r faj — 

ma - ti - ge ming-ne - der ma-ti - ge au-rih-sangwa ya ye. 

Ukadleng, 

(Hare.) From Igia, Cape York. 



~d=m- 



-^ ^ ^ » ^ ^ fc,- 



A - wang - a pi - si - wang - ap - ta ke-mang - ap - ta 






kiih - i - li - ma - ne i - la - li ma - ne mah - sok - to 
"river 



5 



* — b* b* «■». t* — b* — *»s' 



li - ma - ne i - kar - ah-soar - na - ga i - kar - pahpu - gon. 
349 



THE WHITE WORLD 
Nanu, 

(BearO 



From Utuniahsoa. 



^?=i 



^==ik: 



ElE£El= 



m=X 



Ning - au - ah - siig - wa si - dlu - dli - uh - sadlang - man 



:qv=3- 



^ 



t- 



sa - kok-pun - ga sa - kok-pun - ga sa - kok - pun - ga. 



Nanu, 

(Bear.) 






--it 



From Utuniahsoa. 



--%*- 



:ff=**=S»= 



3==E 



Ah -sau - ti - ka makwa a - mih-sung - ah - pu. 
arm-bones these many 



:q^t3SiiS 



:- X->-l = 



z3=t?=3z 



-^zM-mz 



~S -K— -g — h — [ 



:g:=:3= 



=3=2 



From Igyengwa, Cape York. 

— i m — m — &, — j 



Ka-no a-ma-nu-na 
"how 



sin - ga - zu - pi - u ka - no a- ma-nu - na 



^=s 



=S 



"-S---ST 



s=jt=^==r 






33B53P 



sin-ga-zu-pi - u ka-no a-ma-nu-na sin-ga-zu- pi - u. 



From Atuhsu, Ctepe York. 



:g3— » — u 



=}=JtzS; 



=1 



'-#K?=-=S: 



J=fct=^z 



-I 1— 



afc=afcil=s=ifc 



:*=S=i= 



Ay - a ya ya ay 



a ya ya ay - a ta-sengwa ay - a ta-sengwa. 
now 



From Awia. 



I 






s^.t 



^r=ffz 



Su - na 
What? 



y a 



ya ay - a 



ya 



ya ya su - na ya 



S^§£ 



1 - a ya ya ya 



:d==t 



*=l=t fr= 



=*=2= 



ya ya ya su - na ya e. 
3SO 



ESKIMO MUSIC 



From Kuyaping, Cape York. 



^ 



:S=S= 



-_ > — N — is — I* — Sb- 



Gle - ku gle - ku gle - ku gle - ku ku - ke yin-ga - yu. 



From Akatengwa. 




ni ya na - ni ya na - ni ya na - ni ya na - ni 



:=*==*: 



-- f * j-j —p-r . 



-1^1^ 









ya na-ni ya na-ni ya na-ni ya na-ni luhsai-wa-te su-na ya ai. 

what? 



From Akatengwa. 



««- 



gggg g^ 



-f=\=t 



^vqsiq*=qv 



=t?=3:3t» 



:srS=^ 



Kuy-audlih-soa ke-taudlihsoa adi - tarlu adlo-kena-dlo a- ko - e. 



From Akatengwa. 



P 



I^P 



B=J= 



I 



I - ma - zuk - suh - soa 
Great-Spearman (spirit) 



i - nung - ning ne - ka - 
Eskimos eats 



dlih - sa ha e - hoe ha e - hoe ha e - hoe. 



=15= 



^ 



Na - nu 
bear 



me - he 



l&l 



From Akatengwa. 

1^*, ^ 

== 4-J 3= 



ki - tong - a 
•child 



kar 



he 



;=|*=|5= 



*=& 



: l^=|i 



:^==s=^s=; 



:tt*=S=ffi 



=&*- 



ke-ner-ned lar - me 
1. 



ho na - nu na 

2. Ekareosa's ending. 



at=zs= 



=5t 
na 



fc*3=3= 



nu 



^=ptz 



:=)*= 

:■!= 



na - nun 
351 



die 



=1 



THE WHITE WORLD 

From Utuniahsoa. 
Sung by Idlengwa, an old man, many years ago. 



■= a~r- 



-r—r- 



=S=P 



z?=J--Jz 



t: 



ztzz=L 



Ka-no ya ya ka-no ya ya ka-no ya ya ka-no ya ya. 



Sung by Apidla, son of Amangwa. 



From Akatengwa. 



"=p 



$ "3 



8=gdE- 



=&= 



Ar-weng ke - po - ka tu - nu-dling ti - kau - dli - ah-su 
wbale * back 



=S=^ 



an - ir - nedlung ki - u - ti - dlu - s5ng 
pain teeth 



3E 



i=q>=;qs^ 



i - me - mi se - di 
in water is present 



^ 



^*= 



S =S 



=f=F 



se - di se - di se - di tu - dlu - kan me - kong. 

raven feather 



f 



From Akatengwa. 



Sung by Apidla, son of Amangwa. 



:r — r- 



:ff=P" 



qp=fc 



Ya yah - sa ya ya ya ka-kong sin-ga- zu - i - wan 



:£=£= 



ya yali - sa ya ya ya ke- me -mi -sun i - di-blunga 




ya ya ya ya 



:^s= 



=2=?zzzzjz 



Mother sings to child, 
-q* — 1= 



From Anarwi. 



:=S=S= 



z^—^—^z 



:_m — p 



Ta-gli - ne - to a - gli - ne - to ta - gli - ne - to a - gli - ne - to. 

352 



ESKIMO MUSIC 



Child cries to mother. 

, 1- 



From Anarwi. 






=5= 



=3= 



O - ma - ka ta - gli - ne si - pan - ga a - gli - ne 



— N— 1- 



:il=Sr 



-S=it 



si-pan - ga o - ma-ti-tak - to tin - ga in - e - dlu - a. 

intestines 



From Angudlu. 
Brought from Baffin Land some thirty years ago. 



=S= 



azat 



A - ning - a pi - zih - sa 
bow 



tin 



gi - pa 



i - kau 



:=]*=zzl*z 



:*— ut 



-■3*=* 



~-=tsz 



-jt=M=*-=Mz 



zM^Mi 



=3 __fe — \z 



:qv=z* 



-J*—*r 



i - glu - i - nang ay - o - me - ke - ta ay - a - yau me- ke - ta 



— w — * —*—*■ — *> — m~m>- w — m a»~a n— *— ml * — m> — m *— »— H 

pau-te-ke-ta ka-ya-ke-ta kingu - e-tye kin-gu-se-ke se-ke. 
oar skin boat shrimp 



I 



Words indistinguishable. 



From Angutibluahsu, Cape York. 



:qz=osr:qv=^5iz3=d==S=l=Hi : ==l==3i=^^=qs=^v 



&— "3=3=3= 






=3=*: 



:*=3- 



-9 — -F & 



^-^=3^ 



:3=1= 



From Atuhsu, Cape York. 



3=3=^ 



-3 -3 



=l=d==)==a^-| 



M=M- E5EJ: 



=3=3= 



Lg313li3SippiS|ipS^iEii|^i| 



353 



THE WHITE WORLD 



h times. 



From Akatengwa, who learned it from Alekasingwa. 
l time, then repeat No. 1. 



No, 1. 



No. 3. 



From Akatengwa. 
Used in counting— atauseng, mahlu, pingazun, sisamen, tadlimen, etc 
13 3 4 5 



From Akatengwa. 
"Words improvised, air probably traditional. 



-- h# — la — b*- 



-v— £— y- 



mi-a.Vi-sn - a. a-wa-ni n-wn.-ni n-wn-ni 



Audlakto te u - mi-ah-so - a 
Away goes the ship 



a- wa-m a- wa-ni 
over there 



From Akatengwa. 

Air probably traditional. Words an imitation of a well-known English 
exclamation. 




Ko - te - mi ko - te - mi ko - te - mi ko 



i? 



etc. 



te 



mi ko 



te 



mi ko - te - mi ko - te - mi. 



The value of the letters in the spelling here adopted is 
the same as in German, with the following exceptions. 
W sounds nearly as in English; s is always surd (as in 
miss) but represents a sound made by thrusting the tip 
of the tongue down and forward and arching its back 
against the hard palate; z is the same sound but sonant 
(that is, bearing the same relation to Eskimo s that Eng- 
lish z does to English s); k is pronounced farther back 
than k; g is like Dutch g; h like German ch; r is the Par- 



354 



ESKIMO MUSIC 

isian r grasseye; e is like German a, French e; ng at the 
end of words is almost inaudible, being identical with the 
French n in on. A very peculiar sound is that of r. In 
pronouncing the English r, the tip of the tongue is put 
close against the hard palate; for German r the position is 
a little more forward. If you fix the anterior edge of the 
tongue against the lower incisors, and, with the tongue 
quite lax, try to pronounce r (either English or German), 
the result will be the Eskimo f. Vowels with dash over 
them are long (leliou); vowels with curve over them 
are short (a e g 1 o u). Consonants with dash over or 
under them (m h t) are sustained, like Italian double con- 
sonants, as in dotto, Giovanni, there being a perceptible 
pause between the " onset " and " offset " of the conso- 
nant. 

It is not to be supposed that these airs resemble the 
voices of the animals to which they are attributed. This 
is not at all the case. The snow bunting's real song, for 
example, is as follows: 



The raven, besides his ordinary croak, has a rather 
musical call, which, according to the Eskimos, he uses only 
in the pairing season: 



I 



-t- 



Krung ! krung 1 

The second note especially has a remarkably pleasant 
metallic ring, dying away gradually like the sound of a 
tuning fork. The boy Akeo imitated it to perfection. 

The words of the songs, so far as could be learned, are 
intended to express the sentiments which the animals may 
be supposed to entertain in accordance with the vicissi- 
tudes of their lives. Thus, the snow bunting's song, I was 
told, is the bird's lament at the snares which the Eskimo 
children set for him. The dovekie, in its songs, seems to 
be greatly exercised about the nauya or glaucous (burgo- 
master) gull, and with very good reason, as that fierce 

355 



THE WHITE WORLD 

creature spends the summer in swallowing dovekies, old 
and young. 

It is difficult to describe my astonishment on finding 
that this little tribe of supposed " savages," often (though 
quite erroneously) classed among the lowest of mankind, 
living only 770 to 980 miles from the Pole (further north 
than any other human beings), actually possess two lan- 
guages, one for every-day use, the other, an archaic one, 
for the " higher life " of poetry and music! It is altogether 
probable that the use of this archaic language is much 
more extensive than I was able to ascertain, extending, no 
doubt, to their religious incantations, which sometimes last 
an hour. Could these be carefully studied, what a mine of 
information they might disclose in regard to the mental 
life and perhaps also the history of this most interesting 
tribe! Apparently the archaic language does not differ so 
greatly from the current speech but that it might be readily 
interpreted, with the aid, perhaps, of other Eskimo dialects. 
P^or my part I could hardly wish for a pleasanter occupa- 
tion. 

A famous poet declares his intention to sing the songs 
of his native land 

"Till thy conquerors themselves, as they rivet thy chains, 
Shall pause at the song of their captive and weep." 

Whether the Eskimo songs here recorded will have the 
physiological effect of stimulating the activity of the 
lachrymal glands it would be difficult to say; but no one 
can help feeling more kindly toward these remote cousins 
of ours on learning that in the most forbidding circum- 
stances imaginable, amid their daily struggle to escape the 
clutch of famine, the first moment of leisure finds them 
bursting into melody. To any one desirous of lightening 
their lot, it will be an added pleasure to know that any 
increase of leisure which may be procured for them is 
likely to result in an increased cultivation of the " higher 
life." This sort of hobby would not be very expensive. 
The annual cost of many a single household, nay of a 
single span of horses, in the United States, is greater than 
would suffice to place the entire tribe of 250 human beings 
in comfort such as they have never known. 

356 



PERILS OF POLAR WHALING 



CAPTAIN BRADLEY S. OSBON. 

Bradley S. Osbon was born in Rye, N. Y., 
Aug., 1828. Has made two voyages to the Arc- 
tic Ocean and served in a whaler in extended 
trip to Antarctic. Has served in the United 
States (under Farragut) Chinese, Argentine, 
Mexican navies. Received many decorations 
for gallantry. 




CAPTAIN BRADLEY S. OSBON 



PERILS OF POLAR WHALING 

By CAPTAIN BRADLEY S. OSBON 




f E had spent nearly a month at Hobart Town, in 
Van Diemen's Land " recruiting ship," that is, 
taking in water, wood and provisions, and giv- 
ing the boys a chance to stretch their legs, 
after being confined on shipboard for nearly 
six months. Then we weighed anchor for the 
Antarctic Ocean, which was reported to be 
alive with a new species of whale, expecting to 
return to port in perhaps less than three months, " chock 
a block" with oik and bone, to refit for our homeward 
voyage. From master to cook, no one on board had ever 
been in these waters, and but little was known of them by 
navigators or geographers. Certainly the whalemen were 
as ignorant of the ground to be covered as a Fijian is of 
an ice trust. But in those days it was the whalemen who 
were the explorers, the missionaries, the civilizers of the 
Pacific Ocean islands, and the hydrographers of the almost 
unknown seas. 

The " Junior " was almost a new ship, having been en- 
tirely rebuilt before starting on this voyage, and was as 
stout as live oak, locust treenails, and copper bolts could 
make her. She was provisioned for a four years' cruise, 
and was commanded by a splendid navigator and kind- 
hearted gentleman; with three excellent mates, four good 
boat steerers, a cooper, a carpenter, a blacksmith, and as 
sturdy a crew as ever hoisted a topsail or manned a whale- 
boat. In fact, if ever any ship with its crew was fitted for 
such a cruise it was the " Junior." 

It was not long after we left Van Diemen's Land, and 
pointed our prow southward, that we fell in with the 
proverbial Antarctic weather, and the conflicting currents 



361 



THE WHITE WORLD 

with which those waters abound. The farther south we 
penetrated, the worse these conditions became. Baffling 
winds prevailed, followed by severe gales, fast and furious. 
Sleet, snow, rain and hail came from all quarters of the 
compass, and the sun scarcely deigned to show its face 
for days at a time. The weather was penetratingly cold, 
the sea confused, and we began to realize that no one could 
tell just where we were. Dead reckoning was indeed a 
broken reed to lean upon. Soundings were of no use, as 
we had no charts upon which to plot our position. So far 
as worry was concerned, my impression is, those in the 
after end of the boat had the worst of it, as we in the fore- 
castle were not responsible for the safety of the ship, nor 
cognizant of the danger threatening it and our precious 
lives. After we had been out from the land a month, per- 
haps, we began to see whales, but they were the common, 
useless, much-despised " sulphur bottoms," large in size, 
and swift in their movements, but paying no attention to 
our presence in their cruising grounds. Still, we steered 
clear of them, lest at some time we might provoke them to 
give us a slap with their ponderous flukes, which they 
could wield with a tremendous power, sufficient to crush 
our frail craft as if it were an egg-shell. It was tantalizing 
to see anything of the species whale, and not be able to 
lower away and secure it. Day after day passed with 
these big fish tempting us, until at last our captain resolved 
to attempt to kill one of the fellows. His boat was pre- 
pared by putting in two extra tubs of whale line, making 
four tubs in all, and with a picked boats' crew, the main 
topsail was laid to the mast, and the boat lowered away. 
All hands- gathered at -the starboard waist rail to see the 
sport, for we knew that a " sulphur bottom " was just the 
fish to furnish it. There was no trouble in approaching the 
monster, which was at least one hundred and twenty-five 
feet long and he lay almost motionless on the surface of the 
water. 

The boat steerer stood up, and just as. the boat got within 
three or four fathoms of the whale, he drove both irons 
chock-home in the fish. The whale quivered, and then giving 
a start, threw up his flukes and took a header for the bottom 
— if there was any bottom of the ocean at that spot. We had 

362 



PERILS OF POLAR WHALING 

peaked our oars and had faced forward to grab the line 
and check him. That line went out quicker than a wink. 
It was buz-z-z-z-z around the logger head which was smok- 
ing like a tar pot on fire, and before we could realize what 
had happened, the four tubs of whale line, 600 fathoms, or 
3600 feet, had disappeared forever. The " old man " stood 
paralyzed at the outgo, and at last, recovering himself, 
said: " Damn the whale, go' ahead." I have often won- 
dered if Farragut did not hear of that saying and sub- 
stitute the word " torpedo " for whale in his memorable 
utterance at Mobile Bay. The old man grieved over the 
loss of that whale line, and out of spite one day, we lowered 
a boat and stole a calf whale from its mother's side, killed 
and hoisted it bodily on board ship. We tried it out, the 
net products being five barrels of sulphur bottom whale 
oil, which we burned in our lamps, and a nice mess of whale 
meat. 

That ended our whaling in the Antarctic, but not our 
miseries. For nearly four months we battled with storm, 
field-floe and berg ice, having many narrow escapes, and 
when we finally emerged from the frigidity, mingled with 
the fogs, which caused much suffering, it was unanimously 
resolved that we never would spend another summer in the 
Antarctic Ocean. 

We had spent a summer in the Antarctic, and were full 
of yarns to spin to our fleet-mates whom we had met on 
our passage north, over the sperm whale grounds of the 
Pacific Ocean and among the groups of islands which dot 
its chart, little dreaming that we were actually pointing 
our prow for the Arctic Ocean; but it was to come to pass. 
We fell in with a ship one day, the^crew of which brought 
us the news of the discovery of the celebrated bowhead 
whale of the 40's. No sooner had we learned the details 
than we spread sail to reach the Bering Sea gates to the 
North Pole, and enter the domains of the new whale, said 
to " stow down " anywhere from three hundred to five hun- 
dred barrels. Night and day we carried sail like an India- 
man, to reach the goal, and, with a speedy ship, we turned 
up at the Fox Islands in May. 

As soon as the ice permitted, we entered the precincts 
where we were to realize our hopes for a " full ship " of oil 

363 



THE WHITE WORLD 



and bone. The whales were of very large size; one that we 
captured stewing down three hundred and sixty-five bar- 
rels, and furnishing over three thousand pounds of bone. 
We captured over three thousand barrels of oil with its 
proportion of whalebone, and had all sorts of experiences 
with Eskimo, bears, seals, fishes and birds, on water and 
on land. We had fine weather, ran no special risks, and 
enjoyed ourselves heartily; but all the 
same, I should not select that region 
for a steady summer resort. 

I was a party to a bathing adven- 
ture, the recital of which may be inter- 
esting. We had lowered all four 
boats in pursuit of three whales which 
were circulating near the ship. My 
boat inopportunely got in the way of a 
bull whale and he " spanked " the boat 
into smithereens with his huge tail. 
Tom Cole and myself, each with an 
oar in hand, went over the port gun- 
whale into the sea, while the rest of the 
crew went off on the other side, and, 
fortunately, were quickly rescued by 
the other boats. Poor Tom and I 
were within the charmed circle, made 
by the three whales, for they were 
swimming around in a ring, into which 
not one of the boats dared to go, lest 
it should be " spanked." We were 
both good swimmers; besides we had 
two oars to support us, so we had 
no fear of drowning. The crews of 
the three boats were far more exer- 
cised for our safety than we were. 
We supposed the whales would soon 
get tired of their ring work and move 
off, or have a fight, or do something 
to release us from our watery prison — 
but no, they kept it up, never mind- 
ing us a bit. 






THERE SHE BLOWS' 



364 



PERILS OF POLAR WHALING 

We were the recipients of many words of encouragement 
from our shipmates, who stood ready to rescue us as soon 
as the whales gave them an opportunity. Finally, we both 
felt that some chewing tobacco would be a comfort, and 
we hailed the outsiders for a supply; in a minute the air 
was full of bits of the weed in plug form, of which we 
secured several samples. As Tom was a colored boy with 
curly hair, I was obliged to carry our supply tied up in 
my flowing locks to keep it out of the wet. 

After our lunch of tobacco, we quietly rested on our 
oars. When we had been nearly three hours in the water, 
the two bull whales resolved to have a " scrap," and as they 
broke the circle, the second mate's boat rushed in, picked 
us up, and started with us for the ship. We were com- 
fortable while in the water, but half-frozen when we were 
in the boat. After a good rubbing down, a drink of hot 
brandy, and a night's sleep, Tom and I were none the 
worse for our bath in the Arctic Ocean. 

The following year found me again in the Arctic Ocean 
on board of the brig " Swallow," in the capacity of super- 
cargo and ice pilot. I subsequently learned that this vessel 
bore a history, and from all I could ascertain, she had been 
an opium smuggler, and it was vaguely hinted that she 
was no better than a pirate, should opportunity present 
itself to the captain. All the same, she was a smart, 
swift craft, carrying a crew of about fifty men, and mount- 
ing eight guns in broadside, and a pivot gun amidship. 
She was well handled, and was a match for any vessel of 
her tons and guns. We had only one little " event " on the 
way north, when the vessel was enriched with some $20,000 
in Mexican silver dollars, four or five hundred pounds of 
opium, and a good many thousand Manila cigars. If there 
are any Chinamen living who participated in this event T 
will leave them to tell the story. 

However, without any extraordinary happenings, the 
" Swallow " entered the Arctic Ocean early in June, and 
endeavored, as far as possible, to keep out of sight of the 
whalemen, who were now flocking to these waters ; and as 
they were busy, they took no pains to go in quest of us. 
My previous visit had brought me in touch with some of 
the natives, and it was not long before they understood 

365 



THE WHITE WORLD 

the " Swallow " was not in those waters to catch whales, 
but to buy furs and walrus ivory, a trade that was con- 
trolled and watched over by Russian authorities, who at 
times had one or two cruisers in those waters, to prevent 
poachers and traders from carrying off these valuable goods. 
We made considerable headway in our trading, but in the 
hope of getting a valuable lot of furs that we had sent 
some natives to secure, we held on too long and were 
nipped by the ice, and despite all our efforts to get out, we 
were obliged to spend the winter in the Arctic. 

After the captain found that we were destined to pass 
several months in our icy house, he seemed to lose all his 
snap, and from the closest mouthed man of all on board, 
to me especially, he became as a child in my hands, and 
in my capacity as ice pilot, I virtually took command of 
the vessel. After sending down the light spars and lower- 
ing the top masts, I directed nearly all the provisions to be 
taken on shore and safely stored, so that in the event of the 
vessel being crushed by ice, we might have food until the 
whaling fleet came early next summer. 

Fortunately, our anchorage was near the spot where the 
whaleship " Richmond," of Cold Spring, New York, had 
been wrecked the year before, so that her timbers gave us 
ample firewood for the winter. We lived a quiet, unevent- 
ful life during this term of our imprisonment, with about 
a dozen natives in our company. Occasionally we had 
fresh bear meat, some fish, and upon the whole fared well. 

It was toward the end of May that with the spars all 
" a taunto," the remainder of the provisions on board, and 
a valuable lot of furs and several tons of walrus tusks in 
the hold, we bade farewell to our dusky friends, and headed 
the little brig to the southward. 

We were very fortunate in getting through the ice with- 
out many delays and were speeding south with a favoring 
breeze, when the lookout sang out " Sail Ho! " which was 
a rarity that brought every one to the deck. 

It was not long before we made her out to be a bark- 
rigged Russian cruiser, a trifle larger in tonnage than the 
brig. As soon as he discovered us, he clapped on all 
drawing canvas and stood for us. We were soon given to 
understand by our captain that the Russian could not have 

366 



PERILS OF POLAR WHALING 

our cargo without a fight, and the magazine was opened 
and guns were double shotted. Cutlasses and pistols were 
served out, and everything gotten ready for trouble. 

Whether our captain feared the Russian could overpower 
him or not, I never knew, but all at once the orders were 
given to set the studding sails, and as the brig paid off to 




BOATING AMID ICE FLOES 



a quartering wind, up went the kites, and she soon was 
bowling off ii knots. The cruiser opened fire on us with 
bow guns but the shot fell wide of us. We shifted one of 
our broadside guns aft, and returned the fire, but with as 
little effect as had that of our pursuer. 

The Russian spread every available stitch of canvas but 
we were dropping him rapidly astern. The race continued 
on the same course until about 8 o'clock that night, when 
Ave took in all light sails and hauled the brig up to the wind, 
standing to the westward, until about daylight, when we 
shaped our course to pass out behind the islands and into 
neutral waters. 

367 



THE WHITE WORLD 

We saw no more of the Russian, although we kept up a 
vigilant watch for him, believing that he would attempt to 
capture us wherever he found us. A few weeks after 
leaving our winter quarters in the Arctic, we arrived at 
Honolulu, where I was paid off and left the " Swallow." 

She sailed from there for Hongkong, which was her 
trading headquarters, but no tidings were ever received 
from her. She probably was lost on some uncharted rock, 
or went down in a storm. With her ended my polar 
voyages, but the memory of them is ever cherished as the 
most valued of a long sea life — one full of adventures and 
full of pleasures. 



368 



AMERICA'S 
FIRST POLAR EXPEDITION 



ALBERT WHITE VORSE. 

Albert White Vorse was born in Littleton, 
Mass., Aug., 1866. In the summer of 1892 Mr. 
Vorse accompanied the Peary Relief Expedi- 
tion to Greenland, as correspondent of the press. 
Is the writer of many short stories, dealing with 
the Arctic regions. Editor, critic and literary 
adviser. 




ALBERT WHITE VORSE 



AMERICA'S FIRST POLAR EXPEDITION 

By ALBERT WHITE VORSE 




Y THE present generation of grandfath- 
ers the first important exploring expe- 
dition sent forth by the United States is 
clearly remembered. In their prime it 
was a public scandal, and to every loyal 
American, the great Wilkes-Ross con- 
troversy which followed it, was a pri- 
vate issue. Hints of the controversy have descended to 
sons and grandsons ; so also have records setting forth the 
fine achievements of the expedition; but the story of its 
organization is stowed away in the obscure memory cells 
of men far beyond their youth, and buried in the dusk of 
libraries. For the sake of the illustration it affords of 
the bearing of petty jealousies upon great enterprises, this 
story is perhaps worthy to be pieced together. 

The expedition was organized in the days when there 
was still the fascination of mystery about ocean voyages. 
The maps of continents still showed blank spaces. The 
chart of the South Sea was not dotted with islands. Mer- 
chant ships sailed under instructions, not only to trade in 
known lands, but also to discover new ones. Governments 
still dispatched fleets to rove about the ocean, merely to 
satisfy the white man's curiosity concerning the world 
upon which he lived. This was little more than half a 
century ago. One of the objects of the United States Ex- 
ploring Expedition which sailed in 1838, was to determine 
accurately the longitude of Rio de Janeiro. 

With the enthusiasm of discovery, the citizens of the 
United States were highly charged. Following in the 
course of Captain Edmund Fanning — he of " Fanning' s 
Voyages," a popular book in the time when narratives of 
sea travel were sought out by other readers than school 

373 



THE WHITE WORLD 

boys — a fleet of vessels from Nantucket, New Bedford, 
New York, and other American seaports, cruised to the 
whaling grounds south of Cape Horn, or took seals at 
Massafuero Island, carried the furs to China, bartered for 
China goods, and brought home cargoes that made owners 
rub their hands with pleasure. Fifty thousand dollars was 
not an uncommon profit for such a voyage, and in those 
days fifty thousand dollars was a good, sound bit of capital. 

The South Sea industry prospered. In the second de- 
cade of this century, 132,000 tons of shipping and 10,000 
men were occupied in this profitable trade. Nor was the 
object of these seamen altogether commercial. The spirit 
of exploration, pure and simple, was held in higher esteem 
than it is to-day. Captain Fanning could urge his fellow- 
citizens to attempt that " laudable enterprise " the dis- 
covery of the South Pole, so that " other nations might 
not snatch the credit and honor away from our own," 
without fear of reading in his newspaper, the question, 
" What is the discovery of the South Pole worth? " 

Voyages to the ice-fields and among the unknown rocks 
of the Antarctic were dangerous, particularly in ships that 
to-day would be deemed hardly fit for the deep seas. 
Many of the craft of the sealers displaced but forty or fifty 
tons. Several such vessels came to grief upon strange 
reefs, and in the first decade of the century there arose a 
sentiment that the United States ought to look to the 
interests of its southern trade. It was almost twenty years 
before the South Sea merchants, influential as they were, 
could bring Congress to take this view of the matter, but 
at length, in 1828, the General Assembly of New York, the 
mayor and prominent citizens of Charleston, South Caro- 
lina, the governor and prominent citizens of North Caro- 
lina, the House of Delegates of Maryland, and many pri- 
vate persons sent to Washington memorials, praying for 
a small expedition that should chart the sealing and whal- 
ing regions of the South, make known new opportunities 
for trade, discover new lands, and add to the glory of the 
United States. 

Congress responded at once; not by sending out the 
expedition, but by asking naval authorities whether there 
really was need for it. Not until May 14, 1836, did it pass 
the bill, instructing the President to dispatch a sloop-of- 

374 



AMERICA'S FIRST POLAR EXPEDITION 

war and such other vessels as he might deem needful, 
appropriating $150,000 for expenses, and authorizing the 
Executive to make use of an equivalent amount, in addition, 
drawn from means under the control of the Navy Depart- 
ment. The intention was that this expedition should weigh 
anchor in the fall ; but, unfortunately for this plan, the com- 
mand was offered Captain Thomas ap Catesby Jones, and 
his acceptance involved a series of the most extraordinary 
contentions and delays that ever marred the success of a 
scientific enterprise. 

For two years the preparation of the ships hitched 
along, while all concerned in equipping them wrangled, 
and the public laughed. Only the merest outline of the 
matter can be given here, but whosoever desires to spend 
an entertaining day over interesting literature, is recom- 
mended to the letters that appeared in 1837 and 1838 in 
the " New York Courier," the " Army and Navy Chronicle 
and Scientific Repository," and particularly in a certain 
report, No-. 147, among the executive documents of the 
Twenty-fifth Congress. This document consists mainly of 
letters. There were giant letter-writers in those days, and 
naval officers aired their grievances in public with an 
elaborateness of diction as well as a freedom of speech that 
is surprising to the reader in this epoch of reserve. 

Captain ap Catesby Jones was a particularly fine navi- 
gator of the pen. His letters are full of flowing periods. 
They are also full of italics. In his time, italics were not 
quite out of fashion, and his underscoring may have ap- 
peared natural; nowadays his letters seem fairly to 
scream. Captain Jones was apparently a fine type of the 
old time sea-dog; an honest, peppery, narrow, headstrong 
man, with the dignity of the United States Navy, and of 
the office of post-captain therein heavy upon him; and to 
his sense of the consideration due to his rank are to be 
attributed many of the delays in the equipment. 

The first delay arose from his conception of the scope 
of the expedition, which was grander than the conception 
of Congress. Instead of a sloop-of-war, a brig, and a 
schooner, he requested a second-class frigate, two barques 
or brigs, a store-ship and a schooner. The administration 
fell in with his plans, but the vessels were not at hand; 

375 



THE WHITE WORLD 

they would have to be built. Nor was the appropriation 
large enough to provide a fleet that would cost, in a three 
years' voyage, more than a million dollars. Congress had 
adjourned. Additional funds could not be procured until 
it should meet the next year. 

The Secretary of the Navy, however, decided to take 
chances that an vx post facto appropriation would be made, 
and authorized Captain Jones to go ahead upon the new 
plan. Organization began briskly. The " Macedonian," 
the third frigate of that name, was upon the stocks, almost 
finished. Work on her was hastened. A store-ship also 
was on the stocks, and the construction of the other vessels 
was ordered. The Secretary of the Navy wrote to colleges 
and scientific institutions, requesting advice as to the num- 
ber and character of observers that would be desirable. 
Lieutenant Charles Wilkes was sent abroad to buy scien- 
tific instruments. Captain Jones set to work recruiting his 
six hundred and three men. At this epoch the navy was 
sending out two other fleets, and seamen were hard to 
find; but Captain Jones promised that if he should be per- 
mitted to enlist crews himself, he would soon fill out the 
complement, and, though this was irregular, the captain 
was allowed to have his own way. President Jackson had 
expressed particular interest in the enterprise, and the 
Secretary of the Navy was not disposed to strain at matters 
of form, if only the equipment could be pushed. 

The Secretary of the Navy was Hon. Mahlon Dickerson 
of New Jersey. His portrait in the National Gallery is 
one of those over which the reader pauses for a second 
glance. The forehead and eyes suggest a certain power 
of discrimination; the compressed mouth shows self-con- 
trol, and a curl of the lips indicates a dry sense of humor. 
The Hon. Mahlon Dickerson must have needed all these 
qualities. For not alone did he have to deal with the 
endless matters that legitimately arose in connection with 
the equipment — offers (at government prices) of supplies 
from voters who had supported the Democratic party, and 
looked for recognition; applications for billets with the 
scientific staff, including a few from the supporters of Mr. 
ShegO'gue, who desired to be appointed official portrait 
painter and draftsman to the expedition; protests from 

376 



AMERICA'S FIRST POLAR EXPEDITION 

Captain Fanning and other seafaring men that Captain 
Jones's barques were being constructed upon absurd 
models — not only did he have these letters to answer, but 
he had also to deal with the humors of the commander of 
the expedition. 

The first of these humors was a source of some delay, 
and a great deal of public gossip. It was developed in the 
last month of 1836, when the vessels had been launched, 
and were waiting for their complement — enlistment, alas, 
was not proceeding as rapidly as Captain Jones had hoped. 
The officers were yet to be named. From the beginning, 
before Captain Jones himself had been put in command, 
Mr. Dickerson had intended that Lieutenant Alexander 
Slidell, the well-known author of the " Life of Decatur " 
and of other works, should have a vessel, and should write 
the history of the enterprise; and that Lieutenant Charles 
Wilkes, who had made excellent astronomical observa- 
tions, should have another vessel. Slidell afterwards 
changed his name to Mackenzie, and to-day is better known 
as the commander of the Somers during the mutiny than as 
a writer. Mr. Dickerson had consulted these officers upon 
the subject, and of course rumors of his intention had got 
abroad; and perhaps this is a good place to note that every 
word of news concerning this expedition did get abroad. 

The rumor came to the ears of Captain Jones, and ap- 
parently excited him greatly, for his letters came thick and 
fast. He began with criticisms of Slidell and Wilkes, as 
"inferior officers," but presently betrayed his inner thought. 
Slidell had been consulted with regard to the plans of the 
expedition " while all was silence," exclaimed Captain Jones, 
" towards me. What," he went on to ask, " What ought to 
have been my mortification to find myself called as a com- 
mander, to carry into effect the plans or views of my 
juniors, who are to hold conspicuous stations nominally under 
me, who if they are mortal men will surely view me as a 
rival. One of them is to be historian by authority, to give 
his own version of my acts and doings! If belles-lettres 
attainments are paramount to all other qualifications in Com- 
manders for the Exploring Expedition, why not draw on the 
nation's best resources in that line? Why pass by Irving, 
Cooper, Paulding?" 

377 



THE WHITE WORLD 

Mr. Dickerson contented himself with pointing out that 
none of these gentlemen had asked for the job. Mean- 
while, Lieutenant Slidell was protesting that the affair 
put him in a very mortifying position, for he had told 
all of his friends that he was sure of an appointment. He 
asked for the charges against him, and the Secretary of 
the Navy gave him several of Captain Jones's letters, with 
permission to publish them in the public press, and to 
reply to them. The affair caused a great stir. Slidell's 
many friends supported him eagerly. Washington Irving 
wrote to the President, urging that his gifted young ac- 
quaintance should be appointed. The President himself 
officially recommended Wilkes and Slidell for commands. 
In spite of all the opposition, Captain Jones had his way. 
The Secretary of the Navy, seeing that no harmony could 
exist between the commander and these subordinates, de- 
clined to appoint Wilkes and Slidell, and, as he said rather 
pettishly, " from this time forth ceased to look out for 
officers of scientific attainments for the expedition." 

This little scandal had the serious effect of making 
naval officers shy of the expedition, and in the succeeding 
spring occurred a second public squabble which enhanced 
their shyness. The parties to this affair were Captain 
Jones and Lieutenant Tattnall, an officer who had been 
expressly chosen by the captain to command the barque 
" Pioneer." 

In January, 1837, Lieutenant Tattnall took his vessel to 
Mexico for a trial cruise. When he returned, on March 30, 
Captain Jones was paying a visit to another vessel, and 
during the absence of his superior, the commander of the 
" Pioneer " let out sad stories of his craft. She pitched in 
a seaway — even in a tide-up — so violently as to " endanger 
her masts," and so to deaden her way as to cause her 
to drift bodily to leeward." In those eighty days she 
had pitched out of her three jib-booms, a foretopgallant- 
mast, and a mizzentopmast. Moreover, Lieutenant Tatt- 
nall was not confident that in a double-reefed topsail 
breeze she could claw off a lee shore. 

This news greeted Captain Jones at the landing. " Great 
God," exclaimed an excited relative, " What an account 
they give of the ' Pioneer! ' " 

378 



AMERICA'S FIRST POLAR EXPEDITION 

It must have hurt the captain sorely, for the barques 
had been constructed under his own supervision and ac- 
cording to his own idea, amid impertinent criticisms from 
the merchant marine. He was not a man tamely to admit 
that his vessel could be clumsy. He called for Lieutenant 
Tattnall's official report, which confirmed the rumors; but 
instead of accepting it, he grimly hustled his brood of 
ducklings to sea. He kept them there eight days, during 
which time the weather was pleasant, and returned with 
the report that the vessels were good vessels, and that 
he had never seen a craft better able to claw off a lee 
shore than the " Pioneer." He caused this report to be 
published in the papers. Before he went to sea, he had 
talked over the matter with the Rev. Walter Colton, whom 
he had recommended for appointment as chaplain of the 
expedition. The interview occurred in a public place, and 
Lieutenant Tattnall heard of it. Tattnall was a sensitive 
man, and, as well as Captain Jones, had noble phrases 
at his command. He wrote to his commander as follows: 

" I learn now, with astonishment and mortification, that 
you have openly expressed opinions in regard to the ' Pio- 
neer ' at direct variance with mine, in respect to facts, so 
much indeed as to make it hazardous to my reputation 
to retain the command of a vessel which you deem so 
highly as to have openly declared that you would sooner 
be in her in a lee shore than in almost any vessel you 
know, and of which my opinion is, that she could not in a 
trifling head sea, claw off a lee shore in a double-reefed 
topsail breeze. You, and the country, likewise, would of 
course expect service to be performed by me, which, if 
my opinion prove correct, I could not perform. 

" That this experimental cruise was made in conse- 
quence of opinions expressed by me is universally known 
to the navy, as it is also to every citizen in this borough. 
Why, sir (I respectfully, but in a mortified spirit, ask you), 
why, if your judgment had detected and condemned the 
policy of mine, was it thought necessary to blazon it 
through the land, so as to make my position, already 
painful, more so? 

" I am thus rebuked through the public prints, while at 
the same time I am deprived of the privilege (as this is 

379 



THE WHITE WORLD 

a professional matter) of reiterating and vindicating my 
opinions. That any intention existed of wounding my 
feelings by this publication, I most perfectly disbelieve, 
but I cannot help thinking that at least a thoughtlessness 
and indifference has been shown by it towards me and my 
position, which is humiliating. 

" On all sides, surprise is expressed to me, both by 
officers and citizens, that such a publication should have 
been made, and there seems to be but one opinion (as far 
as I can learn) of the dilemma in which it places me, and 
the duty which it enjoins upon me. 

" I learn also, with great regret, that, previous to your 
experimental cruise, at the public table of a hotel of this 
city, on an occasion when you were taking a glass of wine 
with Chaplain Colton, that clergyman had the impertinence 
and little self-respect to remark of me to you, that I was 
'hyp'd in regard to my vessel, and that instead of rebuk- 
ing him, you replied to this effect, ' Yes, he is very much 
prejudiced.' " 

So Lieutenant Tattnall resigned. Everyone in the navy, 
and indeed most persons out of it, knew the details of 
this affair; and the difficulty of obtaining officers increased. 
Before the end of 1837, twenty-three officers of various 
ranks — among them David P. Porter, passed midship- 
man — had declined to go with the expedition. The gos- 
sip was increased when, instead of taking his vessels to 
the South, Captain Jones ordered them back upon the 
stocks, for alteration. At this period the delays of the 
enterprise were still matters of public disapproval; they 
had not reached the humorous stage. The people ex- 
pected the expedition to get under way at any time. 

Nevertheless, during the summer of 1837 but little was 
accomplished. The eighteen members of the scientific 
corps were put on salaries and the seamen were recruited. 
A board of commodores examined the vessels, and re- 
ported that with alterations they would do, but recom- 
mended that the complement should be reduced. At this, 
however, Captain Jones protested, and again had his own 
way. He discovered that the schooner was unfit for the 
work, and upon authorization from Mr. Dickerson, bought 
another for $8000, and spent as much more in fitting her up. 

380 



AMERICA'S FIRST POLAR EXPEDITION 

When the ships were reported ready for sea, a new 
cause of delay arose. The cooking galleys which had 
been purchased at Captain Jones's request turned out 
failures. He demanded new galleys that would burn an- 
thracite coal, and more than a month passed before these 
were finished. 

At last, on September 26, Mr. Dickerson ordered Cap- 
tain Jones to sail as soon as he was ready. On October 
12, he did sail — to New York, where supplies were to be 
taken aboard. The scientific corps reported to Captain 
Jones for consultation about instruments, furniture, etc., 
and the necessary stowage room for them. On November 
10, new sailing orders were given to Captain Jones, but 
the vessels still needed repairs. During this new period 
of inaction, discontent arose among the crews. For many 
of the men, the time of enlistment had expired; and they 
were not eager to rejoin. Captain Jones recommended 
that they should be transferred to the regular service, 
whereby each man who should reenlist would receive a 
bounty of fifty dollars. This plan filled out the comple- 
ment; but one night a hundred and fifty men, who were 
on shore leave, deserted, and that caused another delay. 

It was a time of discouragement for Captain Jones. 
Moreover, he was at odds with everyone. The delay and 
the wrangling had tried the tempers of all concerned. 
Everyone was ready to take offense, and Captain Jones, who 
was not only harassed but also actually ill with an affection 
of the lungs, was ready to give up the whole enterprise. 
He insinuated— at least a letter of his was interpreted as 
an insinuation — that Lieutenant Wilkes was keeping back 
from the expedition some of the instruments he had 
bought. He wrangled again with the Secretary of the 
Navy. Even the Rev. Walter Colton, for whose appoint- 
ment Jones himself had asked, proved false. He was ready 
to take the position of historiographer. Captain Jones 
protested. " It is true," he wrote, " that the varied scenes 
of wild nature which may fall under our observation would 
be the finest sources for the vivid imagination of a Scott, 
a Byron, an Irving or a Cooper, from which to draw 
sketches or tales of romance for the gay and light reader, 
but of little value to the philosopher or the naturalist. 

381 



THE WHITE WORLD 

The scientific corps would never submit to having their 
work sent to the world in the fancy dress of romance, 
or as light lore adapted only to the center-table or draw- 
ing-room lounge." But the protest was in vain. The ap- 
pointment of the Rev. Walter Colton as historiographer 
was confirmed. 

A routine order from Mr. Dickerson, to the effect that 
the commander of the expedition should summon two or 
more of his subordinates to " certify and before his face 
to seal up and then deliver into his hands all journals, 
reports, records, collections, etc., made by those under 
his command," exhausted the patience of Captain Jones. 

" Since by the paragraphs alluded to," he wrote, " the 
Secretary of the Navy not only questions my honor, but 
impugns my honesty, only two courses are left; to abandon 
all pretense of self-respect or to resign." 

He did resign, pleading ill health. Four other post-cap- 
tains refused the command. The existence of the expedi- 
tion was in peril. The country had upon its hands five 
ships, termed in the public press " old waddlers." They 
were imperfectly equipped, but the scientific corps, despite 
the consultation with Captain Jones, had provided for so 
many instruments that room for them aboard could not 
be found. It was the time when specie payments had 
been suspended, and money was hard to get. Claims of 
all kinds were coming to the Secretary of the Navy. Cer- 
tain members of the scientific corps were complaining 
because their salaries did not run back to the dates of 
their appointments. The Rev. Walter Colton, too, re- 
quested back pay, because his preparation for the expedi- 
tion had prevented the publication of his little work on 
the Lights and Shadows of Italy, for which he was to 
have received a thousand dollars. 

The wits made fun of the enterprise in the papers, and 
a hard-headed member of the House of Representatives 
offered a resolution that the expedition should be aban- 
doned, that a shed should be erected in the yard of the 
Secretary of the Navy, and that the members of the scien- 
tific corps should be quartered therein, and set to catch- 
ing flies. 

In this emergency, however, when the expedition seemed 

382 



AMERICA'S FIRST POLAR EXPEDITION 

lost, national pride was aroused, and the energy and self- 
abnegation of the naval officers, and the rapidity with 
which they pulled order out of this chaos, cannot suffi- 
ciently be admired. Lieutenant Wilkes was willing to 
undertake the command, and (so strong was the general 
feeling that for the national honor the expedition must 
not be allowed to fail) his superior officer, Lieutenant 
Hudson, consented to serve under him as commander of 
a vessel. The " old waddlers " were discarded, and a new 
fleet was formed of craft already in commission — the 
sloops-of-war " Vincennes " and " Porpoise," the brig 
" Peacock," and at the last moment, two pilot-boats pur- 
chased by the government in New York — the " Flying- 
Fish " and the " Sea-Gull." The scientific staff was cut 
down to six, and the extra instruments were put ashore. 
In the latter part of July, 1838, the President did credit 
to the expedition by visiting Wilkes on board the " Vin- 
cennes." On the 17th of August the ships sailed away. 

But the troubles of this unlucky enterprise were not 
yet over. Wilkes, who had been modest enough during 
the controversy over the command of the vessels, turned 
haughty at sea. Moreover, there was an unruly element 
in his crew. Friction between himself and his officers be- 
gan early in the voyage, and continued to the end; and 
when the expedition was over, the commander was brought 
to court-martial under as entertaining a series of charges 
as ever appeared in a government document. One of the 
charges set forth that the commander assumed a dignity 
to which he was not entitled. 

" He mounted the blue broad pennant on the ' Vin- 
cennes,' " says the charge, " after the manner of a captain 
commanding a squadron. He wore a coat with four but- 
tons on each cuff, four buttons down each pocket fold, 
four buttons under each pocket flap." He also assumed 
two epaulets, instead of one, and thus arrogated to him- 
self the insignia of captain. Another charge was oppres- 
sion of his officers. He had refused to promote Assist- 
ant-surgeon Charles F. B. Gillou to the rank and pay 
of surgeon. At Honolulu, Gillou reminded him " in re- 
spectful terms " that he had joined the expedition under 
the expectation of an increase of salary, whereupon, in 

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THE WHITE WORLD 

the words of the charge, " the said Lieutenant Charles 
Wilkes did tell the said Assistant-surgeon Gillou, in a 
loud and angry tone, ' I deny the fact, I deny the fact, sir, 
positively. I never said any such thing,' at the same time 
rising from his chair and advancing toward the said Assist- 
ant-surgeon Gillou, shaking at him his finger and hand 
in an insulting manner; — the said Lieutenant Charles 
Wilkes, having approached the said Assistant-surgeon 
Gillou, and continuing his violent gesticulation, the said 
Lieutenant Charles Wilkes exclaimed in a threatening 
tone, 'Leave the presence, sir! Leave the presence!' 
The assistant-surgeon left the presence, and Wilkes 
climbed to an upper piazza and shouted to his officer, 
ordering him to return to his ship, at the same time 
" threatening him with his finger in this public place in 
a foreign land." To this indignity Wilkes added the exas- 
peration of a refusal to forward to the Secretary of the 
Navy, Assistant-surgeon Gillou's report of the interview. 

Another charge was cruelty to the natives in the Pacific 
seas. On the Island of Malolo the inhabitants had killed 
a certain Lieutenant Underwood, and Wilkes had retali- 
ated by storming the principal town. The charge cites 
the fact that natives were put to death, and goes on to 
state that " after a large deputation from the reduced in- 
habitants of the aforesaid Island of Malolo had, crouching 
down before the said Lieutenant Charles Wilkes, crawled 
upon their elbows and knees toward his feet, and groaned 
forth their repentant submission, grappling up the earth 
and throwing it on their heads and shoulders, the afore- 
said Lieutenant Charles Wilkes did order them to bring 
or drive down their hogs to supply the brig " Porpoise," 
and to carry water to fill the tanks of said vessel, and to 
yield up to him arms and other property, thereby leaving 
them, with their wives and children, exposed to the mur- 
derous hate and anthropophagian appetites of their 
cannibal neighbors." 

Wilkes replied to the charge of cruelty by pointing out 
that if he were to be tried at all for shooting natives, he 
must be tried for murder; he could not be accused of a 
lesser crime. The court-martial reprimanded him, how- 
ever, for cruelty to his men; he had caused twenty-five of 

384 



AMERICA'S FIRST POLAR EXPEDITION 

them to be given twenty-four lashes apiece, during the 
three years. 

So the expedition ended as it had begun — in a public 
scandal. Its bright deeds have outlived most of the scan- 
dal. It restrained, somewhat, the anthrophagian tendency 
in the South Seas, at least in so far as that tendency was 
directed toward the American missionary, and in those 
days the risk of being eaten incurred by missionaries in 
that region was something more than a comic-paper joke. 
It accomplished valuable scientific works, the results of 
which were finally published by the Government, the 
draftsmen brought home the South Seas races, in a series 
of plates, which are to-day interesting, if somewhat quaint. 
The collections of the horticulturist and the botanist fur- 
nished materials for a work by Asa Grey. The philologist 
produced a book on Ethnography. The conchologist wrote 
on Zoophytes. The charts of the hydrographers are, even 
now, the standards for many harbors in the Pacific. But on 
their Antarctic charts, running around the Antarctic circle, 
between the ninetieth and the one hundred and sixty-fiflh 
degrees of east longitude, there is a wavy line called Wilkes 
Land. It is laid down upon the maps of all nations, but 
upon the official charts of one nation — England — it appears 
only by courtesy, and recent addresses upon Antarctic 
discovery, delivered by the most eminent English geo- 
graphers, include statements to the effect that Wilkes's 
reports of an Antarctic continent need to be verified. It is 
hardly necessary to present here the reasons for this incredu- 
lity. They are set forth in Wilkes's narrative of the ex- 
pedition in five volumes. The main contention of these 
geographers is that the commander of the English expedi- 
tion which followed Wilkes into the Antarctic regions, 
Captain James Clarke Ross, sailed over a point where 
Wilkes had indicated land upon his chart. At that point 
no land was visible; what proof is there, ask the geog- 
raphers, that the rest of the chart is reliable? There is, 
moreover, something beside the absence of that particular 
coast to serve as a pretext for doubt. One of the 
charges in the court-martial of Wilkes — a charge entitled 
" Scandalous Conduct Tending to the Destruction of Good 
Morals " — cited that " the said Lieutenant Charles Wilkes 

38s 



THE WHITE WORLD 

in his report No. 63 to the Secretary of the Navy, dated 
Alarch 11, 1840, did utter a deliberate and wilful falsehood 
in the following words, to-wit: 'On the morning of the 
nineteenth of January, we saw land to the southward and 
eastward,' * * * well knowing that land to the southward 
and eastward was not seen on that date as asserted by him." 
There was brought forth plenty of evidence to prove, 
at least to the satisfaction of Americans, that land was 
seen by the expedition, and yet, in view of the careless- 
ness of Wilkes in laying down upon a chart territory which, 
as he confesses, he had not actually perceived, and in 
view of conflicting statements concerning this land pre- 
sented by his own officers, and once more in view of the 
ludicrous spectacle that the whole expedition must have 
presented to the world, can it be denied that anyone who 
desired to find an excuse for treating the enterprise lightly 
would not have far to look? 



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